Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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Rod Knock

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In 2021, asking $60K for a half-ton truck with a rattlebox of an engine is a very American thing to do. I wonder though, who's worse? Those asking for such obscene amounts of money for trucks with poorly built engines, or those willing to burry themselves in debt to buy one. Because that only encourages Chrysler to build more of the same and not take responsibility for anything. Hmm... I wonder...
 

RamHemi18

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The valvetrain on these HEMIs is very noisy. The sound insulation on 4th gen. RAMs is crap. The only thing that quiets down the valvetrain is more viscous and denser oil. You can dump boatloads of Lubegard in there if you want to. Can you hear your valvetrain at 2500~3000 rpm when the engine is not under any load? Find a hill, put it in second, and let it roll down. You should start hearing it. I'd be curious if you and others that run 5W-20 ILSAC oil can hear it. On the 5th gen RAMs, Chrysler beefed up the sound insulation in the firewall, so the valvetrain doesn't resonate anymore. But when you pop the hood, the HEMIs still sound trashy on thin oil.

I guess for me. It comes to this: do I use the thin oil and enjoy the fuel savings or do I use a thick oil and potentially prolong the engine's life. Lubegard is good stuff, but it doesn't do what some people think it does because it was developed during the API SJ/SL days, and that was a long time ago. The only magic I think Lubegard does is that the Moly gets attached to the needle bearings inside the roller lifters. But that's a wild guess on my, and I have ZERO proof for this assumption.
Honestly after the oil change the engine seems to idle smoother and I don't notice any engine noise. I would get the occasional tick here and there after it has been sitting or a quick minute engine idle and shut off. I haven't heard it since the new fill up. Got a tick right after the oil change since the lifters were dry but nothing after that. I even did a few quick runs and shut down. No tick. I will continue to monitor how this performs for me. So far I have to say I am happy with QSFS (I liked the QSUD acronym better!!) And lubegard.
 

Travis8352

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Which 5W-20 doesn't make it sound like a "thresher"? PUP and PP 5W-20 (which might be the same oil in a different jug) make the engine just as noisy. I'm about to go to Castrol EDGE 0W-40, because M1 FS 0W-40, while an improvement, wasn't that big of an improvement, but the MPG sure saw a dip. If I take an MPG hit, at least I want a nice sounding motor :)

Due to their pursuit of better fuel mileage, Chrysler built the 5.7 cam phasing system and MDS around 5W-20. Unfortunately, only low viscosity oil can allow these to react fast enough to engine loads and demands. I'm 110% sure that if anyone went to an even thinner oil in a HEMI, the fuel savings would be even bigger. However, the valve train wasn't built for low viscosity oil.

Lubegard Bio-Tech is a nice additive for cleaning an engine but doesn't do much else. I've seen it before remove varnish left from cheap motor oil. However, it took several thousand miles to do its job. That's because the friction modifier needs to be part of the oil formulation to avoid competing for the surface, like Moly in RedLine, for example.

Castrol EDGE 0W-40 uses a Titanium-based friction modifier. As a result, it activates at a lower temperature than Moly-based friction modifiers. Are there others here running Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in their HEMIs?

@Hemi395 What's your take on this?

I got a magnetic drain plug, and every time I drain the oil, I still get a few larger metallic particles that I can see sparkling in the sunlight. I'm at 36,000 miles. Could that be debris leftover from the
Do you go hammer down and get that fuel economy number, or do you go 55? Because eI get 19mpg while hammering it and doing 80~85. It's like now it can run the camphaser properly and the MDS as it has enough oil flow, given the thinner oil and larger filter. It sounds like crap though.

It's with with 0W-40 the computer doesn't put the cam in any kind of efficiency mode. It's more pronounced when I tow as it drops sharply to 12 mpg when towing anything above 1000 lbs.
Thats with cruise set at 62 for 2.5 hours or so. Occassional stop lights and ocassional pass and when i pass its hammer down.
do you get 19 mpg hammering it with 5w20 or is that with 0w40? My mpg is unchanged 5w20-0w40. No
 

Travis8352

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A 5.7 HEMI will sound like a rust bucket filled with bolts and hauled by a monkey no matter what 5W-20 you dump in it. I tried Castrol EDGE EP 5W-20 last year before I went to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and it sounded just as bad as it sounds with Mobil 1 EP 5W-20. The only difference was that back then I didn't do any mods to the truck and was running the small filter, so my MPG was just average. I had to baby it to get 19 mpg on 5W-20 back then. That's no longer the case. But it sounds awful.
Are you going to run redline next or go back to m1 0w40? Or edge 0w40? Thoughts on "german castrol" 0w30?
 

HEMIMANN

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I'm thinking about ECM programming. It's not hard for the ECM to detect if you're running a higher viscosity oil in the 5.7 and if that's the case, then it won't give you maximum efficiency. All it needs is a flow meter (the oil pump itself), oil pressure sensor, and oil temperature sensor. If it's not in the range it expects it to be, then it might not even bother with the cam phaser and/or MDS. And we don't have a way of knowing except the inexplicable drop in fuel economy that I see with running a thicker oil. Yes, Chrysler might have been that sneaky. Maybe their motivation was to limit the truck's capabilities and in case anyone tried to use a better oil to cut the gas mileage. It might be for the same reason that they cook these engines to death when they don't really need to run as hot as they do. I wouldn't put it past Chrysler.

The drop in temperature and the larger oil filter might help as well. As the engine is no longer heat soaked, there is no reason for the ECM to back down on anything now. I was pushing uphill on the highway doing 80. On an 85F day, on the same stretch, the instant MPG gauge showed 7mpg, now it was show 12mpg, and I had my foot down.

I am not talking placebo here. It's easy to get a placebo when you baby the truck. By I didn't baby it during this test, I gave it the beans. The engine sounds trashy though on this oil. The valvetrain is very noisy. I might even have a cold piston slap.

When I start the truck cold I hear a noise from the right cylinder bank. It sounds like gently tapping a metal pipe with a spoon. It goes away completely only when the engine is at operating temperature and ran for a while. With 0W-40 it was less noticeable and it was going away way quicker. If I sit down at the rear of the truck I can hear it in the right exhaust pipe. I wonder what it is. What do you think it is?

From the many posts describing similar phenomenon, it sounds like a broken exhaust manifold bolt(s). The Hemi exhaust manifold attachment design is known defective. Many experience bolt failure(s) due to manifold warping over time via thermal cycling warpage. It's too late to demand a new manifold design - they ain't gonna do it.

The solution choices are: (1) have Ram keep replacing manifolds under warranty, (2) pay someone to plane a warped manifold flat, (3) install long tube headers (violates EPA & many state non-tampering regulations).

I've never heard of an engine oil viscosity detector beyond pressure gauging, nor a closed loop feedback system to the engine controller. I've been out of the biz for a number of years. Is this something new?
 

HEMIMANN

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@phoenixgenesys - when Hemi Gen III came out, nobody knew about the valve lifter and tick failures, much less the exhaust manifold bolt breaking. At that time, Ford & GM both had serious engine issues - Ford with their unreliable ecoboost whiz motors, and GM with their cheapened power cylinders pumping oil. Many of us are ex-GM and ex-Ford buyers. Most of us aren't fan-boy types, we carefully consider what we're doing before we buy.

Many of us came to the conclusion that Hemi was the least objectionable engine, along with the superb vehicle NVH. Most Hemis are very capable of surviving if the owner knows what they're doing as per this Forum.
 

Travis8352

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@phoenixgenesys - when Hemi Gen III came out, nobody knew about the valve lifter and tick failures, much less the exhaust manifold bolt breaking. At that time, Ford & GM both had serious engine issues - Ford with their unreliable ecoboost whiz motors, and GM with their cheapened power cylinders pumping oil. Many of us are ex-GM and ex-Ford buyers. Most of us aren't fan-boy types, we carefully consider what we're doing before we buy.

Many of us came to the conclusion that Hemi was the least objectionable engine, along with the superb vehicle NVH. Most Hemis are very capable of surviving if the owner knows what they're doing as per this Forum.
Im still a gm guy but all my research lead me to believe the ram was finally a better built truck. Only thing i didnt research was the engine because my belief was the hemi was bulletproof. What a mistake. What i gained is a vast amount of oil knowledge what i lost was unknown amount of sleep over this issue
 

Rod Knock

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Thats with cruise set at 62 for 2.5 hours or so. Occassional stop lights and ocassional pass and when i pass its hammer down.
do you get 19 mpg hammering it with 5w20 or is that with 0w40? My mpg is unchanged 5w20-0w40. No
I get 19mpg hammering it with 5W-20. The engine is very responsive now, even more so because of the 180F thermostat and grille shutter delete.

Honestly after the oil change the engine seems to idle smoother and I don't notice any engine noise. I would get the occasional tick here and there after it has been sitting or a quick minute engine idle and shut off. I haven't heard it since the new fill up. Got a tick right after the oil change since the lifters were dry but nothing after that. I even did a few quick runs and shut down. No tick. I will continue to monitor how this performs for me. So far I have to say I am happy with QSFS (I liked the QSUD acronym better!!) And lubegard.
My HEMI is buttery smooth on 5W-20, however, the valvetrain noise is more pronounced when the RPMs are up and there is no load on the engine. Come to think of it, it was more pronounced with the 0W-40 as well before the grille shutter delete and 180F thermostat when the engine was at an operating temperature. In this scenario, 0W-40 is at around 16 to 18 CST most of the time, and that will hide a lot of noise. It doesn't mean that it protects better though. MOFT is a complicated thing and thicker isn't always better. I achieved what I wanted by running the engine cooler by using 0W-40 I'm doubling down on my efforts now, kind of negating some of its benefits. 0W-40 will run about 10F hotter than 5W-20 at the same engine operating temperature of 185, which in turn raises the coolant temp to over 190F at times. So it works against me now. It's either grille shutter delete and cooler thermostat, or thicker oil. Both don't work very well together.

Im still a gm guy but all my research lead me to believe the ram was finally a better built truck. Only thing i didnt research was the engine because my belief was the hemi was bulletproof. What a mistake. What i gained is a vast amount of oil knowledge what i lost was unknown amount of sleep over this issue
Thank God you didn't buy a Ford. The lifter issue is a materials issue. This isn't something I pulled out of my but. I have someone in my family who is a materials engineer and I talked to him at length about the type of steel to make bearings and other components, and how the automotive business is cutting corners. The fact that it took GM and Ford this long to come around is infuriating. I also discussed this issue with others who had a more objective view on this issue, and the consensus is that it's a materials issue. Also, idling this motor with 5W-20 when the oil temp is at 220F or above is not that great of an idea as MOFT might not be maintained between the camshaft and roller lifter. This issue is not as simple as "throw some RedLine at it." Or just run a thicker oil. If you made it this far and your engine is running fine then you're okay. And if you don't want to touch the thermostat then keep running 0W-40, it will serve you well. I effectively modified how the ECM interprets the engines operating temperature and I found out that it's reaching its maximum efficiency now while running 5W-20. The only issue you might one day run in is exhaust manifold bolts due to the high temperatures.

From the many posts describing similar phenomenon, it sounds like a broken exhaust manifold bolt(s). The Hemi exhaust manifold attachment design is known defective. Many experience bolt failure(s) due to manifold warping over time via thermal cycling warpage. It's too late to demand a new manifold design - they ain't gonna do it.

The solution choices are: (1) have Ram keep replacing manifolds under warranty, (2) pay someone to plane a warped manifold flat, (3) install long tube headers (violates EPA & many state non-tampering regulations).

I've never heard of an engine oil viscosity detector beyond pressure gauging, nor a closed loop feedback system to the engine controller. I've been out of the biz for a number of years. Is this something new?
I think that the noise on the passenger side is coming from the catalytic convertor. It doesn't sound like a piston slap or lifters. These HEMIs make so many noises that they can make people paranoid. I need to go under the truck with it running and use my stethoscope to listen to the catalytic convertor. It's not the exhaust manifolds, they look clean and seal well. I crawled and checked everywhere.

The manifolds can be replaced with shorty headers with grade 8 bolts which can hook up to the existing catalytic converters. They will also provide a boost in low-end torque without altering emissions. That's what I'm going for. Or I could always install the headers from the 6.4 HEMI.

The Hemis have one built-in. The 5.7 expects to find 5W-20 and the 6.4 expects to find 0W-40. By running RL 5W-30 your truck thinks that it's 0W-40 since they are very close. It's easy to detect viscosity for an ECM and they could even warn the driver if the oil viscosity is too low and MOFT is not maintained, but why would they? The HEMI has a variable oil pump. The only difference I get in oil pressure is at idle. It's lower at idle now than it was with the 0W-40. As soon as I touch the throttle is up there, and with the bigger oil filter, it's even livelier than before. Think about it this way: At 200F more 5W-20 will flow than 0W-40 at 1500 RPM because the engine is maintaining the same 53 PSI. And it knows, because if the oil pump wasn't variable, then I would have two different oil pressures with two different oils at the same RPM.

The only reason I can think of that Chrysler might back down the engine efficiency with a thicker oil for the RAM 1500 is because they designed it as a half-ton truck. They already run it incredibly hot, probably for the same reason: they don't want people to use it for any kind of heavy-duty work. Instead, those who want a better truck should buy 2500/3500 or bigger. They do the same thing with the ZF transmission in the RAM 1500 by running it at some crazy temperatures. What do you think?

@phoenixgenesys - when Hemi Gen III came out, nobody knew about the valve lifter and tick failures, much less the exhaust manifold bolt breaking. At that time, Ford & GM both had serious engine issues - Ford with their unreliable ecoboost whiz motors, and GM with their cheapened power cylinders pumping oil. Many of us are ex-GM and ex-Ford buyers. Most of us aren't fan-boy types, we carefully consider what we're doing before we buy.

Many of us came to the conclusion that Hemi was the least objectionable engine, along with the superb vehicle NVH. Most Hemis are very capable of surviving if the owner knows what they're doing as per this Forum.
My comment about people paying $60K for a middle of the roam RAM 1500 was not targeted at you. That's about how much a Big Horn equipped like mine costs now which is ridiculous. My truck with sunroof, 4WD, 5.7 HEMI, 8 Speed, trailer brake, climate control, 7-inch EVIC, 8.4 U-Connect, the middle console was $35K in June 2016. We might have inflation, but such a price hike is ridiculous. Nothing will change until people stop borrowing money to pay stupid prices like that for a light-duty truck. If it was at least a 2500 or 3500 that's well equipped then I would understand. But not this. Even the Chevy Silverado with the puny 2.7L Turbo 4 cylinder went from $32K to $45K in less than a year. Hurray for the banks, what can I say?

[Edit]

@Travis8352 Castrol 0W-30 is made in Belgium now, it's hard to get and expensive and a hair thinner than the 0W-40 you can find at Walmart. So why bother? There is a reason why no one wants to make ACEA A3/B4 0W-30: because they can't get it past API SL so very few vehicles need it.

RedLine 5W-20 would probably be an excellent option for me now. I get oil that won't shear, it would be in the viscosity that the HEMI likes and it has all that Moly goodness and ZDDP that's so good for the engine. But it's so expensive!
 
Last edited:

Travis8352

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I get 19mpg hammering it with 5W-20. The engine is very responsive now, even more so because of the 180F thermostat and grille shutter delete.


My HEMI is buttery smooth on 5W-20, however, the valvetrain noise is more pronounced when the RPMs are up and there is no load on the engine. Come to think of it, it was more pronounced with the 0W-40 as well before the grille shutter delete and 180F thermostat when the engine was at an operating temperature. In this scenario, 0W-40 is at around 16 to 18 CST most of the time, and that will hide a lot of noise. It doesn't mean that it protects better though. MOFT is a complicated thing and thicker isn't always better. I achieved what I wanted by running the engine cooler by using 0W-40 I'm doubling down on my efforts now, kind of negating some of its benefits. 0W-40 will run about 10F hotter than 5W-20 at the same engine operating temperature of 185, which in turn raises the coolant temp to over 190F at times. So it works against me now. It's either grille shutter delete and cooler thermostat, or thicker oil. Both don't work very well together.


Thank God you didn't buy a Ford. The lifter issue is a materials issue. This isn't something I pulled out of my but. I have someone in my family who is a materials engineer and I talked to him at length about the type of steel to make bearings and other components, and how the automotive business is cutting corners. The fact that it took GM and Ford this long to come around is infuriating. I also discussed this issue with others who had a more objective view on this issue, and the consensus is that it's a materials issue. Also, idling this motor with 5W-20 when the oil temp is at 220F or above is not that great of an idea as MOFT might not be maintained between the camshaft and roller lifter. This issue is not as simple as "throw some RedLine at it." Or just run a thicker oil. If you made it this far and your engine is running fine then you're okay. And if you don't want to touch the thermostat then keep running 0W-40, it will serve you well. I effectively modified how the ECM interprets the engines operating temperature and I found out that it's reaching its maximum efficiency now while running 5W-20. The only issue you might one day run in is exhaust manifold bolts due to the high temperatures.


I think that the noise on the passenger side is coming from the catalytic convertor. It doesn't sound like a piston slap or lifters. These HEMIs make so many noises that they can make people paranoid. I need to go under the truck with it running and use my stethoscope to listen to the catalytic convertor. It's not the exhaust manifolds, they look clean and seal well. I crawled and checked everywhere.

The manifolds can be replaced with shorty headers with grade 8 bolts which can hook up to the existing catalytic converters. They will also provide a boost in low-end torque without altering emissions. That's what I'm going for. Or I could always install the headers from the 6.4 HEMI.

The Hemis have one built-in. The 5.7 expects to find 5W-20 and the 6.4 expects to find 0W-40. By running RL 5W-30 your truck thinks that it's 0W-40 since they are very close. It's easy to detect viscosity for an ECM and they could even warn the driver if the oil viscosity is too low and MOFT is not maintained, but why would they? The HEMI has a variable oil pump. The only difference I get in oil pressure is at idle. It's lower at idle now than it was with the 0W-40. As soon as I touch the throttle is up there, and with the bigger oil filter, it's even livelier than before. Think about it this way: At 200F more 5W-20 will flow than 0W-40 at 1500 RPM because the engine is maintaining the same 53 PSI. And it knows, because if the oil pump wasn't variable, then I would have two different oil pressures with two different oils at the same RPM.

The only reason I can think of that Chrysler might back down the engine efficiency with a thicker oil for the RAM 1500 is because they designed it as a half-ton truck. They already run it incredibly hot, probably for the same reason: they don't want people to use it for any kind of heavy-duty work. Instead, those who want a better truck should buy 2500/3500 or bigger. They do the same thing with the ZF transmission in the RAM 1500 by running it at some crazy temperatures. What do you think?


My comment about people paying $60K for a middle of the roam RAM 1500 was not targeted at you. That's about how much a Big Horn equipped like mine costs now which is ridiculous. My truck with sunroof, 4WD, 5.7 HEMI, 8 Speed, trailer brake, climate control, 7-inch EVIC, 8.4 U-Connect, the middle console was $35K in June 2016. We might have inflation, but such a price hike is ridiculous. Nothing will change until people stop borrowing money to pay stupid prices like that for a light-duty truck. If it was at least a 2500 or 3500 that's well equipped then I would understand. But not this. Even the Chevy Silverado with the puny 2.7L Turbo 4 cylinder went from $32K to $45K in less than a year. Hurray for the banks, what can I say?

[Edit]

@Travis8352 Castrol 0W-30 is made in Belgium now, it's hard to get and expensive and a hair thinner than the 0W-40 you can find at Walmart. So why bother? There is a reason why no one wants to make ACEA A3/B4 0W-30: because they can't get it past API SL so very few vehicles need it.

RedLine 5W-20 would probably be an excellent option for me now. I get oil that won't shear, it would be in the viscosity that the HEMI likes and it has all that Moly goodness and ZDDP that's so good for the engine. But it's so expensive!
I already have some broken exhaust bolts on mine.
Yeah thats why i didnt go with the 0w30 its pricey. Might as well use redline
 

Rod Knock

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I already have some broken exhaust bolts on mine.
Yeah thats why i didnt go with the 0w30 its pricey. Might as well use redline
Shorty headers and 8 grade bolts and you're golden. A 180F thermostat would do you good, just don't do the grille shutter delete.
 

Rod Knock

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@Travis8352

It seems like RedLine 0W-20 and 0W-30 could technically get a "Resource Conserving" designation if they could pass API approval that is. Their respective HTFS is ~2.0, so like every other ordinary oil, while RL 0W-40 is 2.34, so basically like M1 FS 0W-40. Heck, Castrol EDGE 0W-40 is 2.43. RL 5W-20 is 2.65.
 
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Travis8352

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@Travis8352

It seems like RedLine 0W-20 and 0W-30 could technically get a "Resource Conserving" designation if they could pass API approval that is. Their respective HTFS is ~2.0, so like every other ordinary oil, while RL 0W-40 is 2.34, so basically like M1 FS 0W-40. Heck, Castrol EDGE 0W-40 is 2.43. RL 5W-20 is 2.65.
0w20 redline would be a good winter choice for me i think with 5w30 for summer
 

Hemi395

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Which 5W-20 doesn't make it sound like a "thresher"? PUP and PP 5W-20 (which might be the same oil in a different jug) make the engine just as noisy. I'm about to go to Castrol EDGE 0W-40, because M1 FS 0W-40, while an improvement, wasn't that big of an improvement, but the MPG sure saw a dip. If I take an MPG hit, at least I want a nice sounding motor :)

Due to their pursuit of better fuel mileage, Chrysler built the 5.7 cam phasing system and MDS around 5W-20. Unfortunately, only low viscosity oil can allow these to react fast enough to engine loads and demands. I'm 110% sure that if anyone went to an even thinner oil in a HEMI, the fuel savings would be even bigger. However, the valve train wasn't built for low viscosity oil.

Lubegard Bio-Tech is a nice additive for cleaning an engine but doesn't do much else. I've seen it before remove varnish left from cheap motor oil. However, it took several thousand miles to do its job. That's because the friction modifier needs to be part of the oil formulation to avoid competing for the surface, like Moly in RedLine, for example.

Castrol EDGE 0W-40 uses a Titanium-based friction modifier. As a result, it activates at a lower temperature than Moly-based friction modifiers. Are there others here running Castrol EDGE 0W-40 in their HEMIs?

@Hemi395 What's your take on this?

I got a magnetic drain plug, and every time I drain the oil, I still get a few larger metallic particles that I can see sparkling in the sunlight. I'm at 36,000 miles. Could that be debris leftover from the assembly process?
Man I hate not getting notifications anymore lol

Anyways I've been using a filter mag for several oil changes now and there's always some metallic "fuzz" on the inside of the filter housing but no big chunks. And my UOAs have always had relatively low iron numbers so I'm assuming what we're both seeing is normal...
 

Hemi395

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Shorty headers and 8 grade bolts and you're golden. A 180F thermostat would do you good, just don't do the grille shutter delete.
Yeah, about shories lol. I just pulled my JBA shorties off because the passengers side had a cracked weld in the collector. Went back with oem manifolds/gaskets/hardware and its nice and quiet now.

One thing to note is FCA changed the rear 2 studs that normally break to a different part number than the front 2. Time will tell if they hold up...
 

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0w20 redline would be a good winter choice for me i think with 5w30 for summer

Why not 0W-30? HTHS is still 3.4, compared to 0W-20 HTHS 2.9. There can be very warm days in wintertime, and some guys still tow in winter. I just tow snowmobiles, but still.

5W-30 HTHS is 3.7, btw, and lower NOACK. Which is why I insist on it for summer.
 

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pennzoil 0-40 really hard to find dealership said to use mobil 1 until I told him it doesn't meet spec wtf they should know that wtf thats why I wrench my own ****
 

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Why not 0W-30? HTHS is still 3.4, compared to 0W-20 HTHS 2.9. There can be very warm days in wintertime, and some guys still tow in winter. I just tow snowmobiles, but still.

5W-30 HTHS is 3.7, btw, and lower NOACK. Which is why I insist on it for summer.
I dont tow at all in winter but good point. 0w30 woild be a better choice
 

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pennzoil 0-40 really hard to find dealership said to use mobil 1 until I told him it doesn't meet spec wtf they should know that wtf thats why I wrench my own ****
They know that Chrysler MS-12633 is a BS spec. I know it. Show me please where it's published. Lubrizol doesn't even acknowledge any of this nonsense Chrysler specs because they're just copy/pasting API SN/SN Plus requirements. The reason why they have them is to be able to deny warranty claims if they want to. The US govt. It could put Chrysler in their place if they cared using the Magnusson Moss act. But they don't care.

Anyway, Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40 is a better oil than Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. When FCA signed with Shell, they invented MS-12633 and only approved PUP 0W-40. All the other oils say, "Recommended for MS-12633, not approved for MS-12633." They allowed Castrol to recommend EDGE 0W-40 for trucks still, but not SRT applications.

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Rod Knock

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Man I hate not getting notifications anymore lol

Anyways I've been using a filter mag for several oil changes now and there's always some metallic "fuzz" on the inside of the filter housing but no big chunks. And my UOAs have always had relatively low iron numbers so I'm assuming what we're both seeing is normal...
I would love to know where this debris is coming from. You do realize if that gets into a lifter, or worse, into an MDS lifter, that lifter is toast, right? It seems like having magnets on the oil filter and drain plug does more good an all these fancy oils like Red Line. That would explain why they have all those screens everywhere inside the engine. The only place that iron like that could come from is from the valvetrain. Can you think of any other place inside the engine?

Yeah, about shories lol. I just pulled my JBA shorties off because the passengers side had a cracked weld in the collector. Went back with oem manifolds/gaskets/hardware and its nice and quiet now.

One thing to note is FCA changed the rear 2 studs that normally break to a different part number than the front 2. Time will tell if they hold up...
I think that the 6.4 SRT headers fit on the 5.7. Of course, the rest of the system might also have to be swapped.
 

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