Turbo? Actuator? Or Injectors? Loss of power, black cloud.

[Jim 11]

Newish to diesels. I’ve had my ‘11 2500 for about 1-1/2 years.

I‘ve been getting an occasional CEL code P2262 (Turbo boost pressure not detected), but no other symptoms. The other day it also threw a P226C (Turbocharger boost control). Again, no other symptoms.

Tonight while exiting a traffic circle “roundabout” as I tried to accelerate coming out of it I had no power. The truck “dieseled” a little and had a ********* cloud of smoke. I pulled over, turned off the exhaust brake and power seemed to be back to normal. Until I slowed down again to turn off the highway. No cloud this time, but it stumbled a little was lacking power on acceleration.

I’m on the road currently so I can’t check my codes at the moment, but what‘s my likely culprit? The actuator?

 

[Jim 11]

Also…EGR and DPF deleted with Mini Maxx Tuner.

Current codes are P040d and P2262

 

[Jeepwalker]

Codes can sometime be vague.

First and foremost, check the air filter. Make sure it's clean.

Then, can you hear the turbo 'spin up'?

Check the wires and connectors down at the turbo actuator. There's a lot of heat down there. It's definitely possible a wire or connector is burnt or corroded connector. Check that first if you don't hear your turbo spinning up.

Then inspect the turbo pipes esp on the plastic intake side. But also the sealing on the exhaust side. Inspect for ill fitment, micro-cracks and/or a clamp came off etc. Ensure your exhaust manifold gaskets aren't leaking.

I believe there is a Mass Air Flow sensor. Check the voltage reading it's sending out via a scanner. On a Jetta turbo diesel I had, I experienced the same symptoms you have. A qualified diesel mechanic looked at it b/c I was busy at work (that was a mistake). He claimed the turbo was shot. Well, ok, I unwisely took his word for it w/o doing all the 'checks' ....bought a brand new one, changed it myself. Didn't solve anything. Then I went back to doing all the basic tests I should have done in the first place. I ensured the turbo vanes were working properly, the vacuums were 'right' ...and pressure-tested the turbo pipes (all good). Eventually after a lot of head-scratching and sensor-checking, the MAF measured on the low end of the 'good' spectrum. So it wasn't shot per VW's specs, but it was barely 'good'. A new Bosch MAF and the vehicle ran perfect. You could (should) scan it and observe the MAF readings and compare to the 'ideal' reading level. Inspect turbo readings too. You could try cleaning the MAF too (with MAF cleaner).

One way you can test the MAF is to remove the connector and drive the truck. If it runs with less smoke (it'll have less power though) it's probably the maf (because that will put the computer into a pre-programmed 'limp mode'). Note that it'll set a MAF code.

If none of the above works, you may need to cap off certain pipes and perform pressure tests to ensure there aren't any leaks. That gets to be more work making up plugs and test equipment. Not that difficult, but time consuming.

So, there are a few possibilities, some very easy to check. I'm sure other guys will share things I didn't. If those all check out 'good', ....depending on how much work you want to put into it, you might consider taking to a dealer. It could be a quick fix for an experienced diesel mechanic who has access to the Ram service database. If they suggest replacing the turbo, ask them to prove it and get a second opinion. Even after 225k miles my old Jetta turbo had no more 'freeplay' than the brand new $$ Garret I bought.

 

[Dinky]

Check all hose clamps on the turbo system and intercooler system as well.

 

[Jeepwalker]

If you're running an 'oiled' air filter kit, those have been known to knock out MAF sensors. The MAF sensor determines how much air is going past it and into the engine. Anything that would throw off the amount of air the computer "thinks" is flowing past ..in other words a reading that doesn't correspond to the *actual* airflow like a leak in the system etc (i.e. cracked turbo pipe, bad turbo pipe clamp seal, rubber boot from the air filter box folded under, PCV hose off, Bad O2 sen, invalid engine temp sensor reading, bad MAF, maybe a severely bad manifold gasket) would have the possibility of throwing the computer into sending the wrong air/fuel ...making it run 'black'.

Also check any and all hoses associated with the air filter box and intake side.

Double-check the engine temperature sensor (for being faulty) and operation temperatures.

You might unhook your battery cables for a while to reset the computer and see if that solves anything. Probably not, but you never know.

 

[mtnrider]

P040d is something you should not be getting because you are deleted. Try reloading your tune, that should clear that.

P2262 is most likely your turbo actuator failing. Being a 2011 you are going to want to make sure the turbo itself moves freely before replacing the actuator.


.

 

[Dennis Shellito]

You don't say how many miles on your 2011 CTD, but the oem turbos don't last very long; at least that was the case of my 2011. When my truck started throwing turbo codes my mechanic didn't mess with an actuator and installed a new Fleece Cheetah turbo with the actuator, and I couldn't be happier. Not cheap but well worth the cost IMO.

 

[Jim 11]

“P040d is something you should not be getting because you are deleted. Try reloading your tune, that should clear that.

P2262 is most likely your turbo actuator failing. Being a 2011 you are going to want to make sure the turbo itself moves freely before replacing the actuator.”

.

Yeah I haven’t been able to get rid of he P040d. Tried reloading my tune, but maybe I’m not doing it right? It’s annoying because of the service exhaust message that blocks my ability to access the rest of the menu items on the EVIC

Reading up on P2262 that seems to be the likely culprit, thought I would ask the more experienced guys here. It’s a 2011 with 230k on it and as far as I know it’s the original turbo.

 

[Jim 11]

You don't say how many miles on your 2011 CTD, but the oem turbos don't last very long; at least that was the case of my 2011. When my truck started throwing turbo codes my mechanic didn't mess with an actuator and installed a new Fleece Cheetah turbo with the actuator, and I couldn't be happier. Not cheap but well worth the cost IMO.

230k

 

[Jim 11]

Codes can sometime be vague.

First and foremost, check the air filter. Make sure it's clean.

Then, can you hear the turbo 'spin up'?

One way you can test the MAF is to remove the connector and drive the truck. If it runs with less smoke (it'll have less power though) it's probably the maf (because that will put the computer into a pre-programmed 'limp mode'). Note that it'll set a MAF code.

So, there are a few possibilities, some very easy to check. I'm sure other guys will share things I didn't. If those all check out 'good', ....depending on how much work you want to put into it, you might consider taking to a dealer. It could be a quick fix for an experienced diesel mechanic who has access to the Ram service database. If they suggest replacing the turbo, ask them to prove it and get a second opinion. Even after 225k miles my old Jetta turbo had no more 'freeplay' than the brand new $$ Garret I bought.

Turbo does spin up. No smoke other than at that one moment. After I shut off the exhaust brake, haven’t had any more smoke, and just a slight loss of power when accelerating out of a turn.

I’ve got it scheduled to go into a trusted shop, but they re scheduled out a couple weeks unfortunately. I used to do all my own diagnostics and wrenching, but a motorcycle wreck put me in a wheelchair and I just can’t see over the hood anymore. lol