Royal Purple Oil Filter?

[huntergreen]

Does it really?

Last time I checked, the site said meets FCA standards, but does not carry the fca spec number.

 

[NY Andrew]

Straight from their website. Look at bottom then compare it to manual “We recommend you use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Mopar, Pennzoil, and Shell Helix. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade.”

 

[JB1]

That’s great, I was using PUP but I may have to switch over to RL now, I’m due in a couple months anyway.

 

[huntergreen]

Straight from their website. Look at bottom then compare it to manual “We recommend you use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Mopar, Pennzoil, and Shell Helix. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade.”

Suitable replacement does not mean it was tested and received the FCA certification. That being said, IMHO, it is a superior oil for our engines. It is questionable as to whether or not this will void the warranty if you drop a lifter and wipe out your cam. First thing hat is going to be asked for are your oil receipts.

 

[NY Andrew]

But has anyone posted any negative experiences of such? I can’t recall through all the oil threads I’ve read about red line anyone having any issues caused by it expect maybe the “tick” not fully going away like hoped. Red Line makes race oil I’d like to assume it’s almost the best of the best especially considering the price as well. And everyone who gets oil analysis has great results from it.

Also debating myself if I want to get a standard oil analysis with particle count for this first oil change and then after RedLine oil change. Hmm

 

[kkreit01]

Once again, "Suitable replacement", or "Recommended" does not equal "Meets". Use your own judgement, or talk to your dealer (whom would handle warranty repairs) if in doubt.

 

[NY Andrew]

Just received it, on bottle it says “not for break in allow 2,000 miles”. I’m at 3k. Ideally you want to use factory oil for 2-3k because it’s special for break in so obviously wouldn’t want to use this before that which I could see being in issue for a warranty claim possibly and whatnot, but being after break in and everything I’ve read, I see nothing but pros to this oil. Guess we’ll see.

 

[huntergreen]

But has anyone posted any negative experiences of such? I can’t recall through all the oil threads I’ve read about red line anyone having any issues caused by it expect maybe the “tick” not fully going away like hoped. Red Line makes race oil I’d like to assume it’s almost the best of the best especially considering the price as well. And everyone who gets oil analysis has great results from it.

Also debating myself if I want to get a standard oil analysis with particle count for this first oil change and then after RedLine oil change. Hmm

Absolutely one of the best oils for the hemi. No question. It is a shame that using a much better oil than those with the FCA certs can be used to void a warranty. Keep in mind there have been folks who have dropped a lifter and wiped out a cam .shaft before the end of the drivetrain warranty. Rare, but it has happened. IMHO, this is the reason the warranty was reduced from 100000 miles to 60000 miles.

Imho, an oil analysis on the first oil change isn't going to tell you anything other than the engine is breaking in. Just cut the oil filter open and you will see what is going on with the engine.

 

[NY Andrew]

That could be due to a whole slew of factors. Worst thing I do for the truck is let it idle for up to 30 minutes before I get in it once a week sometimes so I have more idle time than drive time prob.

Yea I thought about cutting it open, that makes sense. I was just thinking that if I get a before and after if RedLine could see how it’s working, but I guess I’ll pass on the first one like you said. Waiting on the catch can still (sorta wanted to have that on to filter the oil before I changed it the first time woulda been interesting to see the buildup, but it’ll have to wait for next oil change).

 

[huntergreen]

Just received it, on bottle it says “not for break in allow 2,000 miles”. I’m at 3k. Ideally you want to use factory oil for 2-3k because it’s special for break in so obviously wouldn’t want to use this before that which I could see being in issue for a warranty claim possibly and whatnot, but being after break in and everything I’ve read, I see nothing but pros to this oil. Guess we’ll see.

As far as I have been able to figure out, the ram comes from the factory with penzoil syn blend, nothing special about it. No special additives. In the eighties when wife and I bought new car and truck, I changed the oil as soon as we got home with M1. Never had an oil issue.

 

[NY Andrew]

Yes I feel like that’s why there’s so much controversy over oil changes is so many of us still stuck in old ways when you’d change the oil as soon as possible. Had to fight changing it sooner than I am but decided to push it to 12 months because the mileage and from what I recall is the break in of the oil. But you’re right, what could be so special about it. If anything you’d want to just clean any potential pieces from it as soon as possible I’d think but again the lore it runs I guess the more it’s flushing out potentially. So much controversy, so many opinions, barely any right or wrong answers hah

 

[kkreit01]

^ FYI - there is no special break-in oil. I would still dump it sooner than 12 months (also depends on miles). I bought mine in Sept. It sat on the lot for over 1 year. I've already changed it twice (at 5k miles now). But you are right, "so many opinions"...

 

[acd118]

So I was gonna start going to dealership for oil changes like I used to for past vehicles, but I don’t think they do tire rotations as well and that was my primary reason for going. I need oil rotation once a year. And the website says 5qts for oil change and ours takes 7qts.. so all this in to consideration prob be $150 I’d think or more at dealership...

So guessing I’ll have to start window shopping for best place to tire rotate and balance. I was gonna do that on my own but can’t balance....and sometimes the weights fall off...so guess that’s out. But might just rotate every other oil change which would be around 10k tire rotation intervals.

Gonna be using RedLine 5W-20 because that’s recommended in manual over 5W-30. Where do you guys purchase? I’m thinking Amazon.

And main question is what oil filter from Royal Purple for 5.7L V8 4x4 Hemi? Amazon tells me 10-48, but unsure if that’s correct because I’ve seen different recommendations on here...

Just got this email from Ram. It has coupons for tires, oil changes, and other maintenance options. Hope this helps.
https://www.mopar.com/en-us/savings...36&gclid=CODvy9yJ0uECFZTiswodIFMOEA&gclsrc=ds

 

[JB1]

I change my oil every 6 months, I drive less than 6000/year. My truck will be 2 years old 06/19 and I just turned 10k miles.

 

[oilfield trashed]

As far as I have been able to figure out, the ram comes from the factory with penzoil syn blend, nothing special about it. No special additives. In the eighties when wife and I bought new car and truck, I changed the oil as soon as we got home with M1. Never had an oil issue.

Same here, 2012 ram came with mobil 1 syn.
Still use it but always using K&N filter.
No hemi tick to date
85 thou. Knocking on wood now!

 

[tidefan1967]

Yes I feel like that’s why there’s so much controversy over oil changes is so many of us still stuck in old ways when you’d change the oil as soon as possible. Had to fight changing it sooner than I am but decided to push it to 12 months because the mileage and from what I recall is the break in of the oil. But you’re right, what could be so special about it. If anything you’d want to just clean any potential pieces from it as soon as possible I’d think but again the lore it runs I guess the more it’s flushing out potentially. So much controversy, so many opinions, barely any right or wrong answers hah

First oil change for me at 3K miles with PYB, 2nd at 6K with PYB and then make the switch to a good synthetic oil at 10K miles(preferably Redline 5W30)I personally never switch to synthetic before 10K miles because I want the engine to get some wear on it, break in a little before making the switch because if you swap over to a real synthetic oil before that it might take 50K miles for it to really break in. Switching to a group III synthetic before then might be OK since Group III's are not really synthetic to begin with, just highly refined Dino oils.

 

[NY Andrew]

First oil change for me at 3K miles with PYB, 2nd at 6K with PYB and then make the switch to a good synthetic oil at 10K miles(preferably Redline 5W30)I personally never switch to synthetic before 10K miles because I want the engine to get some wear on it, break in a little before making the switch because if you swap over to a real synthetic oil before that it might take 50K miles for it to really break in. Switching to a group III synthetic before then might be OK since Group III's are not really synthetic to begin with, just highly refined Dino oils.

Not trying to cause argument or debate, but me having switched to full synthetic RedLine W20 now may not allow a long break in BUT it has to contribute to a healthier engine for more longevity than waiting until say 50k miles of wear and tear already. Only gain I see to a fully broken in engine is maybe more stable/possibly better MPG. And no one buys a used car looking for higher mileage because of a more “broken in engine”, our brain logic prefers less mileage because to us that seems like newer and less wear and tear. Just my 2 cents.

Also me personally I wouldn’t do a W30 because it’s not the recommended oil from engineers and it may not get in to all the places it needs to. Now at 100K+ maybe W30, but not this soon at all.

My Hemi tick is gone, feels like much more power and smoother, and only downside is the oil PSI around 34.

 

[kkreit01]

Also me personally I wouldn’t do a W30 because it’s not the recommended oil from engineers and it may not get in to all the places it needs to. Now at 100K+ maybe W30, but not this soon at all.

My Hemi tick is gone, feels like much more power and smoother, and only downside is the oil PSI around 34.

Redline is not recommended either. Well, it's "recommended" by Redline, but not FCA/Chrysler.

 

[chrisbh17]

Redline is not recommended either. Well, it's "recommended" by Redline, but not FCA/Chrysler.

That's because they have no financial gain if you buy Redline

 

[corneileous]

Redline is not recommended either. Well, it's "recommended" by Redline, but not FCA/Chrysler.

I just remembered, a while back I had emailed Redline about that and yes, you’re 100% correct. I’m sure they’ve probably released the new product by now but back in January when I talked to them, they hadn’t released it yet but they said the product they have that’s API certified is their new Pro Series. But no oil they sell meets Chrysler’s specifications.

At one point I was interested in a 5w20 oil of theirs because there’s so much rave about here in Ram forums but since I too am under warranty, and will be for as long as own the truck, Redline’s out for me.

I’m still thinking about trying Amsoil XL or their Signature Series after I go through the last of my PUP, but at least Amsoil’s products are both API and Chrysler certified.


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