The stupid front driveshaft greasing....

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lpfm1990

lpfm1990

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I thought it spins on my 16' as well while not in 4X4? How does one determine this? Can't really open the door & look under it while driving.

They are fully disconnected in 2wd, easy way to tell, with your truck in park, reach under and rotate the driveshaft.... if it was connected you wouldn’t be able to rotate it


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lpfm1990

lpfm1990

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Or you can do what I do....ignore it.

Then again, I only use 4WD during winter snows when I have to travel. Regardless of limited use, almost no truck up here sells without 4WD, so they all come with it.

I’ll say I noticed a huge difference in “smoothness” after I grease it. It was getting very stiff feeling when I greased it the first time. It’s not hard to do once you figure out the process (see a post or two above this)


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HEMIMANN

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I’ll say I noticed a huge difference in “smoothness” after I grease it. It was getting very stiff feeling when I greased it the first time. It’s not hard to do once you figure out the process (see a post or two above this)


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When you use it, that is. It's a stationary shaft otherwise.
 
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lpfm1990

lpfm1990

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When you use it, that is. It's a stationary shaft otherwise.

This is true, but I prefer for it to not get stiff and my luck seize, being my luck I’d be rolling, need 4wd coming up to a hill, click it in at 35-40mph for it to explode when the system engages. I’ve seen the aftermath of it, and no thanks, 15 minutes of my time, and $.25 worth of grease saves a headache. It’s kinda like if you crapped your pants, but just turn them inside out, because the other side is clean


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GTyankee

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How would that particular shaft turn unless the transfer case is engaged?

Now i could see greasing it if the transfer case automatically engages
Or if you just like to see fresh grease on the opposite side of the Cardan Joint
 

lpennock

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Front drive can spin some when running down the road. The disconnect just splits the passenger side shaft which allows the spider gears to counter rotate rather than spin the diff. Parasitic drag will transfer some rotation to the drive shaft. It isn't much but there is some. Of course the more friction in the double cardin the less spin there is, so a frozen centering ball will push all the Parasitic friction into heating the diff fluid.

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And so, after 54,000 miles and 7 years, I figured I'd better grease the damn thing. The only 4WD truck I've owned with such a fitting.

And, we discover the cardan joint with the needle zerk is above both the skid plate AND the transmission crossmember. Helluva design.

Just testing out the cardan joint flange bolts, they're about frozen on by this point, needing a breaker bar we can't get up there.

So we rotated the front drive shaft to orient the needle zerk forward, one guy jammed the grease gun needle into it while I pumped. It worked! (without removing any parts) We confirmed by inspection the grease didn't just squirt out around the needle zerk - it actually went inside.

It took 3-1/2 grease gun handle squeezes to fill. Oops!
 

HEMIMANN

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I found mine......

Without dropping front driveshaft? Is this unique only to the heavy duty models? i.e. - do the half ton 4x4 trucks have to drop driveshaft?
 

BLUKTY2

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I am able to grease mine with removing any parts. 2017 3500. Took a little time to locate the grease fitting the first time doing this but now I know where it is. I give mine a few pumps of grease every other engine oil change, since I use 5,000 mile oci's.
 

EastWestHemi

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My truck greases like a SOB, you have to rotate the shaft to one special spot and have very good pressure on the needle to get it to take. My father in laws took the grease much better the one time I did his. It’s a crap shoot I guess. Pistol grip, etc. what everyone else said.
 

HEMIMANN

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My truck greases like a SOB, you have to rotate the shaft to one special spot and have very good pressure on the needle to get it to take. My father in laws took the grease much better the one time I did his. It’s a crap shoot I guess. Pistol grip, etc. what everyone else said.

Yup.

We two-manned it, worked good!
 

EastWestHemi

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I’ve only ever used the mopar stuff, which sucks because I used so little off it the grease turns to liquid and starts seperating in my garage. I probably use less than 25% of a tube before I throw it away and start again. With 20% wasted from the stupid fitting not taking grease.
 

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I use NLGI No. 2 Lithium Complex Chassis Grease with micro dispersed MoS2 (moly).

Pretty much universal for all joints.
I thought moly-based grease was a no-no for bearings and the such, it was explained to me moly is for high-pressure fittings like bucket pins found on backhoes and excavators, etc.

Did my heavy equipment dealer misguide me?

As far as greasing that dang front bearing, I have my kid do it, that is one of the reasons why we have kids, right?
 

HEMIMANN

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I thought moly-based grease was a no-no for bearings and the such, it was explained to me moly is for high-pressure fittings like bucket pins found on backhoes and excavators, etc.

Did my heavy equipment dealer misguide me?

As far as greasing that dang front bearing, I have my kid do it, that is one of the reasons why we have kids, right?

What is the difference between a bearing and a joint?

In the case of a vehicle, the joint generally sees high load and slow motion, bearings lower load and fast motion. For wheel bearings, they also see high heat due to integral brakes, hence the development of lithium complex soaps and synthetic oils. First synthetic oil grease with clay thickener was used on jet fighter front brakes.

U-joint bearings see high load and slow motion like a chassis joint - the bearing doesn't spin much at shallow shaft angles, and all the power of the drivetrain goes through it - hence I like a medium weight lithium soap (doesn't have to be complexed for high temp, but most are anyway today) and oil, with moly for the high load. I get long life from both joints and drive bearings.

For front wheel bearings that are regreasable, I usually use a dedicated wheel bearing grease - lithium complex soap and synthetic oil without moly additive. For CV joints, these are usually polyurea soap greases these days because they are not maintained (sealed for life and not regreased). Polyurea is a synthetic soap that is extremely stable. Usually with synthetic oil.

Deere has suddenly become a disciple of polyurea grease everywhere, even chassis joints, because of increased water washout resistance compared to lithium complex soap. No thank you - polyurea was developed principally for extreme long life. You should regrease joints if you're gonna pressure wash them anyway. Polyurea very expensive, also. Further, polyurea is not mixible with lithium - the mixture turns to gum.
 

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Dealer charges me an extra $8 to grease it. I pay it and could care less if they do it or not...It's under warranty and when that warranty is out, to the trade-in gods it goes.
 

426power

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Dealer charges me an extra $8 to grease it. I pay it and could care less if they do it or not...It's under warranty and when that warranty is out, to the trade-in gods it goes.
Seriously, Mine does it as part of the oil change. I just ask to make sure they do. No extra charge.
 
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