dakotakid846
Member
Trying to track down a no crank, no start. Does it matter what the orientation is of the 4 pin relays in the tipm? Been pulling them and checking them but don't know if I'm putting them back correctly?
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The removable relays (should be roughly a dozen of them) in the box can only go back in one direction,but if you're referring to the bigger glass topped fuses or any of the smaller fuses they can be installed in either direction. Find the starter relay pull it and jump across the terminals marked #3 and 5 on the bottom of the relay,it'll be one of the bigger square relays (should be about 6 of them ,so it's not to hard to find),if the starter kicks in,you probably have a bad starter relayTrying to track down a no crank, no start. Does it matter what the orientation is of the 4 pin relays in the tipm? Been pulling them and checking them but don't know if I'm putting them back correctly?
I'm sure there are some that are soldered in onto the bottom of the TIPM. There are the ones that are on top.Fuses are made to come out, most relays are not. Are you sure they aren't soldered in on your truck?
These are 4 pin relays...can go in either direction. Either the 30 or 87 would be on the B+, but does it matter?The removable relays (should be roughly a dozen of them) in the box can only go back in one direction,but if you're referring to the bigger glass topped fuses or any of the smaller fuses they can be installed in either direction. Find the starter relay pull it and jump across the terminals marked #3 and 5 on the bottom of the relay,it'll be one of the bigger square relays (should be about 6 of them ,so it's not to hard to find),if the starter kicks in,you probably have a bad starter relay
Generally on a normal relay,30 is the hot/power side,and 87 goes to the load sideThese are 4 pin relays...can go in either direction. Either the 30 or 87 would be on the B+, but does it matter?
I jumped the starter relay and it turns over. Swapped it out with another relay and still nothing. Also tested the soldered in fuel pump relay and that works when bypassed.
Isn't there another relay that switches/sends power to it to use? Like when the key is on it powers up certain banks of power pins.These are 4 pin relays...can go in either direction. Either the 30 or 87 would be on the B+, but does it matter?
I jumped the starter relay and it turns over. Swapped it out with another relay and still nothing. Also tested the soldered in fuel pump relay and that works when bypassed.
If you jumped terminals 30 and 87 on the starter relay and it turned over,but won't turn over with the relay in place,you have a wiring issue between the key and the fuseboxIsn't there another relay that switches/sends power to it to use? Like when the key is on it powers up certain banks of power pins.
If you jumped terminals 30 and 87 on the starter relay and it turned over,but won't turn over with the relay in place,you have a wiring issue between the key and the fusebox
Agreed...no fuel pump either when the key hits the start position. Almost sounds like an ignition or anti theft immobilizer. But any idea how to check either?
I had it in my mind just using the battery terminal and applying voltage to the load slot where the fuse goes towards solenoid.
DeleteI had it in my mind just using the battery terminal and applying voltage to the load slot where the fuse goes towards solenoid. My 2014 has no fuel pump relay you can pull, do 2011s have a serviceable fuel pump relay? He mentions that doesn't work either.
Does the ASD relay not supply power to the fuel pump relay?
"Also tested the soldered in fuel pump relay and that works when bypassed." <how did you test this out?
Which is why I used an inline fuseWhatever you do, never bypass the fuse or circuit breaker without any current limiting protection.
NEVER NEVER NEVER!
If this isn't very clear, ask more questions before proceeding.
Fuses & circuit breakers protect wire gauges and devices from attempting to pass current that exceeds the design. And in some cases, welding parts to other parts, injuring users, and in some instances death.
I've spent many years working with industrial 3-phase power equipment but starter motors themselves are good for about 300 Amps. that's sufficient for welding.
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I'll take a picture. I really don't. I checked every relay when trying to troubleshoot an issue and none of them are for fuel pump.You better go look in your fuse box under the hood a little better,you have a fuel pump relay in your 14,it's one of the 5 pin square relays,hard to miss.His 2011 might not though,as the fuel pump relay fix is for the 2011 and earlier trucks. Look the inside of your fuse box cover over close,it'll show you which relay is the pump relay
Is your truck an early 14,i just went and looked at my neighbours late 13 built truck,and his is a bit differant then my late built 14 is,so you might be correctI'll take a picture. I really don't. I checked every relay when trying to troubleshoot an issue and none of them are for fuel pump.
I watched some people troubleshoot online and they found similar setups on a '14, that's when I thought I learned it was soldered on TIPM...
I don't wanna take away from the OP's thread here and derail the convo.
No the 2011 has no serviceable fuel pump relay. But if I put a bypass cable from the 12v power outlet fuse to the fuel pump fuse, the fuel pump runs when the key is inserted and turned to run. Basically just verifying that the pump works.I had it in my mind just using the battery terminal and applying voltage to the load slot where the fuse goes towards solenoid. My 2014 has no fuel pump relay you can pull, do 2011s have a serviceable fuel pump relay? He mentions that doesn't work either.
Does the ASD relay not supply power to the fuel pump relay?
"Also tested the soldered in fuel pump relay and that works when bypassed." <how did you test this out?
Not having a wiring diagram makes anything beyond checking fuses and relays rather impossible...
Usually these have the wiring diagrams in themNo the 2011 has no serviceable fuel pump relay. But if I put a bypass cable from the 12v power outlet fuse to the fuel pump fuse, the fuel pump runs when the key is inserted and turned to run. Basically just verifying that the pump works.
Not having a wiring diagram makes anything beyond checking fuses and relays rather impossible...might just have to bring this one in to get looked at.
I'm assuming the ASD relay does supply power to the fuel pump relay...the asd relay was opening and closing very rapidly when this problem initially began and the fuel pump was fluttering at the same pace.