RedLine Engine Knock

[chrisbh17]

2 days not started, no tick on start up, let run for 5min and shut down. Came back out an hour later to leave and i got a quick tick really short on start up! Guess ill monitor it some more. I will definitely try that toyota oil, just not yet. Ill put some miles on this qsud.

FWIW that is a known recipe for a startup tick. In most cases its a very loud disheartening knocking sound for 2-3 seconds, then it goes away by itself. If you start it and drive a very short distance (or not at all), then shut it down, the next startup will exhibit the bad noise.

In my case, I could re-create it at will. What seems to have (so far...knock on wood) quieted it is using the SRT oil filter.

 

[Burla]

2 days not started, no tick on start up, let run for 5min and shut down. Came back out an hour later to leave and i got a quick tick really short on start up! Guess ill monitor it some more. I will definitely try that toyota oil, just not yet. Ill put some miles on this qsud.

drop a 6 dollar bottle of lubegard in there, pretty much turns that into toyota oem as far as moly goes. read the reviews, especially the first one, a cold start review. what do you have to loose versus what can you gain?

i cut and paste a little of it...

The biggest benefit I've seen is during cold starts...the engine doesn't rev as high, drops to std idle speed much sooner, the engine is far quieter, and there is no valve noise. Seeing that around 90% of engine wear occurs within 60 seconds of startup over the lifetime of an engine (i.e. before the oil has had a chance to be pumped around the engine), this product offers an enormous, tangible benefit.

 

[Cableman]

drop a 6 dollar bottle of lubegard in there, pretty much turns that into toyota oem as far as moly goes. read the reviews, especially the first one, a cold start review. what do you have to loose versus what can you gain?

i cut and paste a little of it...

The biggest benefit I've seen is during cold starts...the engine doesn't rev as high, drops to std idle speed much sooner, the engine is far quieter, and there is no valve noise. Seeing that around 90% of engine wear occurs within 60 seconds of startup over the lifetime of an engine (i.e. before the oil has had a chance to be pumped around the engine), this product offers an enormous, tangible benefit.

I just ordered it up, was kinda thinking about adding something like you guys have been talking about recently.
10oz bottle is enough? I know it says 3oz per qt or liter.

 

[ajs3]

Ok...I might be blind, I might not comprehend what I read, I might be completely wrong. If I am please correct me. According to lubegards website, lubegard biotech and biotech heavy duty oil additives are not made with molybdenum....at all...none...nada...zip...zero. Made with something called "liquid ester wax". Look it up and tell me I'm crazy...please.

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[crackerjack1957]

Ok...I might be blind, I might not comprehend what I read, I might be completely wrong. If I am please correct me. According to lubegards website, lubegard biotech and biotech heavy duty oil additives are not made with molybdenum....at all...none...nada...zip...zero. Made with something called "liquid ester wax". Look it up and tell me I'm crazy...please.

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Hmmmm.......that's the way I read also

LUBEGARD® ENGINE OIL PROTECTANT contains Liquid Wax Ester (LXE®) Technology, the lubrication system of the future.

LUBEGARD provides a concentrated package that fulfills these deficiencies (without adding ZDDP, Chlorine, inappropriate sludge building additives like PTFE or solid lubricants such as Teflon®, graphite or molybdenum disulphide.)

https://www.lubegard.com/products/biotech/

 

[Burla]

voa lubegard... It has been known to raise ppm moly about 150ppm when added to oil change, I believe that is 15 ounces. They are talking about solid lubricant m0s2, which this doesn't have.

Many thanks to Blackstone Labs for running this VOA at no charge.

Aluminum / 0
Chromium / 0
Iron / 0
Copper / 0
Lead / 0
Tin / 0
Molybdenum / 1891
Nickel / 0
Manganese / 0
Silver / 0
Titanium / 0
Potassium / 0
Boron / 134
Silicon / 17
Sodium / 70
Calcium / 3183
Magnesium / 10
Phosphorus / 3472
Zinc / 9
Barium / 0

SUS Viscosity @ 210F / 47.9
cSt Viscosity @ 100C / 6.64
Flashpoint in F / 430
Fuel% / -
Antifreeze% / -
Water% / 0.0
Insolubles% / TR
TBN / 3.7

 

[Burla]

I just ordered it up, was kinda thinking about adding something like you guys have been talking about recently.
10oz bottle is enough? I know it says 3oz per qt or liter.

The 10 ounce size is 6 bucks amazon, the 15 ounce is 13 bucks, so how many bottles you will try, just get 10 ounce size? I'd start with one, maybe add two. I don't think I'd go much further then that.

 

[Cableman]

The 10 ounce size is 6 bucks amazon, the 15 ounce is 13 bucks, so how many bottles you will try, just get 10 ounce size? I'd start with one, maybe add two. I don't think I'd go much further then that.

I ordered the one 10oz. Once you change oil this comes out also correct? Not like its in there forever?

 

[Burla]

No more than anything in your engine oil. Does your engine oil leave some zinc and moly behind in between changes? I'd say some. That's why I posted voa, it just regular engine oil additives, just in larger portions.

 

[Cableman]

Ill definitely play around with options, 1st being the 0w20 qsud and lubegaurd.
Ill see if i can recreate the cold start tick by starting/stopping and starting again. Before and after lubegaurd.
So far with just the 0w20 i havnt had a knock or tick after sitting 24 to 48 hrs from 1st start, only after it was started/stopped and started again. But its still too early to say.

 

[ajs3]

voa lubegard... It has been known to raise ppm moly about 150ppm when added to oil change, I believe that is 15 ounces. They are talking about solid lubricant m0s2, which this doesn't have.

Many thanks to Blackstone Labs for running this VOA at no charge.

Aluminum / 0
Chromium / 0
Iron / 0
Copper / 0
Lead / 0
Tin / 0
Molybdenum / 1891
Nickel / 0
Manganese / 0
Silver / 0
Titanium / 0
Potassium / 0
Boron / 134
Silicon / 17
Sodium / 70
Calcium / 3183
Magnesium / 10
Phosphorus / 3472
Zinc / 9
Barium / 0

SUS Viscosity @ 210F / 47.9
cSt Viscosity @ 100C / 6.64
Flashpoint in F / 430
Fuel% / -
Antifreeze% / -
Water% / 0.0
Insolubles% / TR
TBN / 3.7

Ok.... molybdenum is NOT molybdenum disulfide?? Is that correct? Legit question, I'm not being obnoxious and just the short answer. I'm a dinosaur, maintained, tore apart all my vehicles. The only oil additives I've ever used regularly is marvel mystery oil...never an issue. A good quality oil and filter at 3 to 5000 miles and no problems. What I'm getting at here is when you spend 45 to 70,000 dollars on a vehicle we shouldn't be talking about how to keep the engine from self destructing with oil additives!! Example...my grandfather's 1950 mercury coup wit a 256 flathead in it is still running with 275000 miles on the original motor with really nothing more then regular oil changes and basic maintenance.
My 2014 1500 ,thank god , isn't experiencing any of these issues...yet I guess. I only have 49,500 on it bone stock, oil changes every 4500 miles. First half of its life was Castrol 5-20 ,M1 filter ,second half Rotella gas truck 5-20 w/ RP filters. No additives until liqui moly moS2. All been quiet.
Sorry for rant.

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[Tim Garceau]

80-120k miles is where the bell curve peaks in failures from the plethora of online reports.

The earlier seizures all have one commonality, frequent warm idle.

 

[ajs3]

80-120k miles is where the bell curve peaks in failures from the plethora of online reports.

The earlier seizures all have one commonality, frequent warm idle.

Talk about getting your money's worth...lol. Well I don't idle the the truck for longer then 5 minutes after start up . Even in winter. Doesn't get that cold on long island anyway.
So maybe it'll be in one piece for at least a couple years after its paid off....lol.


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[Burla]

Ok.... molybdenum is NOT molybdenum disulfide?? Is that correct? Legit question, I'm not being obnoxious and just the short answer. I'm a dinosaur, maintained, tore apart all my vehicles. The only oil additives I've ever used regularly is marvel mystery oil...never an issue. A good quality oil and filter at 3 to 5000 miles and no problems. What I'm getting at here is when you spend 45 to 70,000 dollars on a vehicle we shouldn't be talking about how to keep the engine from self destructing with oil additives!! Example...my grandfather's 1950 mercury coup wit a 256 flathead in it is still running with 275000 miles on the original motor with really nothing more then regular oil changes and basic maintenance.
My 2014 1500 ,thank god , isn't experiencing any of these issues...yet I guess. I only have 49,500 on it bone stock, oil changes every 4500 miles. First half of its life was Castrol 5-20 ,M1 filter ,second half Rotella gas truck 5-20 w/ RP filters. No additives until liqui moly moS2. All been quiet.
Sorry for rant.

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Go back and read it, spells it out. m0s2 is a solid lubricant, it doesn't say there is no moly, it says there is no solid moly and even says solid. There are many types of moly, the ones in pcmo's are oil soluble moly, IE not solid. Just like zinc, most people think of zinc as solid, but you don't see solid in oil right?

I'm not saying don't use m0s2, I'm saying using solids in oils are more risky then not, thus is why every single oil manufacturer doesn't use them. hope that cleared it up

 

[ajs3]

[emoji106][emoji106]

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[ajs3]

Go back and read it, spells it out. m0s2 is a solid lubricant, it doesn't say there is no moly, it says there is no solid moly and even says solid. There are many types of moly, the ones in pcmo's are oil soluble moly, IE not solid. Just like zinc, most people think of zinc as solid, but you don't see solid in oil right?

I'm not saying don't use m0s2, I'm saying using solids in oils are more risky then not, thus is why every single oil manufacturer doesn't use them. hope that cleared it up

[emoji106][emoji106]

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[crackerjack1957]

When you see a VOA or UOA of a motor oil that has say 700+ ppm of moly in it, than you can be sure that that particular brand is not using "tri-nuclear" moly in their motor oil. I believe Idemitsu is one brand that is still using the older more traditional type of moly in their engine oils.

http://synlubepros.com/blog/posts/tips/moly-in-engine-oil

 

[Burla]

 

[Tim Garceau]

http://synlubepros.com/blog/posts/tips/moly-in-engine-oil

“I know that our older SS 0W-20 formulation for instance had somewhere between 140-150 ppm of moly in it - I believe that it's even higher in the new formulation.”

So... you’re not a chemist or analyst, thanks for your opinion. I still won’t pay $12 a quart

 

[Burla]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

A couple of moly's they list here and show chemical makeup as oil soluble moly, link below.

https://www.imoa.info/molybdenum-uses/molybdenum-chemistry-uses/lubricants.php

Go to white paper section at bob's, they have some moly posted over there.