RedLine Engine Knock

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Sherman Bird

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Wow! Lots of brand references here ... and so much subjective chatter. The brand of oil matters so little... the API rating as to the requirements of the manufacturer is VERY important.... BTW: Walmart brand generic motor oil finished very high in an independent test a number of years ago. Viscosity integrity through temp and load tests was fantastic, etc. Wally world refuses to say whose top-tier oil is in their generic container, and I used it years ago and put 120,000 on an old Suburban using it.... never had a glitch.

The required weight of the oil (5-W20, etc) is critical as well. Down here in the sub tropics, we run 5-W30 in lieu of 5-W20 in the summer with no negative results. Most manufacturers show 5-W30 as hot weather alternative in their owner's manuals.

Brand of oil filters is another issue, too. I saw a demonstration at a tech show years ago where they disemboweled a half dozen leading named filters... What an eye-opener! Some of the top names make absolute CRAP! I'm a huge believer in factory filters. Nippendenso for my Toyota, Delco for my Chevy, MOPAR for my Dodge... and so forth. I've never had any problem doing that.... and some of the so-called super filters are a waste of money.
 

Cableman

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So which 0w30 would be the go to with decent moly for us colder weather guys?
 

Burla

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Wow! Lots of brand references here ... and so much subjective chatter. The brand of oil matters so little... the API rating as to the requirements of the manufacturer is VERY important.... BTW: Walmart brand generic motor oil finished very high in an independent test a number of years ago. Viscosity integrity through temp and load tests was fantastic, etc. Wally world refuses to say whose top-tier oil is in their generic container, and I used it years ago and put 120,000 on an old Suburban using it.... never had a glitch.

The required weight of the oil (5-W20, etc) is critical as well. Down here in the sub tropics, we run 5-W30 in lieu of 5-W20 in the summer with no negative results. Most manufacturers show 5-W30 as hot weather alternative in their owner's manuals.

Brand of oil filters is another issue, too. I saw a demonstration at a tech show years ago where they disemboweled a half dozen leading named filters... What an eye-opener! Some of the top names make absolute CRAP! I'm a huge believer in factory filters. Nippendenso for my Toyota, Delco for my Chevy, MOPAR for my Dodge... and so forth. I've never had any problem doing that.... and some of the so-called super filters are a waste of money.


This makes sense if you ignore the work of many many guys on this forum with many different brands of oil all posted over time dealing with the issues of our hemi's. In most applications, you are right, in most applications the dynamics are very forgiving that allows for the age old argument will a "special" oil formulation benefit me? API formulations are to guard against minimum quality and all they do is take stuff OUT of oil to satisfy low saps and di turbo's, and add low cSt's as well. How would that benefit an engine that has no such needs? FCA engineers built a hemi specific oil 0w40 PUP/SRT oil exactly different from the way API is driving everyone. High additive high viscosity oil, in a weight of oil that allows for more additives as 40 weights are less regulated. We have proved here at Ram forum over the last 8/9 years with nearly 100 guys that oil formulations matter more then in other applications, tht hemi's respond to different oil formulations like no other engine and it actually follows the science of lubrication. Hemi's knock on one oil and are butter smooth on another, this happens every week here. I invite you to follow the issue and listen to the many random forum members who have the same experience. All backed with uoa's.
 

scott lass 18

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@Burla do you feel Mobil 1 0w20 is a good oil? I can get this oil at a good price at my Costco and was thinking of trying it this weekend. I will drain out the redline 5w30....just would hate to go back to Mobil 1 after seeing the benefits of redline. I just need to fix this start up issue. Is Mobil 1 a decent oil compared to Redline?

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well for years been using Amsoil 5w-30 in california cold mouths but thats 40 to 60 s no problem maybe 2 times hear noise 30 s but seems no problems mix 1/2 with 10-40 summer but I sit in slow traffic a lot this is why too ! allso have mds turn off and run 0n 91 oct 58,000 on it ! scary thing I was told guy had 115,000 vleves blown up was mds 5.000 repair hope doesn't happen to other s sucks right ! anyone see at idle 29 oil pressure now 34 on oil seems better to me !
 

jmrec100

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For what its worth, I run Rotella Synthetic in my Jeep inline 6, 4.0L gas engine. Jeep has 338,000 miles, still running strong. Motor mounts are ragged but the motor is fine. Its a diesel oil but has more wear reducing agents in it. Been great. Just a suggestion. I was told by the Jeep forum I also am in. So what its worth. And Walmart best place to buy it. Its a Shell product.
I'm here on this forum because I'm looking to buy a Ram . Either a 2500 or 3500. Just looking for the pros/cons . I want to tow a RV trailer, 27 ft max
 

pacofortacos

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The good stuff in the Rotella is being phased out too, if what I read is true.
 

dgibson

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Here is the deal. Roller Cams have little needle bearings. If you use a ester based full synthetic (yes there is a diference) the needle bearings skate and will eventually cause lifter failure. The best option is the Pennzoil Ultra that is full synthetic but not ester based so it allows the needle bearings to have just enough friction to spin. Pennzoil Ultra 0W-40 is the factory fill fo the Demon. The base oil comes from Shells Helix foundation in Australia. (Not West Virginia's varnishing swill) It's called bearing skating and it affects even Harley Davidsons.
 

JS4024

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You NEED to run 5w-20 ONLY! The clearances on the internals are tight. The oil isn’t moving like it should. Don’t believe the bull$hit some post on here about running thicker oil. Drove me nuts for years putting 5w-20 in a hemi until I spoke to a mopar engine designer at a car show......
 

chrisbh17

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You NEED to run 5w-20 ONLY! The clearances on the internals are tight. The oil isn’t moving like it should. Don’t believe the bull$hit some post on here about running thicker oil. Drove me nuts for years putting 5w-20 in a hemi until I spoke to a mopar engine designer at a car show......

Did they change the clearances between 2016 and 2017? Because the 2016 manual said 5-30 is OK if you cant get 5-20. 2017 says 5-20 only, but I dont think they changed the engine in between those years......
 

chrisbh17

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BTW if you Google it you will land on a post from Harley Davidson forum, which links to this document (a good read):

https://web.archive.org/web/2013041.../upload/dynamic/Diesel Engine Cam Galling.pdf

They tested the idea of "traction coefficient" preventing (or causing) galling on internals when there is a no load rolling condition. Oils with high traction coefficient fared much better, oils with lower traction coefficient showed galling much faster and they did negative tests to prove it still happened.

Over on BITOG they seemed to take it one (or a few) steps further, and eventually started talking about HTHS. HTHS being a measure of film strength, a higher film strength and higher traction coefficient kinda go hand-in-hand....the oil "sticks" to the metal, so when there is no contact or contact with no pressure, the film is still there and protecting (from things like galling)

So technically a synthetic being "more slippery" doesnt mean death to all engines. If you get a synthetic with a high traction coefficient (assuming high HTHS = high traction coefficient, you can use the HTHS test to find one), you are basically making "more slippery" a non-issue.
 

jmrec100

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The good stuff in the Rotella is being phased out too, if what I read is true.

Really ? Where is that referenced. I hope not. Kept my Jeep going. Another good product getting wrecked if true
 

Burla

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Really ? Where is that referenced. I hope not. Kept my Jeep going. Another good product getting wrecked if true

Sad but true, new diesel oil specs had some auto manu's not wanting to use those oils, Ford of note for power stroke. Ford was not impressed with the new api grades when they came out, I haven't kept on if they still resist the formulas or not. Oddly and specifically Rotella took moly out as well.

Rotella 2014

See the results of 4 HD oils, now "lesser" named oils look better on paper. But one thing for sure, rotella still have the name. Note moly levels.


Fords statement pdf.
 

SyN

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I went ahead & deleted my Thoughts & Opinions due to certain family members have told me I need to think of other younger members whom have sensitive feelings & these thoughts & opinions even though backed up with actual results might offend others.

Truth is I don't give 4 $hits - but I'm trying to be a better person as I grow older & wiser!

Actually I don't have a dog in this fight no longer so I should have not posted but I see a lot of information being posted that is really hard to swallow due to I don't feel it's backed up with actual facts or documented data.

Anyway those who know me - know how I feel & what I believe & know.
Please if you post valuable information to help others - please post with that information - actual White Paper Data to back it up.

Just don't make yourself look Special by showing up with the same old Enternet "He said She said BS"

Good Day & God Bless!
 
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cwendel

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New oils are losing some of the old additives because of emissions issue. The new diesels are based on ash from burning and the ability to control clearances better. The new use of 10w30 is a result of the new use of hydrolic lifters. No need to do valve adjustments. But that also means the oil needs to be thinner when hot and be clean.
Most important item for hydrolic lifters is clean oil as they can clog fast.
The good stuff can still be had. Just make sure to buy royal purple as the moly is part of their main design.

2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
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SyN

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Sad but true, new diesel oil specs had some auto manu's not wanting to use those oils, Ford of note for power stroke. Ford was not impressed with the new api grades when they came out, I haven't kept on if they still resist the formulas or not. Oddly and specifically Rotella took moly out as well.

Rotella 2014

See the results of 4 HD oils, now "lesser" named oils look better on paper. But one thing for sure, rotella still have the name. Note moly levels.


Fords statement pdf.

Thus the main reason I chose to run Triax Lubricants - This company has not fallen to be a ***** of the API.
I'm no follower - For my new 6.7L - I want the highest quality formulation I could find for under $30 a gallon.

https://www.triaxlubricants.com/
 
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Burla

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Thus the main reason I chose to run Triax Lubricants - This company has not fallen to be a ***** of the API.

We miss Syn around these parts, so Triax for the win? I haven't looked into it, I wonder if Ford sells their spec oil at dealerships, since the otc shelf is full of ck-4 oils? Any uoas?
 

Tim Garceau

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Redline probably needs a bit of this to help make it a decent Hemi oil.

upload_2019-11-20_21-0-10.jpeg
 

SyN

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Tim: I only hope you were attempting to make a Joke?

RL oils carry some of the most Robust/Stoutest formulations you will find!
Not one of the RL Viscosity oils Need a cheap over the counter oil additive added.
Their base oils are second to none as well.

The 5.7L has a engine design flaw (weak upper valve train) & I honestly believe FCA knows this - RL oils are only a band aid - but a very strong band aid.
I also feel select high quality oil filters can help in this issue as well - aid in start up & normal oil flow up to this critical area.

My honest opinion thinks there is a oil flow issue up too the upper valve train area - also the lifter design is a sad excuse for reliability - especially just after warranty is expired.
This is why I as well as many others believe the Moly plating is very vital.

It seems to help most cases - some well it just wasn't meant to be.
I started with PUP SRT 0W-40 @ the 8K mile mark in my 2014 - most know the 0W-40 was loaded with over 200 ppm of Infinium Moly.
I attempted to avoid any amount of idling mainly @ operating temp - since this is when the oil psi was at its lowest!
Traded her in @ the 18K mile mark - now I have some FUN Government Emissions to be concerned & worried with.

Once again: I'm rambling - I apologize & I'm done!
Everybody have a awesome day & Happy Holidays

For Burla & Crew: Years ago I told you fellas bout my neighbor 2 houses down with his 13-14 Ram 5.7L & how it sounded like a Steriod Infested Sewing Machine @ idle from 2 houses down - it is really sad how it has slowly progressed into a unreal unnatural sound now.
I am honestly very curious to see just how long she will continue before the lifters eat the cam.
 
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shackman

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I got 63,000 on my 2014 and after the first 2 oil changes that they give you when you buy i bought there oil change deal 8 oil and filter changes with there full synthetic oil . I was concerned about what oil they use and they told me it's the same oil and filter that they use on the Hellcat. That was 4 oil changes ago I have never heard a noise from the motor as of yet (knock on wood) cold or otherwise. I think they said it was Pennzoil is what they use.
 
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