Spark Plugs

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reddawg67

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Hemi 5.7
Just did the the sparkplug swap on my 2017 express with the 5.7 . Purchased the sparkplug tool from amazon made the job a whole lot easier well worth the 15 bucks . It was a anything bad but i bought the truck with around 30000 on it and wasnt sure when or if they had been done and its fixing o turn 97000. WOW what a difference in response and power . Oh the dealer quoted me 1200 just for plugs no thank you . I got my plugs from rock auto .WIN_20220620_13_59_46_Pro.jpg
 

Daniel Ortiz

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2017
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5.7 L Hemi V8
I also just did my 100,000 mile spark plug job. I splurged for the Mopar plugs, and I noticed an interesting instruction on the back of the box for tightening the plugs: they recommend finger tightening until firm contact, and then turning another 1/2 to 2/3 turn with a ratchet. This has the interesting effect of applying the same amount of twist, and therefore "stretch" of the plug whether it has anti-seize or not, since you're not relying on applied torque, but instead measured thread twist/pitch/stretch.

I had all the right bank plugs installed this way with a 1/2 turn (I happened to not use anti-seize on most of them except for cylinder 8 because those were buggers to put a wrench on and I didn't want problems at 200,000 miles), and only then did I start to worry I had done wrong by not confirming a torque value.

So I looked up the torque values for the iridium plugs and found 18.5-22 ft-lbs, so I figured 20 ft-lb would do it. I put a torque wrench set to 20 ft-lb on one of the cylinder 2 plugs and started to crank, and to my relief, it started to turn without clicking. That meant I hadn't over-torqued them using the 1/2 to 2/3 turn method. As that was what was on the box, I figured it was just as valid of a method. And if you happen to use anti-seize and are worried about torque reduction, this method side-steps that problem. It also side-steps the problem of not being able to fit a torque wrench in those hard-to-get rear plugs.

spark_plug_box.jpgspark_plug_part_no.jpgmopar_spark_plug_tightening.jpg
 

Wild one

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I also just did my 100,000 mile spark plug job. I splurged for the Mopar plugs, and I noticed an interesting instruction on the back of the box for tightening the plugs: they recommend finger tightening until firm contact, and then turning another 1/2 to 2/3 turn with a ratchet. This has the interesting effect of applying the same amount of twist, and therefore "stretch" of the plug whether it has anti-seize or not, since you're not relying on applied torque, but instead measured thread twist/pitch/stretch.

I had all the right bank plugs installed this way with a 1/2 turn (I happened to not use anti-seize on most of them except for cylinder 8 because those were buggers to put a wrench on and I didn't want problems at 200,000 miles), and only then did I start to worry I had done wrong by not confirming a torque value.

So I looked up the torque values for the iridium plugs and found 18.5-22 ft-lbs, so I figured 20 ft-lb would do it. I put a torque wrench set to 20 ft-lb on one of the cylinder 2 plugs and started to crank, and to my relief, it started to turn without clicking. That meant I hadn't over-torqued them using the 1/2 to 2/3 turn method. As that was what was on the box, I figured it was just as valid of a method. And if you happen to use anti-seize and are worried about torque reduction, this method side-steps that problem. It also side-steps the problem of not being able to fit a torque wrench in those hard-to-get rear plugs.

View attachment 550160View attachment 550162View attachment 550163
Did you check the springs inside the coil boots for corrosion Daniel.They're famous for developing rust/corrosion. You can rebuild the coils with new boots/springs from Rock Auto,if your springs are badly corroded.I use one of these little brushes in a Dremel to clean up the contact point under the springs in the coil towers.If the springs aren't to bad,i just wire wheel them clean using a bench grinder with a wire wheel,and then stretch the springs out roughly a 1/4" to 1/2".

 

Wild one

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Last edited:

Daniel Ortiz

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@Wild one now you tell me! Actually, when I was applying 3M silicone paste to the boots, I looked in the first one and I didn't notice anything I would say was badly corroded regarding the electrode. However, now I want to go inspect more closely. It's good to know they can be rebuilt, although cleaning sounds better. Do you find you have to do this at every spark-plug change? How do you remove the boots and access the spring?
 

Wild one

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@Wild one now you tell me! Actually, when I was applying 3M silicone paste to the boots, I looked in the first one and I didn't notice anything I would say was badly corroded regarding the electrode. However, now I want to go inspect more closely. It's good to know they can be rebuilt, although cleaning sounds better. Do you find you have to do this at every spark-plug change? How do you remove the boots and access the spring?
Sorry about that,i should of been quicker on the uptake,lol. The boots just pull off with a twist and a good tug,and then the springs just slide out of the boot.If it's something i haven't had the plugs out of before,or in quite awhile,i'll check the springs over,and usually clean them up ,then use one of the little dremel brushes to buzz the contact points in the coil towers a bit cleaner. If the contact points are badly corroded,i'll use a pick to scratch most of the corrosion off ,then hit them with the dremel brush.Good news is the coils are easy to pull and check over,lol
 

Wild one

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Daniel you're better off applying the silicone grease or di-electric grease to the bottom of the porcellin on the plug body,then to the inside of the boot.Ifyou put it inside the boot,it has a tendenancy to slide up the boot,and could cause an issue with insulating the top of the plug/bottom of the spring.It's not a big deal,just something to keep in mind for your next plug service
 

Daniel Ortiz

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@Wild one yeah I thought about that, so after I glooped it on, I scraped the big clumps out with a screw driver and then spread the remainder all around on the inside walls with my pinky so it wouldn't get caught between the electrode spring and the plug post. But, your way is better. Just wait until 200,000 miles rolls around: THE PERFECT SPARK PLUG CHANGE.
 

Wild one

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@Wild one yeah I thought about that, so after I glooped it on, I scraped the big clumps out with a screw driver and then spread the remainder all around on the inside walls with my pinky so it wouldn't get caught between the electrode spring and the plug post. But, your way is better. Just wait until 200,000 miles rolls around: THE PERFECT SPARK PLUG CHANGE.
Hey 20/20 hindsight is better then no hindsight,lol. When you get a few minutes,i'd pull a couple of the easy to get at coils,and pop the boots off and check the springs and contact points over for corrosion,if a coil on each bank looks good,odds are the rest will be good,but if they look a bit suspicious,then all will be suspicious,and should probably be cleaned up. It'll help your coils live longer if you do a bit of maintence on them every once inawhile
 

HangmanNY

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Coil boots.Keeps coming up as 2011,but they're the same coil boots up till now


I have 16 NGK laser, iridium, spark plugs. I’m at 141,000 miles on a 2015 ram 1500 Hemi. Would it be safe just to order these NGK boots with the new springs? Because it sounds like a heck of a lot less money than replacing all the ignition coils.

Thanks for any clarification
 

Wild one

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I have 16 NGK laser, iridium, spark plugs. I’m at 141,000 miles on a 2015 ram 1500 Hemi. Would it be safe just to order these NGK boots with the new springs? Because it sounds like a heck of a lot less money than replacing all the ignition coils.

Thanks for any clarification
Pull a couple coils ,pop the boots off and see how bad the corrosion is on the spring inside the boot,and the contact point under the spring in the coil tower first. If a couple look sketchy,then order all new boots/springs.Your truck will have the stupid resistors under the springs,and odds are the resistors will be the worst as far as corrosion goes.
I forget who it was that ordered new boots and springs from Rock Auto for their truck,but the boots they recieved had the longer springs and didn't come with the resistors,which personally is the way i go.
I usually pry the resistors out and throw them away,and order the boots for a 2013 Chysler 300 as i know they come with the longer springs,and no resistors.
If your coil contact point is in really rough shape,i use a small sharp pick to scratch the contact point as clean as i can get it,before hitting it with the dremel and small carbon brush.
I even stretch the new springs out a 1/4" to 1/2" as they put more pressure on the top of the plug and the contact point in the coil tower,not sure it's needed,but i'm a believer in a little more pressure on things as they usually make better contact to pass the electrical charge
 

HangmanNY

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I finally tackled the spark plugs on my 2015 RAM bighorn 5.7L hemi. And cleaned the throttle body. The throttle body wasn’t really dirty but cleaned it with “throttle body cleaner”. Used new felpro O-Ring”

I went way over with 141,000 miles on the original NGK Laser Iridium plugs. I put the same plugs in. Gapped them to .044 (was careful to not touch electrode).

Passenger side was straight forward. Just needed to unclip a couple of retainers (for hoses) to get at the rear two plugs and coil pack.

Drivers side was rough going.
Had to remove a support bracket nut on the oil dip stick (to move it out of the way) to clear the driver side front coil pack. The rear two coil packs and plugs were tough.

I bought that 5/8” Gear Wrench magnetic spark plug tool with the built in swivel extension. That tool is priceless.

Those plugs were tough getting out! They were stuck in real good. I read posts about anti seize (pros and cons).
Decided to put a thin amount on the middle area of the threads of the plugs. Read that the torque spec should be @ 18 ft.lbs (dry) Lowered the torque to @ 15 ft.lbs (partially wet).

Put new NGK ignition coils in just to be safe. The day ran long. Will start and run it tomorrow.
 

GTyankee

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Rock Auto ships to Australia, they are the best Company to deal with


Here is a Video, made by a guy down in Australia

He discovered a way to save on shipping costs :)


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You definitely want to Order NGK Spark Plugs they are the recommended spark plugs
NGK 92145 Laser Iridium; Pre-Set Gap: 0.044" Info Heart.png
Dual Plug; OE-Recommended Gap: 0.044"
$6.53 each USD
More Information for NGK 92145
{Alternate Inventory Numbers: LZFR5CI11}



By the way, these spark plugs,like most Ram truck spark plugs since about 2014
are 100,000 mile spark plugs

100,000 U.S. Miles = 160934.4 Kilometers

as mentioned above, the
5/8” Gear Wrench magnetic spark plug tool with the built in swivel extension
seems to be very popular with owners of the 5.7L engine
 
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