Time to build my truck, please advise.

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BrianO

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Aug 15, 2016
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Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9 HO Diesel
I am getting old, the midlife crisis is here, and I have an urge to tinker with my truck. Specs in Sig, it has electric brakes and a jake brake. Used to tow toys, it loves to work; I still get about 11mpg pulling the 5th wheel so am pretty pleased with that. It has 150k on it (almost broke in). I did a clutch replacement about six months ago, replaced the stock with a Southeast-clutch Stage 4 Flywheel Clutch, it's a bit noisier but working great. My ¾ synchro gear is shot but not worth fixing IMHO

I want it to sound meaner while being a useful utility tool, it's not a show truck, don't care about looks. I visualize a truck, beefed up rear end, short stacks, pushing upward 0f 5-600 hp and 1k torque. I need to be able to pull 10 tons of toys -- 5th wheel loaded is about 14000 lbs and a 6-7000 lb boat behind it. I am not sure how achievable that is, and if I cannot get there, that’s fine as well.

I cannot afford to have the “best” gauges/parts/tuner/upgrades, nor will I have the worst – I want things middle of the road that will get the job done. I went to a performance shop and listed $2500 worth of upgrades, and by the time they told me what I should be getting, we were up to $7k, and that was the parts, so it's time to do it myself and have some fun in the process. In the end, I think I need to do the following to get this rig where I want it:

Beef up suspension - Done - Nothing fancy
Beef up braking - Do a swap out on the front end to Gen 3 brakes for better stopping
Beef up engine and power - Power plus its cool for my little 4-11 wife to tool around in, she would rather drive the truck with crap AC in Arizona than her Mini, Durango or the 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee (this allows me to fund this --- WITHIN LIMITS)

So this is the opening salvo for me, for every upgrade, I realize that there is always a better, higher quality, fancier option - I do not want to buy crap, but I will not be in a parking lot with the hood open on a Friday night in a lawn chair either

Here is my plan, ready to push the “order” button and get to work but would love you guys to give me your opinion and tell me if I am missing anything dramatic:

Thinking I should start out with the following: Lift Pump-Intake Filter-Tuner-Gauges

Lift Pump – Have external stock one, It seems that I need to get it updates right off the bat. Question? = Will upgrading the pump boost performance at all? Or just set the stage for future upgrades.
Anyone have experience with the airdog pumps? Seem to be rated pretty well and about $200 cheaper than the FASS pumps, Lifetime warranty as well so if they fail, they replace it. How about your thoughts on Pump only vs. Air Separators???

AirDog (R2SBD049) Raptor Lift Pump only– 100GPH 15-17PSI-- $288
AirDog (A4SPBD004) Fuel Air Separation System– 150 GPH –15-18 PSI -- $431
AirDog II (A5SPBD253) Fuel Air Separation System– 100 GPH – ADJ PSI -- $486

AirDog vs. AirDog II?
The AirDog II has the adjustable regulator, the pump and base are different internally. Pump assembly has a Dual Inlet design allowing more fuel to flow into the Gerotor; this allows the pump to increase volume without having to work any harder. Internally the fuel is redirected through passageways after being pressurized; this allows less fuel to be returned to the tank and more fuel to be held in the filters for a true "On Demand" system.

Intake Filter, was looking at these possibilities: any opinions on these?
S&B 75-5044 Cold Air Intake Kit for $269.00
aFe Power Magnum FORCE 51-80072 Intake System for $299.00

While I am at down at the turbo, I am going to remove the silencer ring, mainly because we love that sound. I realize that I am not going to get a lot of power doing this step. I am only doing it get this truck sounding good, that will keep the wife smiling, and that will keep the funds flowing.
I would like to upgrade the turbo one day, but guess there is a lot to do before I get to that stage.

On the intake side, I think that stock is acceptable at this point, have seen 700hp system still running the stock intake

Tuner – Thought are that I have the HO engine and from what I am reading there is a lot of untapped performance sitting there waiting to be released.

Looking at the Superchips 3845 Flashpaq F5 Tuner for $326.98 Tuner... From their website they state – “Estimated power gains: 115 hp and 270 ft. Lbs. Torque” Are they full of crap???

I know I could spend 2-3x more $$$ on a tuner, but that does not make sense to me at this point. Little steps. I could always move the tuner over to my Durango and get a better one in the future if needed, just seems like a good start and it is only $327

Gauges – Going to get the following – Water Temp – Oil Pressure 0-100 – Trans Temp 100-260 – EGT 0-1600 – Boost -30 - +30 – Fuel Pressure –
Brands I am comparing – Autometer – Glowshift – Maxtron – Prosport – and Isspro -
Glowshift seems to have the best prices, but someone said they are not as accurate. Once again, I need something that will do the job, if the water temp is 220 and its reading 215, I am pretty sure I can live with that. Thoughts are welcome

So that is step one of my plan, tell me where I am going wrong, if I am missing something or if I should be doing something better. Been researching a while to find the best balance between cost, power, quality and ease of install.

Please do not just say, those suck, or that is stupid, tell me why, I know everyone has favorites and opinions, there is also ten ways to skin a cat.

Sorry about the length, drinking thru a firehose here but I do appreciate anyone commenting and suggesting - Regards, Brian
 

e_hartzell17

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Jul 26, 2016
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Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.2 318
For the money the edge insight cts1 is really good and are glad the price of a new cts2 if you can find the cts1


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dudeman2009

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Location
Arizona
Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
I dont have very much experience building the older 5.9 Cummins. But one of the best things you can do for a diesel to improve its pulling power, is to gear that baby down and drive slower. I don't know what rear end you have in it, but if you want to pull all that, a minimum 4.10 ratio on the rear is a must in my opinion.

I don't know about the 2001 Cummins, but a buddy of mine has a Gen 3 with the Cummins and he got a tuner for his. When he put it on the dyno he was pushing 700-800 horsepower and 1400ft-lbs of torque. You should be able to hit at least 65% of that at around 500 horsepower. I'm pretty sure 1K ft-lbs is also possible, but maybe not for under 7K with all the other upgrades you're talking about. I have no clue how much my buddy paid on the Gen 3 for all his tuning.

As for the rear end, heavy duty airbags with a self leveling valve will be your best friend. If you dont want to do the work, or cant find anyone willing to do the work, there are electronic self leveling systems for airbags on pickups. I'm partial to the leveling valves on semis however, much simpler and very reliable. I helped a neighbor of mine retrofit a leveling valve off an old Peterbuilt onto his F450, worked awesome when he put the gooseneck loaded down with steel on it. Truck dropped to the axle stops when we let the jacks down, but slowly rose back up to the same ride height as before the trailer went on. Drove real nice too.

Also, dont forget to get bigger injectors and the required tune for them, thats where a ton of power will come from. Or if you decide not to, at least service your current injectors.
 

dapepper9

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Location
Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
What i would change is use the factory aorbox with a drop in filter and use the money saved to get better tuning. Quadzilla Adrenaline box is about 200 more than that superchips bit is much better or Smarty allows for slightly more custom tuning or Edge is able to use the box for the gauges you're looking at buying as well and may be a nice way to save a little cash again
 
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BrianO

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Aug 15, 2016
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Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9 HO Diesel
Well, Stage one upgrades are complete, here is what I did -

-- Gauges - Glowshift - Pyro, Water Temp, Boost, Fuel Pressure, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure, got everything in and kept all the stock stuff running as well, had to tap the oil filter mount for the pressure

-- Suspension Bags on the rear end for towing and give it a little lift/rake while driving around, Upgraded Shocks and replaced sway bar drop arms

-- AirDog 150 GPM installed, yanked the old pump/filter and capped the exposed hole in block

-- S&B Cold Air Intake

-- Edge Comp up and running

-- While at it, HID Headlights, LED Tail-lights - re-wired everything from the tank back, lots of clean up

-- 5 inch exhaust from Turbo back, straight piped

Must say, pretty impressed, it really screams, can break the tires in 4th gear, course the bed was not on, but it definitely has made a huge difference.

Went with the glowshift gauges - was told that if I find one that is not reading accurate, that they would replace or refund so that was good enough for me.

Couple of questions?

Seems like I am having that 1/4 tank fuel issue - if fuel is getting low, I am seeing huge fuel pressure drops (down to 1-3 pounds), Fill tank - problem goes away. Seems like this is common with pumps with the tube that is tapped in. Any suggestions would help

Boost fooler, is there any value to putting that in? Pretty cheap but not quite sure if there is value to it with what I have done.

Now to start thinking about the 2nd round - any advice on what is next??? Thinking injectors? Turbo? Read about needing to upgrade head bolts?
 

auskip07

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Aug 13, 2015
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s
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s
Seems like I am having that 1/4 tank fuel issue - if fuel is getting low, I am seeing huge fuel pressure drops (down to 1-3 pounds), Fill tank - problem goes away. Seems like this is common with pumps with the tube that is tapped in. Any suggestions would help


You sure your fuel gauge is reading correctly maybe its lower
 
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