Ticking at idle and knock retard while accelerating from a stop.

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chaten

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Hello over the last couple years my 2010 ram 1500 5.7 has been ticking with no cel and no hesitation, recently it developed a heavy hesitation upon leaving a stop light, still no cel,
Code reader shows -15⁰ knock retard.
I bought an oem cam and lifters back in 2021 and procrastinated about installing them.
Last weekend I finally changed cam, lifters, all intake and exhaust valver and push rods the vvt solenoid, exhaust manifold gaskets and hardware and when they get delivered the mds solenoids. I started it up and it sounded like new... for 7 minutes then the ticking from the left side and hesitation came back. I. Lost. I'm hoping one of the mds solenoids are stuck open.

It's a 2010 100% stock 5.7 with 220,000 km
Any ideas would be appreciated!
 

crazykid1994

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Did the old cam and lifters show wear or damage? Any chance metal shavings are floating around the engine? Could also be a bad injector or clogged injector.
 
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chaten

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Not really, the cam looked like it was starting to wear through the hardened surface. But the lifters looked pretty normal, the only real wear I saw was on the valve stem tips and the pushrod balls. But the rocker arms looked ok but are hard to really inspect
 
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chaten

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I also checked for shavings where I could, like the vvt solenoid and the oil filter when servicing but nothing, the injectors were pretty loud and I'd love to have them cleaned.
 

06 Dodge

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Why did you not pull the heads an sent to the machine shop to be cleaned & inspected and repaired if needed....
 

jws123

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Check your pushrods very easy to not click in place or even put it in the wrong hole I have also had one pop out of place with new lifters before it had time to pump up. It is also normal for new lifters to be loud mine took about 2k miles and another oil change for things to settle down what is not normal is the hesitation.
 

Wild one

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I also checked for shavings where I could, like the vvt solenoid and the oil filter when servicing but nothing, the injectors were pretty loud and I'd love to have them cleaned.
Get ahold of Rob Winkworth at Cutter-up,he does diesal injectors,but i'm pretty sure he can also do gas injector cleaning and flow testing.He's just off Macleod trail.

 
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chaten

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Check your pushrods very easy to not click in place or even put it in the wrong hole I have also had one pop out of place with new lifters before it had time to pump up. It is also normal for new lifters to be loud mine took about 2k miles and another oil change for things to settle down what is not normal is the hesitation.
I spun the engine by hand and found on the right side 1 pushrod on the intake wasn't moving due to being in the wrong hole, after I checked all others with my scope camera. It's interesting that ot took you 2k miles to settle dawn as I only put mabey 2miles on it and then took the intake and valve covers off for a closer look. I used the stethoscope again. At this point I'm hoping it's like you said " need time to settle" my mds solenoid ohms are in spec but hope one might not be closing or a fuel injector causing knock retard. Which was -15⁰ before to -5.8⁰ after
 

jws123

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I spun the engine by hand and found on the right side 1 pushrod on the intake wasn't moving due to being in the wrong hole, after I checked all others with my scope camera. It's interesting that ot took you 2k miles to settle dawn as I only put mabey 2miles on it and then took the intake and valve covers off for a closer look. I used the stethoscope again. At this point I'm hoping it's like you said " need time to settle" my mds solenoid ohms are in spec but hope one might not be closing or a fuel injector causing knock retard. Which was -15⁰ before to -5.8⁰ after
If you can upload a vid of it running wil tell ya if lifters sound normal for being new.
 
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chaten

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If you can upload a vid of it running wil tell ya if lifters sound normal for being new.
Ok I will try tonight. I'll put the mds solenoids in and intake back on
 
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chaten

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Changed the left intake and exhaust rockers and seemed to sound a little better, definitely took the play out. I'll order another set for the right and be done with it..... hopefully
Untill then it's a ticker
 
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chaten

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Nope, but Pretty much goes away when hot, probably been 1000km or so and sometimes I think it's a little better but I'm just fooling myself.
 

Ryan Plawucki

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I have a similar issue with my 12. I put a jay green cam and the hellcat lifters in a few summers ago. Iv had major issues trying to get this thing to run right. I dont always drive the truck and the frustration makes me not wana drive it as much as i should. I did his 1.5 hl kit. With the pushrods he sells. Heads were machined with a valve job a seals. Everything i put in was genuine mopar parts. Other then the cam and valve springs. Iv checked for collapsed lifters and pushrods out of place. No luck. Iv pressure checked the exhaust system for leaks. Nothing. I have long tubes on the truck and used the remtech gaskets. No leaks there. Truck will pull short tearm knock outta the driveway and 13 getting up to 70km. But once the truck is hot it wont pull any timing short tearm. Maybe 1 or 2 somtimes witch im fine with. I was originally getting long tearm because my jba long tube were rattling. I fixxed that. Iv put thicker oil in it since it doesn't have msd anymore. Engine sounds happier tho. Iv run sea foam thru it. Even tho it didnt have that much carbon when i had it appart. I put a can in the tank aswell thinking maybe a injector. The sound is only from the drivers side tho. The passenger side doesn't really have a tic. Jay says the sound looks like it is coming from both sides thru the log. He doesn't really have any suggestions for me. I feel like iv tried most things. Including running over 100 octane witch made no difference. Iv went over the entire truck looking for loose bolts and stuff that could rattle and found a few things. But no change. When i had the valve covers off i watched the valves open and close. And experience no valve lash when everything was off cam lobe. Few rockers had very very minimal side to side movement but nothing excessive. I have no codes and no more ideas other then yanking the engine and i dont wana do that again. Thanks for anyone's help. Should have just spent the money on piston and a turbo instead of this cam, as my cam and lifters were fine before. Just figured when i swapped the trans to a 46rh i should pull the engine and do a cam aswell.
 
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chaten

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There's a YouTube video by Phillip Bradley showing corrosion in the c2 (orange) engine harness. Hard to see unless you de pin the plug. Someone even suggested putting a garden hose rubber oring behind the offending knock sensor
 
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chaten

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Alot of people say oil fixes but it definitely doesn't help this problem. I changer all Valves and both rocker arms on the offending side no change. Best I can think of other than con rods and wrist pins is that I've heard of longer pushrods. But there is also quite a process to tighten the rocker assembly down so? If I find any fix for me I'll post it.
 

Ryan Plawucki

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https://youtube.com/shorts/9Cx3AwNKBy8?feature=share3 here is a short video. I even trided putting some fiberglass heat matting over my knock sensors to try to make some muffs thinking maybe the echo in the headers might be doing it. To me to doesn't sound like a rod knock. It sounds exactly like a rocker tapping on a valve. But zero lash when i checked. Even after 2 days just sitting and they leaked down still tight still makes the sound when hot. Just no short tearm knock.
 

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