Explit Player
Senior Member
Things you will need:
-A full afternoon
-Grinder, and sandpaper (I used 36grit I believe)
-Rust Mort or similar (turns rust into iron)
-Body filler such as "Kitty Hair"
-Etching primer or similar
-Color matched spray paint (optional)
-Plastidip (optional)
____________________________________
Start with a nice fancy rust bubble. I have multiple on each side so you may see different ones throughout this process.
Grind at an angle, away the paint bubble, and deep enough that the rust is no longer solid. Surface rust is okay, as that will be addressed later on in the tutorial.
This is okay to have.
Now, spray sparingly Rust Mort onto the rusted surface and let dry. Be careful with this stuff as it is very potent, and can harm your skin and eyes severally. Spray a coating of this onto the surface and let dry. Repeat 3 times for best result
Next,(SKIP this step if you are going to use body filler and try to paint match the paint(next section)) wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol, and get self etching primer and use accordingly on the spots. Let dry, add another coat if needed.
Congratulations! Your rust is gone and (from my understanding) should never come back!
But wait... There's more!
_____________________________
Items required
-polishing pad (optional polisher/buffer)
-light/medium polishing compound
-Can of touch up spray paint from Advanced or AutoZone
-80/120 grit wet/dry sand paper
-300/320 grit wet dry sand paper
-600 grit wet/dry sand paper
-1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper
-(optional) 5000 grit wet/dry sand paper
-82% or higher isopropyl rubbing alcohol
-kitty hair or similar body filler
No pics on this part as i haven't had the weather to take the pics when I did this step before, I'll add pics as time and weather permit!
Here... Here is the optional, hard part, that I only recommend doing if you have fender flares over the rust bubbles, or you flat out dont care if you mess up, anything is better than a rust-mobile, as this can have mixed results depending on weather, pressure applied, sunlight, all that.
Start by dabbing Kitty Hair (or similar) into the holes and gaps. Let cure, and grab 80-120 grit sand paper, and carefully shape the repair back into contour of the bed (tape off all oem paint). Before completely contour matched, go up in sand paper to 300-320 grit, remove a decent amount of tape border, and smooth the sanding marks to match the body and contours. Repeat with 600 grit if wanted. Wipe everything down with 82%+ isopropyl alcohol. Next get your automotive primer and make a base coat for the color match paint.
BIG PART, wipe everything down with 82%+ isopropyl alcohol a second time, as these are your finishing steps.
Clean and make a light base coat of touch up paint, let dry, do 3-4 more light coats but strive for full coverage. Finally go back and spray 1-2 regular coats onto the paint. Now, (let completely dry or touch up paint will gum up on the paper) with wet 1000 grit, sand the surrounding area, then move to 2000 repeat, go even 1 step further if needed, and jump to wet 5000 grit. You should have all blemishes painted and sanded and matched pretty decently.
Now, get a light-medium polishing compound, and hand buff, or lightly machine buff out the wet sanding marks. If you want to go further, bump up to a fine polish and repeat the last step.
Congratulations, now you have gone the step further and repainted your trucks rusty ass stupid F****** bed panel(s) (sorry just got carried away because these panels constantly do this to dodge trucks)
But you have now successfully fixed the panel! Hopefully the paint matching tutorial was simple and understandable enough to do it! If there is anything else I can post to make it better PM me and I will change it right away!!
-A full afternoon
-Grinder, and sandpaper (I used 36grit I believe)
-Rust Mort or similar (turns rust into iron)
-Body filler such as "Kitty Hair"
-Etching primer or similar
-Color matched spray paint (optional)
-Plastidip (optional)
____________________________________
Start with a nice fancy rust bubble. I have multiple on each side so you may see different ones throughout this process.
Grind at an angle, away the paint bubble, and deep enough that the rust is no longer solid. Surface rust is okay, as that will be addressed later on in the tutorial.
This is okay to have.
Now, spray sparingly Rust Mort onto the rusted surface and let dry. Be careful with this stuff as it is very potent, and can harm your skin and eyes severally. Spray a coating of this onto the surface and let dry. Repeat 3 times for best result
Next,(SKIP this step if you are going to use body filler and try to paint match the paint(next section)) wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol, and get self etching primer and use accordingly on the spots. Let dry, add another coat if needed.
Congratulations! Your rust is gone and (from my understanding) should never come back!
But wait... There's more!
_____________________________
Items required
-polishing pad (optional polisher/buffer)
-light/medium polishing compound
-Can of touch up spray paint from Advanced or AutoZone
-80/120 grit wet/dry sand paper
-300/320 grit wet dry sand paper
-600 grit wet/dry sand paper
-1000 and 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper
-(optional) 5000 grit wet/dry sand paper
-82% or higher isopropyl rubbing alcohol
-kitty hair or similar body filler
No pics on this part as i haven't had the weather to take the pics when I did this step before, I'll add pics as time and weather permit!
Here... Here is the optional, hard part, that I only recommend doing if you have fender flares over the rust bubbles, or you flat out dont care if you mess up, anything is better than a rust-mobile, as this can have mixed results depending on weather, pressure applied, sunlight, all that.
Start by dabbing Kitty Hair (or similar) into the holes and gaps. Let cure, and grab 80-120 grit sand paper, and carefully shape the repair back into contour of the bed (tape off all oem paint). Before completely contour matched, go up in sand paper to 300-320 grit, remove a decent amount of tape border, and smooth the sanding marks to match the body and contours. Repeat with 600 grit if wanted. Wipe everything down with 82%+ isopropyl alcohol. Next get your automotive primer and make a base coat for the color match paint.
BIG PART, wipe everything down with 82%+ isopropyl alcohol a second time, as these are your finishing steps.
Clean and make a light base coat of touch up paint, let dry, do 3-4 more light coats but strive for full coverage. Finally go back and spray 1-2 regular coats onto the paint. Now, (let completely dry or touch up paint will gum up on the paper) with wet 1000 grit, sand the surrounding area, then move to 2000 repeat, go even 1 step further if needed, and jump to wet 5000 grit. You should have all blemishes painted and sanded and matched pretty decently.
Now, get a light-medium polishing compound, and hand buff, or lightly machine buff out the wet sanding marks. If you want to go further, bump up to a fine polish and repeat the last step.
Congratulations, now you have gone the step further and repainted your trucks rusty ass stupid F****** bed panel(s) (sorry just got carried away because these panels constantly do this to dodge trucks)
But you have now successfully fixed the panel! Hopefully the paint matching tutorial was simple and understandable enough to do it! If there is anything else I can post to make it better PM me and I will change it right away!!
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