Synthetic Oil

[tjfdesmo]

Not oil related, but cams are a frequent topic here. Pretty amazing guy...

 

[Curmudgeon]

That guy don't know isht. He only has cams that work and last.

 

[knightjp]

What's wrong with PUP in the 6.4??

Nothing really wrong with PUP, especially if you add Lubegard Biotech to it and keep the oil change intervals to 3k miles.
However, there are much better oils out there if you compare prices and want to keep the OCIs to that magic 5k mark.

Personally I'm keeping the oil change intervals every 3k and so far its going well. I haven't done a lab test yet.

 

[KYPOTLICKER]

PUP/Lubeguard/RP filter. Changing at 5k, no issues for myself. It is early, but working so far.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Not oil related, but cams are a frequent topic here. Pretty amazing guy...

Old man Isky was the only cam company whom I could send old British cams to and tell him what I wanted for drivability and performance improvements on MG's and Triumph cars. He would use his formula based upon Info I gave him as to the engine build I was doing. He would custom grind the original cam and send back a true work of art that finely complimented the engines I built. We turned a stock 1976 TR6 into a Datsun 240Z, performance wise with tame street manners. All the others resulted in real world power without sacrificing streetability!

 

[Travis8352]

HPL supercar 0w40 has arrived!

 

[HEMIMANN]

View attachment 546636

HPL supercar 0w40 has arrived!

Ok, spill your guts - why not SC 0W-30?

Hmmm?

 

[Travis8352]

Ok, spill your guts - why not SC 0W-30?

Hmmm?

Just trying something different. Ive seen enough UOAs and it doesnt shear so im going to try something thicker

 

[KKBB]

View attachment 546636

HPL supercar 0w40 has arrived!

Nice!!! I just got mine today also from the 4th sale. Mine is the premium plus though. Also got 12 quarts of 5w-30 and 5w-20 for my wife's hemi.

 

[Travis8352]

Nice!!! I just got mine today also from the 4th sale. Mine is the premium plus though. Also got 12 quarts of 5w-30 and 5w-20 for my wife's hemi.

I still got 2 gallons of premium plus from the black friday sale to but i think im going to run that in the altima

 

[JHoward]

I still got 2 gallons of premium plus from the black friday sale to but i think im going to run that in the altima

I'm interested in seeing an uoa results and what oil filter was/is used.

I'm liking what you folks are saying about the High Performance Lubricants oil, but I'd like to see more posted "tested results" before I consider making an change.

 

[fitteenhundred]

Check out the cam operation on this 4 cylinder Chevy 1500 with cylinder deactivation.

Chevy 1500 2.7L TurboMAX 4 Cylinder (L3B) Engine *Heavy Mechanic Review* | ACTUALLY GOOD!?

I review the Chevy/GMC 1500 2.7L Inline-4 cylinder TURBO MAX L3B Engine as a Heavy Duty Mechanic. This 4 cylinder turbo charged engine produced 310 hp and 43...

youtu.be

 

[Tom57]

The 3rd Gen Eagle HEMI engine (~2009 to present) has an "oil design flaw", meaning oil deprivation due to VVT/MDS for the fake sake of achieving acceptable EPA ratings.

That is in short, the cam being farther from the crank and isn't getting enough oil splash to the lifters, especially at idle ... hence, why this thread exists, the use of higher oils with molybdenum/zinc to help reduce the possibility of lifter/cam failures and not specific in operating locale or certain motor oil brand loyalty.

I'm not debating or arguing the point about the specifics of oils from certain manufacturing across the spectrum having different results due to oil manufacturing local, but rather, the HEMI engine is known to have potential failure numbers across an large spectrum where they operate, is irrelevant to where an oil is manufactured/blended.

So, in short and simplicity, this thread is about how folks have achieved success with synthetic oils in general with an higher than average molybdenum/zddp, other than from those off the shelf oils, that'll help to reduce the "HEMI tick monster" from rearing it's ugly head.

Jm2¢

I am NOT knocking any brand or synthetic or non-synthetic oil - what type and brand works for you stick with it, all I am saying is by the region of the country you're getting the same oil no matter what brand you have, there're some exceptions - but all the popular brands you buy off the shelf are the same oil . Don't get fooled by marketing. Also when a batch of oil is refined the recipe always comes out a little different and /or the type of crude that's used the refining process is different meaning more or less refining is needed, pay attention to the sulfur content of the oil that's a good indication how good or bad it's refined. I personally judge oil by it's heat dissipation and how slow or fast the viscosity changes with temperature , take a 5W20 for example, most never reach a 20 viscosity so if you switch to a 0W16 you're almost likely to get the same viscosity as the 5W20. I am NOT saying to switch, always use the viscosity Ram recommends - the engineers at Ram are well aware of this with the engines designed for the type of oil they recommend.
Most people can't define the difference between conventional and synthetic oil , to legally market an oil as synthetic every molecule must be the same size and the same ingredient - synthetic oil is made from the same base oil except it's refined better so every amount of oil in that bottle is exactly the same. No offence telling you this but you have no idea what (good or bad) oil you're pouring in your engine including synthetic, some conventional motor oils might be better than a synthetic, SAE tested that years ago, even a popular brand of synthetic tests other brands against their oil and you'll be surprised how many cheap conventional brands rated better than some full synthetic brands. It's a crap shoot, you don't know what you're getting in motor oil, you can't taste it or drink it yourself.

 

[ramffml]

I'm interested in seeing an uoa results and what oil filter was/is used.

I'm liking what you folks are saying about the High Performance Lubricants oil, but I'd like to see more posted "tested results" before I consider making an change.

The question is, do you need to change if you're getting excellent results on whatever you're running now (RL if I remember correctly)?

But anyway, HPL has great reports over on bitog, for example here is one with the cheapest PCMO in a 5.3 chevy truck.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/21-chevrolet-1500-5-3l-hpl-pceo-5w-30-11-759-miles.384946/

 

[Sherman Bird]

I am NOT knocking any brand or synthetic or non-synthetic oil - what type and brand works for you stick with it, all I am saying is by the region of the country you're getting the same oil no matter what brand you have, there're some exceptions - but all the popular brands you buy off the shelf are the same oil . Don't get fooled by marketing. Also when a batch of oil is refined the recipe always comes out a little different and /or the type of crude that's used the refining process is different meaning more or less refining is needed, pay attention to the sulfur content of the oil that's a good indication how good or bad it's refined. I personally judge oil by it's heat dissipation and how slow or fast the viscosity changes with temperature , take a 5W20 for example, most never reach a 20 viscosity so if you switch to a 0W16 you're almost likely to get the same viscosity as the 5W20. I am NOT saying to switch, always use the viscosity Ram recommends - the engineers at Ram are well aware of this with the engines designed for the type of oil they recommend.
Most people can't define the difference between conventional and synthetic oil , to legally market an oil as synthetic every molecule must be the same size and the same ingredient - synthetic oil is made from the same base oil except it's refined better so every amount of oil in that bottle is exactly the same. No offence telling you this but you have no idea what (good or bad) oil you're pouring in your engine including synthetic, some conventional motor oils might be better than a synthetic, SAE tested that years ago, even a popular brand of synthetic tests other brands against their oil and you'll be surprised how many cheap conventional brands rated better than some full synthetic brands. It's a crap shoot, you don't know what you're getting in motor oil, you can't taste it or drink it yourself.

Decades ago, I had a mechanic working for me in my auto repair shop. We got into a debate over all manner of oils. Eventually, to break the tension, he laughingly suggested trying bacon grease as a substitute for oil! Think how good that would smell going down the street!

 

[Travis8352]

Decades ago, I had a mechanic working for me in my auto repair shop. We got into a debate over all manner of oils. Eventually, to break the tension, he laughingly suggested trying bacon grease as a substitute for oil! Think how good that would smell going down the street!

Applewood smoked is the best

 

[Yardbird]

I used to keep a gallon of 90 weight gear oil in the trunk of my old 1967 Impala. It used to use one to several quarts of oil a week, usually at least two.

I worked at a truck dealership, so I got a gallon jug and filled the jug up with 90W.

Every few days I would add a quart of 90. Cut the deceleration smoke way down, and the oil usage to around 1 quart per week.

Darn smooth engine with no noise when running, even before the 90 weight.

I did pull a head. The cylinders were smooth as glass and so worn oversize you could see by the pistons to the rings.

Put it back together and kept adding 90 until I sold it.

Darn good looking 2 door hard top, light yellow with black interior, 283, three on the tree.

 

[Burla]

I used to keep a gallon of 90 weight gear oil in the trunk of my old 1967 Impala. It used to use one to several quarts of oil a week, usually at least two.

I worked at a truck dealership, so I got a gallon jug and filled the jug up with 90W.

Every few days I would add a quart of 90. Cut the deceleration smoke way down, and the oil usage to around 1 quart per week.

Darn smooth engine with no noise when running, even before the 90 weight.

I did pull a head. The cylinders were smooth as glass and so worn oversize you could see by the pistons to the rings.

Put it back together and kept adding 90 until I sold it.

Darn good looking 2 door hard top, light yellow with black interior, 283, three on the tree.

What's another name for 90 weight gear oil? 85w gear oil can be in fact a thin 30 weight oil. n fact PUP 0w40 would qualify as 90 weight gear oil but for additive pack, on viscosity it is in that range. Just for info purposes, you could just add a 40 weight oil and do the same thing and have the correct additives.

 

[Yardbird]

What's another name for 90 weight gear oil? 85w gear oil can be in fact a thin 30 weight oil. n fact PUP 0w40 would qualify as 90 weight gear oil but for additive pack, on viscosity it is in that range. Just for info purposes, you could just add a 40 weight oil and do the same thing and have the correct additives.

View attachment 546698

That was back in 1980. All I knew about oil back then was......I would rather have reprocessed oil than Quaker State or Pennzoil. lol

In those days, I never saw an engine that ran either that wasn't gummed up.

 

[HEMIMANN]

Decades ago, I had a mechanic working for me in my auto repair shop. We got into a debate over all manner of oils. Eventually, to break the tension, he laughingly suggested trying bacon grease as a substitute for oil! Think how good that would smell going down the street!

You remember they used animal lard as a lubricant for steam cylinders because it didn't wash out so quickly?
Mobil still made steam cylinder lube thru the 1980s.