Remote oil filter how-to

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charonblk07

charonblk07

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Nice, have to give this a try. What do you mount it with? Steel screws?
The kit comes with metal screws but I drilled and tapped the frame since it's thick enough to get 3 full threads which is enough to hold everything.
 

GIJoe2010

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^^^^^I’m gonna do the same. I have some 5” 5/16 nuts and bolts to go through the frame. I’m gonna have to carefully drill or Dremel out the remote filter mount holes to match the 5/16 bolts.

I also picked up at Home Depot a 12x18” piece of sheet metal (only $6) to fab up a shell that will protect the filter and mount. It’s not super thick gauge, but feels rigid enough to protect from small debris. It should also bend easily using the hard edge of my work bench and in my vice, and I’ll be cutting it up with a simple cutoff wheel on my Dremel.

I’ll make sure to document everything. I’ll knock out the relocation kit tomorrow and work on the shell thereafter.
 

Wild one

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^^^^^I’m gonna do the same. I have some 5” 5/16 nuts and bolts to go through the frame. I’m gonna have to carefully drill or Dremel out the remote filter mount holes to match the 5/16 bolts.

I also picked up at Home Depot a 12x18” piece of sheet metal (only $6) to fab up a shell that will protect the filter and mount. It’s not super thick gauge, but feels rigid enough to protect from small debris. It should also bend easily using the hard edge of my work bench and in my vice, and I’ll be cutting it up with a simple cutoff wheel on my Dremel.

I’ll make sure to document everything. I’ll knock out the relocation kit tomorrow and work on the shell thereafter.

I wouldn't drill through the frame.The frames are pretty light and you run the risk of collapsing it,unless you also put in a weld in tube spacer. I did the same as Kurtis drilled and tapped the frame for 5/16" bolts,and it's pretty stable,if you manage to rip it off the frame,you've got bigger issues to worry about,lol. One thing wise is to upgrade the fittings and hoses to -10 (5/8") from the -8 (1/2") hoses and fittings supplied in the kit. By the looks of it you're running the stubby filter,you can go to the 30-8A RP filter for a little more capacity. Mine takes roughly about a 1/2 quart more oil to bring it up to the full mark
 

daveray9

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I wouldn't drill through the frame.The frames are pretty light and you run the risk of collapsing it,unless you also put in a weld in tube spacer. I did the same as Kurtis drilled and tapped the frame for 5/16" bolts,and it's pretty stable,if you manage to rip it off the frame,you've got bigger issues to worry about,lol. One thing wise is to upgrade the fittings and hoses to -10 (5/8") from the -8 (1/2") hoses and fittings supplied in the kit. By the looks of it you're running the stubby filter,you can go to the 30-8A RP filter for a little more capacity. Mine takes roughly about a 1/2 quart more oil to bring it up to the full mark


Your saying you wouldn't drill through the frame, but you did?
 

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Your saying you wouldn't drill through the frame, but you did?

Some guys need a picture drawn for them,i guess you're one. He's drilling completely through the frame and then bolting the oil filter mount on with threw bolts which will pull the outer frame wall in towards the inner frame wall which has the capacity to collasp the 2 walls towards themselves,while Kurtis and I just drilled and tapped the inner frame wall and bolted the filter mount to just the inner frame wall.Neither of us drilled completely threw the frame,so there's no chance of collapsing the frame.There is that better for you,if need be i'll draw you a picture,lol
 

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I’m tracking, I’ll change it up and get a tap/die set.

Make yourself a paper template GIJoe off the backside of the filter mount,makes marking and drilling the holes a little easier.
 

GIJoe2010

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I’ve got some large post it notes, it’ll be easy to template and stick it when prepping.
 

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I didn’t catch it, but what size tap did you use?

Metric or SAE?
 

Wild one

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I didn’t catch it, but what size tap did you use?

Metric or SAE?

5/16" NC tap,drill the hole, one size smaller then called for on the tap.It'll give you a deeper thread pitch so the bolt has more clamping force
 

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So drill out at 1/4” then tap at 5/16”?

Is it corse or fine thread?

The reason I asked which type is that everything on the truck is metric, I wouldn’t mind keeping it that way. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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The 5/16-18 is the coarse version, if you want to go metric use a M8 x 1.25 tap with a 17/64" drill.
 

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So drill out at 1/4” then tap at 5/16”?

Is it corse or fine thread?

The reason I asked which type is that everything on the truck is metric, I wouldn’t mind keeping it that way. Thanks for the heads up.

Smaller Metric bolts are usually a fine thread. I'll have to go dig out my tap and die set to check the hole size for a M8 bolt. I usually drill the hole a 64th smaller then called for on the tap,unless it's going into a piece of heavy steel,and by no stretch are the frames on our trucks heavy steel,lol. The tap will have a hole size on it,just pick up a drill bit a 64th smaller then what the tap says.As stated above if the reconmemded bit is 17/64,i'd drill it 1/4". It's been awhile since I relocated my filter,lol.
 

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I picked up some 5/16”-18 bolts and will be running them instead of metric.

Should I drill the holes 1/4” or 9/32” or 17/64” or 5/16” and then tap with 5/16”?
 

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I picked up some 5/16”-18 bolts and will be running them instead of metric.

Should I drill the holes 1/4” or 9/32” or 17/64” or 5/16” and then tap with 5/16”?

What's the tap say for a bit size,go one size smaller then what the tap says. Later today,if you're still looking,i'll dig out my tap and die set and check sizes for you,but at the moment i'm not close to it.
 

yortnodnarb

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I picked up some 5/16”-18 bolts and will be running them instead of metric.

Should I drill the holes 1/4” or 9/32” or 17/64” or 5/16” and then tap with 5/16”?

The tap drill size for a 5/16-18 tap is a "F" drill which is .257", so a 1/4" drill will do the job. No need to drill hole any smaller than 1/4", you won't gain any strength by doing so.
 
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GIJoe2010

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I checked the DeWalt set and on the packaging it says 5/16” and on the bit it is marked as “F.” I’ll compare it to a 1/4” and any other similar sizes I have and run slightly smaller or use the supplied bit if I don’t have anything else.
 
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GIJoe2010

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So, if you do endeavor to do this, make sure you have Teflon tape on any and all threads, I have a leak or 2 and will be tackling this nonsense later on today FML :banghead: I will unfortunately have to drain my oil and try again. :emotions122:
 

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So, if you do endeavor to do this, make sure you have Teflon tape on any and all threads, I have a leak or 2 and will be tackling this nonsense later on today FML :banghead: I will unfortunately have to drain my oil and try again. :emotions122:

Don't use Teflon tape,hunt up Teflon paste instead.The last thing you want is a piece of the tape going into the oil system.
 

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I got some high temp paste (type 2) from O’Reilly that’s oil/fuel resistant and specifically for fittings to be used in place of tape. I will be using that.
 
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