This makes my head hurt

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Jbaker33

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This is electronic related


Ok, so just to preface this, I have an 06 ram 1500 5.7l hemi QC 4x4 with 162,000-ish miles. I just replaced my water pump this weekend. I had spinal surgery almost 2 months ago and it is too much for me to stand on a stool and bend over. So in order for me to fix it, I had to take out the radiator, the fan shroud and anything else that was in the way. I replaced the leaking water pump and used some rtv for good measure. After putting everything back together, filling it with coolant, warming it up and adding more and burping it, I i took it for a test drive. Even tho I live in the country and no one was around at 5 am, I'm very **** about using my turn signals. That's when I noticed my right turn signal was hyper flashing, indicating a burnt bulb (Doesn't illuminate 'bulb out in my truck just an FYI). Once In the garage I could see the rear was not blinking. I took the taillight off and removed the circuit board thingymagig(yes, that's the scientific name lol). Looking at the bulb, it still has both elements connected.I then Switched the top (blinker/tail) with the middle (brake/tail) and the bulb in question worked like it should. The middle, known to work bulb that I put on top did not work. That tells me the socket isn't getting power. However, when I turned on the tail-lights, that element would illuminate but the blinker on both of the existing bulbs wouldn't. I tried the new one as well.

I'm pretty sure that the water pump has nothing to do with the blinker issue but I wanted to post as much info as possible (Sorry about any irrelavent info lol). My question is, where should I go from here, and where does the blinker wire go to once it leaves the socket? I looked in the FSM that I downloaded from the internet but those diagrams are confusing and are hard for me to read.

I'm buying a new multimeter tomorrow because I'm an idiot. I set my old one on top of my kerosene heater the other night. It wasn't on nor hot at the time but the next day I went to start it and let it warm the garage for 30 mins before going to work on the water pump. I thankfully came out a few mins later to a smoke filled garage and found It like this (pic posted below). Any tips, tricks or guidance on where to look and what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

20180221_203740.jpg

20180221_203734.jpg
 

SYKRAMMAN

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Probably just the circuit board that the bulbs plug into, they are inexpensive to buy new.
 

xtremewlr

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Probably just the circuit board that the bulbs plug into, they are inexpensive to buy new.

This. The circuit boards on the Rams are known for issues. My solution was to buy LED replacement tail lights. Never had an issue with them since because there's no crappy circuit board to worry about any longer.
 
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Jbaker33

Jbaker33

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This. The circuit boards on the Rams are known for issues. My solution was to buy LED replacement tail lights. Never had an issue with them since because there's no crappy circuit board to worry about any longer.


Is there a way to test it and rule it out? I know they are only like 20 bucks but I hate replacing parts without knowing for sure lol
 

SYKRAMMAN

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Probe the socket where the bulb doesn’t work to see if it’s getting power.
 
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Jbaker33

Jbaker33

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Probe the socket where the bulb doesn’t work to see if it’s getting power.

I just checked and its not even getting power to the connector that pluga into the circuit board. For a constant or test I turned on taillights and it got signal. Question, if I used a multimeter and put ground prode into the connector ground and positive into all of the other wires on the connector, the ones that measured very low volts (.07) or something like that, that means it's ground properly but not being used at that moment(brake and reverse lights is what I'm thinking they were)

EDIT:
I'm assuming the blinker was the only one reading 0.00. It is a white wire with a yellow tracer. Does this mean that I'm shorted to ground? I read somewhere else that worst case, I could tap into the wire for the passenger side front turn signal and run a whole new line to the rear. Not sure how true it is but it does make sense to me
 
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SYKRAMMAN

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It very well could be a bad ground, I’ve definitely been there before, find where the ground is for that plug and clean it up if needed, otherwise is just a bad board. If it was more than just that one light out, I’d be looking at the tipcm but if it’s the tipcm there’s usually more funky things goin on.
 
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Jbaker33

Jbaker33

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It very well could be a bad ground, I’ve definitely been there before, find where the ground is for that plug and clean it up if needed, otherwise is just a bad board. If it was more than just that one light out, I’d be looking at the tipcm but if it’s the tipcm there’s usually more funky things goin on.

Ok, I always hate reading a post or thread or whatever they are called, and never seeing a resolution. Even if I haven't had the same issue, I like to store it in the memory bank for possible future use.

With that being said, I FINALLY figured out the problem. I'm not sure if I posted in this one but a few weeks back I did new plugs. While I had them off I did a few tests and some looking around. I did a compression test, not because anything was wrong, I've just never done one and am trying to get my mechanical IQ up. I also wanted to remove my valve covers to inspect my valve springs to make sure they weren't broken. I couldn't find the ASD relay so I decided to disconnect the fuel line. I followed 1aauto.com video (great place to buy inexpensive parts btw) on how to depressurize the system which included disconnecting the connector under drivers side door, close to the wheel well. I'm not sure what the connector is called. While trying to take it off, I ended up breaking the gray bar that you pull back in order to disconnect it. Well once I put it all back together and started it I got a p0463 (fuel level sensor high) along with my gauge sticking on E. After trying and failing to troubleshoot that I gave up. Fast forward to a few days ago when I replaced my water pump, I wanted to test my fuel pressure to make sure my fuel pump wasn't going out because of the sending unit. When I got done with the job, the pass rear blinker wasn't working. After spending countless house troubleshooting, I figured it out. As I'm sure you've deduced by now, it was that connector under the drivers door. Because I broke that gray lever, I wasn't getting a good connection. After figuring it out, I ziptied the two ends together for now. Not only did if fix the blinkers, it fixed my fuel level sensor as wel so it turned out to be a good day. Also, while I was troubleshooting I found 3 trailer light wires that had corroded and broke so I fixed those as well. D

Man, I have to stop writing books on here... sorry guys, I only intended a few sentences but I didn't want to just say it was the connector. I had to put it in context. Lol. Thanks for the help guys. Now I just have to figure out why my truck is really sluggish when trying to accelerate normally around 40 mph and also why my truck is shaking worse than normal. Hopefully the shaking is the tires as I'm going to be get a new set here soon
 

SYKRAMMAN

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Yeah those connectors with the lock bars need to be tight, as with all connections, otherwise as you’ve found out that they come loose going over bumps and such over time. Well good job figuring it out.:rockit:
 

justin13703

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That’s why I always say if it ain’t broke don’t fix it lol. I understand trying to be proactive and that’s a good thing, but sometimes doing too much can cause trouble.

Good work figuring it out
 
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Jbaker33

Jbaker33

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That’s why I always say if it ain’t broke don’t fix it lol. I understand trying to be proactive and that’s a good thing, but sometimes doing too much can cause trouble.

Good work figuring it out


Yeah, I agree with you completely. I knew that too but after reading a bunch horror stories about broken springs that I had to look to make sure seeing as coil packs were off, I figured a few more bolts, what the heck.
 

justin13703

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Yeah, I agree with you completely. I knew that too but after reading a bunch horror stories about broken springs that I had to look to make sure seeing as coil packs were off, I figured a few more bolts, what the heck.
Yeah I know what you mean. I make a living maintaining all kinds of equipment and sometimes I’ll touch something that ain’t broke thinking I’ll be preventing future problems and it just ends up causing new problems lol
 
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Jbaker33

Jbaker33

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Yeah I know what you mean. I make a living maintaining all kinds of equipment and sometimes I’ll touch something that ain’t broke thinking I’ll be preventing future problems and it just ends up causing new problems lol


My wife has told me no more working on it for a while because it always turns into some thing else I'll find and "have to" fix
 

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