Tell me this isn't lifter tick...

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Ramrob20

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This (louder than the normal engine ticking) started happening the other day and I'm very curious what everyone opinion is. I drive this truck 100+ miles a day for work and really hoping its a quicker manifold fix rather than loosing the truck for a few weeks for the cam/lifters.

For context, I live in a rural area that gets hammered with weather and the roads turn to slalom courses dodging major potholes/erosion. I have hit a few teeth jarring pot holes in the last few weeks. I am saying this hoping that maybe this has assisted in the shearing of a manifold bolt.

The tick is consistent at idle when at operating temp, but is significantly louder at start up for about 30 seconds. I don't notice it during normal driving but can hear it at stop lights etc. This is the driver side and loudest in the wheel well. The passenger side sounds mostly normal.

Ive read a lot and listened to other videos and its never really confirmed from OP what it was.

Video of noise
 

jws123

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Either thats a roller that broke off of a lifter It happens or a pulley is making noise remove belt start it up see if its still there.
 

NJ4X4

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Reach in and get a hold of the heat shields on the exhaust manifolds. If they're loose and you can move them, the studs are broken. It's a quick way to know if it's coming from there. When mine broke on my 4th gen, it sounded really bad.
 

AlbertaRam1500

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Hi RamRob…
Just posted a video of mine. Somewhat quieter in (P)ark/(N)eutral but louder and more distinct in (D)rive. Dealership yesterday said ‘completely normal’. I just don’t buy into that. Mines a 2016 1500 w/142k kms. Goes into a more reputable local shop this Wednesday for 2nd opinion. I’ll let you know what they find on my end of things. See if we can help each other out. PS. NOT manifold exhaust bolts, mine are secure and on tight.
Here’s mine….
 

Lee Peterson

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My trucks sounded just like that for 2 years at least. I was thinking cold piston slap as mine goes quiet once fully warmed up.
 
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without getting heavy into it, 1) do you still have MDS and 2) have you lost power/performance any?
True it could be a exhaust tick but you would know if its down on power as you drive it.
If a lifter and cam lobe is bad (not always) you will feel a miss or it will feel low on power. especially if it is still running MDS.

(now getting into it) With the engine cold (dont burn yourself with it being hot), as previously stated, see if you can wiggle the exhaust heat shield around the manifold. also you can try to turn the exhaust bolts by hand. they should be tight and unable to turn. if they are then you have a broken bolt.


the only other way to know for sure is to remove the valve covers, if all else fails, and look for the rise and fall of each rocker. the valve covers have rubber gaskets so you should be able to remove the valve covers and replace them with no problem
 

Burla

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Hi RamRob…
Just posted a video of mine. Somewhat quieter in (P)ark/(N)eutral but louder and more distinct in (D)rive. Dealership yesterday said ‘completely normal’. I just don’t buy into that. Mines a 2016 1500 w/142k kms. Goes into a more reputable local shop this Wednesday for 2nd opinion. I’ll let you know what they find on my end of things. See if we can help each other out. PS. NOT manifold exhaust bolts, mine are secure and on tight.
Here’s mine….
Ticks under load, see some of the lube strategies we have and read them, look up threads in my sig. If it was exhaust it most likely would be worse on cold starts. Sadly, it is normal for a hemi to do this because hemi's are prone to it, but they never have any good answer to why it only happens to like 20-25% of them and not all of them. Try a lubrication strategy,. it really is the only answer for this and is scientifically sound. Read the lubegard and redline threads, on lubegard around page 10 there is a metalurgy of a worn cam and an experts opinion on the issue. It isnt 100%, but about 80% success rate redline and 50% lubegard. So the easy thing is try lubegard first, if it works cool, if not consider redline but know it is a HM ram, hit or miss. dump 15 ounces biotech in there, see what happens. You want it a little past full on dip stick.
 

EdGs

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It is possible to have warped manifolds where the warp is so bad that it does not go away fully at temp.

About all you can do is check for broken studs. If they are, remove and sand the manifolds flat, and install new hardware and remflex gaskets.

Then see how it sounds from there.

Wishing you the best possible outcome.
 
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Ramrob20

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Update. Got a cylinder 3 misfire code today. Time to start shopping for a cam and lifters
 

A_mod_too_far

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2014 with 143k

if you do cam and lifters dont forget to update the vvt selenoid, in 2015 they updated the part to be much more robust and I think it can help prevent dangerous debris from getting in the lifter and locking it up. The screens on mine had completely separated and had multiple holes in them.
 

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Ramrob20

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Thanks for this, I had no idea. I plan on repairing the truck and having it for awhile. Just have to decide on what parts to use. Since it’s apart I’d like to upgrade/get some more hps out of it if I can.
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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If your VVT Solenoid is completely clogged with metal filings, chances are metal debris has gotten into the lubrication system meaning mains, rods and cam journals, to start I would remove the oil pan and inspect for debris.
 

ramffml

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If your VVT Solenoid is completely clogged with metal filings, chances are metal debris has gotten into the lubrication system meaning mains, rods and cam journals, to start I would remove the oil pan and inspect for debris.

If your solenoid has filings, at that point Ram gives you a new engine (if it's still under warranty). You'll never be sure to remove all the shavings and debris from an engine that's that far gone.
 
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Ramrob20

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Its not possible an exhaust leak is causing a misfire correct? haha
 
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Ramrob20

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if you do cam and lifters dont forget to update the vvt selenoid, in 2015 they updated the part to be much more robust and I think it can help prevent dangerous debris from getting in the lifter and locking it up. The screens on mine had completely separated and had multiple holes in them.
Do you have a part number for the update solenoid? Anything I can find online has the same part number from 09-23. Thanks
 

A_mod_too_far

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Do you have a part number for the update solenoid? Anything I can find online has the same part number from 09-23. Thanks

That's what years it fits, you cant buy the old one anymore. When mopar updates a part number it starts out ending in AA and then subsequently AB, AC, and so on. Anything you buy new is going to be the latest version.
 

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