Trailmaker’s PW Build Thread

[Trailmaker]

I bought my Wagon July 2019 and have been building my rig a little each month. With the help from this forum I gathered some great ideas. So far I have:

DiamondBack HD cover with 2 mini toolboxes and one full length cab-box
And headache rack.

6 Switch pod 30amp each

Ditch/A-Pillar mounts with Vision X flood beam

Randy Ellis Bullbar with Ridged lights

Electronic exhaust cut off/out

Resonator delete.

Rigid (back up) rear lights

ARB On-board air with two 3 gallon tanks.

Train horn

Mud Flaps

AMP Rear (under bumper) step

Sliders


In the works:

Front winch/bumper skid



In the future:

37” A/T

Trans skid

CB radio

Hand Gun mount

Rock lights- Undercarriage

Diff guards

Air Bags

2nd battery

Dual Alternators



I will walk through each mod separately and update this post as I add new mods.

 

[Travelin Ram]

That’s a nice list. Safe to assume you have the factory spray in liner?

 

[Trailmaker]

That’s a nice list. Safe to assume you have the factory spray in liner?

Yes sir. Every option but the ram boxes, duel alternator, and the adaptive cruise control

 

[Trailmaker]

My first mod was (or really it’s a bolt on accessory) the cover. I had experience with diamondback on my past trucks and knew I like how like they were but extremely durable as I would carry an ATV on top just like they advertise. I got it just a few weeks before I went on vacation last year so it was in my vacation thread last fall so I will not up load all the pictures just a few of it working.
The rack was to keep me from always having to haul a trailer for my lumber and to keep the ATV from going through the back window. The side boxes carry my straps and tow ropes. And the back box, houses my fishing gear and hand tools. I feel like this cover doubles the abilities on the truck bed. I put my guns and hunting gear in the bed to keep them dry and my kills on top till I drive out of the woods to skin them out. And then the big ice chest will go on top as well, to house my fresh meat/fish.

It takes 4 bolts to attached the center to the bed and the front and back slide into place on the center very quickly. The whole setup weighed in at 90lbs. The gas lifts have quick disconnects so you flip the back all the way over to carry a fridge or something tall without removing the section completely.

The rack takes about 30 minutes to bolt it to the front section with 12 bolts and all the hardware is stainless steel and the rack, boxes and cover is aluminum with a optional spray bedliner. It has not peeled or chipped yet.
Water proof even at the car wash.

 

[Trailmaker]

Second Mod was supposed to be from the Dealer. I had that rear step written into the sale price, but they could not get one for six weeks. Dealer called me and I brought it back to have it installed. The mechanics spent 30-45 minutes trying to put it on (window in waiting room overlooked the shop.) they said it was wrong one and don’t know when the right one would com in. but I said I keep it and try it myself, sure enough it was for a 1500 so I sold it to a “Rebel” and bought the AMP step.
It bolts in the same spot and pulls up just as tight. It comes with the hardware how do you remove some really big factory bumper bolts to install but it only took 15-20 minutes. My tailgate measured 39” from the ground, so the step comes in handy. I prefer the one on my Ford that was built in to the tailgate, but the step is better than no step and it did not break the bank.

 

[Trailmaker]

Happy Memorial Day! A Big Thank You to all that served and are still serving.

 

[MTRamFan]

Your mods are tastefully done. My Diamondback should ship this week hopefully.

What do you think about a drop in K&N air filter?

 

[Trailmaker]

Your mods are tastefully done. My Diamondback should ship this week hopefully.

What do you think about a drop in K&N air filter?

I have not gotten into the intake yet. But saved a couple in my cart till I decide if I want to modify the OEM box or not. There are a few baffles that restrict flow and could come out if I decided to get a tune. But it he stock setup it much better then the years before and I’m not convinced yet there is a more efficient box that is not noisy. Have you seen the air filter in this thing? It’s 4” deep! With the exhaust valve I now have I have been intrigued with the idea of better intake. I may add that to my future mod list. As far as the K&N, the ones that take oil are great till you over oil them and they get on your o2 Sensor or do not oil them enough. But the pros out weight the cons if you have those 2 in check. I’m over due an air filter so I need to do something soon.

as far as the diamondback cover, congrats. Not many guys can cough up that much money for a cover. But to me it is a lot more then just a cover. It has been a ladder for a roofing job and has been stadium seat for outdoor graduation...

 

[MTRamFan]

My service adviser at the local RAM dealer told me he as seen several of the OEM Mopar air filters that have been sucked in to the box the point of being deformed when they get very dirty. I dunno but he said he runs the K&N drop in in his RAM. Like you mentioned, the level oil re-oiling can be an issue. I am more concerned about it letting more particulates in to the motor. Maybe overthinking it as my 2012 Laramie had one for years with no issues.

Did you get the lights on your Randy Ellis bar yet?

What is the Resonator delete?

 

[Trailmaker]

My service adviser at the local RAM dealer told me he as seen several of the OEM Mopar air filters that have been sucked in to the box the point of being deformed when they get very dirty. I dunno but he said he runs the K&N drop in in his RAM. Like you mentioned, the level oil re-oiling can be an issue. I am more concerned about it letting more particulates in to the motor. Maybe overthinking it as my 2012 Laramie had one for years with no issues.

Did you get the lights on your Randy Ellis bar yet?

What is the Resonator delete?

So I just looked up the K&N air filter and the air filter surface square footage is greatly reduced on a 1 inch in depth on the K&N compared to 4 inches with OEM. so I’m not sure if you’re gaining more flow going that route.

I did get my lights for the bar but I have not installed them I will do a write up later this week when it’s complete.

The resonator is the last component in the exhaust system. I will go into detail on the Resonator delete as well.

 

[Trailmaker]

My service adviser at the local RAM dealer told me he as seen several of the OEM Mopar air filters that have been sucked in to the box the point of being deformed when they get very dirty. I dunno but he said he runs the K&N drop in in his RAM. Like you mentioned, the level oil re-oiling can be an issue. I am more concerned about it letting more particulates in to the motor. Maybe overthinking it as my 2012 Laramie had one for years with no issues.

Did you get the lights on your Randy Ellis bar yet?

What is the Resonator delete?

I went purolator this time around. The K&N was only and inch deep and if I made it 20k on the OEM being 4” deep I figured the K&N would have to be washed and oiled every 5k to keep up and it did not empress me. It take 6 screws to get to the filter btw. I never paid attention before. So that plays into my laziness too.

 

[Trailmaker]

Resonator delete:

So I was hoping to hear the 6.4L purr, so I was gonna get the solo muffler delete, but I got the resonator and the muffler mixed up and took off the Resonator by mistake. I dove around for a few days and thought this is good enough for my daily driving ( I wanted a little louder 5% of the time, that where the bypass comes in to play) so I cut off the bend in the pipe to the Resonator and reinstalled it back on as a exhaust tip. If you leave it off it could melt a wiring harness.

Now I can remote start my truck in the house and hear inside now. Before it sounded a little like a Prius now I hear the horses running.

Tools needed. A socket, ratchet, and a saw. Not gonna lie, the rubber grommets that hold the resonator in place took a little bit of a beating from my mallet and a prybar.
Easy mod and maybe it’s the sound or I gained 1/2 a horse but I feel it when I punch it.

so if you look under you truck, the muffler is first then the S piping over the rear axle connects to the resonator (just next to the spare)

 

[Breaker Alex]

Resonator delete:

So I was hoping to hear the 6.4L purr, so I was gonna get the solo muffler delete, but I got the resonator and the muffler mixed up and took off the Resonator by mistake. I dove around for a few days and thought this is good enough for my daily driving ( I wanted a little louder 5% of the time, that where the bypass comes in to play) so I cut off the bend in the pipe to the Resonator and reinstalled it back on as a exhaust tip. If you leave it off it could melt a wiring harness.

Now I can remote start my truck in the house and hear inside now. Before it sounded a little like a Prius now I hear the horses running.

Tools needed. A socket, ratchet, and a saw. Not gonna lie, the rubber grommets that hold the resonator in place took a little bit of a beating from my mallet and a prybar.
Easy mod and maybe it’s the sound or I gained 1/2 a horse but I feel it when I punch it.

so if you look under you truck, the muffler is first then the S piping over the rear axle connects to the resonator (just next to the spare)

View attachment 209334

View attachment 209335

View attachment 209336

Trailmaker's muffler/resonator mix up got me to take my muffler off.
( As seen in a 2019 thread )

And boy did it sound way louder then he said!
Muffler got reinstalled same evening lol!

Long story short, I also removed my resonator and can finally hear the 6.4 Hemi growl.

Thanks Trailmaker!

 

[Trailmaker]

Trailmaker's muffler/resonator mix up got me to take my muffler off.
( As seen in a 2019 thread )

And boy did it sound way louder then he said!
Muffler got reinstalled same evening lol!

Long story short, I also removed my resonator and can finally hear the 6.4 Hemi growl.

Thanks Trailmaker!

Yeah... my bad. Haha. I wanted to laugh but I know it cost you an hour or two to put it back on. but hey now you know how mine sounds when I activate the exhaust bypass. Bad boy goes Helcat demon in 4 seconds.

dang resonator is the same size as some mufflers.

what did you do for the exhaust tip?

 

[Breaker Alex]

Yeah... my bad. Haha. I wanted to laugh but I know it cost you an hour or two to put it back on. but hey now you know how mine sounds when I activate the exhaust bypass. Bad boy goes Helcat demon in 4 seconds.

dang resonator is the same size as some mufflers.

what did you do for the exhaust tip?

Lol! No worries.

I really wanted to know if muffler delete was an option.

I can't imagine a straight piped daily driver!

I checked a couple of times and the wire harness pass far from the exhaust tip ( more then 12 inches I think, need to take a pic ).

I need to order a turn down tip.
Don't want to temper with original exhaust system.

Why? I don't know.
Guess I don't trust myself for keeping a truck more than a couple of years!

Great thread!

 

[Trailmaker]

https://www.roughcountry.com/mlc6-multiple-light-controller-70955.html

Next mod was the light controller. These devices range from $200-1000. I like almost every brand more then mine, But... I like money more, so I bought this one. My last Ford did not have the uplifter switches like my Raptor or F250 did so I put in the Rough Country unit. And used it again on the PW since it did not let me down. Switchpros is probably my favorite option, but to get all the goodies to work, you have to splice into about 10 OEM wires, so that deterred me.

Mounting the switches was easy as I mounted it under the steering wheel and find it accessible for me (my wife “granny drives” and tends to hit the buttons with her knees) there is not a lot of options with this setup to mount it.
Under the hood I mounted the receiver in the highest place possible. The unit can handle the heat but it is far from waterproof. So water would have to clear my engine before it would get into my unit. I have used up all 6 slots. Each circuit can handle 30amps. The cord plugs into the head unit and plugs into the controller. Only one cable to push through the firewall.
It powers my:
a-pillar lights
-Flood lights on light bar
-Spot lights on light bar
-Flood lights on rear bumper
-Air compressor
-Train Horn ( will move to separate switch when I mount my roof lights)

Like most controllers, if you leave your lights on for too long with the engine off, the relay will disengage at about the 11v mark. This means you can still crank your car and not be dead out in the woods or at the lake. (Or late to work)

I have had this setup since last July and it has not let me down yet.

 

[Ram Wagon]

https://www.roughcountry.com/mlc6-multiple-light-controller-70955.html

Next mod was the light controller. These devices range from $200-1000. I like almost every brand more then mine, But... I like money more, so I bought this one. My last Ford did not have the uplifter switches like my Raptor or F250 did so I put in the Rough Country unit. And used it again on the PW since it did not let me down. Switchpros is probably my favorite option, but to get all the goodies to work, you have to splice into about 10 OEM wires, so that deterred me.

Mounting the switches was easy as I mounted it under the steering wheel and find it accessible for me (my wife “granny drives” and tends to hit the buttons with her knees) there is not a lot of options with this setup to mount it.
Under the hood I mounted the receiver in the highest place possible. The unit can handle the heat but it is far from waterproof. So water would have to clear my engine before it would get into my unit. I have used up all 6 slots. Each circuit can handle 30amps. The cord plugs into the head unit and plugs into the controller. Only one cable to push through the firewall.
It powers my:
a-pillar lights
-Flood lights on light bar
-Spot lights on light bar
-Flood lights on rear bumper
-Air compressor
-Train Horn ( will move to separate switch when I mount my roof lights)

Like most controllers, if you leave your lights on for too long with the engine off, the relay will disengage at about the 11v mark. This means you can still crank your car and not be dead out in the woods or at the lake. (Or late to work)

I have had this setup since last July and it has not let me down yet.

View attachment 209586

View attachment 209587

View attachment 209588

Here is another option for switches (this is for 13-18 rams but.......) they might be making 5th gen stuff now.
https://www.4thgenramelectronics.com/product-page/2013-2018-ram-auxiliary-button-kit

 

[Trailmaker]

Here is another option for switches (this is for 13-18 rams but.......) they might be making 5th gen stuff now.
https://www.4thgenramelectronics.com/product-page/2013-2018-ram-auxiliary-button-kit

It was not available last year when I needed it. I even had a thread going on how to make it work. But no one could come up with the parts to make it look OEM.

 

[Trailmaker]

Next up:

Ditch lights -A pillar

I used brackets from an 2018 and it took some heavy modification to make them fit. (The 2019 brackets were not out yet in the fall of 2019.)
I mounted 4” Vision X flood on them. I have them pointed slightly out now as straight forward had little advantage with a clear lens. (I need red lens for the dirt roads)

Rear bumper lights

I installed Ridged flood lights on the back in factory drilled holes. Not as fancy as cutting the bumper but these lights light up the world behind me if I’m backing up a trailer or up to a load or just need working lights. These puppies were take offs of my last 3 trucks and are 5 years old. ( why I went with Ridge again on the bull bar. Next write up)

 

[Trailmaker]

Randy Ellis Bullbar with Ridged lights:

Pretty easy install minus the need for 1 inch ratchet on a 15/16 socket because the tow hook bolts are really toque on there. The bolts that came with it were meant for a bumper without a winch so I could not use them. The directions have you remove three bolts on each to slide out the tow hooks and then slide the bar in and the tow hooks back in behind it. I recommend only removing the two bolts first for the tow hooks, not all three as you’ll have no support for the winch and it will fall out. Really cool thing I found about the power wagon is there is four slots behind the bumper and the rubber that is allowed for wires a pass-through for this type of set up.