Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 235 8.5%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 327 11.8%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 399 14.4%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 993 35.8%
  • Other

    Votes: 661 23.8%

  • Total voters
    2,775

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Treburkulosis

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FWIW my experience with Pennzoil products.

My tick started when I changed the factory fill with PP 5w20. The motor was quiet as can be on the factory fill which we believe is PYB. After trying just about every oil and viscosity under the sun, including a PUP 5w30/0w40 mix, I quieted it back up with RL 5w30.

Fast forward to 2017, we got a 2017 Grand Cherokee. It was never quiet on startup since it was new. The factory fill which I believe is PP 0w20, rattle like crazy on cols starts. We got 1 free oil change and they put in bulk 0w20 which I believe to be PP 0w20. It was loud AF on cold starts in the winter. Tried PUP 0w20 in it (which was NOT easy to find) and it was basically just as loud. After that I tried in SS 0w20 and it was quiet as can be in cold starts in the winter.

2020, we traded the 2017 in for a 2020 GC. Same thing, rattled on cold starts with the factory fill. We plan on buying this one at the end of the lease so at 1000 miles I put SS 0w20 in. Instantly quiet on cold starts. Just changed it again in the spring with SS 0w20 and it's nice and quiet. Going to keep using SS 0w20 in it.

Point is on 3 different vehicles PP/PUP has made the motors louder. Kinda all set with PP/PUP.

Just my .02
You are correct every vehicle is different thus this oil may work, this one may not. Its the same way with gas. Some don't mind cheaper brands and others like Exxon or Shell.
 

smiley

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I have run Valvoline full synthetic in our Wrangler's, and currently in my 2013 Hemi. I haven't had any issues, but some of you are saying it is "crap". Prior to that I used Amsoil, but it was getting harder for me to get it, and that was the reason for the change. Without breaking the bank with Redline, or Amsoil, I'm really open for suggestions. Or if the two previous mentioned oils are the best, I would consider going that route.
Thanks for any input, and I'm sure there will be plenty of opinions..

I believe it is stout oil. I know many pages back 5W-30 Full Syn Max Life was shown to be awesome for wear. I think Rats blog showed that too. I would have to look back. I have in one of my extra cars because of that write up. It is a bit noisy in there which a 3.1 GM. I think those engines are noisy anyway.
 

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FWIW my experience with Pennzoil products.

My tick started when I changed the factory fill with PP 5w20. The motor was quiet as can be on the factory fill which we believe is PYB. After trying just about every oil and viscosity under the sun, including a PUP 5w30/0w40 mix, I quieted it back up with RL 5w30.

Fast forward to 2017, we got a 2017 Grand Cherokee. It was never quiet on startup since it was new. The factory fill which I believe is PP 0w20, rattle like crazy on cols starts. We got 1 free oil change and they put in bulk 0w20 which I believe to be PP 0w20. It was loud AF on cold starts in the winter. Tried PUP 0w20 in it (which was NOT easy to find) and it was basically just as loud. After that I tried in SS 0w20 and it was quiet as can be in cold starts in the winter.

2020, we traded the 2017 in for a 2020 GC. Same thing, rattled on cold starts with the factory fill. We plan on buying this one at the end of the lease so at 1000 miles I put SS 0w20 in. Instantly quiet on cold starts. Just changed it again in the spring with SS 0w20 and it's nice and quiet. Going to keep using SS 0w20 in it.

Point is on 3 different vehicles PP/PUP has made the motors louder. Kinda all set with PP/PUP.

Just my .02

I think it does clean really well which could be a factor. Hard to say but I have seen that on here too. We have seen reports of it being louder but wear numbers on UOA were really good still.
 

Burla

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To me Pennzoil is not even close as scary as Valvoline. From 2008 to 2010 I did a long term test with Valvoline. Back then if I started with an oil brand in a vehicle I stuck with it. I ran their 5W-20 Synthetic, whatever their top tier was called back then, for 7500 mile OCIs in a 2.7L MPI engine in a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 5 speed manual. I did a lot of highway driving. Around 32000 miles the motor started ticking. It was a sticky lifter. At the time I didn't know it, but you could get a sticky lifter in those engines from "quality" oil. My dad also had a 2.7 Santa Fe at the time, but he used Mobil 1 and never developed that problem.

My point is that for a few dollars less than Castrol or Mobil 1, why would I buy Valvoline, Pennzoil, or Quaker State at Walmart? It's not like by doing so I'm supporting some "underdog" company that makes a superior product for less money, because SOPUS is anything but small. Neither is Valvoline, though it's much much smaller than SOPUS.

no moly. This board was tracking what oils were used on cam fails at one point, 6 in a row at one point were from non moly oils among the fails was a valvoline and royal purple. It doesn't surprise me when I hear "my vehicle back in those days ticked on valvoline."

Now, they have extra moly which is great. To me the issue is a standardized formula, as in a commitment to moly over time. When I don't see that commitment, it makes me question whether or not to run that oil in a hemi.

All of us need to think and rethink our old notions when it comes to oil brands. What was a solid choice in the 80's or even 90's might be sparce now. It is randem and thanks to modern tools now we do have some answers.
 

MontanaHandyman

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Burla said "and thanks to modern tools now we do have some answers"...

and I add: and thanks to forums such as this I have answers. Having been a house painter for many years I was always fascinated with the chemistry behind paints, primers, additives, etc., and I always enjoyed calling up various paint companies and chatting with the lab rats at Benjamin Moore, Flood, and so on (and they seemed to enjoy chatting as well. I'm guessing they didn't have many chats with someone on the outside wanting to talk about paint chemistry...probly not a real hot topic of conversation!) But for all my love of chemistry, for whatever odd reason even unknown to me, I never once stopped to think that there might be a gap as wide as the grand canyon between engine oils. And now I know the rest of the story behind all the marketing hype, thanks to you folks. Keep up the good work!
 

Rod Knock

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@Burla, there is more to motor oil than Moly. Both Valvoline and Royal Purple (Calumet) tried to save a quarter. They wound up losing millions in profits because other than a small loyal following (weird), no one is buying them, especially Royal Purple. The formula is not standardized. It's Lubrizol that is selling Valvoline, a finished additive package, pure and simple. They put Moly in oil to pass the timing chain wear test, which is a cheat, by the way. But I don't want to go down that rabbit hole now. The point is that motor oils made with poor quality base stocks that don't have friction modifiers to compensate for what the base oil can't do will lead to additional wear, pure and simple. Was Castrol EDGE 0W-40 on that list? I doubt it.

@Hemi395 The link between PYB and quiet HEMI is the density of the oil. It's a group II oil that is much denser than synthetic, but it's not consistent in its density, so it's not good for long OCIs. Red Line is much denser than any oil on the market and uses quality VII, so of course, it quiets down a motor with loose tolerances in some parts. And it has POE that is basically a solvent, so it cleans really well. Moly is not the only thing in Red Line that makes it work, not by a long shot. Actually, RL has been cutting down on Moly lately. It's not that PP, PUP, Mobil 1, or other oils are bad, but rather that they're made for modern engines that are manufactured better. The HEMI has Q&A issues, so you're better served by a thicker oil. Pure and simple. And it has to be a quality oil as well.

And finally, I don't get people that use HD Diesel oils in their gasoline vehicles. The Subaru crowd loves Rotella T6, which is insane. That oil doesn't take into account timing chains, soot from gasoline, and many other things. Why do you guys think that Chrysler has a different standard for the EcoDiesel? They recommended Rotella T6 for that thing when engines running Pennzoil Euro L 5W-30 started showing up with spun bearings. The Rotella T6 was a stop-gap until Shell finally made a 5W-40 compatible with the EcoDiesel, MS-12991. That's because the EcoDiesel has a timing chain and because it was developed as a passenger car diesel for Europe, and an ACEA C3 oil like EURO L 5W-30 would have been perfectly fine for it. But when you put a diesel with tiny bearings in a truck and run PCMO oil in it, things tend to go south really fast. Of course, I couldn't convince many of these people that they're wrong unless I showed them the inside of a truck engine. It has timing gears, ceramic rollers, and a single forged cam. They're all similarly built, except when they try to save money, they cheapen some of them. That's why these truck engines go for so long, whether idiots run Lucas in them or go 60,000 miles on AMSOIL because their AMSOIL dealer said they should. It's not the oil so much as it's how they're built. So HD Diesel oil is not nearly as good or as "stout" as people think. And it doesn't have "a dose of moly" or a "shot of boron" usually. It's just oil and relies mostly on the base stock to do its job. Oh, and most HD 15W-40 Diesel oils don't really have friction modifiers because they don't need them in a truck engine.

If Moly was the end-all-be-all, then we would all be running TGMO 0W-20 in our HEMIs (700+ ppm) or Mobil 1 0W-30 Racing Oil (1600 ppm).

[Edit]

One more thing that grinds my gears: how many of those Las Vegas taxi cabs used to qualify motor oils for MS-6395 (0/5W-20/30) and MS-12663 (0W-40) are actually running HEMIs under the hood? Yeah, it's amazing when one applies logic to nonsense, lol.
 
Last edited:

Travis8352

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no moly. This board was tracking what oils were used on cam fails at one point, 6 in a row at one point were from non moly oils among the fails was a valvoline and royal purple. It doesn't surprise me when I hear "my vehicle back in those days ticked on valvoline."

Now, they have extra moly which is great. To me the issue is a standardized formula, as in a commitment to moly over time. When I don't see that commitment, it makes me question whether or not to run that oil in a hemi.

All of us need to think and rethink our old notions when it comes to oil brands. What was a solid choice in the 80's or even 90's might be sparce now. It is randem and thanks to modern tools now we do have some answers.
To many oils make drastic changes every few years. Good point id be hesitant to run valvoline in a hemi long term since they change it to much. They went from 0 moly with synpower to 80 ppm with advanced synthetic to 300 with new api sp. atleast their getting better
 

Rod Knock

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To many oils make drastic changes every few years. Good point id be hesitant to run valvoline in a hemi long term since they change it to much. They went from 0 moly with synpower to 80 ppm with advanced synthetic to 300 with new api sp. atleast their getting better

Say what you want about Mobil 1, but they've been consistent in their formulations. Not only that, but they've been ahead of the curve when it comes to LSPI and timing chain wear. Castrol is the second company that comes to mind when it comes to consistency, though not as consistent or ahead of the curve as Mobil 1.

The problem with Mobil 1 is segmentation, too many similar products. For example, they have four (yes four) 0W-20 oils. One of them (ESP X2 0W-20) exists only to fulfill ACEA C5, MB 229.71, and a few VW approvals. It's made with a higher density of basestock than Mobil 1 EP 0W-20. Contrast that with Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 that is Dexos 1 approved, ACEA A1/B1 (now obsolete), ACEA C5 (you can actually run this in a 2021 Supra turbo), and MB229.71 approved. And you can buy it at Walmart.
 

Burla

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m1 likely the most consistent oil, certainly up there.

If you like the valvoline, there is this thing that's called um let me think about it, lubegard biotech, that would give you confidence in that formula.

More to oil then moly? hell no :)


Seriously though, when we consider hemi's only, moly is certainly a beneficial additive. If you see infineon's white paper on moly in engine oil, you see how important it is at reducing friction, but it even gets better why? Because we have engines that are prone to tick, and in those engines the lack of the reduction in friction actual shows up both as tick and as heavy wear numbers. These ticks provide the conditions needed for the moly plate, as in they are higher pressure, one might even call them "Extreme Pressure". My strategy is to run extreme pressure EP additives in EP conditions, go figure.
 

Rod Knock

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@Burla, what is the tick exactly? I'm not talking about a seized lifter that sounds like a bang or sheared manifold bolt. Neither of the two can be fixed by Moly or good oil, or both. Can it be a lifter having too much play in the bore?

Did you see my bit about MS-6395/MS-12663? I wonder if any oils ever get tested in cabs running HEMIs in Vegas.
 

Badger 13

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I think I have read every oil thread on this forum, and really appreciate all the information. And I agree with so many that Burla is an oil guru. I may go with RL for the truck and find something better for the Wrangler. I never go over 4,000 miles on oil changes on either vehicle. It is nice to hear all the opinions , suggestions, and comments w/o folks getting "testy", and some good humor thrown into the mix. I'll keep reading since it will be awhile before the next oil change.
Thanks again.
 

Rod Knock

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Case in point about what I said about low-density base stocks. Check out the following UOA of Quaker State Euro 5W-40:

qs-uoa.jpeg

In 3724 miles this oil is almost as thin as an ILSAC 5/10W-30. And it wasn't contaminated with fuel, it rather sheared down because the VII burned up and turned to crap. This is what happens when you use low-density base stock in an attempt to increase the cold flow and fuel economy characteristics of motor oil. This is the same oil recommended for EcoDiesel. This won't fare well during a 10,000 OCI in an EcoDiesel, guaranteed. This is also the type of oil that makes for a noisy engine that came with loose tolerances from the factory.

Here is the direct link to the thread on BITOG: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...ned-etc-60-8k-qsud-euro-5w40-3-7k-oci.342241/

Now that I know, I'll stick to Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in my wife's Santa Fe.

@Burla Lubegard Biotech doesn't change the viscosity of any motor oil because the carrier oil is of higher density than any motor oil on the face of the earth.
 

Burla

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I think I have read every oil thread on this forum, and really appreciate all the information. And I agree with so many that Burla is an oil guru. I may go with RL for the truck and find something better for the Wrangler. I never go over 4,000 miles on oil changes on either vehicle. It is nice to hear all the opinions , suggestions, and comments w/o folks getting "testy", and some good humor thrown into the mix. I'll keep reading since it will be awhile before the next oil change.
Thanks again.

You are welcome, the true value here what we we did together, every single guy who bought into this issue we have by doing a lubrication strategy. The results are what they are, it is at least possible to kill hemi tick and perhaps save a cam just with an oil change or additive. Notice that of this group that previously had hemi tick, not so many cam fails if any, funny huh? How many cam fails would there been in these ticking hemi's if they didn't kill the tick? I'd say we have saved some cams, at least prolonged their life, and provided a measure of hope to guys that develop hemi tick. No not 100%, never thought it would be, but the success rate is mind blowing.
 

Rod Knock

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You are welcome, the true value here what we we did together, every single guy who bought into this issue we have by doing a lubrication strategy. The results are what they are, it is at least possible to kill hemi tick and perhaps save a cam just with an oil change or additive. Notice that of this group that previously had hemi tick, not so many cam fails if any, funny huh? How many cam fails would there been in these ticking hemi's if they didn't kill the tick? I'd say we have saved some cams, at least prolonged their life, and provided a measure of hope to guys that develop hemi tick. No not 100%, never thought it would be, but the success rate is mind blowing.

This is where I learned about Lubegard and Red Line as well, especially from @Burla. My recent posts have more to do with the fact that I'm trying to learn more about how motor oils are formulated and dive deeper into the issue.
It would be nice to get to some definitive answers. Chrysler knows, but like every major corporation, they keep quiet and would rather that no one found out what's really going on.
 

Rod Knock

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@Burla, you were right about 5W-30 being Red Line's best offering. The second best would be 5W-40. That's about all I would run from them in a HEMI. But you were dead on about 5W-30. Take a look:

Screen Shot 2021-06-12 at 12.30.04 PM.png
 

Travis8352

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Say what you want about Mobil 1, but they've been consistent in their formulations. Not only that, but they've been ahead of the curve when it comes to LSPI and timing chain wear. Castrol is the second company that comes to mind when it comes to consistency, though not as consistent or ahead of the curve as Mobil 1.

The problem with Mobil 1 is segmentation, too many similar products. For example, they have four (yes four) 0W-20 oils. One of them (ESP X2 0W-20) exists only to fulfill ACEA C5, MB 229.71, and a few VW approvals. It's made with a higher density of basestock than Mobil 1 EP 0W-20. Contrast that with Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 that is Dexos 1 approved, ACEA A1/B1 (now obsolete), ACEA C5 (you can actually run this in a 2021 Supra turbo), and MB229.71 approved. And you can buy it at Walmart.
Thats what i like about mobil 1 is their consistency. I agree they have way to many product lines and last year they added truck and suv back into their lineup. Why have 5w40 fs euro and formula M 5w40? And now they have a mobil full synthetic line to along with m1, m1 hm, m1 ep, m1 ep hm, m1 esp, and m1 afe. They need to cut back
 

Ramit355

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One more thing: I can't remember ever dealing with an engine as sensitive to the type and viscosity of motor oil as the HEMI.

Hey man.... Not same subject exactly as you quoted above, but the following is a quote you had made:

"small filter is only used on the trucks, not the SRT vehicles. Their excuse is that the big filter won't fit on the trucks due to the electronic power steering, which is BS. The small filter can starve the top portion of the engine of oil, which has poor lubrication to begin with."

I agree with you most certainly except one thing the SRT filter (Big Filter) will fit the threads to screw on to the motor on the Ram okay, but I cannot get the big filter past the power steering unit so how are getting past the power steering unit if I may ask? I hate using the small dinky filter. No disrespect intended. :)
 

Travis8352

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I think I have read every oil thread on this forum, and really appreciate all the information. And I agree with so many that Burla is an oil guru. I may go with RL for the truck and find something better for the Wrangler. I never go over 4,000 miles on oil changes on either vehicle. It is nice to hear all the opinions , suggestions, and comments w/o folks getting "testy", and some good humor thrown into the mix. I'll keep reading since it will be awhile before the next oil change.
Thanks again.
Thats why i say this is the best forum ive ever been on. Bitog being the worst
 
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