Tow hitch quality

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Mittens

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I need a hitch... the thing with the ball wellded to the tube that slides into the receiver. I'm finding prices from $20-100+. There doesn't seem to be a ton of differences, but there's got to be something. Ignoring the adjustable stuff- just need a regular ole hitch. The only real things I've noticed is that some are solid and some are a hollow tube, but rated the same. Are they all the same?
 

crash68

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If you plan on leaving the hitch in the receiver all the time, buy a hollow one that meets the capacity you need. You have a fighting chance to remove a hollow one if it gets stuck in the receiver from rust. Coating the outside with never- seize/greese might help prevent but it's a goy idea to pull it out every now and then to clean and reapply.
 

18CrewDually

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What are you doing with the hitch and how often? What size/weight trailer or multi-trailers. The ratings are the ratings but some maybe stainless or chrome plated so prices fluctuate, especially retail stores with brand names like Reese. If you just have the occasional jetski or something light then a Harbor Freight el cheapo is more than enough.
 
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Mittens

Mittens

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regular weekend trips will be <4k and very occasionally will pull around 10k. I was just curious cause I've seen some solid ones at work, but can't for the life of me find where to buy one. I can't even find opinions on hitches anywhere.
 

Wild one

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regular weekend trips will be <4k and very occasionally will pull around 10k. I was just curious cause I've seen some solid ones at work, but can't for the life of me find where to buy one. I can't even find opinions on hitches anywhere.
Find a local "hitch" shop,they'll be able to help you out

 

dhay13

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I bought my solid one from Tractor Supply. Mines solid and the ball and insert are rated to either 18,000 or 20,000. Just be sure both are rated to at least as much as you will tow. And if you are towing 10,000 you may want a WDH depending on what type of trailer so a regular insert wouldn't work anyway.
 

GTyankee

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670hoth

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By an American made one and you can't go wrong on quality. Check them close though because fewer and fewer are made in the US now.
 

dhay13

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I bought my solid one from Tractor Supply. Mines solid and the ball and insert are rated to either 18,000 or 20,000. Just be sure both are rated to at least as much as you will tow. And if you are towing 10,000 you may want a WDH depending on what type of trailer so a regular insert wouldn't work anyway.
BTW-mine is a Curt brand
 

KoboldTaco

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I’ve had good luck with eTrailer - all truck people and reviews are good. When you call them they do nothing but help and are chill folks. I personally am a huge fan of GenY hitches. Built like a brick s***house and versatile. I leave the empty on the truck as a bumper eater for idiots someday playing on their phones.
 

dhay13

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+1 for etrailer. Ordered from them a few times. Very fast shipping
 

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I use gen-y drop hitches. They exceed most vehicle towing capacity and come in all different sizes.
 

StNick

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You found that some receiver tubes are hollow and some are solid. Is it possible that the solid ones are Class 5? A class 4 is usually hollow but a class 5 is solid. A class 4 in Calif is rated at 10,000 pounds while a class 5 is 16000.
 

melvingeraldmesse

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Go to a farm store like Attwoods or tracker supply they have a good selection walmart dose too I like the 3 ball hitch with the hook one hitch does it all
 

dhay13

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You found that some receiver tubes are hollow and some are solid. Is it possible that the solid ones are Class 5? A class 4 is usually hollow but a class 5 is solid. A class 4 in Calif is rated at 10,000 pounds while a class 5 is 16000.
I had a solid one in my old 1500 with a Class IV hitch. The one I have now is a Class V solid
 

blahargoue

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I have found that generally solid shank inserts are used with weight distributing hitches. Inserts made from heavy wall tubing are general purpose hitch inserts.

A couple of things you didn't mention that you need to consider:

What size ball do you need? 1-7/8," 2," or 2-5/16"?

How much drop or rise do you need? This is important. It insures that your trailer sits level and adds to stability.

If you pull more than one trailer then the adjustable height inserts are a good way to go.
 
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Mittens

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My truck is stock and I think zero drop/rise would be fine. Looks like they're all about the same I guess. I was just curious if there were bad ones out there really. This is a very small piece of the system, but would be catastrophic if it failed. I just need a 1-7/8" and 2". I've never seen anything take 2-5/16" actually.

Go to a farm store like Attwoods or tracker supply they have a good selection walmart dose too I like the 3 ball hitch with the hook one hitch does it all
What's that hook even for? couldn't you just throw a strap over a ball? Seems redundant.
 

1 MEAN66

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regular weekend trips will be <4k and very occasionally will pull around 10k. I was just curious cause I've seen some solid ones at work, but can't for the life of me find where to buy one. I can't even find opinions on hitches anywhere.
I am not an engineer BUT it seems to me that somewhere in my history (almost 70 years) I read that the reason driveshafts ARE hollow was tha the majority of the strengh is in the "skin" of the metal. Besides the cost savings less mtal to purchase and obivious lighter weight. Driveshafts have a different purpose, but strengh is strengh? Cost difference has to do with many things, where it's made, labor rates, and quanties sold. I just got a used 2016 Ram, that was ordered with tow package - but also - Hitch delete ? So I need a hitch. My Dakota -that the Ram replaced was ordered by me with the"full" trailer tow package (class IV) I put a class V on the Ram, even though it is pulling the same trailer/car combo. Both IV & V were HD enough to do the job. But the Class IV was $395 the V was $229 ( bennin the O'Riellys store way to long - was at the give it away before we have to write it off price. Same brand and size of shoes different depending where and when you buy.
The hitch attaches to the vehicle. The ball mount can be part of a hitch (like a class 1- ball mount NOT removeable , or a seperate piece like class IV and V. the ball goes in the ball mount of course.
GTW - gross towing weight - Varies on all cass IV's & Class V's depending whether you are dropinmg the trailer on the ball or using a "weight equalizing" Coupler.
Bottom line buy and install a hitch that will exceed your needs, not the bare minium - 6,000 lb. rating to pull 6,000 lb. Rule of thumb last time I looked was "recommended" you use equallizing hitch if what is being towed is greater than 1/2 the weight of the tow vehicle. Equalizing "USED" for sure if weight - (GTW -trailer and whats on it or in it) is equal to/or greater than whats pulling it.
This is just BASIC info. call someone like Reese, Curt, etc. that makes and sells this "stuff". to verify the info. Find answers to when a trailer should have brakes, lights required, how AND WHY trailer ball height is determined and set (what parts are needed to accomplish this), how much weight MUST be on the ball - so your trailer does not wave to those on the road that are following you, and on and on. Be safe TOW SMART. Class dimissed you may all step out for a break.
 
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Mittens

Mittens

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I am not an engineer BUT it seems to me that somewhere in my history (almost 70 years) I read that the reason driveshafts ARE hollow was tha the majority of the strengh is in the "skin" of the metal. Besides the cost savings less mtal to purchase and obivious lighter weight. Driveshafts have a different purpose, but strengh is strengh? Cost difference has to do with many things, where it's made, labor rates, and quanties sold. I just got a used 2016 Ram, that was ordered with tow package - but also - Hitch delete ? So I need a hitch. My Dakota -that the Ram replaced was ordered by me with the"full" trailer tow package (class IV) I put a class V on the Ram, even though it is pulling the same trailer/car combo. Both IV & V were HD enough to do the job. But the Class IV was $395 the V was $229 ( bennin the O'Riellys store way to long - was at the give it away before we have to write it off price. Same brand and size of shoes different depending where and when you buy.
The hitch attaches to the vehicle. The ball mount can be part of a hitch (like a class 1- ball mount NOT removeable , or a seperate piece like class IV and V. the ball goes in the ball mount of course.
GTW - gross towing weight - Varies on all cass IV's & Class V's depending whether you are dropinmg the trailer on the ball or using a "weight equalizing" Coupler.
Bottom line buy and install a hitch that will exceed your needs, not the bare minium - 6,000 lb. rating to pull 6,000 lb. Rule of thumb last time I looked was "recommended" you use equallizing hitch if what is being towed is greater than 1/2 the weight of the tow vehicle. Equalizing "USED" for sure if weight - (GTW -trailer and whats on it or in it) is equal to/or greater than whats pulling it.
This is just BASIC info. call someone like Reese, Curt, etc. that makes and sells this "stuff". to verify the info. Find answers to when a trailer should have brakes, lights required, how AND WHY trailer ball height is determined and set (what parts are needed to accomplish this), how much weight MUST be on the ball - so your trailer does not wave to those on the road that are following you, and on and on. Be safe TOW SMART. Class dimissed you may all step out for a break.
I learnt a lot about this in my statics class. With I-beams, the flanges are where the strength comes from. The web is just there to keep the flanges apart. For basic calculations it’s incredibly simple. Of course this was a statics class. Once things start moving (bending/flexing) things change. It just seems like two tons on that cantilevered, hollow tube would be prone to kinking.

Here’s my hitch. It’s on the low end of class IV. There’s an aftermarket trailer brake. No clue if any of the wiring works.
CF055F1B-C763-43FD-93E2-741F1EBFB50A.jpegF247C722-5C37-4CCC-AA7B-ECC4868AD6DE.jpeg
 
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