Tranny going, going...:(

[Yeret]

Welp, after a decade of more-or-less trouble-free service, ole Spyro's finally giving me something to sweat over.

Okay, so I was making a few 60-mile round trips earlier today for hay. We're talking driving in, loading up with 800-lbs of hay, heading back home, unloading, rinse, repeat. Made three trips and on my way for a fourth load, the tranny decided it was done for the day.

Basically, third gear's gone, second engages, but it's a slip 'n slide. First and reverse work fine.

Fluid's full and red.

What could I be looking at here? Got some other stuff that needs fixed, and with the tranny acting up, it's just time to straight up park the truck for now and grab something local on the cheap. Boy, that three-month hiatus I took from work is really biting me in the ass now, LOL.

 

[MADDOG]

Ughh...that's not good. Sorry for your troubles and Good Luck!

 

[Mop]

The interior clutches might be burned.
Not sure what that would cost.

 

[Yeret]

Tranny's got 50,000 miles on rebuild, performed by a reputable local shop. Pretty sure I got the receipt somewhere and I know it was a $2,000 job. Ouch.

I just still can't wrap my head around it. There was absolutely no warning or anything that suggested the tranny was gonna crap out. Hell, if I drew up a list of 10 things I felt would break on my truck during my trips, the transmission would have been right there at the bottom. The bundles I was carrying were ~800 lbs a piece, but I made a point to ease into the throttle. Hell, if I was hitting 60 within thirty seconds on the highway, I'd be surprised.

My tune pushed the shift points up a bit, especially 3-4. Perhaps a few years of shifting with increased engine RPMs played a role? If so, are there "heavy duty" clutches for the 46re that could reliably handle this?

 

[Arth]

Tranny's got 50,000 miles on rebuild, performed by a reputable local shop. Pretty sure I got the receipt somewhere and I know it was a $2,000 job. Ouch.

I just still can't wrap my head around it. There was absolutely no warning or anything that suggested the tranny was gonna crap out. Hell, if I drew up a list of 10 things I felt would break on my truck during my trips, the transmission would have been right there at the bottom. The bundles I was carrying were ~800 lbs a piece, but I made a point to ease into the throttle. Hell, if I was hitting 60 within thirty seconds on the highway, I'd be surprised.

My tune pushed the shift points up a bit, especially 3-4. Perhaps a few years of shifting with increased engine RPMs played a role? If so, are there "heavy duty" clutches for the 46re that could reliably handle this?

Personally I hate that transmission. Mine went on my 2001 like clock work right at 100k miles and even after the rebuild it was never right. I don't know if there is a heavier duty clutches or not but best of luck to you with that transmission.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Tranny's got 50,000 miles on rebuild, performed by a reputable local shop. Pretty sure I got the receipt somewhere and I know it was a $2,000 job. Ouch.

I just still can't wrap my head around it. There was absolutely no warning or anything that suggested the tranny was gonna crap out. Hell, if I drew up a list of 10 things I felt would break on my truck during my trips, the transmission would have been right there at the bottom. The bundles I was carrying were ~800 lbs a piece, but I made a point to ease into the throttle. Hell, if I was hitting 60 within thirty seconds on the highway, I'd be surprised.

My tune pushed the shift points up a bit, especially 3-4. Perhaps a few years of shifting with increased engine RPMs played a role? If so, are there "heavy duty" clutches for the 46re that could reliably handle this?

The 46RE is one of the best transmissions in my professional opinion. They can be built to withstand a ton of abuse when the correct parts are used.

If 2nd gear is slipping it indicates a problem with the front band and it's is probably super loose around the front clutch retainer. If 3rd gear is unavailable it indicates a problem with the clutches in the front clutch retainer.

If the front band was not adjusted properly when the trans was overhauled it will cause premature wear. You could try to adjust the front band to see if 2nd gear would stop slipping but it will not help with 3rd gear.

If it were me I'd pull the trans and disassemble it for inspection. Then I'd start making a list of upgraded parts to go back in it. If you have any questions about upgrades for the 46RE I can provide you with a list of what I use to build this trans for my customers.

 

[reek]

I'm a big fan of the bullet proof 727 and from what I hear, the 46 rh/re are closely related to it. so I wouldn't doubt one bit they can be built to handle power.

I just finished rebuilding a 46rh and am working on a 46re. they're about as easy to work on as the 727.

incidentally what is the adjustment specs for the front and rear bands? I've heard tighten to 70 inch lbs then back off 4 full turns in the rear and 2 1/2 for the front band. is that correct?

 

[Fast69Mopar]

I'm a big fan of the bullet proof 727 and from what I hear, the 46 rh/re are closely related to it. so I wouldn't doubt one bit they can be built to handle power.

I just finished rebuilding a 46rh and am working on a 46re. they're about as easy to work on as the 727.

incidentally what is the adjustment specs for the front and rear bands? I've heard tighten to 70 inch lbs then back off 4 full turns in the rear and 2 1/2 for the front band. is that correct?

Let me tell you how I do my band adjustment for the 727/904, A-500/A-518 and 42RE-48RE. If there is a way I can make the adjustment while the pan is off that is how I do it. I like to have a visual of the band apply lever and the support. I like to set the band apply lever 1/4" away from the piston.

Now, on the other hand, here is the procedure direct from the Factory Service Manual from 1972.

A-904 Front/Kickdown Band Adjustment

Torque the adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds.

Back off the adjusting screw 2 full turns and tighten the lock nut. If this adjustment is being made on a transmission behind the 170 cu. in. engine back off the adjusting screw 2-5/8 turns.

A-727

Torque the adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds.

Back off the adjusting screw 2 full turns. If the transmission is being used behind the 426 cu. in. engine then back off the adjusting screw 1-1/2 turns.

A-904 Rear/Reverse Band Adjustment

Torque the adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds.

Back off the adjusting screw 3-1/4 turns. If the transmission is being used behind a 318 cu. in. engine then back off the adjusting screw 4 full turns.

A-727

Torque the adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds.

Back off the adjusting screw 2 full turns.

* Front Band – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/2 turns (all transmissions)
* Rear Band
32/42RH – Tighten to 72 in-LB, back off 4 turns
36/37/46/47RH – Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns

1995-1996

* Front Band
42RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/4 turns
46RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
47RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns

* Rear Band
42RE/RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
46RE/RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
47RE/RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1997-1998

* Front Band
42RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3-5/8 turns
46RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
47RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns

* Rear Band
42RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
46RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
47RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1999

* Front Band
42RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns. (TSB 21-16-98)
47RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1 7/8 turns

* Rear Band
47RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns
The 47RH rear band requires a 1/4″ hex driver, the front band requires a
T-30 Torx driver, the filter is held in place by two screws which require a T-20 Torx drive

2000-2002

* Front Band
42RE – Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns
44RE – Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
46RE – Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 2 7/8 turns
47RE – Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns

* Rear Band
42RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
44RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
46RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
47RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2003

* Front Band
48RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1-3/4 turns

* Rear Band
48RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2005

* Front Band
48RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds,
back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns for diesel vehicles,
or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.

* Rear Band
48RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

94+ Automatic Transmission Bolt and Nut Torque Specs

* Front band adjustment locknut – 30 ft-lb
* Rear band adjustment locknut – 25 ft-lb
* Transmission pan bolts – 13 ft-lb

 

[reek]

Let me tell you how I do my band adjustment for the 727/904, A-500/A-518 and 42RE-48RE. If there is a way I can make the adjustment while the pan is off that is how I do it. I like to have a visual of the band apply lever and the support. I like to set the band apply lever 1/4" away from the piston.

Now, on the other hand, here is the procedure direct from the Factory Service Manual from 1972.

A-904 Front/Kickdown Band Adjustment

Torque the adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds.

Back off the adjusting screw 2 full turns and tighten the lock nut. If this adjustment is being made on a transmission behind the 170 cu. in. engine back off the adjusting screw 2-5/8 turns.

A-727

Torque the adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds.

Back off the adjusting screw 2 full turns. If the transmission is being used behind the 426 cu. in. engine then back off the adjusting screw 1-1/2 turns.

A-904 Rear/Reverse Band Adjustment

Torque the adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds.

Back off the adjusting screw 3-1/4 turns. If the transmission is being used behind a 318 cu. in. engine then back off the adjusting screw 4 full turns.

A-727

Torque the adjusting screw to 72 inch-pounds.

Back off the adjusting screw 2 full turns.

* Front Band – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/2 turns (all transmissions)
* Rear Band
32/42RH – Tighten to 72 in-LB, back off 4 turns
36/37/46/47RH – Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns

1995-1996

* Front Band
42RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/4 turns
46RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
47RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns

* Rear Band
42RE/RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
46RE/RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
47RE/RH – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1997-1998

* Front Band
42RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3-5/8 turns
46RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
47RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns

* Rear Band
42RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
46RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
47RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1999

* Front Band
42RE – tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns. (TSB 21-16-98)
47RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1 7/8 turns

* Rear Band
47RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns
The 47RH rear band requires a 1/4″ hex driver, the front band requires a
T-30 Torx driver, the filter is held in place by two screws which require a T-20 Torx drive

2000-2002

* Front Band
42RE – Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns
44RE – Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
46RE – Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 2 7/8 turns
47RE – Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns

* Rear Band
42RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
44RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
46RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
47RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2003

* Front Band
48RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1-3/4 turns

* Rear Band
48RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2005

* Front Band
48RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds,
back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns for diesel vehicles,
or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.

* Rear Band
48RE – tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

94+ Automatic Transmission Bolt and Nut Torque Specs

* Front band adjustment locknut – 30 ft-lb
* Rear band adjustment locknut – 25 ft-lb
* Transmission pan bolts – 13 ft-lb

that there is a "sheet" ton of useful info. thanks.

 

[Yeret]

Okay, so, automatic transmissions to me are a bit of witchcraft to me. But, in light of my current situation, I'm attempting to learn a thing or two about them and how it relates to why mine went kaput, not to mention the possibility of simply rebuilding it myself with a few upgrades AND saving a few bucks.

From what I've gathered regarding the 46re, there are a number of weak spots that should be addressed, which fortunately, the aftermarket seems to have covered. It seems that this rebuild kiit...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-46RE...513795?hash=item2ef2c55343:g:EKkAAOSw-CpYBVBm

...covers all of the "small part" weaknesses. It ain't cheap, but the description sure sells it. Perhaps you transmission guys could give me a yay or nay with this kit?

Second, the factory torque converter seems to have a lot of slip. As far as I can tell, the OEM torque converter has a stall speed somewhere between 2,300 and 2,600 RPM. While this offer less resistance to the engine and therefore allows it to more easily rev into it's powerband, it also results in a lot of extra generated heat, which is exacerbated by the simple fact that, well, a 5,000-lb truck needs plenty of power to get up to speed in a reasonable time, LOL. I figure that the tranny fluid picks up all this extra heat and results in a higher operating temperature, which, especially under heavy load conditions, could case the clutch plates to wear faster, especially if they're "cheap."

I imagine an auxiliary oil cooler would help here, but I haven't much looked into those yet...

I've cased a few "heavy duty" torque converters that have a much lower stall speed and pump a lot more fluid per minute, but they sure aren't cheap. Summit offers a few options from Hughes Performance, which start around $500, this one being most notable to me...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-15lxtm?rrec=true

I've also seen some sort of really fancy "triple plate" billet converters that look real nice, but I really don't see myself being able to front $1,200 for one of those.

According to the receipt that came from the last rebuild of my transmission, the shop used an "HD torque converter" and charged $200 for it. I'm certainly wondering if it was really as "HD" as I had thought. For what it's worth, I have no idea what brand it is, but I know, courtesy of a previous engine pull, that it's painted a sort of sky or robin's egg blue.

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Okay, so, automatic transmissions to me are a bit of witchcraft to me. But, in light of my current situation, I'm attempting to learn a thing or two about them and how it relates to why mine went kaput, not to mention the possibility of simply rebuilding it myself with a few upgrades AND saving a few bucks.

From what I've gathered regarding the 46re, there are a number of weak spots that should be addressed, which fortunately, the aftermarket seems to have covered. It seems that this rebuild kiit...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-46RE...513795?hash=item2ef2c55343:g:EKkAAOSw-CpYBVBm

...covers all of the "small part" weaknesses. It ain't cheap, but the description sure sells it. Perhaps you transmission guys could give me a yay or nay with this kit?

Second, the factory torque converter seems to have a lot of slip. As far as I can tell, the OEM torque converter has a stall speed somewhere between 2,300 and 2,600 RPM. While this offer less resistance to the engine and therefore allows it to more easily rev into it's powerband, it also results in a lot of extra generated heat, which is exacerbated by the simple fact that, well, a 5,000-lb truck needs plenty of power to get up to speed in a reasonable time, LOL. I figure that the tranny fluid picks up all this extra heat and results in a higher operating temperature, which, especially under heavy load conditions, could case the clutch plates to wear faster, especially if they're "cheap."

I imagine an auxiliary oil cooler would help here, but I haven't much looked into those yet...

I've cased a few "heavy duty" torque converters that have a much lower stall speed and pump a lot more fluid per minute, but they sure aren't cheap. Summit offers a few options from Hughes Performance, which start around $500, this one being most notable to me...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-15lxtm?rrec=true

I've also seen some sort of really fancy "triple plate" billet converters that look real nice, but I really don't see myself being able to front $1,200 for one of those.

According to the receipt that came from the last rebuild of my transmission, the shop used an "HD torque converter" and charged $200 for it. I'm certainly wondering if it was really as "HD" as I had thought. For what it's worth, I have no idea what brand it is, but I know, courtesy of a previous engine pull, that it's painted a sort of sky or robin's egg blue.

Okay, so, automatic transmissions to me are a bit of witchcraft to me. But, in light of my current situation, I'm attempting to learn a thing or two about them and how it relates to why mine went kaput, not to mention the possibility of simply rebuilding it myself with a few upgrades AND saving a few bucks.

From what I've gathered regarding the 46re, there are a number of weak spots that should be addressed, which fortunately, the aftermarket seems to have covered. It seems that this rebuild kiit...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-46RE...513795?hash=item2ef2c55343:g:EKkAAOSw-CpYBVBm

...covers all of the "small part" weaknesses. It ain't cheap, but the description sure sells it. Perhaps you transmission guys could give me a yay or nay with this kit?

Second, the factory torque converter seems to have a lot of slip. As far as I can tell, the OEM torque converter has a stall speed somewhere between 2,300 and 2,600 RPM. While this offer less resistance to the engine and therefore allows it to more easily rev into it's powerband, it also results in a lot of extra generated heat, which is exacerbated by the simple fact that, well, a 5,000-lb truck needs plenty of power to get up to speed in a reasonable time, LOL. I figure that the tranny fluid picks up all this extra heat and results in a higher operating temperature, which, especially under heavy load conditions, could case the clutch plates to wear faster, especially if they're "cheap."

I imagine an auxiliary oil cooler would help here, but I haven't much looked into those yet...

I've cased a few "heavy duty" torque converters that have a much lower stall speed and pump a lot more fluid per minute, but they sure aren't cheap. Summit offers a few options from Hughes Performance, which start around $500, this one being most notable to me...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-15lxtm?rrec=true

I've also seen some sort of really fancy "triple plate" billet converters that look real nice, but I really don't see myself being able to front $1,200 for one of those.

According to the receipt that came from the last rebuild of my transmission, the shop used an "HD torque converter" and charged $200 for it. I'm certainly wondering if it was really as "HD" as I had thought. For what it's worth, I have no idea what brand it is, but I know, courtesy of a previous engine pull, that it's painted a sort of sky or robin's egg blue.

In my opinion there are three main weak points with the 46RE.

1) The stock torque converter. They are fine for everyday driving and light towing but we as performance enthusiast like to push these 5,000+ pound trucks to the limits. When we mash it to the floor it builds heat. Heat kills. The stock units just cannot take it. Period. A true performance torque converter will allow the desired flash stall to get the engine RPM to a certain point and then begin to fully engage. The cheap performance converters will flash high and then stay partially engaged to keep the RPM high. This partial engagement allows the fluid to be sheered inside the converter and superheat the fluid. Thats bad for business. There is nothing wrong with a single disc converter clutch as long as it is a quality unit. When the converter clutch is engaged it helps lower the fluid temps.

2) The small, relatively inefficient trans cooler. When we build up heat in the fluid we have to have a way to cool that fluid down. A large surface area cooler will do the trick. I run a simple Derale cooler with a fan attached to it. I have the fan wired up through a thermostatically controlled temp switch so when the fluid reaches 170° the fan comes on. I have it set for the fan to stay on until the fluid is cooled to 150°. I also have a separate switch in my rocker switch panel to turn the fan on manually if necessary.

3) The overdrive unit. The O/D unit is very simple. It has a direct clutch with a very large spring to keep it applied at all times. If the direct clutch slips the trans will feel like it is slipping in every gear because the direct clutch is applied at all times. The overdrive clutches can take a beating. There aren't very many of them so we want 4th gear to engage very quickly, not slip, and stay that way.

If we make a few small, well placed upgrades to the 46RE it can be a reliable unit that can take some abuse. There are a few other areas I like to address when performing an overhaul. I use a different, performance spring in the 3-4 accumulator to firm up the 3-4 upshift. I also install an upgraded low/reverse servo and intermediate servo cover along with the Mopar 5:1 band apply lever and HD strut. I install the Sonnax Billet 4-ring accumulator piston. I also use a new manual valve in the valve body that allows converter fluid charge in Park.

 

[Yeret]

Thanks for the info, very helpful!

Another thing. Once this thing's rebuilt, it's gonna obviously need a total fill (looks like I'll be cleaning the local Walmart's shelf of Valvoline ATF-4 again, LOL). Now, I'm not really an additive guy, but I suppose it doesn't hurt to ask if there are any additives that should be added? Also, what's a good break-in procedure? I know with a fresh engine, you want a general mix of driving styles and multiple oil changes within a short window. Are transmissions the same way? I would have to hope not since changing out 10 quarts of ATF-4 a few times over the course of the month would not be cheap...

 

[reek]

Okay, so, automatic transmissions to me are a bit of witchcraft to me. But, in light of my current situation, I'm attempting to learn a thing or two about them and how it relates to why mine went kaput, not to mention the possibility of simply rebuilding it myself with a few upgrades AND saving a few bucks.

From what I've gathered regarding the 46re, there are a number of weak spots that should be addressed, which fortunately, the aftermarket seems to have covered. It seems that this rebuild kiit...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-46RE...513795?hash=item2ef2c55343:g:EKkAAOSw-CpYBVBm

...covers all of the "small part" weaknesses. It ain't cheap, but the description sure sells it. Perhaps you transmission guys could give me a yay or nay with this kit?

I just used the same exact kit for my 46RH rebuild only for the pre 97 model. VERY NICE KIT. the ONLY thing missing that I thought that was weird was they only include 2 bushings, the main front and main rear/tail. That's it. I had to order a complete bushing set to replace all the rest. I say weird because these guys a similar kit for a 42RH that is complete with ALL bushings. Anyway, their non ebay website is:

https://transpartswarehouse.com/

 

[reek]

oh, BTW, I wasn't sure if you addressed this but you'll need the special spring compressor 'tool'.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Overdrive-...102522?hash=item4d95f1537a:g:pvIAAOSwz8NbdSfu

 

[Yeret]

So, a little update...

I've been driving the Taurus up to this point. My lane's been iced up for a few weeks now, making it passable with a 4x4, but front-wheel drive's got no chance. Had to have the car pushed with the plow truck to get out a couple weeks ago and left some "nice" paint scuffs and a busted tail-light. SOB, but it was the only way to get out.

Ever since, I've left the car parked at the end and have been using the truck as a shuttle, keeping the tranny locked in first gear.

The other day, I decided, just for the hell of it, to shift into "2." Whaddya know, it actually shifted into second no problemo with absolutely no slipping. Interesting.

Today, I decided to take the truck up and down the gravel roads just to see what would happen. Sure as hell, the transmission shifted through it gears just as it had before. I repeated the drive a few times to get it good and warmed up, but it never missed a beat.

Basically, as of now, there is nothing that indicates that there is anything wrong with the transmission. I'm going to take the truck on a short, on-road trip tomorrow, which will be enough to really get up to speed without being too far from home if SHTF.

Anyone got any input on this? It would be highly illogical to think that the tranny "fixed" itself, of course, but facts are facts; right now, it shifts perfectly, and I did absolutely nothing to it since it acted up.

 

[Dave2018]

Might try a bottle of lucas trans fix. It cleaned up shifting and power transfer for the last two years for me. I'm light duty though compared to you.

 

[reek]

not sure if you could explain any of that with a gummed up valve body. when I took apart my 46RE, the fluid looked fine but the valve body was full of Jelly. completely clogged. and the truck only went into first and reverse, did not shift into any other gear.

 

[Travelin Ram]

Sounds like crud in the valve body to me. I’d do a fluid and filter change and cross my fingers. Not a flush.

 

[Yeret]

Thanks for the input. I had a flush/fill a couple years ago and was coming up to do it again last year, but then a cooler hose popped loose, causing me to dump six quarts of ATF4 on the highway. Tranny never slipped out of gear, but fortunately I'm one of those "glance at the rearview every minute or two" types and noticed one hell of a smoke plume behind me, prompting me to immediately pull over. Nothing like the scent of tranny fluid meets hot headers, LOL.

I took the truck for a drive to town and back and the tranny rowed through all it's gears no problemo. Fascinating.

Reckon for now, I'll drive off an on for now (weather's been fine enough to drive the car and the ole Ram does have other stuff that needs attention). If all seems well, I'm gonna change fluid/filter, maybe add a bottle of Lubegard and add a cooler. See what happens, eh?

My old man insists on adjusting the bands, and right now, I'm partly inclined to agree. My question is if the front band were out of place, wouldn't second gear slip or fail to engage period? I wouldn't think an out-of-spec band would start slipping and then suddenly grip again later, but then, I'm not sure. I've still got a lot to learn about auto transmissions.

 

[Yeret]

With nothing else to go by, I have to conclude that there is nothing wrong with this transmission.

I've been driving the truck off-and-on for the last couple months with the Taurus, and so far, the only complaint is how crappy the open rear differential is in the mud. Seriously, if I had a limited-slip carrier in the ass, I'd have less than half the problems I currently do in the mud. Good thing the ole Posi-Lok is still functioning fine.

Warm weather is coming. I'm going to do a partial fluid change with a new filter as a precautionary measure. I also might throw in a bottle of Lubegard's "red" stuff, although I'm not sure if it'd really do much good with a partial fluid change versus a full change.