Results from Zone 4" install and follow-up questions

[shogan]

18" rims (at least the ones I have) interfere with the tie rod ends. Solved with an emergency over-night delivery of hub-centric wheel spacers from Amazon.

I've got ICON UCAs on, and curious if how its sitting on top of the new zone extended knuckle is OK.

w/ the 4" "spacer" on top of stock OEM shocks (see previous post on why I didn't use my ICON 2.5 coilovers) - at this height, the axle CV shafts are angled down, and back. To get the shafts flat horizontally, I need to go +2" on the driver's side, and +1.5" on passenger side. Is a 0° (horizontal) static angle ideal? And guess there's nothing to be done about the fore/aft angle, as it's set by the differential location, and hub location in the knuckle?

I do want to replace the stock shocks, and go a bit higher to improve the CV shaft angle. (Also want to level things side-to-side). Does it make any difference if I keep the Zone 4" strut spacer and use a 0-2" adjustable shock (or coilover), or use a 4-6" coilover?

Considering Bilstein 6112 w/ Zone 4" spacer, Fox 2.0 (0-2") coilover w/ spacer, Fox 2.5 (4-6") wo/ spacer. May still consider ICON coilovers, but not super happy with prior experience (though I loved the ride)

For the rear I've got ICON dual rate (+1.5") coils, Zone +2" spacers, and the Fox 2.0 Adventure shocks that came w/ the Zone kit. IF I go another +1.5(ish) on the front, what should I do in the rear? I'd like to wind up level to slightly tail high. Zone +5" coils? One of the Jeep Gladiator spring options? (Thinking Clayton 3.5s?)

 

[Quick_Shifter]

18" rims (at least the ones I have) interfere with the tie rod ends. Solved with an emergency over-night delivery of hub-centric wheel spacers from Amazon.

I've got ICON UCAs on, and curious if how its sitting on top of the new zone extended knuckle is OK.

w/ the 4" "spacer" on top of stock OEM shocks (see previous post on why I didn't use my ICON 2.5 coilovers) - at this height, the axle CV shafts are angled down, and back. To get the shafts flat horizontally, I need to go +2" on the driver's side, and +1.5" on passenger side. Is a 0° (horizontal) static angle ideal? And guess there's nothing to be done about the fore/aft angle, as it's set by the differential location, and hub location in the knuckle?

I do want to replace the stock shocks, and go a bit higher to improve the CV shaft angle. (Also want to level things side-to-side). Does it make any difference if I keep the Zone 4" strut spacer and use a 0-2" adjustable shock (or coilover), or use a 4-6" coilover?

Considering Bilstein 6112 w/ Zone 4" spacer, Fox 2.0 (0-2") coilover w/ spacer, Fox 2.5 (4-6") wo/ spacer. May still consider ICON coilovers, but not super happy with prior experience (though I loved the ride)

For the rear I've got ICON dual rate (+1.5") coils, Zone +2" spacers, and the Fox 2.0 Adventure shocks that came w/ the Zone kit. IF I go another +1.5(ish) on the front, what should I do in the rear? I'd like to wind up level to slightly tail high. Zone +5" coils? One of the Jeep Gladiator spring options? (Thinking Clayton 3.5s?)

The upper ball joints are going to let loose any minute.
The wonky cv angles are normal for the 4” kits. Moving to a Bilstein set at .7 fixes it. Side to side height is normally due to the alignment.
You can order 3” rear springs from @Nick@GotExhaust

 

[shogan]

The upper ball joints are going to let loose any minute.
The wonky cv angles are normal for the 4” kits. Moving to a Bilstein set at .7 fixes it. Side to side height is normally due to the alignment.
You can order 3” rear springs from @Nick@GotExhaust

Thanks for the reply!

Is there something installed wrong, or are the ICON UCA not suitable for use w/ a Zone kit?

 

[shogan]

@Quick_Shifter
Here's a couple more pics.
I think the ICONs are angle compensating, so maybe they are wrong geometry for a full lift w/ taller knuckles?

It almost seems like the top of the knuckle is too high, relative to where the UCA body side mounts are. Not sure how that could be though.

 

[olyelr]

Do you have knuckles for a 6” kit, but only lifted 4”?

 

[shogan]

Do you have knuckles for a 6” kit, but only lifted 4”?

I bought a 4" kit, and I think both the Zone 4" and 6" kits use the same knuckles. PNs stamped on mine are 01230 and 01231, which matches the pic on Zone's website for their 4" kit.

 

[mrack]

You need stock geometry arms for that kit. Icon parts suck and usually fail prematurely anyways

 

[shogan]

You need stock geometry arms for that kit. Icon parts suck and usually fail prematurely anyways

You need stock geometry arms for that kit. Icon parts suck and usually fail prematurely anyways

Well shoot. What's the preferred OEM geom arms - Mavotech TTX? Any beefy upgrade options?

 

[RamDiver]

I bought a 4" kit, and I think both the Zone 4" and 6" kits use the same knuckles. PNs stamped on mine are 01230 and 01231, which matches the pic on Zone's website for their 4" kit.

I wouldn't take that to the bank.

Often when they post pictures online, one fletzer or doodad looks the same as the other, so they might toss in any simular available part that's convenient.

.

 

[mrack]

Well shoot. What's the preferred OEM geom arms - Mavotech TTX? Any beefy upgrade options?

Mevotech ttx, or JBA has a stock geometry option. Fully greasable with a bolt in ball joint, but you can buy a lot of mevotech arms for the price of one set of JBA

 

[DILLIGAF]

Core 4X4 UCAs

 

[zrock]

**** i would not even drive that with the upper like that..

 

[Daw14]

That looks like a crash waiting to happen .
I would not drive until repairs have been completed.

 

[shogan]

The upper ball joints are going to let loose any minute.
The wonky cv angles are normal for the 4” kits. Moving to a Bilstein set at .7 fixes it. Side to side height is normally due to the alignment.
You can order 3” rear springs from @Nick@GotExhaust

@Quick_Shifter - can you explain the alignment comment? My recent alignment specs here. Does the differences left/right cause that much difference to achieved lift?

AND, should I chase equal lift height by having unequal settings on my shocks, or should I just try to get balanced alignment?

 

[Quick_Shifter]

@Quick_Shifter - can you explain the alignment comment? My recent alignment specs here. Does the differences left/right cause that much difference to achieved lift?

AND, should I chase equal lift height by having unequal settings on my shocks, or should I just try to get balanced alignment?

I can’t go off of firestones alignment spec frankly because I can’t trust them at all. I can say that an alignment tech can make those numbers say anything unfortunately. I would recommend getting an alignment from a reputable place that body shops use a lot.
What I meant by the alignment is our trucks have cam bolts that can alter the height slightly if one is down and the other is up there is a possibility that a variation in height left to right can be measured

 

[Justin33]

Def listen to @Quick_Shifter he helped me here along with @Nick@GotExhaust when I got my four inch super lift. He knows what he is talking about and I wish he lived in my state.