Tick after cam and lifter replacement

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Brian Kormos

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A little history. Truck came in - no tick but a shudder at low rpm CEL on misfore cyl1. Did the usual plug and coil swap and dtc didn't follow. Removed valve cover and found intake rocker barely moving. Needs cam and lifters.

Replaced cam and lifters. Did oil pump and timing components as well. Had heads machined and exhaust manifolds machined as well. After reassembly started engine and everything started and ran perfect but after she gets up to operating temp I get a Tick. No faults and no drive ability issues.

Anyone have an idea what could be causing this.
 

Burla

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Rods werent installed correctly is the number one cause of this and it happens often. They need to be seated or cupped correctly and sadly this usually gets worse if indeed that is what happened. I havent done it, just passing along what I've read on it. Have you seen and read ram forum cam bible? read the first page and like post 3 for sure.
 

Burla

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With no doubt this would be the number one cause of tick after cam install, now if it wasn't ticking prior and it sounds like that is the case, then in theory at least this is fixable. There is a large % of hemi's that tick before and after cam install. Look up lubrication strategies in my sig to help lubricate the cam with ep additives to better protect it long term. If this is the case, you will need new rods because if it ticks it is likely bent.

from link


With the rods in place start with the exhaust rocker arm, it’s the easy one. A trick I have is to place a dollop of assembly lube on the end of the push rod to hold it against the rocker arm. Place the rail onto the towers and tuck the pushrod into the cup of the rocker arm. Luckily this side stays quite easily. Begin tightening down the rocker arm starting in the center until the bolt touches the retainer then the middle then the outside. You’ll notice one side of the rocker arm will most likely close right flat and the other will have resistance, this is normal. Just tighten down the rocker arm keeping in mind that you want to gradually get the whole arm down as in line as possible so don’t crank the easiest one down tight then go to the other end and bring it all the way tight; this is how you snap rocker arms when they start working under load.



I will note that you should make sure the flat part of the rocker arm is sitting directly on the top of the valve inside the spring while everything’s being set into place.

The intake arms are a bit more of a pain but if you take your time it takes no real hassle. The problem with these is the rocker arms don’t hold the rod in place all the time so they continuously drop out. If you have a helping set of hands to hold the rods in place great, but I’ve never had them so I just have to keep popping the rods back into the rocker arm cups. You follow the same procedure to get the rocker arms into place, just keep checking the rod hasn’t fallen out of the cup while the arm is being tightened into place.


I have an older set of rocker arms which is why mine have an "I" stamped into the intake arms but you can't get them backwards as they will not line up with the valves if you put the intake rocker onto the exhaust side.



With the rocker arms in place, loosen the bolts slightly and then torque everything into place. Loosen them just a bit so you get an even torque all the way across and to ensure you didn’t over tighten anything while you were loading the rocker arm.
 

jws123

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It takes a good 2000 miles and a oilchange for lifters to break in they will be noisy at first for a while even still you will probably have a slight hot idle tick have never heard a quiet hemi even with new lifters.
 

Chase1990

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I’m having the same issue with my truck after a cam/lifter replacement. At first start up everything is relatively quiet (for a hemi). Once it’s driven for roughly an hour there is a slight tick. Any thoughts?
 

jws123

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I’m having the same issue with my truck after a cam/lifter replacement. At first start up everything is relatively quiet (for a hemi). Once it’s driven for roughly an hour there is a slight tick. Any thoughts?
what brand lifters did you use mine still ticks at hot idle hemis are just loud engines I didnt use OEM lifters I should ofjust $$$
 

Chase1990

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I used the Enginetech brand off of rockauto to keep my rebuild price down. Mopar here in Canada wanted $3500 for the cam and lifters alone.
 

Chase1990

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I’ve also made sure all rods were seated properly. No codes on the scanner either.
 

jws123

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I used the Enginetech brand off of rockauto to keep my rebuild price down. Mopar here in Canada wanted $3500 for the cam and lifters alone.
yep thats your issue I used them on 3 engines before I realized that the lifters that they make SUCK. There is nothing you can do they will be noisy forever unless u swap them for oem i put 20k miles on mine ticks at hot idle fairly loud but runs like butter I tried addatives nothing changes it I will be swapping lifters when I get some time.
 

Chase1990

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So at the end of the day it’s just noisy lifters and should be good to continue running them? The last thing I want to do is tear the motor apart due to a wiped cam.
 

Wild one

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I used the Enginetech brand off of rockauto to keep my rebuild price down. Mopar here in Canada wanted $3500 for the cam and lifters alone.
You bought lifters that probably have the worst rep as far as lifters go. Keeping costs down,doesn't work on a Hemi,i'd replace them before they take out your new cam.
 

jws123

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So at the end of the day it’s just noisy lifters and should be good to continue running them? The last thing I want to do is tear the motor apart due to a wiped cam.
You can for sure keep running them I have yet to do any damage in the 20k miles ive run it they do need to break in tho few oil changes maybe you will be lucky and it will quiet up
 
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Wild one

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If you have a noticable tick,that means the lifter is going to be bouncing off the cam lobe,and that's not conducive to promoting good cam lobe life.If they don't quit ticking in a hundred miles or so,i'd seriously think about replacing them. The tick comes from a pushrod not having enough preload to keep the lifter seated and following the cam lobe,and once the lifter starts to bounce it hammers the cam lobe,and the wheel starts to skid on the lobe.
 

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