Sticky brakes when coming to a stop

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aintskeered

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Hello all, this is a very minor issue but figured maybe I can get some feedback and also a little discussion. Found nothing similar in a search of the forum.

I've had my 2018 Hemi for about a year now and always noticed when coming to a stop the brakes are real sticky. Also when letting off the brake to start moving again I can feel them "unstick" again. It's not that big of a deal and I can definitely live with it but they're much stickier than other vehicles I've driven recently (Silverado and F150 included).

I wonder if others have noticed this or if the previous owner had some cheaper pads put on. Maybe it's not a pad thing and needs a fluid flush and/or system clean or something.
 

Burla

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Start using a temp gun to make sure they arent getting hot, or any corner gets hotter then the others. Take it apart, maybe caliper piston is dirty, maybe pins stuck, taking brakes apart is a real easy DYI. Is fluid dirty? Check all 4 pads, see that both fronts are wearing equally and both backs are wearing equally. In Georgia you can get moisture in there, maybe brake flush.
 

Sherman Bird

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Remove the wheel after jacking up and supporting the vehicle safely.

Take a very bright flashlight and shine it on the edges of the brake pads where they meet the steel backing. Look for an orange-ish discoloration in the pads at those points.
Presence of this coloration means that the resin of the brake material has overheated and boiled out. This would require new pads and rotors.
 

Jeepwalker

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Hmmmm...would that be a sign of an ABS controller (valves) going flaky? Some guys on this forum have more experience with that than me...so I'll let them give you their thoughts....
 

mdc1990zr1

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Hello all, this is a very minor issue but figured maybe I can get some feedback and also a little discussion. Found nothing similar in a search of the forum.

I've had my 2018 Hemi for about a year now and always noticed when coming to a stop the brakes are real sticky. Also when letting off the brake to start moving again I can feel them "unstick" again. It's not that big of a deal and I can definitely live with it but they're much stickier than other vehicles I've driven recently (Silverado and F150 included).

I wonder if others have noticed this or if the previous owner had some cheaper pads put on. Maybe it's not a pad thing and needs a fluid flush and/or system clean or something.
I have a small fleet of 2500 and 3500 work trucks fully loaded. I had a local shop put Napa ceramics on the first pad change at 30K. I usually insist on OEM or Wagner severe duty semi-metallic for the weight I haul. I chased sticking brakes for the longest time. Replaced calipers, hoses, rotors and pads again till I stepped in and handed them the Wagner severe duty semi-met pads. Guess what? No more problems for the next 100K and still going. You just can't put ceramic where you need semi-metallic. I'm sure there are other scenarios also, but you usually can't go wrong with what OEM recommended. I don't care what the box says.
 
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Shawn Burns

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sounds like the calipers need some love. I'll bet the slide pins are not permitting the caliper to retract after a stop. Many brake pad companies are including hardware in the box for this reason.

I am going a step further by removing the pistons and replacing seals. I found one of the seals torn while replacing ball joints.
 

Sherman Bird

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I have a small fleet of 2500 and 3500 work trucks fully loaded. I had a local shop put Napa ceramics on the first pad change at 30K. I usually insist on OEM or Wagner severe duty semi-metallic for the weight I haul. I chased sticking brakes for the longest time. Replaced calipers, hoses, rotors and pads again till I stepped in and handed them the Wagner severe duty semi-met pads. Guess what? No more problems for the next 100K and still going. You just can't put ceramic where you need semi-metallic. I'm sure there are other scenarios also, but you usually can't go wrong with what OEM recommended. I don't care what the box says.
I'm a believer in the fact that the manufacturers of the brakes done to brand engineering specs have many many millions of R&D money to back them up. Aftermarket parts, while we would REALLY like to believe "meet or exceed" OE are simply not.

But, the gorilla in the room is money, eh?
 

mdc1990zr1

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I'm a believer in the fact that the manufacturers of the brakes done to brand engineering specs have many many millions of R&D money to back them up. Aftermarket parts, while we would REALLY like to believe "meet or exceed" OE are simply not.

But, the gorilla in the room is money, eh?
If it aint p.u.s.s.e.y, its money.
 

Sherman Bird

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If it aint p.u.s.s.e.y, its money.
You ever notice that an original serpentine belt will go 100,000 miles or more? Try getting that many miles from an aftermarket belt. Ditto for brakes and other service or maintenance items.
 

mdc1990zr1

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You ever notice that an original serpentine belt will go 100,000 miles or more? Try getting that many miles from an aftermarket belt. Ditto for brakes and other service or maintenance items.
OEM belts definitely still look good at 100K. And when I do change them, another OEM goes on. Not gold or advantage, original OEM.
 

Marshall

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My truck has hill hold, it holds the brakes on till you hit the gas, I THINK that's how it works.
Wonder if you are having a bit of a delay in the release, and rusty pins.
Just a thought.
 
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