Uconnect 5.0 add sub

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Steamboat87

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So I've searched and have been reading the forums but it seems all I can find is posts regarding the 8.4 system.

I have a '14 with the uconnect 5.0. I plan on a 10"sub/amp install. Plan on keeping the standard hu. I've seen a few replies around here saying that they have heard people are having trouble with the 5.0. So my question is, I guess, is it possible to keep the stock 5.0 HU and add a sub? (I understand the LOC connector, but Ive heard troubles with the 5.0 "reading" the sub so to speak) I have the stock 6 speaker no alpine. Thanks everyone sorry jf I'm confusing.

If anyone knows of a thread already posted please let me know. I feel I really am not the first with this question. But I cannot find anything.


Austin
 

reek

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Steamboat87

Steamboat87

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Thanks for the info. Good stuff. Ill give it a whirl. Most likely end up at a audio shop. Hope they know what's going on. I'll post when I get going on it!!


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AmoAgave

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If you're just adding a sub you're fine. tap the rear speakers right in the B pillar and you will have no issues.

My problem (and others) was trying to add an entire system rather then just a sub. If there are speakers on the line adding resistance then you're gold. :)
And the best I can tell the rear are full range or at least have the entire low frequency spectrum you will need.

The 5.0 (probably 3.0 too) needs resistance and more then the resistors Audiocontrol recommends will give. Odd problem that seems to be unique to the Chrysler deck used in the Ram, Jeep, Fiat, Dodge etc. GM, Honda and a few others have a similar issue that is easy to fix with 150ohm resistors. Ours are not that easy. I'm going to try a 20ohm and see what happens.

Anyway, you're not in this boat. You can do this in an hour probably, no real need for an audio shop. Power, ground, tap and enjoy.
 
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Steamboat87

Steamboat87

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If you're just adding a sub you're fine. tap the rear speakers right in the B pillar and you will have no issues.



My problem (and others) was trying to add an entire system rather then just a sub. If there are speakers on the line adding resistance then you're gold. :)

And the best I can tell the rear are full range or at least have the entire low frequency spectrum you will need.



The 5.0 (probably 3.0 too) needs resistance and more then the resistors Audiocontrol recommends will give. Odd problem that seems to be unique to the Chrysler deck used in the Ram, Jeep, Fiat, Dodge etc. GM, Honda and a few others have a similar issue that is easy to fix with 150ohm resistors. Ours are not that easy. I'm going to try a 20ohm and see what happens.



Anyway, you're not in this boat. You can do this in an hour probably, no real need for an audio shop. Power, ground, tap and enjoy.


Well that boosted my confidence. Was planning on trying that but expecting the outcome to be nill. Now I'm expecting it to work so I'm inclined to at least try it. I'll let you know how it goes, thanks!


Austin
 

ZAR

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Just added a 10" sub to my 5.0 by tapping the rear speakers at the b pillars for the hi level inputs on my amp. Piece of cake.
 
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Steamboat87

Steamboat87

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ZAR, I've been delaying my install, and that sounds nice. May I ask where exactly are the B Pillars? Sorry if it's a dumb question.


Austin
 

popjim52

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Yeah good luck with all that,I tried 4 separate times , 2 different amps and could not whatsoever hook up my entire new 6 speaker and sub setup to work. I am not skilled enough to even know what resistors are let alone run them in line also.So to the audio shop it will go.. Tired of messing with it...
 

salohcin

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ZAR, I've been delaying my install, and that sounds nice. May I ask where exactly are the B Pillars? Sorry if it's a dumb question.


Austin

Don't yell at me I know it's a honda....it was the first one on google images


a-b-c-pillars.jpg
 

reek

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you don't need resistors

Yeah good luck with all that,I tried 4 separate times , 2 different amps and could not whatsoever hook up my entire new 6 speaker and sub setup to work. I am not skilled enough to even know what resistors are let alone run them in line also.So to the audio shop it will go.. Tired of messing with it...

You just need a speaker level resistance at each channel and your sub/amps will work. The 5.0 has front and rear channels. The front is split into dash and door. Rear is just rear door.

I have new dash speakers powered off the head units and then tapped off that, signal sent to a LC6i processor, then to the amp, then to door speakers.

Rear, I have a dummy box build with cheap3.5 inch speakers that produce almost no sound. tapped off that signal sent to the LC6i processor that splits signal to sub and rear channel. From there to amps for rear speakers and a separate rear sub amp. Set levels in relation to dash speaker level and every thing works perfectly.

you could skip the sound processor if you have speaker level inputs on your amps but then you wouldn't get to split the rear signal for a sub.
 
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