Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 239 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 328 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 404 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 162 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 1,003 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 665 23.7%

  • Total voters
    2,801

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ramffml

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If it happened the first time I used Mobil 1 FS 0W40, then I'd would agree. But this happened on all 3 times that I used it. Its only for 2 -3 seconds on the initial start. Completely smooth and silent the rest of the time. All the times, the oil change procedure was the same - filled the new filter with some of the new oil and then put it in.I've got nothing against Mobil. If I have to, I would use it. I just didn't like that ticking even if it was just for a couple of seconds. As someone who faced the dreaded tick, I'm just not ready to hear my engine ticking again, at any point. Even if its nothing to be concerned about.

The ticking never occured during the initial start on an oil change with Liquimoly Molygen, Redline and even the Castrol Magnatec. All of those were 5w30. Hence I thought it had something to do with the 0W. Now based on @Motoman501's comment, maybe its got something to do with the oil add pack.

I'm going to use that alternative initial start procedure after an oil change to check and see if that helps. Maybe get some Mobil 1 and try it that way. If it works, that will be procedure I use from now on.

What I'm suggesting, is that correlation is not equal to causation. What would be the scientific explanation for why only one oil brand, which is in the pan and not even in the engine internals, would make it tick for a few seconds?

The more probable reason it ticks is because there is no lubrication. That's why the ticking stops within a few seconds once the mobil 1 is actually IN your engine and being pumped through it and the pressure comes up past 20-ish PSI.

I can't say I'm an expert in this field, but these hemis use hydraulic lifters and if they drain out (like during an oil change) then it completely makes sense to me that we would hear them ticking for a few seconds until the pressure builds.

It's not the oil choice, its the fact that you completely removed oil from the engine and now you need a few seconds of engine runtime to build pressure and put that fluid back.
 

knightjp

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The more probable reason it ticks is because there is no lubrication. That's why the ticking stops within a few seconds once the mobil 1 is actually IN your engine and being pumped through it and the pressure comes up past 20-ish PSI.

I can't say I'm an expert in this field, but these hemis use hydraulic lifters and if they drain out (like during an oil change) then it completely makes sense to me that we would hear them ticking for a few seconds until the pressure builds.
This is my thought as well. However doesn't explain why this doesn't happen when I use the other oils like Redline and Liquimoly.
Also doesn't the oil drain down into the sump after you switch the engine off? So if that is the case, it should tick on every start. But it doesn't. Only just after an oil change and that too only when I use Mobil 1 FS 0w40.
@ramffml Honestly, I'd say that you understand all of this better than I do. I can only tell you what happened. The cause, your guess is as good as mine.
 

Yardbird

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The main cause for one lifter ticking, is when that lifter is prone to leak down, and the engine just happens to stop in a position where that particular lifter has a valve depressed, and leaks down.

Ticking can occur for several seconds to several minutes in that case. If yours is lots of different lifters ticking, then usually that is from letting the oil pan sit empty for long enough for the oil to drain back out of the engine internals.

I always pre fill oil filters on anything that has an oil filter. Then I pre-prime with the starter, if it's by holding the throttle down in newer vehicles, or removing the coil wire in older ones.

I also prefill my lawn mower oil filters, and even pull the plug wires off on the one I have now with a filter that spins on with the filter opening pointing down.
 

Curmudgeon

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Tried filling the oil filter, felt like I spilled more than it held when installing

Don't know if this will help, but when I prime a filter I fill it pretty quick just to get the center column filled, then watch the level drop as the oil works it's way through the media. This often drops the level to below 1/2 full. I will usually bring the level back up to about 3/4 full but no more, just to prevent the exact spill you are seeing.
Seems to work well.
 

ramffml

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This is my thought as well. However doesn't explain why this doesn't happen when I use the other oils like Redline and Liquimoly.
Also doesn't the oil drain down into the sump after you switch the engine off? So if that is the case, it should tick on every start. But it doesn't. Only just after an oil change and that too only when I use Mobil 1 FS 0w40.
@ramffml Honestly, I'd say that you understand all of this better than I do. I can only tell you what happened. The cause, your guess is as good as mine.

When you pull the filter off the ADBV is no longer there to prevent oil from draining down. I'm not denying you noticed what you noticed, just saying that's its not saying what you're suggesting as this kind of thing requires many multiple tests to prove without a doubt that it isn't coincidental.

Hearing a startup rattle is indeed a common complaint, not just after an oil change. I can force my truck to do it every time I want, I just have to follow a certain set of criteria and I can trigger it to rattle on the next start. And oil filter and oil brand makes no difference there.

Lets put it this way: hearing a rattle after an oil change is not something just you experience, and its been reported on a variety of different oils.
 

Burla

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Hemi395

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Burla

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Burla

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Travis8352

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I have once in a while had start up tick after a redline change for the one time. I was too lazy to fill the oil filter before putting it up. I am stubborn, I still don't do it, but at least I admit I should do it.
The last startup tick i had was with HPL supercar 0w30 right when i poured it in the engine and i also did not out any oil in the filter. Only time i ever didnt put oil in it. I only wetted the gasket and threads and spun it on
 

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ramffml

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So my noisy cold start is back. Good grief. Think I'm getting somewhere though. Last winter was the first time I never heard this sound, I'd have to listen extremely carefully to catch even a faint whiff of something that might resemble this sound and only because I know what to listen for.

The past winter it was basically "silent". HPL PCMO 5w-20, standard mopar filter.

Did an oil change 2 weeks ago, sound is back. HPL Euro no vii 5w-30, Fram XG2 filter.

One of those or a combo must be causing this. And just to be clear, the winter combo is the first combo where I didn't hear it. I've heard the sound for at least 4.5 years now on Redline 0w-30, 5w-20, 5w-30, Mobil 1 FS 0w-40, and HPL P+ 0w-30 for oil, and Fram XG2 (and the smaller one) and both the small RP 10-48 and the bigger RP 20-820. This sound has been the reason I've been continuing to try different oils and filters. I only used the mopar last time as a fluke, I was in a hurry and grabbed one from my dealer on the way home.

When the truck is hot, it is smooth and quiet on all those oils and filters. It's just that initial cold start where I hear the noise.

Video, ignore the green, I was servicing my front diff on the grass:

 
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Burla

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My trip to South Carolina in April would've taken DAYS if I had to charge every 100 miles....
not to mention good luck finding a Tesla charger every 100 miles in rural America, lol.

make sure there is a Genny in your trailer that also has exact charging ports for that Tesla.
 

Hemi395

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not to mention good luck finding a Tesla charger every 100 miles in rural America, lol.

make sure there is a Genny in your trailer that also has exact charging ports for that Tesla.
And that's way more green than having a tailpipe! :cool:
 

Yardbird

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I wonder how many days it would take a 3500 watt generator to charge an almost dead EV battery.....
 

Elkman

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Starting with the new 2017 vehicles the engines and the motor oil specifications changed substantially to use lower weight oil to improve fuel economy. Any motor oil that meets the new SAE specifications is going to be no better or worse than any other motor oil. You can pay more but you will not gain in any respect.

Amsoil has spent millions on advertising to convince gullible owners that this oil is magically better and worth paying twice as much to use. It is worse with diesel engines where the Amsoil additive mix is one of the very worst available (based on independent lab analysis).

My truck uses a synthetic dino blend motor oil and that is what I use. My SUV is supposed to use full synthetic motor oil and that is what I use.
 

crackerjack1957

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So my noisy cold start is back. Good grief. Think I'm getting somewhere though. Last winter was the first time I never heard this sound, I'd have to listen extremely carefully to catch even a faint whiff of something that might resemble this sound and only because I know what to listen for.

The past winter it was basically "silent". HPL PCMO 5w-20, standard mopar filter.

Did an oil change 2 weeks ago, sound is back. HPL Euro no vii 5w-30, Fram XG2 filter.

One of those or a combo must be causing this. And just to be clear, the winter combo is the first combo where I didn't hear it. I've heard the sound for at least 4.5 years now on Redline 0w-30, 5w-20, 5w-30, Mobil 1 FS 0w-40, and HPL P+ 0w-30 for oil, and Fram XG2 (and the smaller one) and both the small RP 10-48 and the bigger RP 20-820. This sound has been the reason I've been continuing to try different oils and filters. I only used the mopar last time as a fluke, I was in a hurry and grabbed one from my dealer on the way home.

When the truck is hot, it is smooth and quiet on all those oils and filters. It's just that initial cold start where I hear the noise.

Video, ignore the green, I was servicing my front diff on the grass:

Piston slap......no problem.....no cure.....unless you rebuild with different pistons
 

ramffml

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Piston slap......no problem.....no cure.....unless you rebuild with different pistons

That's what I've always thought it was. But I want it gone lol, it was gone all winter so something somewhere is having an effect.
 
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