Successfully did a DPF regen on 2022 with 6.7 diesel. Wahoo!

[DLD22]

Hi Everyone,
I got a lot of help from this forum - thank you all - so I've created an account and am posting this to give back. My vehicle is a 2022 RAM 2500 with the 6.7 Cummins Diesel.
Like everyone who owns this truck, I seemed to get the dreaded "exhaust system regenerating, continue driving" message just as I pull into the parking lot at work. Now I can ignore it and trigger a regen at will. I cannot promise this procedure will work on any other truck, so you may still have to do some research if your model is different from mine.

First, I purchased the following three items:
- An Android tablet. I bought a Lenovo M9 at the local Best Buy for $99. I'm an I-Phone/Mac guy and so I bought the cheapest Android tablet I could.
- OBD LinkMX+. This little module right here: https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/
- ECRI Security Gateway Module Bypass for 2018+ Ram etc. This one: https://ecri.app/products/ecri-secu...YZGZf6YU95LyqgfPR7qVVEmbAlJ9CV9UCTN6N7I42QNEF.

You need to download two apps onto your tablet or whatever you are using.
OBDLink. It was free. I did register with my email.
AlfaOBD. Cost $49.

First thing I did was install the ECRI module. Ignore any instructions that have you on your back clawing around above the pedals - you'll never reach it. I wasted an hour doing that. It's hidden behind the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel. However, once I found the following two videos on YouTube, I was able to access it and install the bypass module in less than 15 minutes.
First, you need to remove the bezel (display panel) of the radio. It's easy and you don't need to disconnect any wires, just pull it out a couple inches:

2019+ 5th Generation Ram 2500 / 3500 Stereo / Head Unit Removal (2019+) | AnthonyJ350

In this video we show you how to easily remove the radio out of a Heavy Duty Ram 2500 / 3500.#Ram #RadioRemoval #HeavyDutySubscribe for more automotive tips!...

www.youtube.com

Next, remove the display cluster above the steering wheel. Here is the procedure:

New Body Ram Heavy Duty Gateway Bypass Installation

Here's how to get to the Security Gateway to install our bypass module.This is a requirement for some of our products. Remember that this is only for the NEW...

www.youtube.com

You will find the security gateway module in the back. It was a tight squeeze for my big hand - through the steering wheel and into the compartment there - but I was able to unplug the two cables and plug them into the ECRI bypass module.
Then you put everything back together. I am leaving the bypass in there indefinitely since I'm beyond warranty.

Here's the procedure for doing the Regen:
First, get the truck warm. I've read coolant temp should be at least 140. I drove it until it was in it's normal range, in the 180s.
Park somewhere you can run it for a while and not attract attention. I did this in my driveway.
Next, drop the spare tire. Under the passenger seat you'll find the tools you need, and the owner's manual has good instructions. You assemble a little wrench, stick it through a hole next to the rear license plate, and slowly lower the tire to the ground. I dragged it all the way out from under the truck but I think that was overkill - I imagine it will be fine sitting on the ground. You do this because the pipes down there get super hot and I guess could melt the rubber.
Then, plug in the OBD MX+ module. You'll find your truck's OBD port by the pedals and it's super easy to access.
Turn the truck on if you turned it off.
Find the little button on the OBD MX+ and push it to initiate a bluetooth connection.
Make sure bluetooth is on, on your table or whatever you have the apps on.
Go into OBDLink app and connect it to the OBD MX+. I didn't use the OBDLink for anything other than this, but it's got stuff you can play with.
Go into AlfaOBD. Find the bluetooth icon (key on the lower right for me) and connect it to OBDLink. Now your AlfaOBD software is running through OBDLink and connecting to the MX+ device, so AlfaOBD can communicate with your your truck.
Click on the icon that has a truck with its hood up (lower right again). Select your vehicle (Ram), connect to the engine (Cummins Diesel 6.7), and then scroll down to find "PM Sensor Regeneration". Select this.
I had to play around a few times to make sure everything was connected and working, bluetooth-wise, but then I was able to click "Start" and it started.
You'll know it's working when the engine speeds up seemingly on its own. Mine settled at about 1,000 RPM. I went inside and did emails until after about 35 minutes I heard the engine slow down. The procedure had completed.
The DPF on the instrument gauge had dropped from about 46% to zero. ZERO, my dudes. Victory was at hand.
I disconnected everything, hoisted the spare tire back up, and put the truck in the garage.
Since I bought a tablet just for this, I'm leaving it and the OBD MX+ in the truck. So I can now trigger a regen when it's convenient for me. I live 2 hours from the nearest dealer so this is HUGE.

I hope I've written everything down clearly and haven't forgotten or missed any steps. Please chime in with corrections or additions.

DLD22

 

[Billet Bee]

Hi Everyone,
I got a lot of help from this forum - thank you all - so I've created an account and am posting this to give back. My vehicle is a 2022 RAM 2500 with the 6.7 Cummins Diesel.
Like everyone who owns this truck, I seemed to get the dreaded "exhaust system regenerating, continue driving" message just as I pull into the parking lot at work. Now I can ignore it and trigger a regen at will. I cannot promise this procedure will work on any other truck, so you may still have to do some research if your model is different from mine.

First, I purchased the following three items:
- An Android tablet. I bought a Lenovo M9 at the local Best Buy for $99. I'm an I-Phone/Mac guy and so I bought the cheapest Android tablet I could.
- OBD LinkMX+. This little module right here: https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/
- ECRI Security Gateway Module Bypass for 2018+ Ram etc. This one: https://ecri.app/products/ecri-secu...YZGZf6YU95LyqgfPR7qVVEmbAlJ9CV9UCTN6N7I42QNEF.

You need to download two apps onto your tablet or whatever you are using.
OBDLink. It was free. I did register with my email.
AlfaOBD. Cost $49.

First thing I did was install the ECRI module. Ignore any instructions that have you on your back clawing around above the pedals - you'll never reach it. I wasted an hour doing that. It's hidden behind the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel. However, once I found the following two videos on YouTube, I was able to access it and install the bypass module in less than 15 minutes.
First, you need to remove the bezel (display panel) of the radio. It's easy and you don't need to disconnect any wires, just pull it out a couple inches:

2019+ 5th Generation Ram 2500 / 3500 Stereo / Head Unit Removal (2019+) | AnthonyJ350

In this video we show you how to easily remove the radio out of a Heavy Duty Ram 2500 / 3500.#Ram #RadioRemoval #HeavyDutySubscribe for more automotive tips!...

www.youtube.com

Next, remove the display cluster above the steering wheel. Here is the procedure:

New Body Ram Heavy Duty Gateway Bypass Installation

Here's how to get to the Security Gateway to install our bypass module.This is a requirement for some of our products. Remember that this is only for the NEW...

www.youtube.com

You will find the security gateway module in the back. It was a tight squeeze for my big hand - through the steering wheel and into the compartment there - but I was able to unplug the two cables and plug them into the ECRI bypass module.
Then you put everything back together. I am leaving the bypass in there indefinitely since I'm beyond warranty.

Here's the procedure for doing the Regen:
First, get the truck warm. I've read coolant temp should be at least 140. I drove it until it was in it's normal range, in the 180s.
Park somewhere you can run it for a while and not attract attention. I did this in my driveway.
Next, drop the spare tire. Under the passenger seat you'll find the tools you need, and the owner's manual has good instructions. You assemble a little wrench, stick it through a hole next to the rear license plate, and slowly lower the tire to the ground. I dragged it all the way out from under the truck but I think that was overkill - I imagine it will be fine sitting on the ground. You do this because the pipes down there get super hot and I guess could melt the rubber.
Then, plug in the OBD MX+ module. You'll find your truck's OBD port by the pedals and it's super easy to access.
Turn the truck on if you turned it off.
Find the little button on the OBD MX+ and push it to initiate a bluetooth connection.
Make sure bluetooth is on, on your table or whatever you have the apps on.
Go into OBDLink app and connect it to the OBD MX+. I didn't use the OBDLink for anything other than this, but it's got stuff you can play with.
Go into AlfaOBD. Find the bluetooth icon (key on the lower right for me) and connect it to OBDLink. Now your AlfaOBD software is running through OBDLink and connecting to the MX+ device, so AlfaOBD can communicate with your your truck.
Click on the icon that has a truck with its hood up (lower right again). Select your vehicle (Ram), connect to the engine (Cummins Diesel 6.7), and then scroll down to find "PM Sensor Regeneration". Select this.
I had to play around a few times to make sure everything was connected and working, bluetooth-wise, but then I was able to click "Start" and it started.
You'll know it's working when the engine speeds up seemingly on its own. Mine settled at about 1,000 RPM. I went inside and did emails until after about 35 minutes I heard the engine slow down. The procedure had completed.
The DPF on the instrument gauge had dropped from about 46% to zero. ZERO, my dudes. Victory was at hand.
I disconnected everything, hoisted the spare tire back up, and put the truck in the garage.
Since I bought a tablet just for this, I'm leaving it and the OBD MX+ in the truck. So I can now trigger a regen when it's convenient for me. I live 2 hours from the nearest dealer so this is HUGE.

I hope I've written everything down clearly and haven't forgotten or missed any steps. Please chime in with corrections or additions.

DLD22

Great explanation & write up, it will be interesting to hear from others if dropping the spare is even necessary since it has a shroud surrounding it

 

[06 Dodge]

Hi Everyone,
I got a lot of help from this forum - thank you all - so I've created an account and am posting this to give back. My vehicle is a 2022 RAM 2500 with the 6.7 Cummins Diesel.
Like everyone who owns this truck, I seemed to get the dreaded "exhaust system regenerating, continue driving" message just as I pull into the parking lot at work. Now I can ignore it and trigger a regen at will. I cannot promise this procedure will work on any other truck, so you may still have to do some research if your model is different from mine.

First, I purchased the following three items:
- An Android tablet. I bought a Lenovo M9 at the local Best Buy for $99. I'm an I-Phone/Mac guy and so I bought the cheapest Android tablet I could.
- OBD LinkMX+. This little module right here: https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/
- ECRI Security Gateway Module Bypass for 2018+ Ram etc. This one: https://ecri.app/products/ecri-secu...YZGZf6YU95LyqgfPR7qVVEmbAlJ9CV9UCTN6N7I42QNEF.

You need to download two apps onto your tablet or whatever you are using.
OBDLink. It was free. I did register with my email.
AlfaOBD. Cost $49.

First thing I did was install the ECRI module. Ignore any instructions that have you on your back clawing around above the pedals - you'll never reach it. I wasted an hour doing that. It's hidden behind the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel. However, once I found the following two videos on YouTube, I was able to access it and install the bypass module in less than 15 minutes.
First, you need to remove the bezel (display panel) of the radio. It's easy and you don't need to disconnect any wires, just pull it out a couple inches:

2019+ 5th Generation Ram 2500 / 3500 Stereo / Head Unit Removal (2019+) | AnthonyJ350

In this video we show you how to easily remove the radio out of a Heavy Duty Ram 2500 / 3500.#Ram #RadioRemoval #HeavyDutySubscribe for more automotive tips!...

www.youtube.com

Next, remove the display cluster above the steering wheel. Here is the procedure:

New Body Ram Heavy Duty Gateway Bypass Installation

Here's how to get to the Security Gateway to install our bypass module.This is a requirement for some of our products. Remember that this is only for the NEW...

www.youtube.com

You will find the security gateway module in the back. It was a tight squeeze for my big hand - through the steering wheel and into the compartment there - but I was able to unplug the two cables and plug them into the ECRI bypass module.
Then you put everything back together. I am leaving the bypass in there indefinitely since I'm beyond warranty.

Here's the procedure for doing the Regen:
First, get the truck warm. I've read coolant temp should be at least 140. I drove it until it was in it's normal range, in the 180s.
Park somewhere you can run it for a while and not attract attention. I did this in my driveway.
Next, drop the spare tire. Under the passenger seat you'll find the tools you need, and the owner's manual has good instructions. You assemble a little wrench, stick it through a hole next to the rear license plate, and slowly lower the tire to the ground. I dragged it all the way out from under the truck but I think that was overkill - I imagine it will be fine sitting on the ground. You do this because the pipes down there get super hot and I guess could melt the rubber.
Then, plug in the OBD MX+ module. You'll find your truck's OBD port by the pedals and it's super easy to access.
Turn the truck on if you turned it off.
Find the little button on the OBD MX+ and push it to initiate a bluetooth connection.
Make sure bluetooth is on, on your table or whatever you have the apps on.
Go into OBDLink app and connect it to the OBD MX+. I didn't use the OBDLink for anything other than this, but it's got stuff you can play with.
Go into AlfaOBD. Find the bluetooth icon (key on the lower right for me) and connect it to OBDLink. Now your AlfaOBD software is running through OBDLink and connecting to the MX+ device, so AlfaOBD can communicate with your your truck.
Click on the icon that has a truck with its hood up (lower right again). Select your vehicle (Ram), connect to the engine (Cummins Diesel 6.7), and then scroll down to find "PM Sensor Regeneration". Select this.
I had to play around a few times to make sure everything was connected and working, bluetooth-wise, but then I was able to click "Start" and it started.
You'll know it's working when the engine speeds up seemingly on its own. Mine settled at about 1,000 RPM. I went inside and did emails until after about 35 minutes I heard the engine slow down. The procedure had completed.
The DPF on the instrument gauge had dropped from about 46% to zero. ZERO, my dudes. Victory was at hand.
I disconnected everything, hoisted the spare tire back up, and put the truck in the garage.
Since I bought a tablet just for this, I'm leaving it and the OBD MX+ in the truck. So I can now trigger a regen when it's convenient for me. I live 2 hours from the nearest dealer so this is HUGE.

I hope I've written everything down clearly and haven't forgotten or missed any steps. Please chime in with corrections or additions.

DLD22

Ya may want to try out Archoil 6400 & 6500d fuel additives its helped a lot of 2022 owners including me

 

[jejb]

The procedure had completed.
The DPF on the instrument gauge had dropped from about 46% to zero. ZERO, my dudes. Victory was at hand.

Thanks for the great write up. But what did your gauge drop to after a normal regen?

On my '22, it always goes back to zero after a regen. But I usually only get the auto regens where you have to be watching the DEF gauge to see happen, not the "keep driving" message. I did get the "keep driving" regen once, but that was after I'd shut the truck off during an auto regen. Without exception, the gauge goes to zero after a regen.

 

[DLD22]

Thanks for the great write up. But what did your gauge drop to after a normal regen?

On my '22, it always goes back to zero after a regen. But I usually only get the auto regens where you have to be watching the DEF gauge to see happen, not the "keep driving" message. I did get the "keep driving" regen once, but that was after I'd shut the truck off during an auto regen. Without exception, the gauge goes to zero after a regen.

The passive/normal regen always resets my DPF to zero as well. The benefit here is being able to do this reset at will, when it's convenient for me, versus being commanded by the truck to keep driving when it's really inconvenient. I often have 3-4 days in a row when I really can't take an hour to go drive to the highway and spend 40 minutes at 70mph. And then I'll get the "see dealer or I'll shut you down to 5 mph" message from the truck and I have to take time off work and make a 4 hour round-trip to the dealer for them to perform a stationery regen. Now I can do that stationery regen myself in my driveway at night. I hope that makes sense!

 

[mtnrider]

Great explanation & write up, it will be interesting to hear from others if dropping the spare is even necessary since it has a shroud surrounding it

I have run one before and I can tell you it gets Extremely hot. I would drop it just in case. I can also tell you if you walk by the exhaust output even at several feet away it will burn the hair off your legs....


.

 

[nlambert182]

I've told the story before, but back when I worked for a Navistar/International dealer the CE-300 school bus exhaust pipe used to run straight out the back bumper. Stopped by the bus shop one day to check in on the guys and the FD was there hosing off a Honda Civic that's hood was on fire. A tech parked behind a bus while it was in active regen. It literally melted the paint to the point of fire.


Exhaust temps during a regen can be over 1,200 degrees. I would drop the tire myself.

 

[stevenP]

I have the exact same truck. I have only seen it regen one time since owning it (4k miles). And of course thats when I started driving it as a DD, when my other vehicle was down for a week or so. Since I use to tow a heavy trailer, it just doesnt seem to need to regen when running it hard.
I guess the trouble people have with the diesels is, that it starts to regen too often.

 

[nlambert182]

If you don't run them hard, they'll need more active regens. They all do passive regens when you're driving, you just don't know it.

 

[Grams]

Thanks DLD for posting this.

I am so NEW to the Cummins…i”m a bit puzzled over all this. I never wanted a Cummins-powered truck…but was caught out of town with my former (gasser-Ram) truck wrecked… and bought what the KY dealership had on the lot…to bring my Airstream back home. I was so “out of it” …that I forgot I never wanted to own a diesel vehicle (other than the construction and farm equipt I already own)….and I knee- j-erked and bought this sweet 2500 Limited.

DAMN! It pulls! Very NICE!

Then…. following friends advice… I visited the various Ram/Cummins Forums…and am Horrified at all the “problems” and “troubles” and the “whiners” who complain “Woe is Me…my Cummins is a disaster” stories….

Now, It just so happens….(I actually am the creator and moderator of an online Miantenance and Discussion Forum…aviation, not automotive)….. I forgot that many (or perhaps most) of the Forums-participants are those who have problems…and are not the people who are happy owners and have little need to seek online help. So the discussion forums (such as this and others) are not necessarily good places to guage whether or not a product is a good and reliable one or not.

I’m NOT happy to see all the additional maintenance my new diesel truck is going to have (in comparison to the relative simple and rare maintenance my gasser req’d over the 200K+ miles I placed on it with nothimg more than oil changes, batteries, brakes, and tires)… this truck is clearly going to cost me Much MORE than my little gas RAM…. But …IF…it is reliable and trustworthy and Fun to drive….perhaps it’ll be sufficiently enjoyable to overcome those deficiencies.

Here’s Hoping.

 

[06 Dodge]

Thanks DLD for posting this.

I am so NEW to the Cummins…i”m a bit puzzled over all this. I never wanted a Cummins-powered truck…but was caught out of town with my former (gasser-Ram) truck wrecked… and bought what the KY dealership had on the lot…to bring my Airstream back home. I was so “out of it” …that I forgot I never wanted to own a diesel vehicle (other than the construction and farm equipt I already own)….and I knee- j-erked and bought this sweet 2500 Limited.

DAMN! It pulls! Very NICE!

Then…. following friends advice… I visited the various Ram/Cummins Forums…and am Horrified at all the “problems” and “troubles” and the “whiners” who complain “Woe is Me…my Cummins is a disaster” stories….

Now, It just so happens….(I actually am the creator and moderator of an online Miantenance and Discussion Forum…aviation, not automotive)….. I forgot that many (or perhaps most) of the Forums-participants are those who have problems…and are not the people who are happy owners and have little need to seek online help. So the discussion forums (such as this and others) are not necessarily good places to guage whether or not a product is a good and reliable one or not.

I’m NOT happy to see all the additional maintenance my new diesel truck is going to have (in comparison to the relative simple and rare maintenance my gasser req’d over the 200K+ miles I placed on it with nothimg more than oil changes, batteries, brakes, and tires)… this truck is clearly going to cost me Much MORE than my little gas RAM…. But …IF…it is reliable and trustworthy and Fun to drive….perhaps it’ll be sufficiently enjoyable to overcome those deficiencies.

Here’s Hoping.

A lot of the problems you read about sounds like they maybe late 2022 an early 2023 with 2022 having the most problems with the regen & DPF problems as for extra cost compared to a Hemi its not that much more for what you get from the CTD and it holds a higher resale value compared to a truck with a Hemi at 200K

 

[nlambert182]

Thanks DLD for posting this.

I am so NEW to the Cummins…i”m a bit puzzled over all this. I never wanted a Cummins-powered truck…but was caught out of town with my former (gasser-Ram) truck wrecked… and bought what the KY dealership had on the lot…to bring my Airstream back home. I was so “out of it” …that I forgot I never wanted to own a diesel vehicle (other than the construction and farm equipt I already own)….and I knee- j-erked and bought this sweet 2500 Limited.

DAMN! It pulls! Very NICE!

Then…. following friends advice… I visited the various Ram/Cummins Forums…and am Horrified at all the “problems” and “troubles” and the “whiners” who complain “Woe is Me…my Cummins is a disaster” stories….

Now, It just so happens….(I actually am the creator and moderator of an online Miantenance and Discussion Forum…aviation, not automotive)….. I forgot that many (or perhaps most) of the Forums-participants are those who have problems…and are not the people who are happy owners and have little need to seek online help. So the discussion forums (such as this and others) are not necessarily good places to guage whether or not a product is a good and reliable one or not.

I’m NOT happy to see all the additional maintenance my new diesel truck is going to have (in comparison to the relative simple and rare maintenance my gasser req’d over the 200K+ miles I placed on it with nothimg more than oil changes, batteries, brakes, and tires)… this truck is clearly going to cost me Much MORE than my little gas RAM…. But …IF…it is reliable and trustworthy and Fun to drive….perhaps it’ll be sufficiently enjoyable to overcome those deficiencies.

Here’s Hoping.

It's actually not as expensive as you might think. I've broken this out into great detail in the past and have done extensive studies using excel spreadsheets that I keep for maintenance on all my vehicles. I have logs dating back from 2009 and up.

For routine maintenance, it is absolutely a wash for me. Without too much detail:

- Oil changes may be slightly more, but they're half as frequent. (15k interval on diesel vs 7,500k interval on the gasser)

- Fuel filters every 30k miles, but no spark plugs, coil packs/wires, etc... Extrapolating over the course of 100k miles
the cost of replacing OEM fuel filters on the diesel is roughly $405 ($135 ea set). Cost of 16 OEM spark plugs and 8 coils is $735.

Everything else's cost (brakes, belts, hoses, trans fluid change, tires, etc..) are pretty much equal.

As an aside, my wife's Nissan Armada oil change is $148. My last oil change using OEM parts was $152.
Also, my wife's Armada requires premium fuel at about $0.40/gal more than diesel. On top of that, she gets 18 mpg across the board. Pre-deletes, I was getting 18.5 city, 22.5 hwy. Now, I am at 20mpg city/25 mpg highway (unloaded).

The only thing that's more expensive and most likely to need repair on the 6.7 is the emissions system. Aside from that, they'll run hundreds of thousands of miles with little issue.

 

[Grams]

It's actually not as expensive as you might think. I've broken this out into great detail in the past and have done extensive studies using excel spreadsheets that I keep for maintenance on all my vehicles. I have logs dating back from 2009 and up.

For routine maintenance, it is absolutely a wash for me. Without too much detail:

- Oil changes may be slightly more, but they're half as frequent. (15k interval on diesel vs 7,500k interval on the gasser)

- Fuel filters every 30k miles, but no spark plugs, coil packs/wires, etc... Extrapolating over the course of 100k miles
the cost of replacing OEM fuel filters on the diesel is roughly $405 ($135 ea set). Cost of 16 OEM spark plugs and 8 coils is $735.

Everything else's cost (brakes, belts, hoses, trans fluid change, tires, etc..) are pretty much equal.

As an aside, my wife's Nissan Armada oil change is $148. My last oil change using OEM parts was $152.
Also, my wife's Armada requires premium fuel at about $0.40/gal more than diesel. On top of that, she gets 18 mpg across the board. Pre-deletes, I was getting 18.5 city, 22.5 hwy. Now, I am at 20mpg city/25 mpg highway (unloaded).

The only thing that's more expensive and most likely to need repair on the 6.7 is the emissions system. Aside from that, they'll run hundreds of thousands of miles with little issue.

Good points… I’ve never had to replace a newer ignition coil…but you’re correct, the last spark plug change on my previous Ram was $300 and I did the work myself. That truck had 205K miles on it and no other extraordinary expenses. (WalMart “Pit Stop” oil change every 5K miles was only $25 ea.)

The DPF will be expensive even if it lasts as long as typically expected. No gasser has that problem. And the EGR-cooler cleaning or failure is not something I look fwd to.

But your comments are worthwhile and I’ll try to avoid needless worry and wait to see how reliable this thing is.

 

[nlambert182]

The EGR cleaning is snake oil..... just saying.

 

[DLD22]

I'll admit I was super naive when I bought my diesel. I'd never owned one before. I love the way it pulls my Airstream, but as others say it is the wrong vehicle for a daily driver around town. I learned all this after buying it. It's my own fault and I've no one to blame for my DPF frustrations but myself. I like the truck otherwise though, so learning to manage the emissions requirements may help me hang on to it. It's a beast on a long mountain trip with the trailer - exactly the sort of thing it's designed for.

 

[nlambert182]

I've been daily driving a diesel for over 10 years. I went back to a 1500 for less than a year and sold it to go back to diesel. Emissions are definitely the achilles heel, but just take it out ever so often (if you're not towing a lot), get it on the interstate, and give it the beans. Work the engine so that it runs through the regens and it should last quite a while.

 

[Longhorn1500]

Please excuse my ignorance, relatively new to CTDs. What is the difference between active and passive regens? On my '19, it has gone through three or so regens in the year I have owned it (I mostly use it for towing my travel trailer). If watching the DPF screen, it tells me when it is doing a regen, I assume this is what's called a "passive" regen (?).

 

[nlambert182]

Passive regens occur naturally when the exhaust temps are high enough to naturally begin burning off soot. Active regens happen when the computer determines they are necessary and will then inject fuel into the nox canister to ramp up exhaust temps to burn everything off. You'll get a message on the dash during an active regen telling you to keep driving. Typically happens if the truck isn't driven under load enough for passive regens to take care of it.

If you're towing a TT its likely that it's doing a passive regen while you're under load.

 

[jejb]

Passive regens occur naturally when the exhaust temps are high enough to naturally begin burning off soot. Active regens happen when the computer determines they are necessary and will then inject fuel into the nox canister to ramp up exhaust temps to burn everything off. You'll get a message on the dash during an active regen telling you to keep driving. Typically happens if the truck isn't driven under load enough for passive regens to take care of it.

If you're towing a TT its likely that it's doing a passive regen while you're under load.

There's one in between those two though. As the Longhorn1500 says, if you watch the DEF gauge, you will see a message saying the "automatic exhaust system regen in progress". It does not say "keep driving" nor do you see that message on the EVIC (unless you have the DEF gauge up). So it seems there are passive, auto and active regens.

 

[David Oakes]

There's one in between those two though. As the Longhorn1500 says, if you watch the DEF gauge, you will see a message saying the "automatic exhaust system regen in progress". It does not say "keep driving" nor do you see that message on the EVIC (unless you have the DEF gauge up). So it seems there are passive, auto and active regens.

Umm, that is the passive regen.

There 3 types of regen really, passive, passive once you stop too often interrupting the regen when it tells you to keep driving, and stationary.