Running rich and don’t know why.

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Yeret

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I'm gonna side with Pepper on this one. Your setup is too far in left field for a real tuner to simply scribble up a tune based on a PDF file. One needs to see just what the engine is doing and what the sensors are reading and that information is only going to be obtained via datalogging. I know enough about that stuff to pretend that I know what I'm talking about, so I'm gonna leave explanation of procedure to those here who DO know what it all entails, LOL.

Oh, and if you do proceed down this route, make sure you hook up that upstream O2 sensor or specifically tell the tuner that you aren't going to use O2 sensors. Much more recommended to setup the engine WITH them than without.
 

El Huapo

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The old engine ran rich too...? Something restricting the air intake? Are you using the same old air filter & box & hose? Does it run any different with no air filter etc.?
 
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Sailing Santa

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Latest update.

Yes the old engine ran rich. But, it also had terrible compression and both heads were cracked.

The new engine was exhibiting close to the same symptoms. *MY* error was to assume that it was the same problem. This past weekend I decided to “go back to basics” and start over with all the settings. What I found was the distributor drive gear was one tooth too far ahead, so I guess that meant the spark was super advanced by how many degrees that is. Resetting everything to TDC, pulling out the distributor stem and a quick gear reposition got it behaving better. I used the Snap-On scanner today, it’s now set at zero, +/- o.5% fuel sync. Amazing how much better it’s running now. I’ll still plan on fine tuning the factory setting and look forward to posting the results. I’ve got a road trip up the east coast towing a box trailer tomorrow. It’ll be a rolling laboratory.
 

Yeret

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LOL, hey, sometimes it's the simple things, right?

I'd be cautious doing any kind of towing with your configuration. Not that power would be a concern, but you're running an aftermarket configuration with factory tuning. Now, this is just hypothetically speaking because it's hard to say what exactly is going to happen, but my theory is that under load conditions, the engine could run on the lean side. The reason being that the computer with factory tuning is now being asked to fuel an engine that is now drawing in much more air than it was intended to.

If you haven't reconnected up your upstream O2 sensor yet, this could actually be a justifiable case for leaving it disconnected for now. The engine, assuming it stays locked in "open loop" mode, will run rich during all load conditions and will likely result in poor light-load performance and crappy fuel economy, but this should also prevent a lean condition, which, especially under load, could cause a myriad of problems. Not saying a rich-running engine won't have it's own problems, but if I know I'm gonna be really running it, I'd rather a bit rich than a bit lean.

As I said, it's all hypothetical. Not sure how much weight you're gonna be pulling, but one way or the other, you're going to want the engine management dialed in for your configuration. Afterwards, It's just going to be so much more worry-free and maximized. For now, it's best just to run it easy and listen/feel for engine conditions.
 

dapepper9

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LOL, hey, sometimes it's the simple things, right?

I'd be cautious doing any kind of towing with your configuration. Not that power would be a concern, but you're running an aftermarket configuration with factory tuning. Now, this is just hypothetically speaking because it's hard to say what exactly is going to happen, but my theory is that under load conditions, the engine could run on the lean side. The reason being that the computer with factory tuning is now being asked to fuel an engine that is now drawing in much more air than it was intended to.

If you haven't reconnected up your upstream O2 sensor yet, this could actually be a justifiable case for leaving it disconnected for now. The engine, assuming it stays locked in "open loop" mode, will run rich during all load conditions and will likely result in poor light-load performance and crappy fuel economy, but this should also prevent a lean condition, which, especially under load, could cause a myriad of problems. Not saying a rich-running engine won't have it's own problems, but if I know I'm gonna be really running it, I'd rather a bit rich than a bit lean.

As I said, it's all hypothetical. Not sure how much weight you're gonna be pulling, but one way or the other, you're going to want the engine management dialed in for your configuration. Afterwards, It's just going to be so much more worry-free and maximized. For now, it's best just to run it easy and listen/feel for engine conditions.
He says earlier in the thread he's using Hughes for SCT tuning. Sooo.... in theory.... he should be fine now that a mechanical issue has been solved. I would put a wideband 02 with an A/F gauge in it and go from there. Towing and stuff like that I'd work in gradually while watching what the a/f ratio is doing
 
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Sailing Santa

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I took the Hughes program *out* and am back to factory for the moment. In all honesty, I now see the Hughes SCT programmer purchase as money down the toilet - confirmed by the fellow that actually PROGRAMS the units for Hughes. A perfect case of my gullibility and faith that throwing cash at a problem might make it better. This is a big classroom for me. The CompCam is suitable to run on stock programming and although I didn’t initially believe it, I owe Titan an apology. (*sorry*) This doesn’t mean I’m anti-Hughes. All their products have been stellar. I’m a believer. After the PCM relearns the new engine, I’m betting I’ll have better numbers to report. I’m going to be running TouchScan software on my laptop and recording a strip chart in 45 minute chunks. Yes, one of the parameters is the air to fuel ratio. I wish one of the PIDs available to me was transmission temp. That would be helpful. This is going to be a long drive. Overdrive off for towing.

On the back side of the trip I would like to get this on a real tuner with a guy that has immediate feedback to changes. I don’t see me buying another vehicle for many years. I don’t drive often, or everyday even. But I do appreciate good tools.
 

dapepper9

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I took the Hughes program *out* and am back to factory for the moment. In all honesty, I now see the Hughes SCT programmer purchase as money down the toilet - confirmed by the fellow that actually PROGRAMS the units for Hughes. A perfect case of my gullibility and faith that throwing cash at a problem might make it better. This is a big classroom for me. The CompCam is suitable to run on stock programming and although I didn’t initially believe it, I owe Titan an apology. (*sorry*) This doesn’t mean I’m anti-Hughes. All their products have been stellar. I’m a believer. After the PCM relearns the new engine, I’m betting I’ll have better numbers to report. I’m going to be running TouchScan software on my laptop and recording a strip chart in 45 minute chunks. Yes, one of the parameters is the air to fuel ratio. I wish one of the PIDs available to me was transmission temp. That would be helpful. This is going to be a long drive. Overdrive off for towing.
What do you mean money down the toilet? What did he confirm?
 
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Sailing Santa

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He confirmed that the CompCam in the engine should have run 100% with the factory program. There was no need to buy the programmer.
 
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