Transmission pan and fluid change questions

[HangmanNY]

After doing the differential fluids and transfer case I’m getting ready to do the transmission service tomorrow. The guy said I would have to get the rear of the vehicle 9 inches higher than the front. Well I got it just about 9 inches high now. I’m going to be replacing the original transmission pan with a PPE aluminum pan.

I won’t have any problems removing the old pan. However I did notice that one of the screws is directly above the exhaust pipe (along with the drain plug). I’m assuming I need to use a small bit in a quarter inch ratchet to get that one out?

I’ve seen some videos online where guys loosen those three bolts on the transmission mount. Then they put a piece of wood on top of a jack to try to raise it up about 3/4 of an inch to an inch. This way they could get the new PPE pan in place. Is that the normal procedure with this pan?

After repeatedly trying to level the transmission I think I have it right. It wound up with the rear wheels almost exactly 9 inches up off the ground. I wound up using a torpedo level because the other small level I couldn’t see the level/bubble from below. I’m hoping I found the correct place to get an accurate reading to see if the transmission is level.

Please look at the photos and let me know your thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[EdGs]

Before you drain the fluid, make sure to crack the fill plug loose first. Mine was put on by Hercules, I had to use a cheater to break it loose.

I have read a couple posts where people used the spacers from the old pan with the new PPE pan as it helps keep the gasket in place.

I used an OE pan when I did my fluid change, though.

I don't believe you will have any issues with clearance getting the PPE pan in.

Wishing you a smooth procedure.

 

[HangmanNY]

Before you drain the fluid, make sure to crack the fill plug loose first. Mine was put on by Hercules, I had to use a cheater to break it loose.

I have read a couple posts where people used the spacers from the old pan with the new PPE pan as it helps keep the gasket in place.

I used an OE pan when I did my fluid change, though.

I don't believe you will have any issues with clearance getting the PPE pan in.

Wishing you a smooth procedure.

I already got that fill plug loosened with an 8mm hex wrench. then hand tightened it back. I also pre loosened that one pan bolt (obstructed by exhaust pipe) with a #40 torx bit on a 1/4" wrench ( i have gear wrench swivel head ratcheting wrenches but my smallest size is 5/16", that's why i used a regular open/box end wrench and had to hold the bit in place by hand). The rest of the pan bolts will come out easy tomorrow morning. I also sprayed the three transmission mount bolts with PB blaster then hit them with am impact gun and a 16MM socket. They are loosened up near the ends of the bolt threads. Once again my question is how much does the transmission have to be jacked up to allow the clearance with the new PPE pan? This is my first time doing this and I want to get it right.

thanks

 

[Wild one]

I already got that fill plug loosened with an 8mm hex wrench. then hand tightened it back. I also pre loosened that one pan bolt (obstructed by exhaust pipe) with a #40 torx bit on a 1/4" wrench ( i have gear wrench swivel head ratcheting wrenches but my smallest size is 5/16", that's why i used a regular open/box end wrench and had to hold the bit in place by hand). The rest of the pan bolts will come out easy tomorrow morning. I also sprayed the three transmission mount bolts with PB blaster then hit them with am impact gun and a 16MM socket. They are loosened up near the ends of the bolt threads. Once again my question is how much does the transmission have to be jacked up to allow the clearance with the new PPE pan? This is my first time doing this and I want to get it right.

thanks

I find it easier to loosen the exhaust at the manifolds slightly,so it'll drop down an inch or so.

 

[EdGs]

AFAIK, the PPE pans should clear. But if you did have to jack up the trans, it really shouldn't have to be jacked up very much.

 

[HangmanNY]

So basically it’s about an inch or so that is needed for the clearance of the new PPE pan?

 

[PoMansRam]

For a 2015 in the rust-belt, exhaust bolts are likely in bad shape. I think you're on the right track with loosening the trans mounts. Any videos I've seen only required jacking up the transmission maybe 1/2"

In terms of leveling the pan rail for proper fluid level, to me the main thing is to be close and measure what you got out and make sure you're at least at that amount of fluid going back in.

 

[Atcer2018]

After repeatedly trying to level the transmission I think I have it right. It wound up with the rear wheels almost exactly 9 inches up off the ground. I wound up using a torpedo level because the other small level I couldn’t see the level/bubble from below. I’m hoping I found the correct place to get an accurate reading to see if the transmission is level

From your pics it appears you have the level on top of the transmission itself? I used the transmission pan rail to gauge level. I’m at work and don’t have the instructions to review but I believe they say level at the pan rail. Imagine If the transmission pan was removed, the smooth machined surface that the pan attaches to is the point that I gauged level. I may be incorrect but it’s worth getting a second opinion.
Sorry I can’t help with the PPE pan instal on the V8 as mine is on a V6 and I had plenty of clearance but far less torque and horsepower lol.
I used the barrel spacers from the OEM pan on my PPE pan to protect the integrity of the gasket.

 

[HangmanNY]

I went back into the garage with the torpedo level. I was able to catch a thin edge of the transmission pan surface. Then another thin edge further forward. I’m getting the same reading on the torpedo level. So does that mean I’m good to go for tomorrow morning?

I have one other question. The rear wheels are on jack stands @ 9” up off the garage floor. The front wheels are on the floor. After filling the transmission and going from park to reverse, drive, neutral (a couple of times). After that Is the “second gear” part necessary? Because like I said I’ve got the rear wheels up and the front wheels on the garage floor. I know I have to monitor the transmission temperature on the dash display.

Thanks for any clarification on that.

 

[Wild one]

I went back into the garage with the torpedo level. I was able to catch a thin edge of the transmission pan surface. Then another thin edge further forward. I’m getting the same reading on the torpedo level. So does that mean I’m good to go for tomorrow morning?

I have one other question. The rear wheels are on jack stands @ 9” up off the garage floor. The front wheels are on the floor. After filling the transmission and going from park to reverse, drive, neutral (a couple of times). After that Is the “second gear” part necessary? Because like I said I’ve got the rear wheels up and the front wheels on the garage floor. I know I have to monitor the transmission temperature on the dash display.

Thanks for any clarification on that.

Once you have the pan off,stick your level on the pan rails where the pan bolts on.From what i've gathered up,the shift into 2nd gear is supposedly done to fill the clutch circuits. Make sure you start with a cold transmission,as it'll be getting close to the 122F temp,by the time you get through the procedure.The transmission might even make the shift into 2nd at idle,but if not,just give it enough gas pedal to make the shift. My truck will make the shift into 2nd with-out any gas,but my idle is also turned up to 750rpm via my tune.

 

[Atcer2018]

I went back into the garage with the torpedo level. I was able to catch a thin edge of the transmission pan surface. Then another thin edge further forward. I’m getting the same reading on the torpedo level. So does that mean I’m good to go for tomorrow morning?

I have one other question. The rear wheels are on jack stands @ 9” up off the garage floor. The front wheels are on the floor. After filling the transmission and going from park to reverse, drive, neutral (a couple of times). After that Is the “second gear” part necessary? Because like I said I’ve got the rear wheels up and the front wheels on the garage floor. I know I have to monitor the transmission temperature on the dash display.

Thanks for any clarification on that.

Yes that is the proper place to check for level in your last post pic. Looks like you are good to go! As Wild One states start off with a cold transmission. Drain, replace the pan and fill before you even start her up for the first time. That will give you ample time to do the procedure for final fill before the transmission reaches 122f.
I leveled my transmission by backing up my fairly steep driveway. I skipped the shift to second gear step since all four wheels were on the ground. After I completed the final fill procedure I took the truck on a 20 minute drive, waited several hours till it cooled below 122f and rechecked the fluid level. I initially drained 5 1/2 quarts minus what was left in the pan and filter and put a little over 5 3/4 quarts back in the first time with an OEM type pan. The second time it took 6 1/2 quarts with the PPE pan.
PLEASE NOTE: to recheck the fluid level at any time you must follow the procedure posted by Wild One. If you just pull the fill plug and a cold transmission you will have a big mess as the torque converter fills during the fill/check procedure. Once the truck is turned off and the transmission cools the torque converter dumps a lot of fluid back into the pan that goes way past the fill plug. Please don’t ask me how I know this :-(

 

[HangmanNY]

Good morning,

Once I get the original pan off I’m going to check the transmission surfaces for level again. I’m going to see if I can get access to the drain plug to avoid too much of a mess. Otherwise I’m just going to have to remove the bolts and let it leak out. Then I’m going to remove the bolts and spacers and install them in the new PPE pan.

Have you guys had good results with the Valvoline max life in the ZF transmission? Right now I have 7 quarts of the lifeguard 8 fluid plus three gallons of the Valvoline MaxLife (which I picked up yesterday).

 

[HangmanNY]

I was able to get the drain pan out by using a hex wrench and cutting a half an inch off the short end. That gave me enough room to get the drain plug out. After that finished draining I got the entire pan out.

I took the spacers to a bench grinder and clean them up with the wire wheel. Then I gave him a thin coat of oil. I would’ve thought that these people at PPE Would have either made those holes a touch larger. Or included the spacers with them. I got the brushed finished model. There was a bit of overspray inside the holes for the bolts. Luckily I have a large wooden vice and I put the pan in there. I used a round file to clean up the inside edges. But even after that I had to very carefully and gently tap these spacers in with a hammer. Then the last eighth of an inch to use a metal punch which was close to the diameter of these spacers. I just got it done a few minutes ago. They are sitting flush with the inside surface where the gasket goes. Is that correct?

I’m going to contact the company after this to complain about these holes.

I bought a new Felpro gasket for the new PPE pan. However I’ve read threads where people have used the old gasket again. Is that OK to do?

 

[turkeybird56]

Re using a gasket, hmmmm, when I was a kid and poor, lmao, we used a lot of Permatex with old cork to put back on. (old Chevy 327/396). But with these new fangled electronic monsters, etc etc, I personally would put on a new gasket and tighten and torque to specs and after running a while, like maybe 2 weeks, jack back up and re-verify torque-tightness on pan bolts insuring to use bolt pattern for tightening sequence, but that is just me and I's a BOIRD ne way. ALL IMHO (very humble, not a mechanic, just been laying on garage floor/driveway too many times, lol).

ADDED: I have found now, in my "golden" years, if I go and lay down there, may not get back up (Help me I've fallen, and cannot get up)) syndrome. Just laying on the garage floor to change the oil on my MC (Trike), I have no special floor jack for a three wheeler, is an exercise in futility, boy does it hurt and I have to gobble a bunch of Ibuprofen and use up a bottle of icy/hot afterwords), big stinky tailfeathers.

 

[HangmanNY]

I put the torpedo level on the long side of the transmission pan and the short side. I think it’s dead on. The top photo is the long rail of the transmission The bottom photo is the narrow edge.

 

[HangmanNY]

Should these transmission bolts be going back in dry? Anti-seize or no anti-seize? I’m going to clean them up on the bench grinder wire wheel

 

[EdGs]

Should these transmission bolts be going back in dry? Anti-seize or no anti-seize? I’m going to clean them up on the bench grinder wire wheel

Dry, IIRC. The pan bolts are only torqued to 88 in-lbs, I believe. That is with the OE pan. Not sure if the PPE is any different.

The spacers should stick down slightly on the gasket side. This holds the gasket in place and helps prevent squishing the gasket too much

You can still break them, so be careful.

When I did my '15, I used a cut-down 10mm to loosen the drain plug, and let it drain, Wiped up the the exhaust pipe crossover with a rag sprayed with brakleen. easy-peasy.

 

[turkeybird56]

Should these transmission bolts be going back in dry? Anti-seize or no anti-seize? I’m going to clean them up on the bench grinder wire wheel

I personally would use "blue" locktite on them, but now, if that "trans" casing is aluminum, I would now USE anti-seize on the bolts and not be a "torque" monster on those bolts either, but torque to specs, friggin aluminum easy to strip, just saying. But I am no mechanic, but heck, I have TO use anti-seize even on my spark plugs on my Motorcycle due to aluminum, but to use/not use, hmmmmm, get opinions both ways, but insure you Use proper tightening sequence.

 

[HangmanNY]

Dry, IIRC. The pan bolts are only torqued to 88 in-lbs, I believe. That is with the OE pan. Not sure if the PPE is any different.

The spacers should stick down slightly on the gasket side. This holds the gasket in place and helps prevent squishing the gasket too much

You can still break them, so be careful.

When I did my '15, I used a cut-down 10mm to loosen the drain plug, and let it drain, Wiped up the the exhaust pipe crossover with a rag sprayed with brakleen. easy-peasy.

The spacers are slightly recessed on the gasket side. Is that correct? Because that’s where I have them now.

 

[EdGs]

I think you'll be fine. My pan was OE, not familiar with the PPE, although I am thinking about the upgrade myself.