UConnect

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SitKneelBend

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Thank again. Side question.
, if i swap in a used head unit or card how do I get updates? It looks like they use the vin, correct?
Nope, pretty much for anyone nowadays, the UConnect site gives firmware to nobody instead opting for over the air updates (which is not often if ever) or by directing folks to dealerships for paid firmware updates (UConnect and dealerships are entirely unrelated but they love pointing the finger at each other with you in the middle when something goes wrong, they do not work together in any meaningful way). All this to say, you can break the radio or fix the radio yourself in the same way the dealership will when paid (likely $150+), but if you do it it's free.

The files that @Mpgrimm2 has collated are the exact files that would be used by dealerships to update firmware. Furthermore, it's often recommended that if you don't have a problem presently there generally is no need to update the firmware. New features are rarely added and some firmwares introduce new bugs while fixing others.

One piece of advice I do give however, if you buy an OEM radio and it has a return period for it, I recommend flashing to the latest firmware while in this window to ensure the radio is functioning properly. A Firmware update can expose underlying hardware issues that are not evident until a firmware flash is attempted.

I would keep a record of the source vehicle VIN however just in case.
 
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Keith1

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Ok, I'm trying to update my radio and it keeps hanging up at unit 11 @1% what do i do now?
 
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Keith1

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If you have the money, I think you would be very please with upgrading to either a 2018+ OEM radio or aftermarket. There is no guarantee that the aircard swap will fix you (but it likely will). I'd be happy to help you find a salvage radio at a decent price if you want to upgrade. If you go aftermarket, Crutchfield is the best for finding all the adapters to make the radio install go smoothly. The Chinese Android radios are a budget middle ground that users seem to be happy with to gain Android Auto and Carplay (but support may be more difficult).

Your current radio in even in it's current state will be worth some money too should you choose to sell it (I'd say $100-$200).

To answer you other question directly, yes the AR7552 should be the only part you need to fix your radio. If you go to eBay and put one in your watchlist now, you may get a lower offer from the seller while you mull over your options.
Well it looking like time to swap. Besides the head unit, what other parts do I need for a 2018 upgrade?
 

SitKneelBend

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Well it looking like time to swap. Besides the head unit, what other parts do I need for a 2018 upgrade?
You will need a new USB hub if you want Android Auto and Apple Carplay to work (this also requires a small conversion harness that can be purchased from @Mpgrimm2 ), and a new UAS (no navigation ) or UAQ (with Navigation) radio.

Further details can be found here...

 
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Keith1

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That's what it looks like. What do I search for? I've tried several things but no luck.
 
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Keith1

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You will need a new USB hub if you want Android Auto and Apple Carplay to work (this also requires a small conversion harness that can be purchased from @Mpgrimm2 ), and a new UAS (no navigation ) or UAQ (with Navigation) radio.

Further details can be found here...


Ok let me do some searching and see what i can find.
 

SitKneelBend

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That's what it looks like. What do I search for? I've tried several things but no luck.
I "think" it's a Sierra Wireless AirPrime AR7552 BUT I've never seen inside an RA4 to confirm the part. If you are handy it's very easy to open the radio and look for the part number in question.
 
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Keith1

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Sounds good. Thanks again. I finally remembered what you had told me before so I'll go searching.
 
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Keith1

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Ok, i know yall are getting tired of this but, how do I get my radio out of the reload loop? It keep cycling between load and fail after trying to upgrade. Kind of worried about killing my batteries
 

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Ok, i know yall are getting tired of this but, how do I get my radio out of the reload loop? It keep cycling between load and fail after trying to upgrade. Kind of worried about killing my batteries
2 options that sometimes work...

Leave USB stick plugged in with a battery charger hooked up overnight and see if it recovers, which can take up to 3 tried it's I remember correctly ... (May not happen with a failed air card update).

Pull the radio fuse under the hood for 2 mins and try a hard reset...

- single battery : sticking out of a harness near the driver side brake booster/firewall

- dual battery truck : sticking out of harness near passenger side reservoir tank/firewall

--------------
If neither works, radio is done which sucks.

> Message sent
.
 
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Keith1

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Thanks forbthe tipp.
Found the fuse and seems to have stopped the loop.
 
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Keith1

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Well that didn't work. Just went out to check it and still in The loop. Had the fuse out about 20 minutes and no help
 

Mpgrimm2

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Per Keith's message, it came out of the loop on it's own about 1:30 today ... Not sure what SW version is on at the moment though?
 
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Keith1

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Hey everyone
Well I'm not sure what happened but the radio seems to be working now. Did about 180m round trip to the DR today and everything that worked, worked good. Still no NAV, but that's no big surprise, and lost backup camera on radio. I'm guessing the camera on the uconnect was unit 12,13,14 or 15 of the update as it hung up on 11. So I guess I'll look for an Air card now and see what it does. If I do swap the unit out I want something with Android Auto and retain all the factory functions, just not sure what the best option is.
Thanks again for all the over the top help.
 

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Running a 2018+ 4c (AA/CP) radio in your 8.4 dual zone ATC 2014 3509 truck with custom engine tune/deleted may be an issue.

Not sure if you have backup and cargo cam or just backup camera, but another 2014 Ra4 would be plug n play (or a 2017 Ra4).
 
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Keith1

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I don't have a custom tune or delete, at least that I know of. Pretty much as it came from the dealership. I do however have backup and cargo cam I'd like to keep. That said I'd like to keep all the functions I have.
I've been wondering about that also. A used 2017 or earlier would be a cheaper, simpler swap. Think I could get one of those for half or less than a used 2018 or aftermarket unit. So think I'm gonna go that direction.
 
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