Rust proofing advice

[62Blazer]

I'm applying Wools Wax rust proofing/undercoating on my 2016 2500.

Any specific areas to really concentrate on? Older gens seem to have rust spots over the rear wheelwells/fenders. What is the best way to get inside this area? Mine has the factory fender flares.

So far I have concentrated on getting inside any hole in the frame or brackets (360 degree tip), and any weld seam, bolt hole, or any connection. Rocker panels were easy with the factory taped over holes. What about getting inside the lower doors? Should I drill some holes and get plugs. I just bought this truck last year and it is low mileage and pretty clean, but you could tell the areas that were just starting a little surface rust as some guideance.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Op, I have my truck Krowned annually,

Having watched them since 2012, no need to drill holes.

Drop your tail lights out, and you can spray inside the bed all the way to the cab.

Pull the tape off the rockers and you can spray everything.

Roll your windows down and you can spray the entire inside of the door from the top. You will need to insert the spray wand down inside the door and yes you have to clean your windows afterwards.

Put on a lift or elevate on jack stands and spray everything underneath if you want remove fender liners to make life easier.

Raise the hood and go to town on the engine bay.

No need to touch the hood as it's mostly aluminum you can if you want.

If you have it done.

Takes them about 2 hours.

Do it yourself, it will take a day.

My 11, no rust. Been driven all over the country and spent over 5 years in the rust belt. No rust anywhere, frame is black, no orange from even a hint of rust.

Now I will say, when you go to work on it, long sleeves, gloves etc as you get greasy oily but that's the price to pay for no rust.

Make certain after you spray you don't get out it traffic. It takes a while to get it off your brakes. If you are doing it yourself, I recommend fluid film or krown products

 

[Burla]

this is the thread to read for this...

 

[caulk04]

The thread on it is pretty good.

Get the outer rockers too, not just the big taped over holes of the inner rocker. Smaller oval plugs for the outers.

I'd recommend doing the hood, rinse it out well and get a good coat in it once, there's lots on crevices. Likely no need to ever reapply. Aluminum will corrode too, our explorer has some nasty spots in the hood.

 

[gixxer]

There is a spot between your front fender and the front doors. You have to take out the wheel well but lots of debris gets stuck in there at the bottom where the wheel well piece sits.

I would get the debris out as mine was full of mud and leaves.

 

[62Blazer]

Thanks for the advice and especially the link. Figured there was a write up on this but searched quite a bit and never found it. So far I have spent about 4 total hours over a couple days working on it, but need to get the tailgate and a couple of the other places mentioned in the post.
I bought a kit that contains a small spray gun with two wands (straight and 360) and a fan tip, and 4 quarts that screw onto the gun of Wools Wax. From my research the Wools Wax is the same basic thing as Fluid Film or Krown. I tend to keep trucks for a long time and live in the salt belt and trying to save this one. My last Chevy was 16 years old when I got rid of it and while mechanically it was in good shape it started having issues due to rust. Had to replaced fuel lines, brake lines, both the trans shifter and t-case shifter underneath rusted out, rear diff cover rusted out and started leaking, and the rocker panels were gone.

 

[John Sabatula]

Take down the rear wheel well liners and spray good in the openings, my truck I needed to run wire in the holes due to the foam from the factory.