Shudder above 45 MPH

[ChickenBender]

FIXED...clutch plate on the torque converter

 

[Trupiano]

Sounds like it's most likely in the drivetrain. Once you apply power, it tightens or locks up. Torque converter, transmission, or something in the rearend. I have no idea, but that's what I would put my money on.

 

[mcraezy87]

Sounds like it's most likely in the drivetrain. Once you apply power, it tightens or locks up. Torque converter, transmission, or something in the rearend. I have no idea, but that's what I would put my money on.

x2 had a charger the other week have a weird vibration at the rear, ended up someone left the rear driveshaft mounting bolts on the rear diff loose.
Universal joints also make a squeaking noise when free spinning, but are silent once the gas pedal is mashed. not saying its what your problems are but just a couple FYI's

 

[ChickenBender]

Fixed!!!

 

[BigSloth]

So you're having a shudder, but you replaced spark plugs... Does it feel like a misfire? like the engine is chugging or running rough? Or does it feel like the engine is running smoothly and something else is shuddering? Watch the tach if you're not sure. If it's an engine misfire you're feeling, the RPMs will fall then rise when it stops. If its a shudder or slip in the transmission, the RPMs will rise then fall when it stops.

 

[ChickenBender]

Fixed

 

[BigSloth]

You still didn't answer any of my questions regarding the rpms when it happens. Not trying to sound like a ***** but we need info to help since we can't be there to drive it.

Throwing parts at something is a terrible way to go about fixing a problem. Especially one where there could be so many different causes. There's 2 grand worth of parts between the rear end and the torque converter that you can replace, and when it ends up being a TCM problem that costs 100 bucks to fix you're going to feel silly. If we can get some good info and description going here, I'll try to point you in the right direction.

Right now it sounds like it's related to the transmission, simply because a misfire that causes a noticeable shudder will trip an active misfire DTC, which will cause the check engine light to flash. At such low RPM, it could be a number of things. But it sounds like your torque converter is coming in and out of lockup repeatedly. Without feeling it it's hard to say.

Need to know:

What do the rpms do when this happens.
What is your throttle position when this happens
Does it seem to happen when load is increased like climbing hills

 

[ChickenBender]

Fixed

 

[ChickenBender]

Fixed

 

[BigSloth]

Ok now we're getting somewhere. From what you're describing there it sounds like it's either a slipping band or a torque converter clutch problem. Both of those are probably being accentuated by the extra strain of turning 35s.

Do a stall test for me, drive the truck until it's warm, then stop on a level surface. Set the parking brake, then put trans in drive with left foot on the brake. Push the brake to the floor, and hit the gas until the engine rpms no longer rise. Record that rpm.

Put trans in reverse and repeat, record that rpm. Post your results

 

[ChickenBender]

Fixed

 

[BigSloth]

alright that's right on par with what you should be at. I cant fully remember the exact speeds, but the main thing is you want the figures in drive and reverse to be very close. Vastly different readings indicate internal transmission faults depending on which is high and which is low.

That being said, it leads me to believe your torque converter lockup clutch is slipping. But without knowing the codes(they are undoubtedly there, transmission DTC's will not trip a MIL unless its an engine speed code) I am not comfortable giving my 100% on that.

Question, does your superchips have the ability to read DTC's? I know my trinity does, and will read trans DTC's. So if yours will, then the codes would be great. No a pocket scanner or whatever they have at the auto parts store is not going to read trans DTC's.

And if you still cant get the codes, take it to a reputable dodge dealer and have them check it. Describe the issue, tell them you are pretty sure its the torque converter, they will want you to authorize a 1 hr diagnostic to check it out, this will cost between 90-130 bucks, but it will let you know for sure what is going on.

 

[ChickenBender]

Fixed

 

[BigSloth]

DTC's are diagnostic trouble codes.

Sounds like the best plan at this point. I know its $100 or so, but its better to pay and know exactly whats wrong rather than throw parts at it. Without being able to test the truck in person I dont wanna say 100% its the torque converter. And most places, when you get the repair done there they absorb the diag cost into the repair labor.

 

[MagnumRam]

Quick point, Editing all of the posts in a thread are a good way for people to not be able to use this thread for information. It sounds like a similar problem to what I was having, but I can't be sure because this person decided to remove all of their posts.