Trailer Brake Controller 82215040AC

[Flatblack79]

Trying to track down a Mopar 82215040AC trailer brake kit. Everywhere shows them on Backorder. Is there a superseded part number or are these things stuck on a slow boat from china?

 

[Dark Knight 500]

That is the most up to date number.


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[Flatblack79]

Found one on amazon from a dealer in California. Hopefully it isnt a fake

 

[Flatblack79]

Got it installed and programmed using AlphaOBD.

Heres the process for anyone that may need it.

Connect to body computer
Car configuration change
CustSetMenu 2 - trailer selected CSM =yes
CustSetMenu 2-trailer name CSM = yes
CustSetMenu 2 - Trailer Type CSM = Yes
P/T Chassis Net - ITBM/HWM Integrated Trailer Brake Module = Enable


I tested with my car trailer and everything works. I did have to let the truck sit for an hour or so before it showed on the uconnect screen settings.

 

[zepcom]

Thanks FlatBlack79, I am about to pull the trigger on a 82215040AC kit and I was looking for the information on AlfaODB programming! Thank you!

 

[Rebob0510]

This Thread is perfect, Just getting ready to order my brake controller/ tablet and alpha obd software. Thanks you!

 

[Rebob0510]

Got it installed and programmed using AlphaOBD.

Heres the process for anyone that may need it.

Connect to body computer
Car configuration change
CustSetMenu 2 - trailer selected CSM =yes
CustSetMenu 2-trailer name CSM = yes
CustSetMenu 2 - Trailer Type CSM = Yes
P/T Chassis Net - ITBM/HWM Integrated Trailer Brake Module = Enable


I tested with my car trailer and everything works. I did have to let the truck sit for an hour or so before it showed on the uconnect screen settings.

Quick question, Does your truck have the full center console? I have seen videos of the install on the bench seat but I have the full console and wasnt sure if the radio trim came off with the console intact.


Thanks!!!

 

[zepcom]

Can now say that I successfully installed and set up the new trailer brake controller!


edit : cannot post any pictures of my install. Oh well.



Overall it took about an hour from start to finish, including programming. Will test it with a trailer tomorrow.

Protip: The bracket is crazy hard to install with those provided screws, as they come in from the back and anchor into the bracket with excessive force. I opted instead for 3 mini zipties that were sinched tight and trimmed to fit, and that did the job just fine!

Very happy with this project!

—zepcom

 

[zepcom]

Quick question, Does your truck have the full center console? I have seen videos of the install on the bench seat but I have the full console and wasnt sure if the radio trim came off with the console intact.


Thanks!!!

Mine has the full center console, there is a few more steps.

first off, at the top of the center stack where that mini pocket is, remove the little rubber inset (Mine says RAM on the pastic bit) ... under the rubber will be two screws. remove those. Next, to remove that plastic part that says RAM at the very top of the center stack, use a trim removal tool to gently pry up, it will slide out fron the front and leave a small hole. At this point you can probably pull the top area of the center stack away from the radio screen, gently but firmly. If you have the console, no not go further!!

there are two small side triangle panels in each of the footwells that also have to come off, they are held in with 3 pressure pins. Under there there is a small screw at an angle (one on LHS footwell, one in RHS footwell, remove those.

If I could post pictures I have most of this shown... but oh well, probably gotta get my post count up. Anyways.... back to the center stack.

Then pull up the rubber way at the front of the center console,right where the center stack and the console merge. Under there are two more screws to remove.

Then pull out the rubber mat under where the cig lighter is, the open galley with two different height levels, next to the cupholders. Under here is one 8mm or 10mm bolt. Remove that.

Now with the big center console lid opened all the way (the deep one) grab the horizontal par that houses the cupholders and the cubbies previously mentioned and gently pull upwards and towards the back of the truck. there will be a few wires, these don’t need to be disconnected, as the center console only needs to move out and backwards about an inch.

Now at this point, grab firmly the trim piece that is the top center stack, starting from the top, pop it out gently as you go down. Lots of wires, obviously, but i was able to lean it topside towards the rear of the truck and bottomside of the center stack away enough in-order to get access to the final 4 philips screes that hold in the button panel. remove those 4 screws and be careful not to drop any. I came in down from the top but it was somewhat tricky.

Note to fully remove it after you have removed the 4 screws, gently pull away from the catches holding it in place. Should be easy.

At this point you can reposition the button row closer to you, and the wire that you will be plugging in (far leftmost slot) is in the dummy holster that you will be removing to install the new switch. With a pick tool or small flathead screwdriver, gently pry from the back where the little “catches are” for that blank panel. Your new switch goes in right in its place, plug in the plug, then reverse the above steps to reassemble!

When you get the center stack back fully in position and snapped into place, then just “pop” the horizontal console piece back in and replace the screws and rubber pieces.

Maybe once I get a few more posts, I can embed the pictures that I took to help others accomplish this awesome mod!

Anyways, hope the text version does the trick for ya!!

—zepcom


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[Rebob0510]

Thank you so much for the detailed reply, My brake controller will be here on Tuesday and ill be ready to tackle that project. I see you are a fellow New Yorker... I live in Syracuse

Thanks again!!!!
Rob

 

[Flatblack79]

One thing ill add to this is youll likely need to change the setting to "Heavy Electric" for your trailers. It defaulted to "Light" and would barely actuate the brakes even set to 10. Set it to Heavy and now its skidding the tires a 7.5 on my 20' open trailer.

 

[Steve Pugh]

Just ordered my brake switch kit. Should arrive early next week. Thanks @zepcom for your detailed explanation as I have the full console also. Looks like I need to allow a little more time to get this install done.

BTW - does anyone know of an alternative to AlfaOBD for iPhone in the same functional and price range?

Thanks again,
Steve

 

[kad]

BTW - does anyone know of an alternative to AlfaOBD for iPhone in the same functional and price range?

99.9% Certain that there is not. Your best bet would be to pick up a cheap android phone or tablet from eBay.

-K

 

[Flatblack79]

Just ordered my brake switch kit. Should arrive early next week. Thanks @zepcom for your detailed explanation as I have the full console also. Looks like I need to allow a little more time to get this install done.

BTW - does anyone know of an alternative to AlfaOBD for iPhone in the same functional and price range?

Thanks again,
Steve

Im using an old Galaxy s3 that wont even keep a charge to run alpha. You can use a Kindle tablet if you dont have an old android phone. Pretty sure you can get them for less than $100.

 

[Steve Pugh]

Man, I've been resisting Droids for years now. Hmmm, I see they have a Windows version too. I have a laptop and wondering if that’s gonna work. I’ll let y’all know.

 

[Steve Pugh]

Can now say that I successfully installed and set up the new trailer brake controller!


edit : cannot post any pictures of my install. Oh well.



Overall it took about an hour from start to finish, including programming. Will test it with a trailer tomorrow.

Protip: The bracket is crazy hard to install with those provided screws, as they come in from the back and anchor into the bracket with excessive force. I opted instead for 3 mini zipties that were sinched tight and trimmed to fit, and that did the job just fine!

Very happy with this project!

—zepcom

I agree that was being difficult. My solution was to pre-drive the screws and create the threads in the bracket before I got on my back to install it. Worked like a charm.

 

[Steve Pugh]

It appears that I'm either confused or have the wrong part. The connector in my 2018 RAM SLT doesn't fit the switch. The harness connector has 12 conductor slots while the switch has only 10 pins. Can anyone enlighten me? thanks. Steve

OEM Trailer Brake Switch

• Steve Pugh
• Jun 27, 2020

Switch I received showing 10 pins

Spare connector close up

• Steve Pugh
• Jun 27, 2020

Only connector I found in the area showing 12 conductor holes

Spare connector in its dummy holder

• Steve Pugh
• Jun 27, 2020
• 1

This shows where I found the only spare connector behind the console.

update: My apologies. I was confused. The connector was not tied or bundled up anywhere. It also was not the green one I posted photos of. I think that connector is for 4 wheel drive control. The brake control switch connector had been plugged into the blank that I removed from the hole for the switch. Maybe this information will help someone else.

All installed and works. My security bypass adapter will be here next week and I’ll program it in then.

 

[zepcom]

Im using an old Galaxy s3 that wont even keep a charge to run alpha. You can use a Kindle tablet if you dont have an old android phone. Pretty sure you can get them for less than $100.

what I would up doing is getting the $50 amazon kindle with the startup advertising, followed an internet guide for how to disable kindle store and enable android store, and then loaded alfa onto that. Its cool for me because its small enough to fit in the upper glovebox compartment and I can get it out anytimr I want to read codes or program my truck.

—zepcom


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[jr27236]

So for a 16 limited looks like i need part 82215040AC bit I also see 82215040AB being sold. I know they should be same as AC is just updated part number, but did they update the part in any way is my question?

 

[Ricks Ram]

So for a 16 limited looks like i need part 82215040AC bit I also see 82215040AB being sold. I know they should be same as AC is just updated part number, but did they update the part in any way is my question?

The last two letters are more of a production code change. They are constantly changing. There should be no difference in the part. Normally when they update or revise a part it gets a completely different part#.

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