Synthetic Oil

[Hemi395]

pretty interested case study

ss5w20 versus ss0w20
cst visc 8.8 cst visc 8.8
noack 5.8 noack 8.5
hths 2.67 hths 2.67

Never seen anything like that before.

Pour point 0w20 -63f and 5w20 is -58f, defintely not your usual shelf oils.

I think they spent a lot of R&D on their 20wt oils. Since most modern vehicles including a lot of trucks call for a 20 wt oil, they want it to be their best work.

 

[tron67j]

Just did my engine oil change for summer, Red Line 5W-30 and Royal Purple 20-500.

My engine used to clatter for a second or two on startup after oil change cause the oil filter is sideways on 6.4 truck engines. I fill the filter with oil and let it soak into the media, then pour it back into the jug and install. This method ensures the media is oil-soaked so doesn't inhibit flow if it is dry and has to absorb oil before flowing through.

This time, I used the pre-lube cranking for several cycles - no clatter!

Same with my little Yanmar Diesel.

I am about to change my oil in my 2018 2500 6.4, did you find any problem getting your 20-500 up in there? I have 2 in my cabinet and am going to do one tomorrow? Did you need a bit more oil to account for the extra capacity, thanks.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I am about to change my oil in my 2018 2500 6.4, did you find any problem getting your 20-500 up in there? I have 2 in my cabinet and am going to do one tomorrow? Did you need a bit more oil to account for the extra capacity, thanks.

Nope. But I can't get a wider or longer filter up there without replumbimg lower radiator hose, and I ain't doing that.

This said, some 6.4 guys said 20-820 fit fine. Wtf? I posted pics a while back.

7 quarts of oil is 224 ounces of oil. A couple ounces short is 1% low in the oil pan.
You worried about pump sucking air downhill?
Not me.

 

[Hemi395]

2nd overnight cold start with no rattle. This is up there with RL 5w30 quieting my Hemi.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Red Line supposed to have more ester than just the small amount needed to suspend additives in solution in base oils.

We know ester is stiffer than PAO, cold properties not as good. But nothing beats esters for high temp resistance to breakdown.

PAO produces lower wear UOA's.
@Hemi395 didn't you tick on Amsoil SS after a while before?

 

[Hemi395]

Red Line supposed to have more ester than just the small amount needed to suspend additives in solution in base oils.

We know ester is stiffer than PAO, cold properties not as good. But nothing beats esters for high temp resistance to breakdown.

PAO produces lower wear UOA's.
@Hemi395 didn't you tick on Amsoil SS after a while before?

Only on the their SS 30wt oils. It ticked like crazy after about 500 miles both times I tried it. But that could he my truck too, it's ridiculously picky about oil.

I haven't tried the SS 0w/5w20wt in my truck since before I tried RL for the first time, but SS 0w40 seems to be fine in my truck.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Only on the their SS 30wt oils. It ticked like crazy after about 500 miles both times I tried it. But that could he my truck too, it's ridiculously picky about oil.

I haven't tried the SS 0w/5w20wt in my truck since before I tried RL for the first time, but SS 0w40 seems to be fine in my truck.

Even 0W-30?

 

[Hemi395]

Even 0W-30?

Yup tried that a few months ago, made it a couple hundred miles before it started getting a hot idle tick on the drivers side. Switched back to RL 5w30 and it's been fine ever since....

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yup tried that a few months ago, made it a couple hundred miles before it started getting a hot idle tick on the drivers side. Switched back to RL 5w30 and it's been fine ever since....

Searching for logical explanation....

We all know oils are blends of base oil and additives. Sometimes more than one viscosity base oil is blended to get an average viscosity

Generally a low vis base oil needed for 0W vis range needs to be spiked with ever more VII additive the higher the hot vis grade is.
Maybe they blend 0W-30 with multi vis base oils that result in a thicker 0W, with much VII additives. You'd think they'd do the same with 0W-40 plus more VII, so why doesn't 0W-30 behave the same as 0W-40?

 

[Hemi395]

Searching for logical explanation....

We all know oils are blends of base oil and additives. Sometimes more than one viscosity base oil is blended to get an average viscosity

Generally a low vis base oil needed for 0W vis range needs to be spiked with ever more VII additive the higher the hot vis grade is.
Maybe they blend 0W-30 with multi vis base oils that result in a thicker 0W, with much VII additives. You'd think they'd do the same with 0W-40 plus more VII, so why doesn't 0W-30 behave the same as 0W-40?

Exactly and you would think a 0w40 would have more VIIs than the 0w30...

 

[HEMIMANN]

Your Hemi is possessed by tick demons!

 

[Hemi395]

Your Hemi is possessed by tick demons!

Yep that's pretty much the conclusion I've come to

 

[Tony Donato]

I found this interesting video showing an interview with a Stellantis engineer that worked on the Hurricane engine:

Engineer Deep Dive: 3.0L Hurricane Engine - Turbo Life, Oil and Intervals and More

Stellantis new 3.0L Hurricane engine is new for the Ram 1500 and Publisher Tim Esterdahl gets the chance to deep dive with one of the chief engineers behind ...

www.youtube.com

The video titled "Engineer Deep Dive: 3.0L Hurricane Engine - Turbo Life, Oil and Intervals and More" provides an in-depth analysis of the 3.0L Hurricane engine. Key points include the engine's turbocharging technology, oil specifications, and recommended oil change intervals. The discussion highlights the engine's performance, durability, and maintenance needs, emphasizing the importance of using high-quality lubricants to ensure optimal functionality. The engineer explains technical aspects in an accessible manner, making it valuable for both enthusiasts and professionals.

Here are some key points discussed in the video:

• Turbocharging Technology: Detailed explanation of the 3.0L Hurricane engine's advanced turbo system.
• Oil Specifications: Recommendations on the types of oils to use, emphasizing the importance of high-quality lubricants.
• Maintenance: Suggested oil change intervals to maintain engine performance and longevity.
• Performance Insights: Insights into the engine's overall performance and durability.
• Technical Discussion: Accessible yet technical discussion for enthusiasts and professionals alike.

Has anyone else here watched this?

 

[Burla]

Newest report, people are getting locked inside their vehicles if you drive an EV on a hot day, lol. The issue, their is a battery that is in charge of electronics not the large battery under the seat, when these batteries die and it is happening on hot days, you cannot open the door or lower the windows, lol. Now, I'm sure some Darwin will die in the car, but remember if this happens to you please break the window, the dying part is optional.

report

The frequently documented problem is tied to a smaller, separate 12V battery located in the EV that controls windows, door locks, and various other internal electronics. Even if a Tesla’s main battery is charged, the car can trap people inside if the secondary battery drains or malfunctions.


.

 

[J-13GTP]

Heys guys. Going to be switching to redline soon. I have a 6.4 and redline is recommending the 0W-40 oil. Should I use 0W-40 or 5W-30. I'm trying to cure a start up tick that happens after about 500 miles on an oil change. Ticking will go on for a long time before it quiets done. Ive tried other synthetic 5w-30 and even went pack to PUP 0W-40 all with lubegrad . Results are the same at around 500 miles on a change the lifter starts acting up, really debating on pulling it.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Heys guys. Going to be switching to redline soon. I have a 6.4 and redline is recommending the 0W-40 oil. Should I use 0W-40 or 5W-30. I'm trying to cure a start up tick that happens after about 500 miles on an oil change. Ticking will go on for a long time before it quiets done. Ive tried other synthetic 5w-30 and even went pack to PUP 0W-40 all with lubegrad . Results are the same at around 500 miles on a change the lifter starts acting up, really debating on pulling it.

5W-30

If you want to know more, ask specific questions. Otherwise, 2,570 pages of this thread will likely answer any question you could come up with.

I'll answer your next question: yes, I run Red Line 5W-30 exclusively in my 6.4L Hemi truck, 0W-30 in winter (I live near Canadian border).

I do not run Red Line in my other, 'normal' vehicles. Only the Hemi. Exception: Harley-Davidson air-cooled motor.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

5W-30

If you want to know more, ask specific questions. Otherwise, 2,570 pages of this thread will likely answer any question you could come up with.

I'll answer your next question: yes, I run Red Line 5W-30 exclusively in my 6.4L Hemi truck, 0W-30 in winter (I live near Canadian border).

I do not run Red Line in my other, 'normal' vehicles. Only the Hemi. Exception: Harley-Davidson air-cooled motor.

^^^ This!
5W30 RL HP oil, or 0W30 HPL SC oil, and the RP 20-820 or XG2 oil filter.

 

[tjfdesmo]

Heys guys. Going to be switching to redline soon. I have a 6.4 and redline is recommending the 0W-40 oil. Should I use 0W-40 or 5W-30. I'm trying to cure a start up tick that happens after about 500 miles on an oil change. Ticking will go on for a long time before it quiets done. Ive tried other synthetic 5w-30 and even went pack to PUP 0W-40 all with lubegrad . Results are the same at around 500 miles on a change the lifter starts acting up, really debating on pulling it.

I tried 0W40 Redline in my 2015 6.4, and ended up with 5W40 which stayed quiet longer. I regret not trying 5W30, as it does seem to be the magic combo.

In the end, I believe Redline 0W40<5W40<5W30.

 

[Burla]

Heys guys. Going to be switching to redline soon. I have a 6.4 and redline is recommending the 0W-40 oil. Should I use 0W-40 or 5W-30. I'm trying to cure a start up tick that happens after about 500 miles on an oil change. Ticking will go on for a long time before it quiets done. Ive tried other synthetic 5w-30 and even went pack to PUP 0W-40 all with lubegrad . Results are the same at around 500 miles on a change the lifter starts acting up, really debating on pulling it.

You are thinking about pulling the lifters with no misfire, if so please dont lets talk. If it is hot and you tow, like tj said 5w40 redline, with even a 15w40 redline as an option, but lets shelf that for now. In the end, TJ is on point, really 5w30 or 5w40 redline is their best two oils for this proven by guys like tj and hemif395 and U$A and others. 5w30 red;line is thicker then Mopar pup 0w40 for most of the interval, it is the closest oil to hemi spec. So to verify, 500 miles after an oil change = no tick, but then it ticks? If so kinda good news, I would expect the redline strategy to work, but keep in mind sometimes out of the gate it wont, not to worry science of EP additives. Before we get off in weeds, make your move. How about filters, very important with these hemi's, fram endurance fe2, or fram ultra xg2, and a newer option puro boss i'm sure someone can hook you up with the number if you want that. the RP 20-820 is hard to find, many of us that is first choice, maybe in the future they will stock it.

 

[Curmudgeon]

You are thinking about pulling the lifters with no misfire, if so please dont lets talk. If it is hot and you tow, like tj said 5w40 redline, with even a 15w40 redline as an option, but lets shelf that for now. In the end, TJ is on point, really 5w30 or 5w40 redline is their best two oils for this proven by guys like tj and hemif395 and U$A and others. 5w30 red;line is thicker then Mopar pup 0w40 for most of the interval, it is the closest oil to hemi spec. So to verify, 500 miles after an oil change = no tick, but then it ticks? If so kinda good news, I would expect the redline strategy to work, but keep in mind sometimes out of the gate it wont, not to worry science of EP additives. Before we get off in weeds, make your move. How about filters, very important with these hemi's, fram endurance fe2, or fram ultra xg2, and a newer option puro boss i'm sure someone can hook you up with the number if you want that. the RP 20-820 is hard to find, many of us that is first choice, maybe in the future they will stock it.

FYI - the Purolator Boss "oversize" filter that fits our trucks and tested very well is: PBL-24651

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