Uh ohh.... a few hard shifts. Trans on the way out?

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Jeepwalker

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There could be as many as a couple hundered thousand trucks already built just waiting for computers ..between all the mfgrs....just aging away in parking lots. They've got to get rid of them. Chips and magnesium will eventually flow and those trucks got to get sold. People who've been holding on to their vehicles (like you) will want to get new ones.

How did you come out on your tranny? (OP)
 
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NJ4X4

NJ4X4

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There could be as many as a couple hundered thousand trucks already built just waiting for computers ..between all the mfgrs....just aging away in parking lots. They've got to get rid of them. Chips and magnesium will eventually flow and those trucks got to get sold. People who've been holding on to their vehicles (like you) will want to get new ones.

How did you come out on your tranny? (OP)
I'm still ordering parts.... I got the redline C+ yesterday. Shudder guard lube will be here Saturday and the OEM sump filter on Sunday. I'm looking at these steel thread adapters. The link to the eBay one looks good....but it's a lot of 10 and is almost &70 with shipping. All the other ones I'm finding don't have full threads to the center piece. The threads taper down and people are saying they're using two o-rings with the steel adapter. Def not what I want to do.....so I'm still searching. Works sucks this week....going in early and staying late. I haven't had enough time to devote to ordering everything.
 
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Treburkulosis

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Good luck! That is the exact set up I am running in mine and it shifts smooth, forward, and no shudder.
 
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NJ4X4

NJ4X4

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Good luck! That is the exact set up I am running in mine and it shifts smooth, forward, and no shudder.
Thanks! I'm hoping it solves the hard shifts! One last part I need to order... the screw on oil type filter. And, apparently the better aftermarket ones need to have the paint removed before installing.
 

Treburkulosis

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daCelt

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I can’t say what the actual issue was for me but as mentioned in this thread, I lost OD and had some odd shifts at 135k mi. Tranny shop put in a torque converter and it’s been great for 50k miles. Good luck!
 

etbrown4

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If changing fluid doesn't help, I found that a factory software update did on my 2016 transmission #2.

It was shifting so hard I was expecting to see the rear thrown on the road in my rear view mirror. I was doubting the update would help, but it did the trick.

My first transmission failed at 59k. It had started with small slips upshifting to 2nd and 3rd. Eventually I had a blinking P or D on the selector, and it would not go into gear, and that was followed by internal clutch failure and computererror codes P1D42 and P1DA8
Gear Ratio Clutch. Got a new warranty replacement.

For hard shifts, I'd recommend a software update.
 
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NJ4X4

NJ4X4

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If changing fluid doesn't help, I found that a factory software update did on my 2016 transmission #2.

It was shifting so hard I was expecting to see the rear thrown on the road in my rear view mirror. I was doubting the update would help, but it did the trick.

My first transmission failed at 59k. It had started with small slips upshifting to 2nd and 3rd. Eventually I had a blinking P or D on the selector, and it would not go into gear, and that was followed by internal clutch failure and computererror codes P1D42 and P1DA8
Gear Ratio Clutch. Got a new warranty replacement.

For hard shifts, I'd recommend a software update.
Thanks for the response! I'm going to start with the fluid/filter change and see if that helps at all. It's only hard shifted 4 times total over a few weeks. I didn't notice any slipping at all, just hard shifts. Even the hard shifts weren't crazy hard....I just notice everything and know that ever happened before. As far as software updates, I'll look into it. I think you had a different trans than I do. I have the 6 speed and you probably had an 8 speed?
 

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They sell a solenoid replacement kit for these trannys. The best would be to hook it up to a scanner and even actuate the solenoid via the scanner. When our Jeep tranny solenoid went out (there are a couple, but only one went out), the shifting was delayed then it would 'clunk' into gear. Sort of snap yer head back a little. At road speeds it would go in and out of OD. Once the solenoid was replaced it took a day to relearn. Never had a problem after that. Our kid still drives that Jeep. Gosh, that was years ago.

Also make sure your vehicle's PVC, EGR and other systems are in good working order. A flaky temp sensor can affect shifting, as can other sensors or cracked vacuum hoses. It would be worthwhile to have a guy with a good scan tool look at it. A guy could waste a lot of time chasing dead ends. This is where the a good Ram service mechanic can save you some time. They'd need to drop the pan/fluid to replace the solenoid (as I recall).
 
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Andersoncma

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I had hard clunky shifts on my 68RFE trans until I swapped out my factory pan w a Dorman pan with drain. I am now able to perfectly fill my trans to the correct level and if I get a bit too much trans fluid in, I can easily drain some through my EZ Oil Drain plug without dropping the entire pan. I’ve noticed on mine that it will get very clunky even if it is overfilled by just a little bit. Remember, the 2 marks on the stick is NOT high/low, but rather Cold/Hot. When mine has sat overnite I want the fluid level just slightly touch the bottom of the stick (which is the cold mark)
 
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NJ4X4

NJ4X4

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A couple more questions.... I bought 2 gallons of redline C+, but will that be enough? Isn't there fluid left in the torque converter? I assume I just can't switch to redline without draining/flushing all the old fluid out? And, what's the consensus on gaskets? I was planning to use an RTV gasket maker.
 

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Transmission fluid level low? You said, it was replaced last year, check the color of it too to see if it nice and red.
I have 6sp RFE too.(same as yours) 95k miles on mine. Transmission tune with locked shifts. It kicks somewhat in low gears at low RPM. But in my case expected, due to tune.
Golly if I check my fluid its kinda of a dark green. So is my transfer case and axles. All green fluid. If it ever shows up red, I'll be changing it fast. It used to be blue. I think when I first got it that maybe it was red, but red sucks. I could of went yellow if I wanted.
 

NOV87

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Yeah, if your tranny shows up red, might as well go rainbow....
 
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NJ4X4

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So you tend to lose overdrive gears first with rfe's, it is likely the clutch packs or valve body accumulator pistons. Two must video watches are here below links, and you need a synthetic rfe filter upgrade with a metal thread, no more plastic. First things first, yes you will need 8 quarts of redline C+, it is pure rfe honey and will likely solve this. Now, you should drop the pan as well, so good time to find a synthetic filter from thread above and order it, knock the paint off it, purchase a rfe metal thread upgrade, and a sump filter I highly suggest mopar oem for this, and i don't recommend oem for hardly anything, but spark plugs and sump filters yes, do not use oem spin on filter, use the option from the thread above, and now all you need is transmission gasket maker.

Dime to donuts this gets you right, but to get longer use from your rfe have a plan soon to update valve body like the ones below, they have plate upgrades or gasket, if you are going to tune up pressure, you will want a plate, not cheap but will protect that rfe better. The cheaper route is a gasket shift kit w/o tuning psi. This is not a full flush, do not worry about that one bit, like I said if you plan to do this first and a larger fix later your fluid will be like new between the two procedures. You can get a new pan with bolt, this makes changing easier, but costs more every time you swap fluid and it will take more. The good thing about the rfe you can pump fluid right out of the dip stick and do some quick flushes and keep fluid fresh. 4 quarts out and 4 quarts in on any day you are bored.

Hemi395 found these and as far as I'm concerned they are the rfe bible.

Valve Body upgrades.

Rfe weaknesses.



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Hey Burla....question for you on removing the paint from this RP filter. The paint is on the inside of it too...see the attached pic. How did you remove that? Thanks!RP Filter.jpg
 

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tape the holes, use sandpaper, oscillator tool would make it easier.
 
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NJ4X4

NJ4X4

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tape the holes, use sandpaper, oscillator tool would make it easier.
I'm sure I can remove the paint on the outside with a wire brush attachment on my drill. I'm concerned with the inside.... it's painted on the inside too and if that comes off later after it's installed, isn't that just going to clog the filter and cause more problems?
 

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I don't know good point. It would likely be caught in media, if even the paint will come off, we aren't sure it will. Now, we see oil filters that are inside transmissions with paint on them, even for mopar. This is newer info for us, at that time we hadnt seen this. We just recomended that for an abundance of caution. Even if paint filled media it would go to bypass, so it likely wouldnt be fatal. Did @U&A cut open trans filter, he was the first to change his trans filter with our new procedures. If so Kyle, was there any paint in media?

I guess I should be the one to risk it first, when I do my trans flush I will leave paint on the rp filter, live on the edge. My guess, there is nothing in transmission oil that will eat my paint.
 
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