Towing RPMs range for best power. 2017 quad cab 5.7l 3.92 rear end pulling 8600 max. Travel trailer.

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Camper Pete

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When pulling on fairly level grades the RPM range is 2400-2800. When pulling uphill on long stretch @ 3-5% grade it kicks up to 3200. I am ok with that but if it is a very long pull uphill it will sometimes kick up to 4000 RPMs. Should I be concerned or is this findig the best power range for the job.
 

RamFP620

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I have the exact same set up. 7th gear at ~2500 gives me about 65mph.
I may be crazy, but when I do up hills, I pick a gear and an RPM range and what ever speed that equates to, that's the speed I stay with. It's all about not pushing it too hard and keeping the temps reasonably in check. Personally, I stick with low 3000's and 5th or 6th gear (I think I can keep 45 MPH) because anything over that the oil temps seem to take off.
 

Gordo2212

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It's shifting to a lower gear for more power to get up the hill so higher RPM's should be expected. Sounds like it's working as designed. Just monitor your temps but if what your towing is within towing spec's then the truck should be fine.
 

Jughed

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My 6.4 is similar. When towing I set the cruise at 64+/- & lock out 6th gear, sometimes 5th. If its very windy or gently rolling the truck will bounce between 4th & 5th, so I lock 5th out.

In 4th it sits at about 2300 RMP at 64.

On long grades it will drop gears and hold at 36-3800 RPM. Truck maintains speed and temp gages don't really move.

Gas engines need to spin at higher RPMs to make the required torque.
 

ramffml

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That's 100% exactly what you want to happen. My truck sits at 2300 rpms as well, it will upshift at times if I let it but I lock it out so that it holds a min of 2300 on the freeway. You don't want to lug your engine while towing, that's the fastest way to heat it up.

Sometimes when I'm approaching a hill that I know its going to downshift on, I will force a downshift sooner so that I can hold my speed up; otherwise first it would lose speed, and then downshift, and then you're worse off than if you had forced the downshift earlier; at that point you may need a second downshift because you lost too much speed/rpms. You're still a better judge of what gear you need when you can see the road or traffic up ahead and predict what will happen, your computer can only react to what is happening now, so don't be afraid to override it.

So you're truck sounds great to me, just keep an eye on the oil temp if it's a blistering day outside and you're doing 4000+ rpms for minutes at a time. They are designed to run hot (emissions + fuel efficiency), hotter than they have in the past. A lot of us run a 100% full synthetic oil (not a blend) since they are far better at high temps than conventional oil.
 

RamFP620

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Sometimes when I'm approaching a hill that I know its going to downshift on, I will force a downshift sooner so that I can hold my speed up; otherwise first it would lose speed, and then downshift, and then you're worse off than if you had forced the downshift earlier; at that point you may need a second downshift because you lost too much speed/rpms. You're still a better judge of what gear you need when you can see the road or traffic up ahead and predict what will happen, your computer can only react to what is happening now, so don't be afraid to override it.
Another great driving technique.
 

GsRAM

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As others have stated, what you are experiencing is totally normal. Welcome to towing heavy with a small block, gas V8.

Remember, these engines make most of their power in the upper rpm range and they are designed to run up there without issue or concern.

As stated, he diligent about your maintenance, watch your engine and oil temps, use good quality full synthetic oil and good filters (no orange can fram junk) and run it.

I like the sound of a V8 in the upper rpm band. Music to this old gear heads ears. Good luck.
 

Robert Mc

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Sometimes when I'm approaching a hill that I know its going to downshift on, I will force a downshift sooner so that I can hold my speed up; otherwise first it would lose speed, and then downshift, and then you're worse off than if you had forced the downshift earlier; at that point you may need a second downshift because you lost too much speed/rpms. You're still a better judge of what gear you need when you can see the road or traffic up ahead and predict what will happen, your computer can only react to what is happening now, so don't be afraid to override it.
^^^This right here.

I do this all the time as well even with my 2500 SLT w/6.7L Cummins. As I approach a long grade I get off the accelerator a little and drop down a gear or two with the DSG to keep it from trying to get into a higher gear. Hold your speeds steady after it shifts and enjoy the torque curve in the lower gear.
 
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I have about the same setup, 1500, CC, 4WD, 3.92, 8-speed, 5.7l, ~8k travel trailer. I run here in the southwest (Nevada, Arizona, Southern Utah mostly), so have some big mountains to climb. Like other posters have said, I don't like to push it beyond 4k rpm. If I find the truck going there, I usually just keep it 3500-4000, and take whatever speed it'll give me. I don't change gear manually, let the computer figure that out. I use the tow package temp gauges on the center console to keep an eye on temps, but have never had an issue, even when its 110 outside.
 

Robeffy

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Why I bought a Cummins Turbo Diesel... Ya, its more money up front, but, cheaper fuel, better resale, no issues about towing.
 

erik53

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With my 1500 3.6L I see similar behavior, pulling 3,700 lbs. Often going up 6% grades in AZ heat, at about 7,000 ft elevation. RPM will go above 4,000 and then it takes less than a minute for the temp gauge to start climbing. The little engine has the power to continue at 55, but I learnt to watch it and slow down, and turn off the A/C, or I will get a temp warning. I am learning from this thread: I am not the only one who experiences the limits of the cooling system. 2. Downshift in anticipation. I have questions about the cooling system limits, but better put that in a separate thread.
 

crash68

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I do this all the time as well even with my 2500 SLT w/6.7L Cummins. As I approach a long grade I get off the accelerator a little and drop down a gear or two with the DSG to keep it from trying to get into a higher gear.
That's fine for a NA gasser but your CTD will build boost and pull right through probably without needing to shift unless your heavily loaded. Unless it's needed, your not doing the CTD any favors by dropping gears. Any engine pulls the most efficiently when around the torque peak which for the CTD around 1600 rpms and the Hemi around 4000 rpms.
 
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