TANK MOUNTS, Please READ

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TJP440

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omaha
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2014
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hemi
First I want to thank all that have been trying to help me as I learn about Rams.
This post is hoping to repay others for the help I've received. Most are likely aware of the gas tank mount issue with these trucks. What is likely not known is how bad it is and that the factory boys BAND AID fix is just that with very poor adhesive :mad::flame:
My truck is from a dry climate area and spotless underneath. I did note some rust but only on the unused R side mount that is not used for anything. This is what led me to pursue the root cause.
I became aware of the recall and 12 year warranty in the process. As mentioned, I did not like THEIR fix.
After dropping the tank to get access to the mount I found out how bad the issue is or will eventually become. See attached pic's. The root cause as some know is the mounts are closed at the bottom, and open close to the top which leads to a container for anything that gets in. Add moisture and we have a problem Houston.
I am hoping this will alert all to look at AND monitor their tank mounts especially the front one REGARDLESS of climate. I would also encourage ALL owners to cap these openings off as they will eventually lead to more than the tank mount failing. This even more so in areas that use salt in the winter.
My plan is to reinforce and treat the areas with a rust preventer and then seal the openings while leaving an opening at the bottom om the front mounts. The rears will likely get cleaned out, treated, sealed with drain holes added. Might bypass the drain holes not sure on that yet.

Again my main goal was to make all owners aware of this issue as even Arizona trucks are subject to the poorly executed design and BAND AID fix.DSC05433.JPGDSC05439.JPGDSC05446.JPGDSC05450.JPG
 

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Brandon-w

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Thanks for the info. I'll be going in there with the plasma cutter and ripping the whole bottom open on that, the important structure is on the sides anyways so a 3/8 slot with a maybe 3/4 inch round slot in the middle so rocks and bigger stuff can get out then hit it with some por 15 To seal it up.
This has me paranoid now.
 
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TJP440

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Thanks for the info. I'll be going in there with the plasma cutter and ripping the whole bottom open on that, the important structure is on the sides anyways so a 3/8 slot with a maybe 3/4 inch round slot in the middle so rocks and bigger stuff can get out then hit it with some por 15 To seal it up.
This has me paranoid now.
Your response is exactly why I posted this.
The recall issued was for specific states and only covered 2009-2012 model years.
They later somewhat quietly issued a "Service Bulletin" that instituted a 12 year warranty on all Ram 1500 tank mounts from 2009 to 2018 regardless of location.

So many owners may think they are in the clear when they have a major problem looming.
I used my finger in the hole on the right side first and didn't get very far before finding the crud, it was full. I then used a right angle tool (think hose/cotter key remover) to start digging and it just kept coming out.
This is when I decided to drop the gas tank even though the mount appeared OK. The LF mount was not as full as the R side and I believe that is due to the tank being in close proximity and blocking the debris to a point. The pictures tell the story so I'm glad I did.
I used a small cut off wheel on a die grinder as I was better able to control the cut and am not that proficient with a plasma cutter.

After opening and cleaning the 2 front ones, I plan on just putting drain holes in t the top mounts as there is not much in them and clean them blowing air into the drain holes with a shop vac. over the upper hoes. After treating all 4 areas, welding in patches on the fronts, I plan on sealing off all 4 bracket openings .

My thought on sealing the top was to make a separate aluminum plate to cover the opening and attach it with RTV so it's easily removable if needed in the future. Might also use self tappers with a silicone or rubber gasket. I'm still contemplating whether I'll leave the bottom open or not. :cheers:
 

Bee1971

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2011 Sport 4x4
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345 Hemi
2011 Ram 1500 Sport - Original owner - WI Truck

After reading this , and knowing the issue from many years ago , I decided to look again as it’s been years - I remember spraying those brackets with Fluid Film and LPS 3 when people started having issues well before the bulletin

Was pleased to see that my work paid off - Those two brackets on drivers side frame rail look brand new LPS 3 turned to a wax like substance , started scraping and probing with a screwdriver , zero rust

However as I was looking around underneath

The very frame type structure where the bolts for the gas tank straps attach to on other side of gas tank Those bolts and frame structure is also perfect looks good

It’s that same frame structure that attaches to the passenger side frame rail

Saw some rust starting to penetrate through on the passenger side , rust and crack - Obviously water was sitting on that passenger side , all the factory cut out holes - Nothing attaches there however could of turned into a much bigger issue

Frame is perfect , it’s just that width structure underneath so will work on that in spring - Sprayed it down for now

Thanx for the heads up - Got my lazy ass under there in the middle of Winter and found an issue
 
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TJP440

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Your treating with LPS 3 likely paid off. I've been using their products for years.

I'll take this opportunity to update where I am and my findings. The L side mount (drivers) appeared to be in pretty good shape but as shown above in the pic's it was actually worse that the R. The R side which isn't used for anything but is part of the same cross member, was actually starting to blister so what I expected wasn't the case.

Once the tank was out using my small finger I could feel the debris in all 4 locations (rear tank mount crossmember). I started using a small flexible magnet and found rust in all 4 locations with the two front being the worst. After cutting them open both sides had a build up of iron Oxide. the left side which again appeared to be in better shape was much worse. A chisel had no effect but I found a center punch and hammer worked pretty well causing good sized pieces to bust loose. the good news is the frame was solid. The R side cleaned up scraping with a screwdriver tip.
I proceeded to clean the crevices with a cotter key remover.
The rear mount / crossmember corners as previously mentioned were no where near as bad as the fronts but had a substantial amount of flakes coming out with the magnet. Using long drill bits on the R side (muffler in the way) I put a 1/2" dia hole in the front lower corners after which quite a bit of crap came out. I proceeded to put a shop vac on the upper (larger) opening and hit the 1/2" hole with an air nozzle. ;) No more debris in any of them.
If anyone is following this the flexible magnet is a quick indicator of how good or bad their situation is
I'm fabbing the patch plates and will follow up again with pic's :cheers:
 
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TJP440

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It's been a while but I am one for trying to do it once and that takes time. I'm not sure how many pic's I can add to one post but will add a second if needed. As previously mentioned I was in a quandary as to what to do about drainage on the LF tank mount as well as its opposing side. I decided to leave the very bottoms open about 1/8" to allow drainage should anything get in there. That is doubtful as I also closed off the openings above on both sides in the front.
The rear mount and opposing side I was not overly concerned with as there was minimal rust. I added 1/2" holes for drainage and debris.
I did a lot of research on sealers, converters etc. I settled on a product from Europe called Jenolite Rust converter. Jenolite Website The British navy uses it so that was impressive to me. I bought the aerosol with a nozzle kit off AMZ that is similar to eastwoods inner frame coating kit. I did have to modify a nozzle to work with the jenolite aerosol as it uses a Male feed to the nozzle and the kit had females. there may be other kits that have males or one of each. Wasn't a big deal as I found I a Rustoleum nozzle worked with a little modification. AMZ nozzle kit. i would suggest looking for a kit with both M & F to save the hassle. I'm pretty well equipped with tooling that others may not have readily available.
The jenolite is almost like a thin shellac that penetrates and sets up pretty quickly. I did 3 or 4 fairly heavy coats while trying to rotate the nozzles to make sure all was covered. This was done to all 4 areas.
I let it sit overnite and then painted all 4 areas with krylon rust proof paint. Again pretty thick coats using the nozzles.
I mad a 1/8' thick rubber cover for the L side and found that an 1-5/16 cap plug fit the other side nicely. Hopefully the above and pic's will answer any questions, if not post a reply and I'll try to help. It may take me a bit to respond.

This approach IMO is what Ram should have implemented ads opposed to their Half thought out we could care less BAND AID that does nothing to address the root of the design flaw.
keep in mind this truck came from a dry climate and APPEARED pristine except for the rust just starting to bubble on the Passenger side front. I will monitor these
repairs at every oil change but do not anticipate any further issues.
In closing I would encourage all owners to keep a close eye on these areas.
 

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