transfercase diagram

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Wild one

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The t case temp is an algorithm there are no temp sensors or anything like that within the wiring system of the t case. I'm sure it's based on engine rpm and torque and then calculated as a load. Surpass x amount and it gets mad. Mine will do the over heat in 2 wheel drive on ice, if I floor it I get a t case over temp warning. Not sure if anyone else has gitten that before.

I've got that message every once in awhile,and my 4X4 has no front diff / driveshaft or axles anymore.Usually only occurs if the back tires are going up in smoke,which might or might not happen on occasion,lol
 

Brandon-w

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I've got that message every once in awhile,and my 4X4 has no front diff / driveshaft or axles anymore.Usually only occurs if the back tires are going up in smoke,which might or might not happen on occasion,lol
Yeah that's when it does it sometimes. Too bad I can't program your cluster, it'd pop up as "you're being hard on tires again Rick" [emoji23]
 

Wild one

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Yeah that's when it does it sometimes. Too bad I can't program your cluster, it'd pop up as "you're being hard on tires again Rick" [emoji23]

My wife is harder on tires then me,lol. At 19,000 clics I had to put new tires on her Challenger,as she'd spun the original Goodyears down to nothing,and they'd actually started chunking,lol.When she bought it,she told me she wanted something that'd spin the back tires,apparently it'll spin them better then I thought,lol. The upside is she does race it and usually does good with it bracket racing,lol.
 

Brandon-w

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Hahaha that's awesome!!! Time to get her some toyo smokesations. That way she can leave any color burnout she wants.
 

Wild one

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Hahaha that's awesome!!! Time to get her some toyo smokesations. That way she can leave any color burnout she wants.

She doesn't need any more excuses to spin tires,lol. I put a set of 275 Cooper Zeon RS3's on it,and so far i'm impressed with them,they actually seem like a decent tire as far as wear and hook factor go.She's ran a best of 13.6 with it at Castrol bone stock,which is pretty decent for our altitude/DA.This year it's got more tire under it and it's now running the 6.4 manifolds and mid pipes,so we'll have to see how she does now.By the butt dyno and racing my truck,the manifolds and mid pipes have added a fair bit,have to see if it shows up on the track though,lol. She's got it figured out to the day when the cars off warrenty,i'll probably have to have an unlocked PCM sitting here by then,lol. I keep using the excuse of "warrenty" but she's not falling for that much longer,lol
 

Brandon-w

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She doesn't need any more excuses to spin tires,lol. I put a set of 275 Cooper Zeon RS3's on it,and so far i'm impressed with them,they actually seem like a decent tire as far as wear and hook factor go.She's ran a best of 13.6 with it at Castrol bone stock,which is pretty decent for our altitude/DA.This year it's got more tire under it and it's now running the 6.4 manifolds and mid pipes,so we'll have to see how she does now.By the butt dyno and racing my truck,the manifolds and mid pipes have added a fair bit,have to see if it shows up on the track though,lol. She's got it figured out to the day when the cars off warrenty,i'll probably have to have an unlocked PCM sitting here by then,lol. I keep using the excuse of "warrenty" but she's not falling for that much longer,lol
That's awesome! I couldn't wait till I was off warranty I think day 3 of owning it I hacked the muffler off and did a cai. My x bought the exact same truck and complained when I started modding it saying my fuel will go to crap. All said and done mine went better and got 3mpg more than hers [emoji16]
 

LouM

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Yes, I've had what I would consider very low traction situations. I posted 2 other videos here of some of those situations. In one video that was on more level ground, but with numerous big rocks (lots of underbody scrapping) and rock shelves. I got no warning messages.
The other video is a pretty steep hill with smaller, but still large, rocks and looser gravel. I constantly got the overheat message on this hill on the two times I went up it.

The steering wheel does seem tighter in 4lo (no 4lock in 5th gen). Do the 4th gens have "drive by wire steering"? 5th gen does not have any mechanical link to the steering rack and steering wheel and that makes it hard to tell by steering wheel feel.

I will say that in 4HI that if I let the truck move under its own power in a straight line (idle speed) and then turn the wheel full lock that the truck will stop on its own. This would be because of the extra friction from the front diff (100% clutch engagement). I think this is the strongest evidence that the 5th gen trucks do have 100% clutch engagement. Do the 4th gen trucks behave like this as well??? I can't duplicate this with 4Lo because all the extra TQ does not let the truck come to a stop.

I've only ever had the felt "grab and release" when I get the over heat message that then causes the truck to go in and out of 4wd constantly. If I don't get the message then it seems to be 100% 4wd all the time. Again, it could be doing it so fast with the new TC that I can't feel it.

If it's just so fast that I can't tell then that would still create a lot of unnecessary heat. Which I hope is the case because then the switch from Brandon should help with this. But only if the algorithm the truck uses to determine the overheating scenario takes into account the amount of time the clutches engage in a given period of time. If the truck doesn't take that into account then it doesn't matter and the truck will still think the TC is overheating and will throw it into 2wd mode.


@Brandon-w , your switch definitely allows 100% clutch engagement as shown in your vids, but do you know how the switch has effected the overheat warning? I don't think many people were getting the actual overheat warning to begin with and maybe they would still get that warning at the same rate as before the switch if the 4wd was worked hard enough before and after the switch. Meaning the requirements for the overheat algorithm are still met at the same rate no matter if they have the switch or not. Which would them put them into 2wd mode.


Ok we have different definitions of low traction.
Mine is on wet ice or warm packed snow that is so slick that I am just easing into the throttle because other wise I'm spinning and likely slidding backwards, not the desired results.

That is when I could feel the clutch engaging a little bit and start to turn the front tires but the rear axle is not getting enough traction to assist the electric clutch and the front axle would start to pull then release then start again repeatedly which did not result in forward uphill motion.
These cases will mechanically increase the clutch loading past what the electrical clutch can when the rear axle is getting enough traction to load the internal cam in the transfer case.
I have had the rear wheels just barely slipping in packed gravel pulling a heavy load uphill and the front axle was pulling quite well at that point it squaked the front tires when they got on the pavement.
I actually spun out this fall with a heavy trailer load in my driveway with all four tires leaving a bit of rubber in the trenches she dug trying to pull the grade. Interesting backing that load back to were it would stay and getting room to get the tractor by and pull it up the rest of the way.
 

AnthonyD1978

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Ok we have different definitions of low traction.
Mine is on wet ice or warm packed snow that is so slick that I am just easing into the throttle because other wise I'm spinning and likely slidding backwards, not the desired results.

That is when I could feel the clutch engaging a little bit and start to turn the front tires but the rear axle is not getting enough traction to assist the electric clutch and the front axle would start to pull then release then start again repeatedly which did not result in forward uphill motion.
These cases will mechanically increase the clutch loading past what the electrical clutch can when the rear axle is getting enough traction to load the internal cam in the transfer case.
I have had the rear wheels just barely slipping in packed gravel pulling a heavy load uphill and the front axle was pulling quite well at that point it squaked the front tires when they got on the pavement.
I actually spun out this fall with a heavy trailer load in my driveway with all four tires leaving a bit of rubber in the trenches she dug trying to pull the grade. Interesting backing that load back to were it would stay and getting room to get the tractor by and pull it up the rest of the way.

Yeah, I think the constant engage/disengage is the common scenario in this thread. I only ever experience it though with the overheating message. We get snow and ice here too, but I'm not towing in it like you.

FA8FA788-EE12-4820-908C-3F107E366009.jpeg
 

Hemi395

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My experience with the 44-44 clutch is that once it's engaged and has static friction, it's locked until it's released. When I first installed the switch @Brandon-w makes I was shocked at how hard that clutch actually holds compared to how weak it was with the factory programming. In 4Low I could spin the rear tires without the front wheels engaging if I did it before the module engaged the clutch. With the switch on and the clutches fully engaged and the ball/ramp engaged, my truck with spin all 4 tires with ease in 4Low. Pretty impressive for a clutch based tcase.

As I've said before I don't feel the 44-44 itself is the problem, it's the FCA programming that kills these tcases with all the engagement/disengament. The static friction of the clutches in these tcases is pretty impressive.
 

AnthonyD1978

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My experience with the 44-44 clutch is that once it's engaged and has static friction, it's locked until it's released. When I first installed the switch @Brandon-w makes I was shocked at how hard that clutch actually holds compared to how weak it was with the factory programming. In 4Low I could spin the rear tires without the front wheels engaging if I did it before the module engaged the clutch. With the switch on and the clutches fully engaged and the ball/ramp engaged, my truck with spin all 4 tires with ease in 4Low. Pretty impressive for a clutch based tcase.

As I've said before I don't feel the 44-44 itself is the problem, it's the FCA programming that kills these tcases with all the engagement/disengament. The static friction of the clutches in these tcases is pretty impressive.


I hope that's the case with the 48-11 as well.
 

LouM

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My experience with the 44-44 clutch is that once it's engaged and has static friction, it's locked until it's released. When I first installed the switch @Brandon-w makes I was shocked at how hard that clutch actually holds compared to how weak it was with the factory programming. In 4Low I could spin the rear tires without the front wheels engaging if I did it before the module engaged the clutch. With the switch on and the clutches fully engaged and the ball/ramp engaged, my truck with spin all 4 tires with ease in 4Low. Pretty impressive for a clutch based tcase.

As I've said before I don't feel the 44-44 itself is the problem, it's the FCA programming that kills these tcases with all the engagement/disengament. The static friction of the clutches in these tcases is pretty impressive.


I'm not impressed with the 44-44 and FCA programing was/is almost criminal as far as I am concerned.
When the programing takes it clear out of 4wd when you put it in park, I have had mine take off backwards twice because of that.
Now with Brandons switch install when I stop in a slippery spot I have the switch turned on and I leave the truck in drive with the parking brake on,what a work around.
With Brandon's switch the electric part of the clutch has enough torque that you can gently ease the truck to get started on very low traction surfaces. Be it wet grass,ice or packed snow.
The factory setup is just about completely worthless especially if the rear wheels have no or very little traction, without traction on the rear there is nothing to drive the ball and ramp which will provide power above what the electric clutch does.
I have a feeling that my clutches are very worn but how do you proof that to FCA.
One thing is I have never gotten an over heat light. Where this transfer case has failed me completely was in my driveway in the winter,
when this fancy RAM 1500 couldn't make it upthe drive after my wife's all wheel drive Equinox had just driven right up.
In the summer on halfway decent traction surfaces where the ball can work into the ramp and load the clutch it does work good.
 

Hemi395

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Yeah I agree the FCA programming is asinine. I purposely tried the 4Lock on beach sand and it was essentially useless. The rear wheels dug in QUICK before the front wheels even moved. I mean talk about a dangerous setup if you get stuck.

Again, flicked Brandon's switch and it locked right up and pulled the truck right out. Totally FCAs Nerf programming.
 

chrisbh17

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I honestly feel like most of the issues would be solved if traction control was completely disabled in any 4WD mode, by default and not turned back on until you go back to 2WD.
 

Shirokez

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Can we refresh this thread? I understand Brandon has come up with working solution with harness, which is great!
I would like to go a bit further and implement time delay (goes off after 10-15 min). And trying figure out the way how to use one of the oem switches under HVAC control. I already have few I think good ideas.

It looks like all of the diagram and schematics have been removed here, purposely, i am assuming.
 

Brandon-w

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Can we refresh this thread? I understand Brandon has come up with working solution with harness, which is great!
I would like to go a bit further and implement time delay (goes off after 10-15 min). And trying figure out the way how to use one of the oem switches under HVAC control. I already have few I think good ideas.

It looks like all of the diagram and schematics have been removed here, purposely, i am assuming.
Yes these have been removed so the system cannot be duplicated. I worked hard to get this product to where it is and don't wish to give it away, hence the patent process.

All of the ideas have been pushed forward in other threads and everyone said a timed switch would be more of a pain than anything this is why it hasn't been done.

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Shirokez

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Yes these have been removed so the system cannot be duplicated. I worked hard to get this product to where it is and don't wish to give it away, hence the patent process.

All of the ideas have been pushed forward in other threads and everyone said a timed switch would be more of a pain than anything this is why it hasn't been done.

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I totally understand your point, You got It all figured out. But That should not stop other DIY people to create their own versions, isn’t.
Well I did, anyway.
I mean there is a lot of DYI project out there that people don’t have a problem to share.
My post was more like checking if anyone what to make their own Harness. That’s all...
 

Brandon-w

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I totally understand your point, You got It all figured out. But That should not stop other DIY people to create their own versions, isn’t.
Well I did, anyway.
I mean there is a lot of DYI project out there that people don’t have a problem to share.
My post was more like checking if anyone what to make their own Harness. That’s all...
Mean if you Wana make your own diy please feel free to do so. But please don't make it public knowledge everywhere is what I'm kinda getting at. That part scares me as I'm already a small niche market. If everyone starts sharing wiring details and everything I can basically kiss my product goodbye if that makes sense.

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Shirokez

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Mean if you Wana make your own diy please feel free to do so. But please don't make it public knowledge everywhere is what I'm kinda getting at. That part scares me as I'm already a small niche market. If everyone starts sharing wiring details and everything I can basically kiss my product goodbye if that makes sense.

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Not quite getting that, what’s making this project special? That’s what any car forum for, share info and discussions. Helping each other.
I am sure some people rather diy if they can, instead of paying dealer, shop or You for that matter.
 

John Jensen

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Not quite getting that, what’s making this project special? That’s what any car forum for, share info and discussions. Helping each other.
I am sure some people rather diy if they can, instead of paying dealer, shop or You for that matter.
You are correct, you just don't get it!
Brandon developed a product and sells it to whoever needs it. If you want to make one do it, but don't badmouth Brandon for not helping you copy his product. No businessman would help someone steal their product. Your attitude will get you nothing.
 
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