Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 205 8.7%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 290 12.3%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 341 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 135 5.7%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 859 36.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 537 22.7%

  • Total voters
    2,367

Rod Knock

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I decided that next time I would try Amsoil 5W30 or 5W40 if there was no Redline.
The only AMSOIL lubes fit for your climate are the ones below. They all have an HTHS of 3.5 or above, provide good MOFT, carry European OEM approvals, and are loaded with high-quality additive packages.

AMSOIL 5W-30 LS: https://www.amsoil.com/p/sae-5w-30-ls-synthetic-european-motor-oil-ael/
AMSOIL 5W-40 MS: https://www.amsoil.com/p/sae-5w-40-ms-synthetic-european-motor-oil-afl/
AMSOIL 5W-40 FS: https://www.amsoil.com/p/sae-5w-40-fs-synthetic-european-motor-oil-efm/

I plan on being the guy that takes his HEMI engine to a million miles (if I can).
How often do you service your transmission?
Do you run the stock 203F thermostat?

I understood that Motul was just a theory.
It's not a good idea to test out other people's theories on your engine. Especially by putting racing oil in your engine.

I don't know about the long term effects of using Motul 300V since I only used it once.
Racing oil is formulated to provide maximum wear protection for the duration of a race, multiple track sessions, etc. There aren't prescribed OCIs for racing oils because racing teams usually tear down their engines, and based on measurements and observations of the engine internals, they decide how long to run a racing oil.

Racing oil contains very high amounts of anti-wear additives and low amounts of detergents and dispersants. This is so that anti-wear additives can benefit from the most surface area inside the engine and not get washed away by the detergents.

Among those high amounts of anti-wear additives is ZDDP, which is corrosive at high treat rates. So, depending on how long you had that racing oil in there, you might be okay.
 

ramffml

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Response from Dave @ Redline:

I am unsure whether the noise is piston slap or in the valve train, I have heard various explanations.

Customers have experienced a reduction using our oils, regarding the difference between our 0W30 and 5W30, the 0W30 would be a little lower viscosity at low start up temperatures, possibly getting up to the valve train quicker. The HTHS/film strength is about 10% higher with the 5W30. The 5W20 though would be a lower viscosity at lower temperatures.

Nothing really conclusive there unfortunately.
 

HEMIMANN

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Response from Dave @ Redline:



Nothing really conclusive there unfortunately.

No, but it basically confirms the Forum's assessment of viscosity selection.

SAE viscosity grades are wide enough to be misleading for application. One has to look at viscosity curves. It isn't obvious Red Line 5W-20 has lower viscosity below the "W" measured temp of 0 degrees F than Red Line 0W-30.

That said, if we're towing during winter, I'd want 0W-30 anyway, because the "W" and lower viscosity is ONLY for starting and warm up condition. While important, so is what you do with the vehicle once it's warm.
 

Rod Knock

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Nothing really conclusive there unfortunately.
I'm still glad he responded. I have probably around thirty email exchanges with him, and while not always satisfying my neverending curiosity, it's more than I got from any other lubricant manufacturer.

After looking at @Hemi395's UOAs, where he used 0W-30 and 5W-30, I can draw the following conclusion based on the fact that RedLine is blended with a majority PAO base stock:
- 0W-30 sears under repeated heat cycles -> lighter PAO base stock + more VI
- 5W-30 thickens under repeated heat -> heavier PAO base stock + less VI - it is possible that the little VI that's in there still shears under heat, yet at the same time, the rest of the lube thickens.

It is possible that they purposefully designed formulated their oils this way.

Unfortunately, Dave's reply did not satisfy our curiosity. Interestingly enough, Dave didn't mention how these lubes are classified. RedLine themselves classifies 5W-20 and 0W-30 as ACEA A5/B5 and 5W-30 as ACEA A3/B4. Still, if it works for you and you're satisfied with the results, then keep doing what you're doing.
 

HEMIMANN

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Yaaaasss.
That's the original recipe with high calcium low magnesium.
Copper is tad high, so was mine. Iron wear is moderate and fine.

Note TBN is fine. Like I've said, it really only measures how much antioxidation additives remain.

The oil itself can go longer, but Hemis being so sensitive to contaminants and filters we been changing @ 5,000 miles. Even with Red Line.
Still relatively cheap insurance for an expensive engine.
 

Burla

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@Burla

Check out this 2 year interval uoa on a hemi! 5w20 redline
That is sweet man, where did you find that? Young engine and probably mirrors the best ever uoa on the board for a hemi, I envy that hemi, lol. 5w20 isnt a bad move for hemi's at all, as long as it aint ticking.
 

Rod Knock

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@Burla - he found it on the OIL forum under PCMO UOAs. :rolleyes:
 
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JHoward

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Yaaaasss.
That's the original recipe with high calcium low magnesium.
Copper is tad high, so was mine. Iron wear is moderate and fine.

Note TBN is fine. Like I've said, it really only measures how much antioxidation additives remain.

The oil itself can go longer, but Hemis being so sensitive to contaminants and filters we been changing @ 5,000 miles. Even with Red Line.
Still relatively cheap insurance for an expensive engine.


Yes, "Still relatively cheap insurance for an expensive engine".
 
Last edited:

Travis8352

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That is sweet man, where did you find that? Young engine and probably mirrors the best ever uoa on the board for a hemi, I envy that hemi, lol. 5w20 isnt a bad move for hemi's at all, as long as it aint ticking.
Caught my eye on bitog. Tbn made me almost think it was your 2 year uoa but wear is nice here
 
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