Wild one
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2016
- Posts
- 18,446
- Reaction score
- 36,996
- Ram Year
- 14 Sport
- Engine
- 5.7
It's good to have you back Jay,i missed the hard times,lolI'll go with you so someone will have bond money--just in case---LOL
Jay
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
It's good to have you back Jay,i missed the hard times,lolI'll go with you so someone will have bond money--just in case---LOL
Jay
Did you check the springs inside the coil boots for corrosion Daniel.They're famous for developing rust/corrosion. You can rebuild the coils with new boots/springs from Rock Auto,if your springs are badly corroded.I use one of these little brushes in a Dremel to clean up the contact point under the springs in the coil towers.If the springs aren't to bad,i just wire wheel them clean using a bench grinder with a wire wheel,and then stretch the springs out roughly a 1/4" to 1/2".I also just did my 100,000 mile spark plug job. I splurged for the Mopar plugs, and I noticed an interesting instruction on the back of the box for tightening the plugs: they recommend finger tightening until firm contact, and then turning another 1/2 to 2/3 turn with a ratchet. This has the interesting effect of applying the same amount of twist, and therefore "stretch" of the plug whether it has anti-seize or not, since you're not relying on applied torque, but instead measured thread twist/pitch/stretch.
I had all the right bank plugs installed this way with a 1/2 turn (I happened to not use anti-seize on most of them except for cylinder 8 because those were buggers to put a wrench on and I didn't want problems at 200,000 miles), and only then did I start to worry I had done wrong by not confirming a torque value.
So I looked up the torque values for the iridium plugs and found 18.5-22 ft-lbs, so I figured 20 ft-lb would do it. I put a torque wrench set to 20 ft-lb on one of the cylinder 2 plugs and started to crank, and to my relief, it started to turn without clicking. That meant I hadn't over-torqued them using the 1/2 to 2/3 turn method. As that was what was on the box, I figured it was just as valid of a method. And if you happen to use anti-seize and are worried about torque reduction, this method side-steps that problem. It also side-steps the problem of not being able to fit a torque wrench in those hard-to-get rear plugs.
View attachment 550160View attachment 550162View attachment 550163
Sorry about that,i should of been quicker on the uptake,lol. The boots just pull off with a twist and a good tug,and then the springs just slide out of the boot.If it's something i haven't had the plugs out of before,or in quite awhile,i'll check the springs over,and usually clean them up ,then use one of the little dremel brushes to buzz the contact points in the coil towers a bit cleaner. If the contact points are badly corroded,i'll use a pick to scratch most of the corrosion off ,then hit them with the dremel brush.Good news is the coils are easy to pull and check over,lol@Wild one now you tell me! Actually, when I was applying 3M silicone paste to the boots, I looked in the first one and I didn't notice anything I would say was badly corroded regarding the electrode. However, now I want to go inspect more closely. It's good to know they can be rebuilt, although cleaning sounds better. Do you find you have to do this at every spark-plug change? How do you remove the boots and access the spring?
Hey 20/20 hindsight is better then no hindsight,lol. When you get a few minutes,i'd pull a couple of the easy to get at coils,and pop the boots off and check the springs and contact points over for corrosion,if a coil on each bank looks good,odds are the rest will be good,but if they look a bit suspicious,then all will be suspicious,and should probably be cleaned up. It'll help your coils live longer if you do a bit of maintence on them every once inawhile@Wild one yeah I thought about that, so after I glooped it on, I scraped the big clumps out with a screw driver and then spread the remainder all around on the inside walls with my pinky so it wouldn't get caught between the electrode spring and the plug post. But, your way is better. Just wait until 200,000 miles rolls around: THE PERFECT SPARK PLUG CHANGE.
I have 16 NGK laser, iridium, spark plugs. I’m at 141,000 miles on a 2015 ram 1500 Hemi. Would it be safe just to order these NGK boots with the new springs? Because it sounds like a heck of a lot less money than replacing all the ignition coils.Coil boots.Keeps coming up as 2011,but they're the same coil boots up till now
2011 RAM 1500 5.7L V8 Spark Plug / Ignition Coil Boot | Shop Now at RockAuto
Ignition Parts and More for Your 2011 RAM 1500 at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.www.rockauto.com
Pull a couple coils ,pop the boots off and see how bad the corrosion is on the spring inside the boot,and the contact point under the spring in the coil tower first. If a couple look sketchy,then order all new boots/springs.Your truck will have the stupid resistors under the springs,and odds are the resistors will be the worst as far as corrosion goes.I have 16 NGK laser, iridium, spark plugs. I’m at 141,000 miles on a 2015 ram 1500 Hemi. Would it be safe just to order these NGK boots with the new springs? Because it sounds like a heck of a lot less money than replacing all the ignition coils.
Thanks for any clarification