Towing Heavy with a 1500 ... Who does it?

[Ox1500Sport]

Age old problem (and question) ~ 2014 1500 here ... Crew Cab, 4x4, 5.7L, & 3.92 in the rear. And I want to tow heavy.

My door sticker says GAWR (F & R) at 3,900 LB, GVWR at 6,900 LB, & Payload at 1,391 LB. ~Darn rear coil springs.

I've towed my prior Travel Trailer, a 26' w/ Tongue Wgt of 760 LB & UVW of 6,155 LB. I used a Equal-i-zer WDH, no bags ... the truck had no issues whatsoever.

Looking at another Travel Trailer, but this behemoth is 35' with a Tongue Wgt of 953 LB & UVW of 7,929 LB. Much heavier.

Why do I want to tow heavy? Well, I'd only tow "max" 2-times a year, on flat land, and about 100 miles (one way) each instance. Not really feeling taking out another mortgage to buy one of these new $$$$ trucks just for that. As well, the other 50-weeks of the year my truck is basically a commuter vehicle.

Now, I know all the math, ~this unit is too heavy. But, I also know folks are out there doing it. Any real-world experiences?

 

[Ramrodd]

I use to tow a 8500 lb UVW with a 10k lb gvwr and it towed it fine with no issues. My truck is a 2wd 09 1500 and I installed 4.10s and it has over 1500 lb payload. I installed the helper airbags and got a good WDH 10k lb equalizer. My truck has the 5 speed trans and it done fine but if you have the 8 speed it will do great.


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[jvbuttex]

Why do I want to tow heavy? Well, I'd only tow "max" 2-times a year, on flat land, and about 100 miles (one way) each instance. Not really felling taking out another mortgage to buy one of these new $$$$ trucks just for that.

so true... damm new trucks are CHA... CHINGGGGGG

 

[dhay13]

In my opinion you are asking for trouble. Not just the weight but 35' is a huge sail and the tail will be wagging the dog. A 35' will likely be over 40' tip to tail. My sons 26' is 32' tip to tail. I towed it about 200 miles with my 1500 and it wasn't fun and I have been towing since I was 18 (33 years). A semi goes by you I'd be slowing to about 40 MPH cause it won't be fun.

What is the weight? My son's is 6700 dry. Guessing here but I'd say it was about 7500-8000lbs when I towed it. It was brand new and empty as delivered from the dealer

 

[GsRAM]

If you can figure out how to maintain proper tongue weight (10-15%) and stay under your GRAWR when fully loaded you should be able to do it.

With that said would I personally tow a 35' long trailer with a half ton truck? No. That 35 footer is like a gigantic sail and the weight and mass of an HD truck helps to control that sail. Going from a 26 foot tt to a 35 footer your going into a whole 'nother league. You want that big rig? Then you gotta pay to play!

Good luck.

 

[NH RAM]

I towed my Coleman 2855BH (about 6,000lb dry, 733# hitch) which is 31.5' tip to tail with my 2016 Ram 1500 with 3.21. You will have a bit of difficulty with passing trucks and wind. I had E-rated tires, airbags, Blue Ox Swaypro. Don't get me wrong, the hitch corrected the sway, but there were a few times where I got white knuckles traveling through the mountains of New Hampshire because the crosswinds would continually cause the trailer and truck to sway and correct. You will need to watch your rear axle weight on the truck, I towed a few times where I was a few hundred pounds over rear axle rating with no drama but I didn't want to make a practice of it.

When I had my 26' travel trailer, I drove it without issue from NH to CO and back. I wouldn't do the same with my current trailer, which is one reason I got into the 2500.

The problem is, you won't know how it handles or the actual towing weight until you try. With nearly 1000# dry weight, you have to add propane, battery, truck passengers, and camping stuff and your payload goes very fast. It might work, but I suspect you'll be uncomfortable towing it. 100 miles isn't much and twice a year isn't often. I regularly saw 5W campers on the back of 1500's in Canada- they had the 6'4 beds and crew cabs, so the wheelbase was about 1' longer and that may have helped with handling. The caveat to that is the speed limits were 80kmh/50mph so it's not as significant when a large truck passes and it was easier towing at those speeds.

Everyone has different levels of aversion to risk, it's a matter of what you're comfortable with and what you can justify.

 

[rule18]

Getting going, and staying in a lane is one thing, stopping is another. The 1500 brakes are what they are. Having dragged 80k lbs around the country for a while, I've seen and learned all sorts of interesting things on the road. Think twice and be a bit careful. Good luck!

 

[Ramcharger60]

Age old problem (and question) ~ 2014 1500 here ... Crew Cab, 4x4, 5.7L, & 3.92 in the rear. And I want to tow heavy.

My door sticker says GAWR (F & R) at 3,900 LB, GVWR at 6,900 LB, & Payload at 1,391 LB. ~Darn rear coil springs.

I've towed my prior Travel Trailer, a 26' w/ Tongue Wgt of 760 LB & UVW of 6,155 LB. I used a Equal-i-zer WDH, no bags ... the truck had no issues whatsoever.

Looking at another Travel Trailer, but this behemoth is 35' with a Tongue Wgt of 953 LB & UVW of 7,929 LB. Much heavier.

Why do I want to tow heavy? Well, I'd only tow "max" 2-times a year, on flat land, and about 100 miles (one way) each instance. Not really feeling taking out another mortgage to buy one of these new $$$$ trucks just for that. As well, the other 50-weeks of the year my truck is basically a commuter vehicle.

Now, I know all the math, ~this unit is too heavy. But, I also know folks are out there doing it. Any real-world experiences?

I am towing a 9k lb 34ft camper with my 1500 but did several upgrades. I have timber grove auto level air system, Helwig sway bars and powerstop drilled/ slotted brake rotors with HD tow pads. I also have the Reese dual cam hitch. It pulls fine on flat ground in Florida. I have not had it in the hills yet. I do not have any sway but I can feel the wind from passing trucks. With the dual cam hitch it moves the whole truck and trailer together but I have never felt uneasy with it I just anticipate the turbulence and keep two hands on the wheel

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[Ramrodd]

I use to tow a 8500 lb UVW with a 10k lb gvwr and it towed it fine with no issues. My truck is a 2wd 09 1500 and I installed 4.10s and it has over 1500 lb payload. I installed the helper airbags and got a good WDH 10k lb equalizer. My truck has the 5 speed trans and it done fine but if you have the 8 speed it will do great.


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I forgot to mention I towed it like this thru the smokies and it did fine.


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[avantiguy]

Why not just go to Enterprise or other rental company and rent a 2500/3500 for your needs. A good friend needed to tow a large trailer to Northern Michigan so he just rented a Ford F-350 from Enterprise for the trip.

 

[68PowerWagon]

For just a couple times a year I think you will be fine. You might want to do some upgrades as others have done on here to beef it up. Spending a crap ton of cash on a 3/4 ton for a couple times a year seems foolish. If you set up your truck right, you should be able to pull & stop that trailer with little problems.

 

[VernDiesel]

Ox I do it for a living with a 2014 Ram 1500. TTs that is from Mfgrs plants to dealerships continental 48 682,000 miles. Ecodiesel with tune about 465 TQ including turbo brake, factory trailer brake controller, 3.92, WDH with built in sway control, axle to frame air bags, 265/60/20 E load hwy tires.

Mostly trailers are in the 6 to 7k range but I have done a few the size you are talking about. Expect your 7929 to turn into 9k wet with batteries propane minimal water & supplies. Proper CAT scale set up with adjustments to your WDH plus TT & bed loading to get your tongue weight down to about 12 percent or 960 pounds ideally as determined by your cat scale slips truck only to truck plus TT. Also to getting your steer weight back up to about 3,300-3,400 is the main keys for a safe stable tow. 12 percent TW is sufficient to 65 mph for box TT. Set up like this wind gusts or semi bow wave should not push & suck and move your truck & trailer like an accordion but rather just push you a bit as if the truck & trailer were one unit. Feeling this is confirmation your hitch & loading is optimized.

I took a 33’ floor plan 3 slide Forrest River Wildcat Max 9,100 Pounds a 1,000 miles from Portland OR to LA CA down the 5 up & over 5 & 6 percent grades by Mount Shasta & up the grapevine. No wind or sway issues but I didn’t hit any bad wind and never went over 65. If I had hit wind I would have took a break. In my case the turbo brake plus TBC makes brakes a non issue. I could hold my speed down a grade without touching my truck brakes keeping them cool & fresh should I need to make an emergency stop. She did slow to 50 mph going up and I had to manage my temps so the computer wouldn’t pull fuel but you would not have that with the Hemi. Although no turbo brake with a Hemi.

 

[chris_p]

Following This thread. I have a2017 Laramie 1500 with the same rear in it. I looked up towing and payload by the vin number on rams website. It said I can tow 8100 lbs and 1100 payload. I just got a camper that I pick up this friday. It has a 700 lbs tounge weight and 6500 empty. I added air lift air bags to the rear coils. Hopefully it will be ok with the wdh and sway bars put in. If not, maybe time for a trade in. Ha!

 

[VernDiesel]

Chris it will do your 7,500 pound wet camper well if you learn to set it up well. When using a WDH tongue weight is dynamic not static. When using a CAT scale to set it up I adjust toward 12 Percent tongue weight as is calculated from your scale slips. The other main thing well for safety & stability is to replace when loaded & adjusted your unloaded steer axle weight which should be around 3,300. This way it steers handles & stops that load well.

Some guys load or distribute their camper & truck bed weight poorly drop it on the ball (flying blind) and have the nose of their truck riding high. This is unstable & somewhat of an accident waiting to happen. Yep they need a bigger truck for the same load to compensate their lack of set up. Naturally their is a limit hense your Mfgr safe limits such as the 8,100, 3,900 per axle etc which is seen on your scale slips. CAT has a free app and locator and scales near every major city. Cost is usually around $12 and $2 for each adjustment weigh.

 

[glwhitetail]

We do the same here, mine is 37' long and just over max tow weight. I have done upgraded brakes on the truck and installed the hd helper bags to assist but honestly haven't inflated beyond my stock ride psi when towing as it has not been needed. Cannot over look at good weight distribution hitch though.

 

[Snacktime]

I wouldn't buy the trailer or I would buy a bigger truck. I am tired of the road hazards travel trailers that can't stay in their lane or keep out of a semi truck way up hill.

If you can afford the trailer then you can afford truck. It's a package deal!

 

[VernDiesel]

You just have the standard truck driver aversion to stupid four wheeler drivers. Lol you can guess how I know.

 

[Tunaman]

Getting going, and staying in a lane is one thing, stopping is another. The 1500 brakes are what they are. Having dragging 80k lbs around the country for a while, I've seen and learned all sorts of interesting things on the road. Think twice and be a bit careful. Good luck!

Proper brake control and brakes on the trailer stopping is no problem, the trailer brakes are capable and then some of stopping the trailer.....IF they are maintained. MOST excessive sway is due to improper load balance. I.E. load leveling hitch, proper hitch height.

 

[rule18]

Proper brake control and brakes on the trailer stopping is no problem, the trailer brakes are capable and then some of stopping the trailer.....IF they are maintained. MOST excessive sway is due to improper load balance. I.E. load leveling hitch, proper hitch height.

Of course, correct. I didn't want to go down the rabbit hole, just posting a short overview...

 

[chris_p]

About 6900lbs on the trailer, about 800 tongue weight. Airlift air bags at 35 psi. Towed great. No sways or other issues. However the 8.5 mpg may do me in lol