Synthetic Oil

[Ramerica]

awesome, very cool, thanks

Esters can be around the 1200 and the 1800 (1735), so can be possible for both peaks. However, what is the ester bond, do you know?

That's over my head but my gut says 1800-1700 based on the strength of the Lubegard and Ravenol peak and the fact it was basically not there for PUP and M1. The small lumpy peaks might be getting into the limitations of sensitivity for the FTIR and could be background noise

 

[Burla]

Something to study up on, I appreciate all the info.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

This was a few pages ago, but I promised to post up pics of Ralph Gilles one of a kind Viper, and my 06' 300SRT8 with Ralph Gilles signatures on it, too.

Without further adue....

Ralph Gilles custom white Viper... it also had one-off custom made for him magnesium Motegi wheels as well... what a sweet ride, and I got to be a passenger in it.... holy crap... Ralph is no joke behind the wheel!!

 

[CanuckRam1313]

My 06' 300SRT8 first run with the 4-piece front clip and 3-piece rear clip.
I then added in the grills and custom made fiberglass headlight covers as well.
Those headlight covers were first sealed with XPel protection film and then the covers installed permanently with DOW urethane.

I really miss this ride...she was a true beauty and crazy quick and stable on the road course and on the 1/4 track, too!

 

[Travis8352]

I believe these new mobil 1 formulas are using a good chunk of ANs which is giving them some cleaning power which ive noticed first hand with decrease in oil consumption on the nissan altima after 3 runs of dexos1 gen 3 mobil 1 5w30/EP 5w30 with the triple action label. Its a 2011 and ive driven the car from 125k to 153k now. The first change last year after replacing the oil pan i used mobil 1 annual protection 5w30 and it used about 3/4 of a quart in 3500 miles. I then used the older formula mobil 1 EP 5w30 and it used about a quart in 4k miles. Another 4k mile OCI with same oil it used a quart. Then i switched to the new formula triple action formula mobil 1 5w30 (not EP) and it used 3/4 of a quart in 3500 miles. Then i did another 3500 mile OCI with EP 5w30 triple action formula and after 4k miles it was only 1/2 a quart and now using the same oil this change at 4400 miles im only down 1/8th quart! I found PUP 5w30 locally so im going to give that a go this time. Just putting this out there

 

[HEMIMANN]

Yeah, esters generally are for two things.

The first, traditionally, was to use as an additive in Group IV PAO base oil to hold other additives in suspension / solution.

Reason I recall when @ Mobil was PAO molecular structure is too uniform to hold additive molecules in suspension, so the radicals on the ester molecule serves that purpose. in fact, the original Mobil 1 PAO stated that on the oil can - something like 100% synthetic exclusive of additive carrier. Back in those days there weren't any API categories for types of synthetics. This is before Castrol marketed cat cracked and hydrotreated crude as 'synthetic', which led to the API referee categories.

The second is use of esters as high temperature circulation oils for roller bearings. Primary use was, and still is, jet engines, especially for the shaft bearings in the hot (turbine) section. Esters don't provide substantial shear lubrication - they are meant for rollers or bushings, not piston rings sliding in cylinders or cam lobes on sliding tappets. Plus they are very expensive.

Red Line is a specialty oil designed for racing application. The base oil is a blend of PAO and Ester. The only pure ester oil is jet oil, where flourocarbon seals are used that don't swell from ester oil contact. The ester is put into Red Line I think for higher temps in race engine (high speed and load). But the base oil still needs PAO for NBR seal materials and for the cylinder wall lubrication.

Hemi engines respond to Red Line because Hemi engine lubrication system is inadequately design and needs help.

 

[KenR 955]

OK guys, here's one for ya.
2014 Ram 1500
Bought used 4 years ago, 85K on it.
Ran Valvoline 5w20 for the first oil change, found this place and have run RL 5w30 and RP filters since. Every Blackstone report had come back as wonderful. I have posted a few reports here. Currently the truck has 125K, uses no oil between the 5k OCI.
So, why am I posting here? Oil pressure, or the recent lack of high oil pressure. Normal pressure at operating temp (200+ degrees) has been 46-48psi at idle, 55-58 doing 65mph (appx 1,500rpm). The last two weeks oil pressures have been dropping, 39 at idle, 44-46 at speed. Oil was 500 miles short of the 5K OCI, so I got some PUP 5w30 and both of the Purolator Boss filters (big and small). Did the oil change, the big Boss filter would NOT fit, so I used the small one.
Presto, oil pressure was back to normal. For about a week. Today, idle pressure dropped to 37, but "at speed" pressure was 55.
What the heck is going on? I'm waiting on the Blackstone report, and will post it when I get it. Engine makes no non-normal noises and is as quiet as normal.

Ideas?

I got the Blackstone report yesterday. Almost everything is the same except tin went from 1 to 5ppm and aluminum from 2 to 5ppm.
Oil pressure is still in the 53-54 psi at speed and 37-39 at idle, oil temp being at 200-205 degrees.
Thoughts? Ideas?

 

[knightjp]

When talking about oil additives, has anyone ever used Liquimoly MoS2? I did a search and found one thread where someone used it and had success. Just wanted to know if there were more.
It is more easily and readily available here in Dubai than Lubegard. So I was thinking that for the next oil change, I would use "Toyota" brand oil 5w30 or "Lexus" brand oil 5w40 with Liquimoly MoS2 added for good measure.

 

[Burla]

I got the Blackstone report yesterday. Almost everything is the same except tin went from 1 to 5ppm and aluminum from 2 to 5ppm.
Oil pressure is still in the 53-54 psi at speed and 37-39 at idle, oil temp being at 200-205 degrees.
Thoughts? Ideas?

Still is one of the best reports I've seen, that thing is wearing like a honda. Usually that aluminum is cold start up wear, I didnt see the weight, but in the past we would have guys go to 0w30 from 5w30 in that case, but we dont know what 0w30 looks like in redline currently unless I am misremembering. One possible move is to home brew you up a 0w30 by adding 3 qrts 0w20 or 5w20 to 5w30. I know what you are saying, how could 5w20 added to 5w30 make a 0 winter rating. Well it isnt perfect, but 0w30 pertains to cold characteristics for a THIRTY weight oil, so any "thinning" of 5w30 is gonna make that winter rating shift downward. Bottom line, thinner will flow better at cold start, but by mixing you still get benefits of 30 weight. If you go straight to 0w20 you may not like that as you will loose that butter smoothness. Or go to 0w30 and see how the truck responds, but this weight was once a great option, maybe the best all around oil, then redline changed it, argg.

Was it colder this year where you are at?

 

[Burla]

When talking about oil additives, has anyone ever used Liquimoly MoS2? I did a search and found one thread where someone used it and had success. Just wanted to know if there were more.
It is more easily and readily available here in Dubai than Lubegard. So I was thinking that for the next oil change, I would use "Toyota" brand oil 5w30 or "Lexus" brand oil 5w40 with Liquimoly MoS2 added for good measure.

powdered moly in suspension, not oil soluble moly.