( GARBAGE )TrakMotive CH8256XTT Xtended Travel CV Axles

[DILLIGAF]

thats factory, the HDs still rust like all the other ones. just takes a bit longer

 

[hodge-xj]

how are the cardone hds holding up. I'm on set 4 of cheaper auto parts store versions. Haven't grenaded them but the boots crack within a year and puke grease. Its getting old doing this yearly

 

[DILLIGAF]

The ones I installed back in March with my limiting straps survived tons of off-roading and hunting and are holding up verry well.

 

[hodge-xj]

The ones I installed back in March with my limiting straps survived tons of off-roading and hunting and are holding up verry well.

You think the limit straps made a difference? Oem cvs are 3-400 but these cheap ones don't last either.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Limiting straps are the only way to go if you off-road with these IFS grocery getters. You set them until the binding stops at full extension. I did loose a bit of down travel, but well worth it IMO. And I still make it everywhere I used to. Heck ever since I built a flatbed, I go spots I would of never tried when I had a full box.

 

[hodge-xj]

Limiting straps are the only way to go if you off-road with these IFS grocery getters. You set them until the binding stops at full extension. I did loose a bit of down travel, but well worth it IMO. And I still make it everywhere I used to. Heck ever since I built a flatbed, I go spots I would of never tried when I had a

I'll be honest I have just assumed with factory length cpilovers binding wouldn't be an issue. I never really checked to be honest. My truck sees alot of access roads and job site junk and the mud always seems to eat these cheap rubber/neoprene CV boots with a quickness. You for sure are doing a lot heavier wheeling then I am

 

[olyelr]

I'll be honest I have just assumed with factory length cpilovers binding wouldn't be an issue. I never really checked to be honest. My truck sees alot of access roads and job site junk and the mud always seems to eat these cheap rubber/neoprene CV boots with a quickness. You for sure are doing a lot heavier wheeling then I am

I think he also removed his sway bar. Which would allow for more down travel i would think.

 

[DILLIGAF]

They binded just slightly even with the sway bars after I put on the lift kit on my truck for some reason.

BUt after the sway bars were removed... holy ****... hahahahah

 

[hodge-xj]

I think he also removed his sway bar. Which would allow for more down travel i would think.

They binded just slightly even with the sway bars after I put on the lift kit on my truck for some reason.

BUt after the sway bars were removed... holy ****... hahahahah

Oh really?! That's wild, I know that some crazy spacer combos do that but I guess I'm not surprised by anything with these trucks anymore.

I suppose these cardones will be next. Otherwise I'm shelling out some serious dough for oem.

 

[crazykid1994]

On a stock truck with a leveling kit or upgraded coil overs. I’ve had zero issues with the stock CV binding. I had the truck jacked up off the ground with no swaybar connected wheel turned to the stop and had zero binding in the CV. If I push the Suspension a half an inch past the coil over limit I could bind the CV axle. I even notched the steering stops to give me another 1/4” of turning radius on the lower control arm. Once you lift the truck all the geometry changes. Some kits and some trucks are happier than others. It’s just part of the game. Remember I also run a 1/4” thick top spacer above my coilover so I’m really close to the cv binding spot on my truck.

 

[hodge-xj]

On a stock truck with a leveling kit or upgraded coil overs. I’ve had zero issues with the stock CV binding. I had the truck jacked up off the ground with no swaybar connected wheel turned to the stop and had zero binding in the CV. If I push the Suspension a half an inch past the coil over limit I could bind the CV axle. I even notched the steering stops to give me another 1/4” of turning radius on the lower control arm. Once you lift the truck all the geometry changes. Some kits and some trucks are happier than others. It’s just part of the game. Remember I also run a 1/4” thick top spacer above my coilover so I’m really close to the cv binding spot on my truck.

I personally am running into the issue of splitting boots. Every single option I've run that's non OEM has not lasted more then a year before they begin to tear.

I know the icons are a touch longer at almost 23" extended, but I've not noticed any binding in my CV's. At least nothing that has led me to investigate further. Checked my build thread and the boot issue goes back to like 2021. Idk it just seems like I've not found a middle ground on CV shaft quality. It's either OEM ($$) or low quality.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Thats why I keep all my used CVs . When I rip boots driving thru the bush , I got spares on on hand to replace.

Yesterday I put my truck on the lift for my spark plug change and I had piece of a branch stuck in my inner CV...lol...

So today Ill swap the boot out. and start some carboard templates and figure out CV boot shields, because not driving like a retard thru bush isnt an option...lol...

 

[hodge-xj]

Thats why I keep all my used CVs . When I rip boots driving thru the bush , I got spares on on hand to replace.

Yesterday I put my truck on the lift for my spark plug change and I had piece of a branch stuck in my inner CV...lol...

So today Ill swap the boot out. and start some carboard templates and figure out CV boot shields, because not driving like a retard thru bush isnt an option...lol...

I've never pulled a CV apart. Is it easy? I'd honestly be inclined to just put OEM boots on since they sell the kits.

 

[DILLIGAF]

Yeah super easy. But make sure to buy the real CV boot tools and Otiker clamps. YouTube has the videos.

 

[DILLIGAF]

That's how much I had to take out to stop the binding at full drop

 

[hodge-xj]

You have some serious droop available with that lift!

I'll have to look into taking apart the one spare CV I have