Shift solenoid replacement DIY

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WallE84

Junior Member
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Jul 1, 2014
Posts
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Ram Year
2007
Engine
Hemi 5.7
I got a DTC P0750 indicatating my solenoid pack was bad and time to replace. I recently bought a mechanics set so now I feel I am a mechanic and decided to do this myself. I have zero experience with transmissions so this is one of many first for me. Also new to the forums so I hope this is in the right place. Here we go

ATTACH]
here I loosened up the pan screw's, as gently as possible tapped a screwdriver until the pan broke loose. Oil will be going everywhere and a lot of it so be prepared because I wasn't. I highlight the connector that needs to be disconnected which is attached to the solenoid itself.

ATTACH]

Once the pan is off I removed the filters. Unscrewed the one that looks a regular oil filter. The flat filter has a screw(which I highlighted) that comes off with a T20?? star bit I believe. This was a little tricky getting off for me because of the bad angle it was at and limited tools in my arsenal. Once it's off just wiggled it loose. It fought a bit but eventually came off.

ATTACH]

After removing the filters I removed the screw's (highlighted in blue) holding the valve body on. These were the same size as the screw's holding the pan on. Also removed the seal highlighted in red. I used needle nose to pry this off.

ATTACH]

Once I got the valve body off I removed the screw's (using same bit holding the flat filter) holding the solenoid pack on. I circled them for you. Once I got them all off the solenoid pack came loose, took it off and placed the new pack making sure it's lined up properly. Replaced the screw's back then tightened them at 50inlb torque.

Now just started doing things in reverse. Placed the valve body back on making sure it sits nice and flush. I torqued these screws at 105inlb. Replaced the filters remembering to replace the removed seal I mentioned earlier. Made sure the flat filter was inserted properly in the seal and replace the screw holding it.

At this time I cleaned the pan and the magnet. Also added a drain plug at this time just to make life easier down the road. Apply a bead of black rtv around the seal of the pan and slap it on. Tighten the screws down just enough to where they are tight but leaving enough room for another 1/4 - 1/2 turn.

After an hour come back and tighten the screws the rest the way. I didn't torque them I opted to just tighten them using my own judgment because I didn't want to break any. I waited another hour or so then added fluid. Took about 6-7 quarts to fill her up.

ATTACH]


There it is all put back together. After waiting about three hours for the rtv to dry I took her out to see the results. I'm happy to say its been two days and she is running great again. Nothing is leaking and I got my baby back after being down for about a month. I also added a sonnax booster and it feels like it's shifting real nice. Im definitely no expert. these were just the processes I used to tackle this project. If I helped one person I guess this write up was worth it. Feel free to chime in on anything I may have did wrong or could of done better.
 

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RamRod37

2014 Ram 2500 HD 5.7 Hemi
Joined
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Georgetown TN
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5.7L Hemi
I got a DTC P0750 indicatating my solenoid pack was bad and time to replace. I recently bought a mechanics set so now I feel I am a mechanic and decided to do this myself. I have zero experience with transmissions so this is one of many first for me. Also new to the forums so I hope this is in the right place. Here we go

ATTACH]
here I loosened up the pan screw's, as gently as possible tapped a screwdriver until the pan broke loose. Oil will be going everywhere and a lot of it so be prepared because I wasn't. I highlight the connector that needs to be disconnected which is attached to the solenoid itself.

ATTACH]

Once the pan is off I removed the filters. Unscrewed the one that looks a regular oil filter. The flat filter has a screw(which I highlighted) that comes off with a T20?? star bit I believe. This was a little tricky getting off for me because of the bad angle it was at and limited tools in my arsenal. Once it's off just wiggled it loose. It fought a bit but eventually came off.

ATTACH]

After removing the filters I removed the screw's (highlighted in blue) holding the valve body on. These were the same size as the screw's holding the pan on. Also removed the seal highlighted in red. I used needle nose to pry this off.

ATTACH]

Once I got the valve body off I removed the screw's (using same bit holding the flat filter) holding the solenoid pack on. I circled them for you. Once I got them all off the solenoid pack came loose, took it off and placed the new pack making sure it's lined up properly. Replaced the screw's back then tightened them at 50inlb torque.

Now just started doing things in reverse. Placed the valve body back on making sure it sits nice and flush. I torqued these screws at 105inlb. Replaced the filters remembering to replace the removed seal I mentioned earlier. Made sure the flat filter was inserted properly in the seal and replace the screw holding it.

At this time I cleaned the pan and the magnet. Also added a drain plug at this time just to make life easier down the road. Apply a bead of black rtv around the seal of the pan and slap it on. Tighten the screws down just enough to where they are tight but leaving enough room for another 1/4 - 1/2 turn.

After an hour come back and tighten the screws the rest the way. I didn't torque them I opted to just tighten them using my own judgment because I didn't want to break any. I waited another hour or so then added fluid. Took about 6-7 quarts to fill her up.

ATTACH]


There it is all put back together. After waiting about three hours for the rtv to dry I took her out to see the results. I'm happy to say its been two days and she is running great again. Nothing is leaking and I got my baby back after being down for about a month. I also added a sonnax booster and it feels like it's shifting real nice. Im definitely no expert. these were just the processes I used to tackle this project. If I helped one person I guess this write up was worth it. Feel free to chime in on anything I may have did wrong or could of done better.
That's good just never use rtv sealer or any sealer for that matter On a trans pan the sealer over time breaks up and stops up valve ports any trans tech will tell the same thing never use sealer on trans but good info other wise
 
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WallE84

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Thanks for the heads up. Looks like I'll be changing out the oil sooner rather than later. Good thing I added the drain plug. Hopefully it holds up until then.
 

RamRod37

2014 Ram 2500 HD 5.7 Hemi
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Thanks for the heads up. Looks like I'll be changing out the oil sooner rather than later. Good thing I added the drain plug. Hopefully it holds up until then.

If it was me id pull the pan back off and scrape all access sealer that got inside the fluid area and if you did use a gasket just put its all back on after cleaned if pan is still true flat it should seal fine I recommend this because years ago when I first started working on my own stuff well iv always done my own stuff but anyway I done the same thing and a month later my trans quit wanting to catch 2nd and reverse trans work is one and the only one thing I don't do so I took it to trans shop and it wound up costing me 543 dollars for them to take it down and they found the rtv sealer clogging ports I learned the hard way that was 22 yrs ago and you don't forget that I don't want you to have same issues
 
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WallE84

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If it was me id pull the pan back off and scrape all access sealer that got inside the fluid area and if you did use a gasket just put its all back on after cleaned if pan is still true flat it should seal fine I recommend this because years ago when I first started working on my own stuff well iv always done my own stuff but anyway I done the same thing and a month later my trans quit wanting to catch 2nd and reverse trans work is one and the only one thing I don't do so I took it to trans shop and it wound up costing me 543 dollars for them to take it down and they found the rtv sealer clogging ports I learned the hard way that was 22 yrs ago and you don't forget that I don't want you to have same issues
Would the filters not be able to catch the debris come off the sealant?
 

hemidup

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Supercharged 6.4 Hemi
These transmissions come from the factory using RTV instead of a pan gasket. Besides there's no way for a piece to get past the filter.
 

05daytona

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You're not supposed to use that much RTV that is squishes out and makes a mess. All you need is a thin film.
 

Hitmanray

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magnum 4.7L V8
I'm having that same problem but I'm no mechanic. Will it cost alot to pay someone?
 

07Black-n-YellowHemi

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WallE84,
I know this thread was 2 years ago, but I just ran into the same issue and I followed your instructions and used your pics to successfully disassemble my transmission correctly! I couldn't have done it without you!! You're amazing and a great thread writer, THANK YOU!!
 

synbios128

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Magnum 4.7
I had this same issue, replaced the solenoid pack, ALSO KNOWN AS Kickdown solenoid. Would have been good to put a little extra detail in the part for us non-mechanics. Anyway, after replacing the solenoid, nothing. Transmission does not shift into gear. I'm guessing defective part.
 

Espcris

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Hemispheres 5.7
please help

I recently replaced the transmission solenoid on my '11 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi 5.7. Once I had it all together I noticed a new problem. My dash indicator shows that I'm in reverse at all times no matter what gear I'm in. It seems to be shifting gears without issues but I haven't driven it other than around the block until I find out what this new issue could be.

Any help will be appreciated.
 

FamilyGuy

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US
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2009
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6.7 Cummins
I had this same issue, replaced the solenoid pack, ALSO KNOWN AS Kickdown solenoid. Would have been good to put a little extra detail in the part for us non-mechanics. Anyway, after replacing the solenoid, nothing. Transmission does not shift into gear. I'm guessing defective part.
Did it end up being a bad part? I just replaced mine, nothing's happening.
Thanks for any advice.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 

Malodave

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New Hamshire
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2008
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5.7L HEMI
I just did mine on a 2008. It was supposed to be covered under the Lifetime Powertrain Warranty.
But they found a way to weasel out of it. The Fine print said I had to get the truck inspected every 5 years.
I did both the 5 yr and 10 year inspections. However the fine print also said within 60 days of the in Service date.
I was a little late on the 10 Year date.

Dealer wanted $1800 to fix the Selenoid pack and Valve Body. I got the whole shebang for $400 shipped
on Ebay. Add the Trans Fluid and I was still under $500 for the job. I used the car lift at my Local Maker Space.
Hardest part was cleaning all the factory RTV from the pan and housing.

Malodave
 

jholaway1971

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Pearce Arizona
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I have a 04 quad cab that has a reluctant shift into overdrive, so anyone have part numbers or a link where to buy the parts
 
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