TRUCK PULLING RIGHT....SHOP SAYS IT DOESNT NEED ALIGNMENT

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POINTMAN380

POINTMAN380

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The synergy drag link was replaced under recall by FCA. It’s designed to be adjustable so that I can loosen it, adjust the wheel, and re tighten. It’s just that some dude named Hercules installed it. Synergy is, in my opinion, probably the best name brand out there for my truck.
 

Sherman Bird

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The synergy drag link was replaced under recall by FCA. It’s designed to be adjustable so that I can loosen it, adjust the wheel, and re tighten. It’s just that some dude named Hercules installed it. Synergy is, in my opinion, probably the best name brand out there for my truck.



Tell "Hercules" the we mere mortals can't handle it when he and his type tighten fasteners til they feel soft and back off 1/8 turn! ;)
 
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POINTMAN380

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While I respect your learned opinion, I still wonder how the "lesser" aftermarket part would affect your warranty. As a 27 year veteran of GM and Ford, I've seen consumers get otherwise legitimate warranty claims denied due to aftermarket retrofits. Honestly, though, at the end of my GM stint, the company was bleeding to death financially and quickly approaching their impending bankruptcy. I saw them give a new engine to a young man whose car (A Trans Am) was fitted with nitro, and had grease pen writing on the right side of the windshield denoting his drag racing bracket and handicap, and the time slip on the passenger front seat from his last race before the engine grenaded!

Tell "Hercules" the we mere mortals can't handle it when he and his type tighten fasteners til they feel soft and back off 1/8 turn! ;)
I think you’re misunderstanding. The synergy drag link is substantially superior to the oem part. And was also paid for, documented,and supplied by RAM. It removed the recall from my truck.
 

SeppW

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That’s the bad part. The shop that did the installation of all the parts had to pass it off to a local dealership for the alignment and I never got any paperwork back showing the specs. But two different shops have told me that the alignment is perfect. All I know is the pulling to the right has stopped.

I can't say I have experienced tire balance causing pull. I would think a broke cord might make it pull. When they did the road force, did they use stick-on and clip-on or did they just stack stick-on weights on each other. A lot counter weight could be a wheel issue or tire out of round.
 

crazy jerry

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this is why nobody touches my vehicles but me. to many shops have no idea what theyre doing. they dont follow proper procedures. they use the wrong tools for the job. they dont believe in torq wrenches. that draglink has a pinch bolt on either end. nuts should be only 90ftlb at very most. the top portion of the bar has adjuster sleeve in it. the bar is probly clamped to tight on the sleeve or it may even be crimped into the sleeves notch. remove the bolt and pry apart the pinch bolt ears and the adjuster sleeve will turn
 
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POINTMAN380

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I can't say I have experienced tire balance causing pull. I would think a broke cord might make it pull. When they did the road force, did they use stick-on and clip-on or did they just stack stick-on weights on each other. A lot counter weight could be a wheel issue or tire out of round.
I’ll have to check cause I’m not sure. But the wheels, tires, drag link, track bar, and leveling springs were/are brand new and installed all at the same time. I honestly think it was just an alignment issue. I’m sure it was within specs but to the extreme edge of those specs.
 

SeppW

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I’ll have to check cause I’m not sure. But the wheels, tires, drag link, track bar, and leveling springs were/are brand new and installed all at the same time. I honestly think it was just an alignment issue. I’m sure it was within specs but to the extreme edge of those specs.

I went with a different level kit and the company owner recommends specific alignment specs. See article here: https://www.thurenfabrication.com/tech/alignment-and-handling.html. I run these specs and no issues. When I bought the truck I had to get the wheels road force balanced to cure a shimmy that would occur when running at 75MPH or more. They did a crap job used clip-on weights and the stick-on, and stacked those, didn't even clean the adhesive off when they removed weights applied at factory, but it cured the shimmy. I currently run AEV Saltas with Toyo OC CT, they are balanced with a spin balancer and run flawlessly.
 

Sherman Bird

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this is why nobody touches my vehicles but me. to many shops have no idea what theyre doing. they dont follow proper procedures. they use the wrong tools for the job. they dont believe in torq wrenches. that draglink has a pinch bolt on either end. nuts should be only 90ftlb at very most. the top portion of the bar has adjuster sleeve in it. the bar is probly clamped to tight on the sleeve or it may even be crimped into the sleeves notch. remove the bolt and pry apart the pinch bolt ears and the adjuster sleeve will turn

It was the summer of 1972. I'd just gotten my license in June. I already owned my first car (1968 Falcon... 6 cyl, automatic). I had my little Craftsman tool chest (still have it). I had just enough tools to do the basics myself, had and still have a Chilton's repair manual for 1968-1972 domestic cars, and just enough ambition to get into trouble... BUT I also knew what I DIDN'T know. So, I got into my car to drive to school one morning and the auto trans would not shift from 1 to 2 until the engine was maxed and I was doing 40 or so. The automatic transmission was a voodoo black box to me and my buddies back then, and I didn't have very much money, so, I took the car to an AAMCO store. They had an ad for a free roadtest and diagnostic in the newspaper, so over there I went.

The big bellied manager who'd road tested the car with me directed me to have a seat in the customer waiting area.... which had big glass windows so one could observe the goings on out in the shop. They racked it up and beckoned two of their shop mechanics and I observed them discuss and point to the right rear area of the transmission, nod their heads, and the coterie disbanded.

Big bellied man comes into the customer lounge with a look on his face akin to a surgeon telling a family that their loved one passed away during surgery. He informed me that my transmission needed an overhaul, and I was in luck because it was on sale for a mere 325 dollars! That's $2031.00 in today's money! Now, where is a high school kid going to scrounge up THAT kind of money? I had 3 dollars in my billfold!

Needless to say, I thanked him and left! And took it to 2 more Transmission "specialists" who gave me the same story. One of the subsequent 2 even "salted" my pan! That means they put metal shavings in it and brought it into the customer lounge and told me my transmission "Might not make it home"! His misfortune was I SAW him put the shavings in my pan! Keep in mind, I had no money, so these visits were me reacting to newspaper ads, and all of these places raised the car up on their lift, and looked at the transmission. Discouraged at the rife dishonesty, I went home and got out the Yellow Pages... and began calling around to transmission shops. Most didn't want to talk to a kid over the phone... until I reached one over by Hobby Airport.... across Houston from where I lived at that time. A crusty, gravelly voiced man listened to my story of symptoms and what I'd experienced. After a pause, he barked "The Fu%%ing vacuum line either split or fell off the modulator"! He went on to explain it, and I thanked him for his time.

I went out and crawled under the car and, wouldn't you know, the 3 inch long piece of vacuum hose which went from the steel tubing to the vacuum modulator was split along one side. I went to Pettigrew-Smith auto parts and bought a piece of vacuum tubing for 10 cents. I put it on the car and it was fixed. I never had another moment's trouble from that transmission... even after I passed the car to my brother, who used the car to deliver news papers later on during his college years!

That experience galvanized me... I never trusted anyone ever again in their assessment of my car. I certainly did all my own repairs that I could. As a final observation, the 3 places all raised the car up and looked right at that split vacuum hose.... it was on the right rear of the transmission. You make your own conclusion.
 

Rocketjam

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I, like you have encountered same experience many times Chiltens was best friend those days and now YouTube and this forum. Thanks to everyone that give advise/suggestions.
 

User NameJD29588

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I have had this problem: Pulling to the right after a complete steering/suspension rebuild and two alignment shops. So I tppk it to a friends house.
My friend and racing buddy took a look at it and asked me where I bought my big tires. He then asked, "Were they paired or did they just pull 4 tires and slap them on. Did you measure them?" I didn't know what he was talking about. So he showed me. He took a fabric measuring tape from his race car trailer. First, we got the truck up on jack stands and aired the tires exactly to the psi recommended. Then, he measured the circumference of each tire. Next, he told me to take off the tires and switch them, matching the measurements as close as we could to make pairs It was amazing to see how different the tires were. We also put the largest tires to the passenger side, something about the "crown" of the road. So now, the front tires are paired and the rear tires are paired with the largest of each pair on the passenger side of my truck. Got in and test drove it and the truck went straight down the road with hands off the steering wheel. Also cleared up a slight vibration I didn't realize I had. The truck is so quiet now at all speeds and is a joy to drive.
 
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POINTMAN380

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I have had this problem: Pulling to the right after a complete steering/suspension rebuild and two alignment shops. So I tppk it to a friends house.
My friend and racing buddy took a look at it and asked me where I bought my big tires. He then asked, "Were they paired or did they just pull 4 tires and slap them on. Did you measure them?" I didn't know what he was talking about. So he showed me. He took a fabric measuring tape from his race car trailer. First, we got the truck up on jack stands and aired the tires exactly to the psi recommended. Then, he measured the circumference of each tire. Next, he told me to take off the tires and switch them, matching the measurements as close as we could to make pairs It was amazing to see how different the tires were. We also put the largest tires to the passenger side, something about the "crown" of the road. So now, the front tires are paired and the rear tires are paired with the largest of each pair on the passenger side of my truck. Got in and test drove it and the truck went straight down the road with hands off the steering wheel. Also cleared up a slight vibration I didn't realize I had. The truck is so quiet now at all speeds and is a joy to drive.
Well that would make sense...being that mine was cleared up with a simple tire rotation where the left side was moved to the right side. I would have never thought of that being an issue but mine sure does track straight as an arrow.

thanks for the info.
 

V delivery

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I have a 2018 ram 2500 that pulls to the right. Bought the truck new and everyone has done everything and yet still pulls. I took it into a body shop and had them measure the truck and it has a twisted frame. I am getting a lawyer and am looking for people who have the same problem.
 

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