RL 5w-30 switch

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clint440

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Oops :)

Anyhow Clint, like I said the great thing about those uoa's that were added was to show you the direction of the wear numbers, they are substantially better as time goes on. Nothing wrong with your choice, especially now, but if wear doesn't drop like the last three guys, why run the oil at that point? Too early to judge, but you can judge those three redline uoa's? purdy good?

RLK's sample was damn good and it was at an interval beyond the factory which has my interest. Any oil will look decent at half interval.

Question, that was a 10/30 so if further testing says I need to switch do I go to 10/30? Is that redline's formulation combined with the 10/30 making the difference or more the 10/30 weight and range? The little bit of redline 5/30 samples I have seen looks competitive but doesn't compel me to make a change. Heck who knows, maybe I could switch to heavier Ams and have similar results? I'm tracking that redline will take the tick away (I've seen your video's), I just don't have a tick and figured if I put good oil from the beginning, I won't have a problem.

I don't mean to be a Amsoil worshipper but I do like it for its long interval, access, and good discounts. I've also tested several different oils in different platforms and Amsoil usually won out. Before this forum, I never heard of Redline and glad to know there is a great option to consider or fix ram woes.
 

Burla

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I didn't take you to be that at all, I don't know you right? or your uoa? And I asked you to post it w/o knowing what it was. So, what I was hoping for was a uoa that was killer. Of course it wasn't, as of yet. Maybe just like the three uoa's above it will get better over time, thus giving you comfort in your strategy. RLK's uoa is so good because he doesn't have hemi tick, my assumption if he was using 5w30 it would even get better. The hths which is the gold standard for testing a base oil is two points higher, and the additives are a hair less, which is also good, additives have a double edge sword, they create wear and stop wear. It would be nice to see some long term uoa's with different oils, I hope you stay the course, I have a feeling it will get better. However, it is not good to have a lot of iron and copper rolling around your engine, might want to consider that lower oci a bit despite tbn.

If you want to discuss more syn thread, that is all we do.
 

Burla

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Heck who knows, maybe I could switch to heavier Ams and have similar results?

The new formula 5w30 SS Amsoil is a low viscosity oil, I almost believe it would be thinner due to shear then that 5w20 you have in there, that is why I sounded surprised. Don't shoot the messenger, just stating a fact with no opinion on quality, there was a reason they choose that that is above my pay grade. The 5w30 SS is operating viscosity 10.3 look it up, so your twenty weight is already thicker then their thirty weight. And 5w30 in that product will likely shear as well, so somehow some way the 5w20 is thicker then 5w30, unless there was some other reason your 5w20 was so thick we aren't thinking about.

A guy asked me what to run is an expensive brand new DI Raptor, I told him Amsoil, because I truly believe that, so I don't have any hang ups. But, some of the info is puzzling, why is your 5w20 thicker then 5w30, was it in too long, did you make a mistake and that is really 5w30? You should be asking these questions, I'm just reading a stat sheet. This is what happens to oil in an engine with vii's, first it gets thinner, then it gets thicker, but I kind of doubt the oil was in long enough for that process, so I'm perplexed. 5w20 in general is the most stable oil you can buy bar none, so I have no answers for what I see. Maybe your next uoa will illuminate us more, and look better, so my hope is you consider investing in another one at around 7500 miles. Don't get married to a long interval if your oil is showing heavy wear. Peace, Burla
 

Burla

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20 weight oils are supposed to stop at cSt 9.29, after that they become 30 weight. Clint your cSt in your used oil was 10.8, thicker then Amsoil SS 5w30 which is 10.3. Just pointing out facts, it's not bad that your oil was 10.8, I like that personally. But some things aren't adding up.

th?id=OIP.jpg
 

clint440

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No offense taken nor intent of shooting friendly messengers. I just speak/write direct, army active voice;)

I used Amsoil SS 5/20, sealed containers. Did not mix it. Sample done with 9,400 miles on oil through Pape Machinery. It is what it is. Trust me, I'm not married to it, I just don't have enough miles yet for sample 2. I dial the oil in on everything I operate.

My point was that the Redline 10/30 seemed better than RL 5/30 based on RLK's sample compared to others. So if anything, I would switch to 10/30 redline as that's the gold standard thus so far.

Maybe I should read more, but oil threads exhaust me and you keep feeding me useful, pointed information that triggers more questions. Not a bad thing, saves me time. Some of my interpretation is different than yours but that's ok.
 

Burla

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RLK and I disagree on that one issue, you can always try 10w30 first and see how you like it if you feel like trying redline at some point. But you see what I'm saying right? That oil in your uoa isn't twenty weight, it isn't on the border of being a twenty weight, it is thicker then Amsoil 5w30 out the gate. I wouldn't say that is a bad thing, unless it was degraded to the point past thinning into thickening, which I do not believe happened, like I said 5w20 is the most stable oil. Either there was a mistake on the bottles, or the lab made a mistake, or something in the fuel thickened the oil, would be my guesses. But, I'm just reading your uoa, so I don't have any insight into what exactly happened, just that aint close to 5w20.

Two guys at bob's last time I checked, had their Amsoil look red on the dipstick like transmission fluid. Was there a mix up? I don't know, but there was two separate guys reporting it. Was there is a mix up with your oil? Dunno, **** happens.
 

clint440

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Yes, I know what you are saying. It made me happy with my 5/20 in that respect. The oil when pulled on the stick looks clean and brown like it's new.

In my motorcycle my selected oils (non Amsoil) always break down thinner than spec from the same lab that tested my RAM pickup sample. If I recall, I think all of the samples I have done with various Amsoil for various applications, the viscosities always seem to hold up.

In this case Amsoil 5/20 exceeded it according to my test. Without testing Amsoil SS 5w30 same conditions and lab I don't know what it would do. We can speculate. Will I go to the trouble to do that? I dunno I have a good, proven RL 10/30 to consider based on the evidence provided by this thread.

The copper and silicon is what is on my radar first followed by iron. Hoping it's new Hemi break-in and a switch of air filters.
 

Burla

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That silicone is nothing, it's in every amsoil and redline uoa I've seen, it's probably part of their anti foam package. If you like Amsoil I'd really suggest you give it another shot, but there is enough info that you really should consider another uoa.
 

clint440

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My understanding is that is a contaminant from the air filter side, not related to additive packages. That not true? I've seen it it in other reports in the comments. My Last vehicle which was a diesel, 2 air filters and 12 quarts of oil, I would get 6 or 7 silica at 15k mile intervals.

I will do another sample around 15kish, and report back.

Disclaimer: Apologies to the public and post originator for taking the thread over.
 

Burla

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If you are worried cut open your oil filter next time. I live on a gravel driveway and still have yet to change my air filter, although it is on my shortlist. The factory air box is a good design, takes it from inside fender well. If you feel like changing the filter go ahead, but it is likely that silicone will stay around 10ppm. Silicone by itself is harmless, only if it comes with dirt is it, and the only way to tell is cut open oil filter and inspect it.
 

clint440

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Interesting, will do.

I inherited the K&N 77 series CAI. Came on the Ram when I bought it. I'm skeptical of KN filters.
 

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Interesting, will do.

I inherited the K&N 77 series CAI. Came on the Ram when I bought it. I'm skeptical of KN filters.

They work ok if you keep them properly oiled, however, I too ain't the biggest fan. I much prefer the dry flow filters from the likes of AEM or AFE which also come stock with the newer Mopar CAI's. Sadly my Vararam uses the oiled green filter that no-one seems to make a dry flow to replace so I'm religious in my oiling procedure when I clean it.

The easiest way to rid yourself of the oiled filter would be to measure it and simple grab a dry flow filter as a direct replacement. Being that most K&N intakes just use one of their off the shelf cones it should be pretty easy to find a dry flow that fits without much effort.

Edit : AEM does have a direct replacement. Being that K&N and AEM are in bed together it makes since

https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RF-1044

https://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?prod=AEM-21-2100DK

Or the same filter as the K&N non oiled intake filter :

https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RU-3101HBK
 
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Got 1

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Bought my truck brand new. Did the first oil change at 4500 miles and I switched to RL 5w-20 with RP oil filter. With the factory oil in it I experienced the tick at cold starts so after switching to RL, it quieted down the engine but I still heard the tick for couple of times, not so often though.
Few days ago, at 10k miles did a new oil change, this time with RL 5w-30 and same RP filter. Truck purrs like a kitten and NO tick at startup. Next thing I'm planning to do an uoa, since I assume the engine was broken in so far. I'll probably keep it for 7k miles then drain it and send a sample to Blackstone.

What's your oci with RL 5w-30 and Royal Purple oil filter?
 

clint440

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They work ok if you keep them properly oiled, however, I too ain't the biggest fan. I much prefer the dry flow filters from the likes of AEM or AFE which also come stock with the newer Mopar CAI's. Sadly my Vararam uses the oiled green filter that no-one seems to make a dry flow to replace so I'm religious in my oiling procedure when I clean it.

The easiest way to rid yourself of the oiled filter would be to measure it and simple grab a dry flow filter as a direct replacement. Being that most K&N intakes just use one of their off the shelf cones it should be pretty easy to find a dry flow that fits without much effort.

Edit : AEM does have a direct replacement. Being that K&N and AEM are in bed together it makes since

https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RF-1044

https://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?prod=AEM-21-2100DK

Or the same filter as the K&N non oiled intake filter :

https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RU-3101HBK

It has the KN 1044 dry filter on it. I was thinking to replace it with an Amsoil:

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...ir/amsoil-ea-universal-air-induction-filters/


Part of me wants a different intake altogether but I'm not sure if it's a wise investment. How do you like the Varam? I'd be ok with an oiled filter if it's proven to filter.
 

joshuaeb09

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It has the KN 1044 dry filter on it. I was thinking to replace it with an Amsoil:

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...ir/amsoil-ea-universal-air-induction-filters/


Part of me wants a different intake altogether but I'm not sure if it's a wise investment. How do you like the Varam? I'd be ok with an oiled filter if it's proven to filter.


I had the S&B prior and I ended up hating it long term. I could never get rid of the rattles on back roads no matter what I tried (Foam, rubber mount isolators, you name it), but loved the disposable paper filters with a pre-wrap. I certainly noticed a difference when I swapped to the vararam and it frees up so much room in the engine bay. The biggest difference I noticed from the vararam was a big drop in the IAT and a bit more pep at speed over my S&B intake or the stock box. With my Greene tune its a little more noticeable on top of that.

Sometimes I'm tempted to see if I can fit the 2nd battery tray from a CTD over where the stock stuff was and swap to the 220amp police alternator, but then I remember I'm only running 850ish Watts RMS lol.
 

Burla

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What's your oci with RL 5w-30 and Royal Purple oil filter?
depends on how you drive and the truck, everyone is different. I suggest getting a uoa. My truck goes 2 years 10k miles with ease as proven by uoa.
 

Got 1

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depends on how you drive and the truck, everyone is different. I suggest getting a uoa. My truck goes 2 years 10k miles with ease as proven by uoa.

Most of my driving is in the suburbs, like 1k/month. Definitely I'll do a uoa on my next oil change.
Thanks.
 

Burla

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Yeah, that is harder on oil then long trips, but those are my miles as well. Most of the time Redline can be a long interval oil if someone chooses it to be.
 

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