Steering issues/steering stabilizer.

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JordanM

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Im thinking about listing my truck for sale. But I'm having some issues with the steering and stabilizer. The dealer said he thinks the stabilizers are toasted. But he couldn't find the connection between that and why my steering wheel tilts left when driving straight. He also said he couldn't do anything since I don't have a wheel lock key for my wheels (do I need to buy one or do most other mechanics have a set)?
Any recommendations for a local mechanic that works on 4x4s in the IE California area where I can get this checked out at? Thanks for the help!
 

Lyle Longboat

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You should check your struts/inner tie rods and get an alignment. I have this issues for over a year and even with alignments, my steering wheel was still off. I changed the struts/shocks and it helped but wasn’t right straight. I ended up having a shop look at my tie rods as my dRivers Outer had a hole in it and also preform an alignment. They called me back soon after trying to get the toe right and couldn’t. The shop indicated that my inners were rusted and the bellows were done. I explained the rack and pin was changed over a year ago. They stated that the inners looked as though they were switched over as they were no good. Anyways they made the change and everything is right and tight. Steering wheel is right back to normal.
 

muddy12

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Im thinking about listing my truck for sale. But I'm having some issues with the steering and stabilizer. The dealer said he thinks the stabilizers are toasted. But he couldn't find the connection between that and why my steering wheel tilts left when driving straight. He also said he couldn't do anything since I don't have a wheel lock key for my wheels (do I need to buy one or do most other mechanics have a set)?
Any recommendations for a local mechanic that works on 4x4s in the IE California area where I can get this checked out at? Thanks for the help!

When you say “stabilizer”, are you talking about shocks/struts, or a steering stabilizer/damper?
Just FYI, 1500’s don’t have steering stabilizers. If your dealer is trying to sell you one, find a new shop.


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Joshua Collins

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Cant see it on mobile if there is anything in the signature for if this is a 1500 or 2500? From there advice can be given on how to proceed. If you have a 1500 find another dealer.

Wheel locks factory or aftermarket? Factory they can order you a new key and should have a master set at the dealership to remove them. If aftermarket the you have a few choices but they sell a socket at most parts stores that you hammer over the locking lug there able to remove them for replacement or Google till you find a similar style and order the key.
 

Burla

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Normally worn parts will cause more stuff then just wheel cocked, I'd do alignment first if you don't have any wobble or vibrations. I think tire places are better equipped for this as that is all they do.
 
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JordanM

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You should check your struts/inner tie rods and get an alignment. I have this issues for over a year and even with alignments, my steering wheel was still off. I changed the struts/shocks and it helped but wasn’t right straight. I ended up having a shop look at my tie rods as my dRivers Outer had a hole in it and also preform an alignment. They called me back soon after trying to get the toe right and couldn’t. The shop indicated that my inners were rusted and the bellows were done. I explained the rack and pin was changed over a year ago. They stated that the inners looked as though they were switched over as they were no good. Anyways they made the change and everything is right and tight. Steering wheel is right back to normal.

Okay. I'll mention this when I take it in.
Thanks!
 
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JordanM

JordanM

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When you say “stabilizer”, are you talking about shocks/struts, or a steering stabilizer/damper?
Just FYI, 1500’s don’t have steering stabilizers. If your dealer is trying to sell you one, find a new shop.


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Sorry I wasn't clear, I thought I had my truck as my profile picture.
It's a 2014 6.4L Mega.
I'm talking about the steering stabilizers. That's what I thought at first, and the dealer said that's what they thought, then they said nonsense about how they couldn't check it
 
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JordanM

JordanM

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Cant see it on mobile if there is anything in the signature for if this is a 1500 or 2500? From there advice can be given on how to proceed. If you have a 1500 find another dealer.

Wheel locks factory or aftermarket? Factory they can order you a new key and should have a master set at the dealership to remove them. If aftermarket the you have a few choices but they sell a socket at most parts stores that you hammer over the locking lug there able to remove them for replacement or Google till you find a similar style and order the key.

2500. Aftermarket Method Race rims. Didnt get a wheel lock key when I bought it and didn't even think about it when I got home. I looked at the lugs and they all look the same to me. Maybe I'm just overlooking it. ‍♂️
You think Method would sell a key?
The dealer said he couldn't really do anything without the key. Not sure if that's true or BS. I wanted my tired rotated and aligned and said it was impossible without the key.
 
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JordanM

JordanM

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Normally worn parts will cause more stuff then just wheel cocked, I'd do alignment first if you don't have any wobble or vibrations. I think tire places are better equipped for this as that is all they do.

The original issue that started this all was massive steering wheel wobbling at speeds above 40ish and almost always when I drove over a bump or train tracks. Always needed to pull over and stop for the wobbling to stop. I don't think it's the "death wobbles" and the dealer agreed. Said it was most likely the stabilizers. But I noticed that once the steering wheel started to tilt, the wobbles stopped. So now I'm concerned everything is just gonna fall apart when I'm driving. Which is why Im looking for a place to take my truck to.
I've tried looking into tire places, but most don't include stabilizers in their service descriptions. I should probably just start calling them.
Side note. The mechanic I took my old car and my wife's current car to doesn't have lift rated to lift my truck. (Roughly 7800 lbs.) ‍♂️
 

muddy12

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Sorry I wasn't clear, I thought I had my truck as my profile picture.
It's a 2014 6.4L Mega.
I'm talking about the steering stabilizers. That's what I thought at first, and the dealer said that's what they thought, then they said nonsense about how they couldn't check it

That's on me, I was on my phone, and couldn't see your signature.
 

muddy12

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The original issue that started this all was massive steering wheel wobbling at speeds above 40ish and almost always when I drove over a bump or train tracks. ................. ‍♂️

That sure sounds like "death wobble" to me. If it is death wobble, replacing the steering stabilizer is just a band aid fix. My guess would be that you have worn components in the front end. Easiest way that I've found to track down the worn part would be to have someone turn the steering wheel side to side, while you check for play in all of the joints in the front end. Pay close attention to the steering arm, drag link, tie rod, and track bar.
 

Gary2

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Every time you have the event it is wearing components that were not bad initially .have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth rapidly between about 10:00 and 2 while you lay under the front end and watch and feel every connection inyour front end. Used to be the first place it would start is the frame mounted end of the track bar. longer its let go the more components you will be replacing. Itf its started by hitting rough road or pot hole or something similar thats death wooble.
 

Joshua Collins

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Death wobble for sure. Alignment will help some but need the steering joints checked out, ball points, control arm bushings, i would get a adjustable track bar it it is lifted/leveled think i recall you saying it was. Emf sales some bushings that go on the steering column to take up a common area where slack is as well under the dash can do some googling on steering bushings and come up with them.

Alignment plays a big role on this as well along with any possible worn parts. I suggest looking up thuren suspension and looking under the tech section and going off his alignment specs. I ran them on the last 2500 i had with great success and plan on doing the same qhen i get my new to me inherited 3500 single wheel once i get the suspension stuff ordered for it.
 

huntergreen

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Doesn't like Death wobble to me. It it was a moving steering wheel wouldn't stop it. If I recall correctly, guys were having steering box issues. That is the first thing I would check. Your dealer should have done this.


OP , you might want to post this on the HD section.
 
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JordanM

JordanM

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Thanks for the help. I found a local tire shop who said they can take a look. Said they should be able to fix it if it is indeed the death wobbles.
One last thing, anyone have a estimate on cost? Worst case, in expecting it to be a few thousand dollars. 1500-2500. Am I thinking to low?
 
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JordanM

JordanM

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Just stopped by the tire shop. Gonna drop off my truck Friday morning to get it looked at. The service tech said there isn't much to look for. Said it could be related to the gearbox (first time I've heard of this issue before) or a tie rod like a few of you mentioned. Said hell he'll get me a quote once they get it looked at and will toss in an alignment for 70 bucks.
Anyone else ever have a death wobble caused by a gearbox issue?
 

Sandevino

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My transmission (gearbox) has never caused death wobble.

Maybe he’s referring to the steering gear?

In any event, proper part identification often leads to proper diagnosis.
 
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JordanM

JordanM

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Dropped it off this morning. He just called and said he took it for a drive and said he thinks it could be the tires themselves, as opposed to any type or steering components. Said they're starting to cup a little. ,Who knows, though. Said hes gonna toss it up on the lift and check all the components and rotate and balance the tires. Thinking that might solve it.
 
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