Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 232 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 321 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 388 14.2%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 159 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 987 36.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 655 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,742

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U&A

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is the 650 a one cylinder as well? Only carb'd bike in production? what did it run if you dont mind me ask'n.
As fare as I know it is the only air cooled carbed, single cylinder ( cast iron cylinder FYI. No plating) in production. In a DS bike
 

HEMIMANN

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I know their US oils both the regular and EP are formulated with a load of base oil antioxidants per the msds. That may be how they achieve the 20k OCI claims.

More craziness -

At Wally World:
M1 EP (USA) 20,000 mile = $41.99 per 5 qt jug (on sale at the moment for $27.97)
M1 ESP (Europe low SAPS) O&M Manual miles = $49.35 per 5 qt jug
M1 FS (Europe high SAPS) 10,000 mile = $43.90 per 5 qt jug

The longest drain interval oil is priced the least? wtf? Yeah, it may be loaded with antioxidant additives, but the base oil would have to be good too like old times - PAO blends.

And a routine synthetic costs the most? Owner's Manual OCI is a Group III base oil without lots of antiwear. Why would that cost the most?

Screw it - M1 FS is what I'm getting.
 

danielmid

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Since we're on a tangent again, I just wrapped up a refresh of a new to me Honda 4 stroke snowblower. Previous owner said he maintained it, but who knows, plus it had the wrong temp spark plug in it. So it got a front end complete rebuild among with wire wheel and POR15 with top coat, new spark plug, carb cleaned, new gas, added an hour meter, and an oil drain and fill with Amsoil small engine synthetic. Prepping this one to run forever.

Next small project is DeWalt 20v powered headlights.
1000002470.jpg
1000002471.jpg
 

U&A

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Since we're on a tangent again, I just wrapped up a refresh of a new to me Honda 4 stroke snowblower. Previous owner said he maintained it, but who knows, plus it had the wrong temp spark plug in it. So it got a front end complete rebuild among with wire wheel and POR15 with top coat, new spark plug, carb cleaned, new gas, added an hour meter, and an oil drain and fill with Amsoil small engine synthetic. Prepping this one to run forever.

Next small project is DeWalt 20v powered headlights.
View attachment 532395
View attachment 532396
The amber lights are a nice touch. Feel like a dang plow truck with them things on.

And just so your aware, this thread is the definition of a “ tangent”

But seriously, nice job and nice blower. Iv had a 2 stage blower with ZERO Maintenance besides oil changes (obviously. I mean we are talking in this thread) and a few shear pins i can 100% blame the wife for and have the extension cord to prove it.



today uncle GIF
 

06 Dodge

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The amber lights are a nice touch. Feel like a dang plow truck with them things on.

And just so your aware, this thread is the definition of a “ tangent”

But seriously, nice job and nice blower. Iv had a 2 stage blower with ZERO Maintenance besides oil changes (obviously. I mean we are talking in this thread) and a few shear pins i can 100% blame the wife for and have the extension cord to prove it.



today uncle GIF

If ya haven't broke a few shear pins on your show blower ya haven't moved very much snow :anitoof:
 

BLUKTY2

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So maybe who cares, if we need to change single injector GDI engine oil every 5k miles during to rich burn soot loading anyway, right?

I see Toyota has a true GDI engine with dual injectors like any GDI engine should be. Soot loading should be much less from switching to the port injectors during rich burn mode. Then I might care about extended oil life.

For now, with wife's single injector turbo GDI, imma switch from PUP to M1 FS 5W-30, and go to Fram Endurance Oil Filter. OCI still 5k miles
I have read your posts today with great interest as I need to make a similar decision: what oil to use in a Toyota 2.4L GDI Turbo engine used in a recently purchased Lexus. In my case, the North American owners manual calls for 0W-20; 5W-20 may be used if necessary but MUST be replaced by 0W-20 at the next oil change. I am absolutely no expert on the subject of engine oils, and have nowhere near the background and experience that you have, but I have done a lot of research and reading on engine oils over the years (okay, decades). IMHO, 0W-20 is too thin for long term engine reliability, which is my primary objective since I plan on keeping this vehicle for 18-20 years at least. I do not care about a fraction of a MPG increase by using thin oil. So my quest over the last couple of months is to come up with a long-term lubrication strategy for this engine that doesn't involve using a 0W-20.

During this time I have researched the Euro oils from various brands a fair amount and in general they certainly seem like very stout oils. So I think you are on the right track with switching to M1 FS 5W-30. Like your application, I need to consider the API SP/GF-6A rating for LSPI mitigation of a Euro oil and for me, this has been elusive unless specifically indicated in the oil properties. A lot, if not most, of the Euro oil spec sheets do not list these specifications that I can find, but M1 does. I am probably missing something in the interpretation of the various properties of the Euro oils and how they correspond to SP/GF-6 specs but I'll be da..ed if I can figure it out.

I have never used QS oils, but in my research they have caught my attention. You mentioned these oils in an earlier post but have you considered their 5W-30 full synthetic or EP full synthetic? cSt @ 100C is 11.6 and 11.7 respectively.
QS FS
QS UP FS
Just a thought. They both seem like good oils at a good price point, especially if using 5,000 mile oci's. I am leaning hard towards either of these to replace the recommended 0W-20 in my application.
 

06 Dodge

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I have read your posts today with great interest as I need to make a similar decision: what oil to use in a Toyota 2.4L GDI Turbo engine used in a recently purchased Lexus. In my case, the North American owners manual calls for 0W-20; 5W-20 may be used if necessary but MUST be replaced by 0W-20 at the next oil change. I am absolutely no expert on the subject of engine oils, and have nowhere near the background and experience that you have, but I have done a lot of research and reading on engine oils over the years (okay, decades). IMHO, 0W-20 is too thin for long term engine reliability, which is my primary objective since I plan on keeping this vehicle for 18-20 years at least. I do not care about a fraction of a MPG increase by using thin oil. So my quest over the last couple of months is to come up with a long-term lubrication strategy for this engine that doesn't involve using a 0W-20.

During this time I have researched the Euro oils from various brands a fair amount and in general they certainly seem like very stout oils. So I think you are on the right track with switching to M1 FS 5W-30. Like your application, I need to consider the API SP/GF-6A rating for LSPI mitigation of a Euro oil and for me, this has been elusive unless specifically indicated in the oil properties. A lot, if not most, of the Euro oil spec sheets do not list these specifications that I can find, but M1 does. I am probably missing something in the interpretation of the various properties of the Euro oils and how they correspond to SP/GF-6 specs but I'll be da..ed if I can figure it out.

I have never used QS oils, but in my research they have caught my attention. You mentioned these oils in an earlier post but have you considered their 5W-30 full synthetic or EP full synthetic? cSt @ 100C is 11.6 and 11.7 respectively.
QS FS
QS UP FS
Just a thought. They both seem like good oils at a good price point, especially if using 5,000 mile oci's. I am leaning hard towards either of these to replace the recommended 0W-20 in my application.

Be glad you don't have to use the 0w16 like I have to use in my wife's 21 Highlander 2.4L GDI that at last UOA still has <5% gas in the oil with just 5356 miles on the oil and Toyota could care less...
 

Burla

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Makes you wonder even if they believe thin oil gives them better "mileage" at what point does the opposite happen and due to thin oil and larger tolerance that are inevitable with aging engines does the use of a thin oil actually cost you "mileage". And talk about how much more pollution happens when those oils blow by those tolerances. Wouldn't the "science" dictate that every engine no matter what should move away from thin oils at some point? Even in increments move up to 2 grades heavier, maybe even three? Example, use that 20 weight for that first 100k miles if you must, then 30 weight for the next hundred, 40 weight for the next hundred, and maybe even 50 weight for the next hundred thousand miles? Not even considering the wear issue just mileage, would not science of engines and lubrication be that the premise of thin oils gaining mileage be a temporary thing that needs to be adjusted?
 

Burla

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Certainly engines that have experienced significant ring and liner wear benefit from thicker oils. Thicker oil use results in compression increases, performance improvements and reduced oil consumption. Machinelube...

So since all engines lose compression during the aging process, wouldnt restoring compression with thick oil actually be the only fix absent new pistons? Isnt less oil consumption actually good for climate change? Hard not to laugh a little when I say those two words since clearly that is a red hearing and not the actual goal, lol. But should the ultra climate change people be vibrantly and vigorously suggesting to use thick oil in older engines to save the earth's climate?? They use science to suggest thin oils help the "climate" but then stop when thick oil is the science of better mileage and lesser pollution.

Just the FACTS.............................................................................................
 

knightjp

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Unreal the m1 in a box even cheaper I been seeing it at a couple places 4.50 to 4.3 per quart in a box same formula m1 fs 0w40. Well damn, total loss liter type pricing for an oil that is such high quality is easily a top 5 hemi oil for any price.
Over here in Dubai,
8L of M1 FS 0W40 is 130 USD
8L of Redline 5w30 (if available) is 142 USD
10L Liquimoly Molygen 5w30 with the hydraulic lifter fluid is 122 USD
 
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