Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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Travis8352

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They're virtually identical except I believe the inlet holes are different....

I've cut several open before and they're definitely a high quality filter.
6 inlet holes in the one i bought but i have 3 used wix xp 57060 filters and 2 have 8 holes and 1 has 7
 

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It seems to be a bit taller than the PBL24651. I barely got my tiny inch-pound torque wrench in there to tighten it to 8 ft-lb, so I wonder if I will be able to do it with the WIX. If you're wondering if 8 ft-lb is too much for a spin-on filter, it's not. It's what Hyundai specs for the 2.4L Santa Fe at the low end, and IIRC it can go up to 12 ft-lb. So it's nothing on a HEMI. I started torquing it after the PBL24651 gasket failed on me.
I cant even fit a filter wrench around mine but j only made a few attempts and just tightened by hand
 

Travis8352

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I use an oil filter cap wrench, and it's a pain. The Purolator that failed on me was tightened by hand. It's a lesson I learned the hard way. Good thing it was parked home when it started leaking. It would have sucked to be out and about with it like that.

As far as Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is concerned, it's not bad oil. Going by approvals, it's got the same approvals as Castrol EDGE Euro 0W-40. Mobil calls it track oil, also suitable for street use. PUP SRT 0W-40 would be an ACEA C3 / Dexos 2 oil if Pennzoil ever bothered to claim ACEA C3 and get a Dexos 2 approval. It's like Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40. It would be interesting to try Mobil 1 ESP 0W-40 in a HEMI. I am not into bashing any oil. I believe the evaporative loss with Mobil 1 0W-40 is slightly worse than Castrol. PUP 0W-40 is expensive even on sale. I'd rather get RedLine 5W-30 if I were going to spend money on PUP 0W-40.

@Hemi395 I'm curious about something: any time you switch away from RedLine your HEMI tick returns? If that's the case then it's a friction-related issue. What I find interesting and can't explain is that it takes several hundred miles for the tick to go away again when you get back on Red Line.

@OilDoesntCureTick - please don't be bashful and tell us more about your engineering career, how we're all using the wrong oil, and how Red Line doesn't quiet down the HEMI tick. By the way, it's been known to quiet down the valvetrain on some European Mercedes and BMW engines as well. If those people would just run some Castrol, Liqui Moly, or Mobil 1 in those engines... Those BMW owners should be ashamed of themselves for running RedLine Oil, I tell ya...
I thought about trying mobil 1 esp 0w40 but at the price i might as well use redline. Esp.x3 0w40 would be nice to try to as its a bit thicker than the other 2 0w40 m1 oils

i believe the edge 0w40 is probabaly the better oil when compared to fs 0w40

what are your thoughts on edge vs edge ep?
 

Rod Knock

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I thought about trying mobil 1 esp 0w40 but at the price i might as well use redline. Esp.x3 0w40 would be nice to try to as its a bit thicker than the other 2 0w40 m1 oils

i believe the edge 0w40 is probabaly the better oil when compared to fs 0w40

what are your thoughts on edge vs edge ep?
Once you go past the Mobil 1 products you can find at Walmart, their stuff gets really expensive. Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 is very good stuff and excelent for a lot of small vehicles, as it carries an MB229.71 approval. But it's hilariously expensive. Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 carries the same approval and you can get that one at Walmart.

EDGE vs EDGE EP: as far as I can tell, the entire EDGE EP lineup has the same additive system as the EDGE EP 0W-20, and theoretically, they could all get that MB229.71 approval, since even the 5W-30 has a HTHS of 2.9. I use 0W-20 in my brothersl's 2020 Sonata and 5W-30 in my 2018 Santa Fe. It takes at least 3000 miles for it in the Sonata do barely leave any dark marks on a shop towel when I check the oil level, and about 1500 miles in then Santa Fe... That awesome GDI soot.

I believe that Castrol cuts some corners with the regular EDGE. In the past they used a different additive system in the black bottle EDGE. Some recent UOAs shiw that it's the same additive system now. Knowing Castrol, I wouldn't put it past them to sell the same stuff in both product lines, bit I don't know that for sure. For a out $3 per 5 quart jug I just buy the EP.

I only tried Castrol EDGE EP 5W-20 in the HEMI once, and it was just as loud as with Mobil 1 EP 5W-20. These are thin oils that don't belong in a HEMI and don't have an additive package for an ancient pushrod engine. Stick to an ACEA A3 oil, that's what I do.

As far as EDGE 0W-40 vs Mobil 0W-40: The HEMI ran smooth on both. The only difference eInnoticed was some oil consumption when towing with the Mobil 1 0W-40. But hey, I scored six 5-quart jugs of Castrol EDGE 0W-40 for $99, so there is that. So I got plenty of it now. I think I got like 16 jugs total, I have to recount them.

Castrol kept busy in the past couple of years and updated their formulations. I think that SOPUS has the messiest product lineup currently, as they keep moving stuff around. Any decent Mobil 1 product is expensive and hard to get. Castrol is the most accessible and offers a whide range of products that you can actually buy at a reasonable price. Their 0W-40 is made in Belgium for example. Their 5W-40 was just updated recently, and they have a 5W-30 that's an ACEA A3 oil that you can buy at Walmart. My dad has always been a Castrol guy, and he was never pasionate about motor oil. He just used it because it worked well for him.

Before I forget: throw a bottle of 15oz of Lubegard in there to clean out your HEMI. Just to make sure you don't have any metal flakes stuck to anything..if anything, Lumbegard cleans well, but you have to run it for a few thousand miles for it to do it's thing. You might even like how it looks and smells, lol. When you pour it in a 5 quart jug and mix it with fresh oil, it turns the oil to a blue-greenish color, it's unreal.
 
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MontanaHandyman

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No change in idle oil pressure since going to the big wix xp 57899 over the small purolator boss filter
When I switched from the small filter (using Fram and Amsoil filters) to the larger RP 20-820, my idle oil pressure jumped from 34 to 44 at operating temp. Running pressure stayed consistent at 55 regardless of oil filter used.
 

Travis8352

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Once you go past the Mobil 1 products you can find at Walmart, their stuff gets really expensive. Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 is very good stuff and excelent for a lot of small vehicles, as it carries an MB229.71 approval. But it's hilariously expensive. Castrol EDGE EP 0W-20 carries the same approval and you can get that one at Walmart.

EDGE vs EDGE EP: as far as I can tell, the entire EDGE EP lineup has the same additive system as the EDGE EP 0W-20, and theoretically, they could all get that MB229.71 approval, since even the 5W-30 has a HTHS of 2.9. I use 0W-20 in my brothersl's 2020 Sonata and 5W-30 in my 2018 Santa Fe. It takes at least 3000 miles for it in the Sonata do barely leave any dark marks on a shop towel when I check the oil level, and about 1500 miles in then Santa Fe... That awesome GDI soot.

I believe that Castrol cuts some corners with the regular EDGE. In the past they used a different additive system in the black bottle EDGE. Some recent UOAs shiw that it's the same additive system now. Knowing Castrol, I wouldn't put it past them to sell the same stuff in both product lines, bit I don't know that for sure. For a out $3 per 5 quart jug I just buy the EP.

I only tried Castrol EDGE EP 5W-20 in the HEMI once, and it was just as loud as with Mobil 1 EP 5W-20. These are thin oils that don't belong in a HEMI and don't have an additive package for an ancient pushrod engine. Stick to an ACEA A3 oil, that's what I do.

As far as EDGE 0W-40 vs Mobil 0W-40: The HEMI ran smooth on both. The only difference eInnoticed was some oil consumption when towing with the Mobil 1 0W-40. But hey, I scored six 5-quart jugs of Castrol EDGE 0W-40 for $99, so there is that. So I got plenty of it now. I think I got like 16 jugs total, I have to recount them.

Castrol kept busy in the past couple of years and updated their formulations. I think that SOPUS has the messiest product lineup currently, as they keep moving stuff around. Any decent Mobil 1 product is expensive and hard to get. Castrol is the most accessible and offers a whide range of products that you can actually buy at a reasonable price. Their 0W-40 is made in Belgium for example. Their 5W-40 was just updated recently, and they have a 5W-30 that's an ACEA A3 oil that you can buy at Walmart. My dad has always been a Castrol guy, and he was never pasionate about motor oil. He just used it because it worked well for him.

Before I forget: throw a bottle of 15oz of Lubegard in there to clean out your HEMI. Just to make sure you don't have any metal flakes stuck to anything..if anything, Lumbegard cleans well, but you have to run it for a few thousand miles for it to do it's thing. You might even like how it looks and smells, lol. When you pour it in a 5 quart jug and mix it with fresh oil, it turns the oil to a blue-greenish color, it's unreal.
I wondered if they were the same oils. I tried to compare pds of the ep and black line but the ep pds is from 2015 when it was just rated for 15k miles so im not sure. Both msds show group 3 base oils fwiw. It bothers me only because of a little ocd. In all reality it doesnt matter its just all in my head lol
 

Travis8352

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When I switched from the small filter (using Fram and Amsoil filters) to the larger RP 20-820, my idle oil pressure jumped from 34 to 44 at operating temp. Running pressure stayed consistent at 55 regardless of oil filter used.
Mine was 33-34 on any 5w20 and jumped to 40 with 0w40 on a small purolator boss and irs still 40 with the big filter. I may add another half quart since i got the big filter on. 7.5 in now might go for 8
 

Rod Knock

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I wondered if they were the same oils. I tried to compare pds of the ep and black line but the ep pds is from 2015 when it was just rated for 15k miles so im not sure. Both msds show group 3 base oils fwiw. It bothers me only because of a little ocd. In all reality it doesnt matter its just all in my head lol
When you go to pdsmsds.castrol.com set the language to EN(US), but don't limit the country to US, instead select "All". Then open the most recent Global PDS/MSDS file of the oil that you're looking for. That's were Castrol is hiding them in plain sight.

This is an interesting read, as GM's lifter failures are alive and thriving. The comment section is even better than the article itslef, as are the corporate shills defending GM: https://gmauthority.com/blog/2021/08/how-gm-dealers-handle-engine-valve-lifter-issues/
 

Travis8352

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When you go to pdsmsds.castrol.com set the language to EN(US), but don't limit the country to US, instead select "All". Then open the most recent Global PDS/MSDS file of the oil that you're looking for. That's were Castrol is hiding them in plain sight.

This is an interesting read, as GM's lifter failures are alive and thriving. The comment section is even better than the article itslef, as are the corporate shills defending GM: https://gmauthority.com/blog/2021/08/how-gm-dealers-handle-engine-valve-lifter-issues/
I am happy gm is acknowledging the problem instead of just saying oh thats normal
 

Travis8352

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When you go to pdsmsds.castrol.com set the language to EN(US), but don't limit the country to US, instead select "All". Then open the most recent Global PDS/MSDS file of the oil that you're looking for. That's were Castrol is hiding them in plain sight.

This is an interesting read, as GM's lifter failures are alive and thriving. The comment section is even better than the article itslef, as are the corporate shills defending GM: https://gmauthority.com/blog/2021/08/how-gm-dealers-handle-engine-valve-lifter-issues/
I checked a few pds and msds for castrol oils without limiting the country and wow the differences between the pds. Gtx magnatec 5w20 looks like their best 5w20 between edge and ep and magnatec. -39 pour point for the ep. -42 for the black bottle and -49 for magnatec. Also slightly thicker for a 20 wt. edge 0w40 euro looks unreal. I didnt realize the pour point was as low as it is. Almost as good as m1 fs and i feel like the castrol wouldnt thin out as fast as m1
 

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Anyone know if quaker state dropped the ultimate durability name? Walmart only had the full synthetic and when looking at their product site i only find full synthetic.
Past 2 oil changes ive been using 15oz lubegard and qsud 0w20, have 4k on oil now and wanna change it before a 2k trip next week. Could prolly get away with not changing it though!
 

Smokey613

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Anyone know if quaker state dropped the ultimate durability name? Walmart only had the full synthetic and when looking at their product site i only find full synthetic.
Past 2 oil changes ive been using 15oz lubegard and qsud 0w20, have 4k on oil now and wanna change it before a 2k trip next week. Could prolly get away with not changing it though!
Post in thread 'Synthetic Oil'
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/synthetic-oil.27664/post-2517515
 

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Rod Knock

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Thanks!
Guess ill return it then lol i just put it in the wifes acura rdx.
Now to figure out what to run again in the ram, only 19k miles. Maybe ill just go with redline 0w20 as i dont have any ticks and i dont put alot of miles on it.
Or that castrol edge stuff im seeing you guys talk about, decision's.....
You have plenty of choices, however, Quaker State Full Synthetic was Quaker State Ultimate Durability. It's the same oil, just a different name. I'm sorry if my previous post caused any confusion. I think that SOPUS is trying to simplify their product line in an attempt to alleviate confusion, but they end up creating more of it. It's good oil though.
 

Cableman

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You have plenty of choices, however, Quaker State Full Synthetic was Quaker State Ultimate Durability. It's the same oil, just a different name. I'm sorry if my previous post caused any confusion. I think that SOPUS is trying to simplify their product line in an attempt to alleviate confusion, but they end up creating more of it. It's good oil though.

Ok thanks, if i have no hemi tic am i better off with the Castrol 5w20? I only put about 5 to 6k a year of local driving. Lubegard twice so far. 19k on the clock as of now.
 

Travis8352

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Ok thanks, if i have no hemi tic am i better off with the Castrol 5w20? I only put about 5 to 6k a year of local driving. Lubegard twice so far. 19k on the clock as of now.
Edge 5w20 and edge ep 5w20 are both good choices. I havnt heard many negatives really with those 2. Im sure magnatec would be a great choice for a tick free hemi
 

tjfdesmo

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Let’s not confuse hydraulic lifter bleed down(few seconds of startup chatter) after the engine being stagnant with the roller assembly constant clicking even warm/hot. The initial priming “tick” is filter bypass range in conjunction with climate and/or too much viscosity in your oil selection. RL 5-30 is basically a light 40 weight oil

If everyone ran the same test and instead used PUP 0-40, it would easily meet or exceed and save $$$

WRONG. My 6.4 had intermittent startup clatter, cold tick, and hot tick on 0W40. PUP
 
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Did you give PUP a chance to work its magic like another brand that is promoted by a home inspector getting a percentage suggesting an uncertified engine lubricant? I was told using this special "oil" for at LEAST a period of XXXX miles, my Avatar shows what carnage followed(it ALSO destroyed the short block cam AND crank bearings). A band aid may work for one, but doesn't for another tells us what exactly? Where is your before and after evidence video?
 
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Hemi395

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@Hemi395 I'm curious about something: any time you switch away from RedLine your HEMI tick returns? If that's the case then it's a friction-related issue. What I find interesting and can't explain is that it takes several hundred miles for the tick to go away again when you get back on Red Line.
Yep it was like clockwork, 500 miles into a different oil it would start getting louder at hot idle. The exception was the PUP mix which took almost 2000 miles to start getting loud again.

After switching back to RL and going 500 or so miles it was quiet again. I had that happen a few times, the last one I tried was SS 5w30 and it started ticking BAD on that. That's the time I took the videos. It took almost 1000miles on RL to quiet up again.

I stopped testing oils after that lol. That was probably 35000 miles ago and at 75000 now, it's still nice and quiet.
 

Travis8352

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Did you give PUP a chance to work its magic like another brand that is promoted by a home inspector getting a percentage suggesting an uncertified engine lubricant? I was told using this special "oil" for at LEAST a period of XXXX miles, my Avatar shows what carnage followed(it ALSO destroyed the short block cam AND crank bearings). A band aid may work for one, but doesn't for another tells us what exactly? Where is your before and after evidence video?
Are you saying thats what happened when you switched to redline in your 5.7 hemi?
 
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