62Blazer
Senior Member
My original post was asking about replacement shock recommendations for my leaking factory Bilstein on the passenger side front. Decided to go ahead with Thuren 1.5" coils and the Fox 2.0. Really wanted the shocks but they said it required their coil springs, plus they had both in stock at the moment.
Placed the order last Thursday morning and they arrived the following Wednesday afternoon, so about a week delivery time. I thought it was reasonable considering they are 2,000 miles away and I opted for the free shipping option.
Initial observations of the parts. I was somewhat surprised after removing the factory front coils and placing them next to the Thuren coils on the garage floor as they were basically the exact same length. The Fox shocks are longer (didn't measure but maybe 1.5") than the factory shocks so I understand why they say the factory coils could pop out under full drop, so thought for sure the new coils would be longer. Will actually send Thuren an e-mail just to double-check the coils part number (they are 3 hours behind so probably still in bed)...didn't test drive the rig yet but initially they did provide lift.
On to the install. Total time was just over 3 hours by myself (actually my younger son "helped" me a little at the beginning). If you include cleaning up the garage and putting away my tools it will be another 15-20 minutes........ Anyway, I used two floor jacks under the front axle to lift the truck and put jackstands under the frame just behind the radius arm mounts. I knew to jack it up high and had the front tires probably 8" off the ground thinking it would give me plenty of room to droop the axle out after removing the tires. Turns out it was just barely enough as both jacks were almost completely lowered by the end.
Removed the factory shocks first. No real issue with the lower bolts. The uppers were somewhat rusty on my '16 and were just spinning the shaft with the impact. Had to clamp two pairs of vice grips on the shock shaft to hold it enough to get the nut off (not concerned about junk shocks but wouldn't do that on a new set!). Getting to the top bolts isn't bad with a couple extensions and wobble socket.
Removed the brake line and ABS wiring brackets on both sides (two bolts/brackets each side). Unhooked the 4wd actuator plug. Pulled the bolt from the trackbar to frame mount. This was tight and took a breaker bar with a pipe extension to get started. I had activated the swaybar disconnect in the cab and verified the light for this was on steady, but the axle would not lower enough for the springs to pop out. I disconnected the driver side swaybar link (side that hooks to the actual swaybar). This was actually one of the longer steps in the disassembly because you have to hold the top of the bolt with a small wrench and then unscrew the nut with a wrench. There are a lot of threads, it was rusty, and you can only turn the wrench a small amount at a time. After the driver side was unhooked the axle would drop far enough. You have to work the jacks on both sides down a little at a time until the springs are loose. Again, I had the jacks almost completely lowered to get the springs loose enough to remove, but still had to tug on them a little to get them out.
Reinstall time. The Thuren springs seemed to go back in easier than the factory springs came out. Lining them up is common sense as you can clearly see where the end of the spring sits in the upper isolater and where the nub goes in the upper brackets. Raised the axle up enough to put pressure on the springs and hold them in and started reconnecting everything else.
Trackbar bolt requires a little musle but not too had. If you had a helper they could probably push/pry the axle into position. I used a ratchet strap to pull the axle over and align the hole, and then a little prying with a big screwdriver for final alignment. Swaybar mount was just tightening the bolt back up, still took a few minutes but much easier with the threads cleaned up.
Shocks were next. Held them up and loosely installed the top hardware. Not bad but not much room to get your hand between the frame and plastic fender line to get the bushing, washer, and nut installed. A helper to hold the shock while the other started the hardware would be much easier. The lower shock mounts were a struggle. You could get the bolt started through the outer part of the bracket and shock eye but it would not line up with the hole on the back side of the bracket. It appears the shock sits at a slight angle between the upper and lower mount, but the lower mount is more designed to be straight. No problems with the factory shocks but probably because the shock eye bushings are compliant rubber versus the stiff Fox bushings. Had to fight both sides raising and lowering the truck, prying on the shock eyes, etc...before they went in.
Sit the truck back on the ground, bounced the front suspension by hand a few times (I know it's not settled) and check the measurements. The front and back fender lips showed almost identical measurements now so should be right at 1.5" of lift. Didn't do a test drive because it was getting late, it was dark, and I didn't want to get in the truck in my dirty work clothes.
I will provide another update after going for a drive this evening.
Placed the order last Thursday morning and they arrived the following Wednesday afternoon, so about a week delivery time. I thought it was reasonable considering they are 2,000 miles away and I opted for the free shipping option.
Initial observations of the parts. I was somewhat surprised after removing the factory front coils and placing them next to the Thuren coils on the garage floor as they were basically the exact same length. The Fox shocks are longer (didn't measure but maybe 1.5") than the factory shocks so I understand why they say the factory coils could pop out under full drop, so thought for sure the new coils would be longer. Will actually send Thuren an e-mail just to double-check the coils part number (they are 3 hours behind so probably still in bed)...didn't test drive the rig yet but initially they did provide lift.
On to the install. Total time was just over 3 hours by myself (actually my younger son "helped" me a little at the beginning). If you include cleaning up the garage and putting away my tools it will be another 15-20 minutes........ Anyway, I used two floor jacks under the front axle to lift the truck and put jackstands under the frame just behind the radius arm mounts. I knew to jack it up high and had the front tires probably 8" off the ground thinking it would give me plenty of room to droop the axle out after removing the tires. Turns out it was just barely enough as both jacks were almost completely lowered by the end.
Removed the factory shocks first. No real issue with the lower bolts. The uppers were somewhat rusty on my '16 and were just spinning the shaft with the impact. Had to clamp two pairs of vice grips on the shock shaft to hold it enough to get the nut off (not concerned about junk shocks but wouldn't do that on a new set!). Getting to the top bolts isn't bad with a couple extensions and wobble socket.
Removed the brake line and ABS wiring brackets on both sides (two bolts/brackets each side). Unhooked the 4wd actuator plug. Pulled the bolt from the trackbar to frame mount. This was tight and took a breaker bar with a pipe extension to get started. I had activated the swaybar disconnect in the cab and verified the light for this was on steady, but the axle would not lower enough for the springs to pop out. I disconnected the driver side swaybar link (side that hooks to the actual swaybar). This was actually one of the longer steps in the disassembly because you have to hold the top of the bolt with a small wrench and then unscrew the nut with a wrench. There are a lot of threads, it was rusty, and you can only turn the wrench a small amount at a time. After the driver side was unhooked the axle would drop far enough. You have to work the jacks on both sides down a little at a time until the springs are loose. Again, I had the jacks almost completely lowered to get the springs loose enough to remove, but still had to tug on them a little to get them out.
Reinstall time. The Thuren springs seemed to go back in easier than the factory springs came out. Lining them up is common sense as you can clearly see where the end of the spring sits in the upper isolater and where the nub goes in the upper brackets. Raised the axle up enough to put pressure on the springs and hold them in and started reconnecting everything else.
Trackbar bolt requires a little musle but not too had. If you had a helper they could probably push/pry the axle into position. I used a ratchet strap to pull the axle over and align the hole, and then a little prying with a big screwdriver for final alignment. Swaybar mount was just tightening the bolt back up, still took a few minutes but much easier with the threads cleaned up.
Shocks were next. Held them up and loosely installed the top hardware. Not bad but not much room to get your hand between the frame and plastic fender line to get the bushing, washer, and nut installed. A helper to hold the shock while the other started the hardware would be much easier. The lower shock mounts were a struggle. You could get the bolt started through the outer part of the bracket and shock eye but it would not line up with the hole on the back side of the bracket. It appears the shock sits at a slight angle between the upper and lower mount, but the lower mount is more designed to be straight. No problems with the factory shocks but probably because the shock eye bushings are compliant rubber versus the stiff Fox bushings. Had to fight both sides raising and lowering the truck, prying on the shock eyes, etc...before they went in.
Sit the truck back on the ground, bounced the front suspension by hand a few times (I know it's not settled) and check the measurements. The front and back fender lips showed almost identical measurements now so should be right at 1.5" of lift. Didn't do a test drive because it was getting late, it was dark, and I didn't want to get in the truck in my dirty work clothes.
I will provide another update after going for a drive this evening.
