Should you replace rotors with every break job

[Brian Sullivan]

I have the rotors turned when replacing the pads. Just to be sure that they won't squeak. Breaks seams to last longer.

 

[michaelm_ski]

I replace my rotors every second brake change UNLESS you are doing any heavy hauling or there is damage on the rotors , I just drive casual and very seldom do any heavy hauling and could get away with every third brake change but it is cheap enough to do every other .

 

[bruce219]

I only replace mine if they get a little buckled from been overheated.Apart from that I never get them turned,usually replace with drilled and slotted.

 

[joelmic]

I was thinkin of this combo... just wanna buy ahead of time for when I decide to change them

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016VATTB...olid=3EFH89G46Y0ME&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD126...0SD3DR5K5FD&psc=1&refRID=GMWVF9AE00SD3DR5K5FD

feedback??


What about the hardware involved?? what hardware kit should I use?

 

[AE5548]

Approaching 40k miles and I suppose I should consider changing the pads, I’ve heard mixed opinions saying resurfacing isn’t ideal and you should just replace to Rotors and start from scratch with a fresh set of pads, what would you do?

I'm at 52k and i just checked my front pads yesterday, Not even half worn down. If you aren't towing and drive normally you shouldn't need to do pads any time soon. That being said, definitely no need to do rotors with pads every time. We have work trucks where rotors are fine after as many as 3 pad changeouts. I'll probably be doing pads at 70k or so. If my rotors are still within spec i'm not touching them.

 

[HDGoose]

If yall are replacing the junk stock rotors on a 2020 RAM 3500 at 40-50k miles, let me know. I will haul them to the dump for you.

 

[jr27236]

Highway speeds towing 9K pounds and someone cuts you off on highway. You know, the people that cut off truck drivers cut us off too. That is exactly how it happened.I have driven across this country more times than many people have probably driven to their work. I am not new to towing.

Ok, But you overheated brakes from a cutoff situation? Not questioning your experience. I have driven tractor trailers weighing in excess of 80k and been cutoff or had emergency braking situations and never over heated my brakes once. If your overheating your brakes you've been on them for quite some time.

 

[gwuhesos]

Approaching 40k miles and I suppose I should consider changing the pads, I’ve heard mixed opinions saying resurfacing isn’t ideal and you should just replace to Rotors and start from scratch with a fresh set of pads, what would you do?

I would say, if you are looking to upgrade your rotors, then go for it. If you are replacing with the same type of rotors, then what's the sense? Maybe with the next brake job?

 

[Mister Luck]

Approaching 40k miles and I suppose I should consider changing the pads, I’ve heard mixed opinions saying resurfacing isn’t ideal and you should just replace to Rotors and start from scratch with a fresh set of pads, what would you do?

Resurfacing rotors usually isn’t an issue as long as the rotors thickness is within specs

Inspection
if there is deep gouging on the rotor or discoloration
if you don’t know how to look for hotspots on the rotor, if you don’t know how to use a micrometer or a runout gauge take them to a reputable shop.

https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/ro...-to-decrease-comebacks-with-two-simple-tools/

If you have an existing problem and don’t correct it and just throw new parts at it you might create bigger problems down the road.

One of the reasons a professional shop cost more for repairs and maintenance is they’re insured and liable for any failures in the event of a catastrophe

it’s usually a per axel price and the’ll advise you of issues if and their option to turn or replace your rotors but it that you usually don’t have the option to supply your own parts which they ad to their profit margin trust can be an issue but check with your local BBB if they themselves are honorable and or a AAA service for recommendations

 

['06 Ram 2500]

I did the same thing at 40K miles. Brakes were squeaking so I bought new pads and turned the rotors. The rotors were in good condition with plenty of thickness left so no reason to replace. Will be changing my brake fluid soon but with another 18K on the truck all is good. No sense to spend more money when it is not needed. Rear brakes are still wearing fine.

 

[FiverPuller]

Whoa.... had my breaks checked-out just before we were hit head on and totaled the 2012 Ram 3500. Brakes (original) still looked good at 145,000 miles. 100,000 miles of that were pulling my Alpine fifthwheel. The difference must be using the exhaust brake and the use of trailer brakes, took most of the use off of the truck itself!?

 

[AE5548]

Whoa.... had my breaks checked-out just before we were hit head on and totaled the 2012 Ram 3500. Brakes (original) still looked good at 145,000 miles. 100,000 miles of that were pulling my Alpine fifthwheel. The difference must be using the exhaust brake and the use of trailer brakes, took most of the use off of the truck itself!?

More than anything it’s how you drive. If you drive conservatively and not braking hard every time you stop you’re brakes will last a LONG time. I can ride in a car or truck with someone and be able to tell very quickly if they need brakes often. Same with tires.

 

[GsRAM]

This

More than anything it’s how you drive. If you drive conservatively and not braking hard every time you stop you’re brakes will last a LONG time. I can ride in a car or truck with someone and be able to tell very quickly if they need brakes often. Same with tires.

This exactly! Yesterday, I had some idioit lady behind me driving a crew cab Toyota tundra like it was a Corolla. I thought she was going to rear end me. She was waiting till the last minute to brake and then she slammed them on to stop.

My thoughts were ;

1 - she should not be driving a full size pickup
2 - this lady will need new brakes every 15k miles
Lol!

 

[Sherman Bird]

More than anything it’s how you drive. If you drive conservatively and not braking hard every time you stop you’re brakes will last a LONG time. I can ride in a car or truck with someone and be able to tell very quickly if they need brakes often. Same with tires.

You're absolutely correct! When I was young, slim, and had hair, my Maternal Grandfather had a 1973 Pontiac Grandville. It sported a 455 BB engine and he routinely towed with it. At 100,000 miles, I was ****-sure that his car needed brakes; the car had the originals on it. He indulged me and let me pull the wheels off and remove the rear drums to inspect.... The brakes were still like new! They were barely worn! Seeing my disbelief at how good the brakes still were, he told me that he wasn't surprised and told me that it was his conservative, gentle driving habits that made the brakes (and car) last a long time.

I took away from that lesson and employ his conservative driving habit for myself! Guess what? My cars and their brakes last a really long time!

 

[GRN69CHV]

More goes into decision to replace rotors than just surface wear. Assuming normal pad wear (no hanging pins, frozen calipers,etc.) even if all indications are the friction surface is good, you still have the issue of corrosion to deal with. To me, that is often a deciding factor. Disc brakes rotors are cast with cooling fins for a reason, significant build-up of corrosion will greatly impact heat dissipation. Take all this into account and make an informed decision.

 

[HDGoose]

More goes into decision to replace rotors than just surface wear. Assuming normal pad wear (no hanging pins, frozen calipers,etc.) even if all indications are the friction surface is good, you still have the issue of corrosion to deal with. To me, that is often a deciding factor. Disc brakes rotors are cast with cooling fins for a reason, significant build-up of corrosion will greatly impact heat dissipation. Take all this into account and make an informed decision.

There is a reason rotors are made from cast iron.

 

[GsRAM]

You're absolutely correct! When I was young, slim, and had hair, my Maternal Grandfather had a 1973 Pontiac Grandville. It sported a 455 BB engine !

There is no big block Pontiac engine. 326 up to 455 all share the same block. The differences in displacement come from bore and stroke.

 

[GRN69CHV]

There is a reason rotors are made from cast iron.

Yes and like anything, there are different grades of castings. I spent 30 years in the valve industry, cast iron chemistry varies widely.

 

[Frankwhoa]

Out of convenience, I have bought new rotors and saved the old ones then got the old ones resurfaced the day before doing my brakes again the next time. That way you're not waiting for the shop to resurface you rotors with your truck on jack stands. At a minimum, you want to deglaze your old rotors with sand paper to help the new pads bite in and not glaze over. I may make a drill to spin my rotor to do just that. All this is assuming that you have no vibrations, etc to begin with. Otherwise resurface or replace. Oh! Go to HF and buy the brake bleeder that hooks up to your air compressor and flush your system. Better than new!

 

[MrMaricopa]

Approaching 40k miles and I suppose I should consider changing the pads, I’ve heard mixed opinions saying resurfacing isn’t ideal and you should just replace to Rotors and start from scratch with a fresh set of pads, what would you do?

You can turn the rotors 2-3 times before replacing unless excessive braking has severly warped them. At 50k miles I only needed to swap out the pads as rotors were fine. With the wheel on you can access the rotors and run you finger nail across to see if you feel any gouges.