Doesn't matter,the interior wiring/headlight wiring ,fuse box etc.,won't handle 320 amps,you must think the wiring ends at the engine or something,lol.Stick with the factory 220 fuse at most.Go back and reread my post,i just updated it.
You must be a little bit dense,how do you think i picked up on the aftermarket alternators all reconmending upgrading the wiring,lol. You sir,make me shake my head,as you seem to be a bit stubborn to accept any advice from the guys who've done the wiring upgrade,several years ago,no less,lol.Tough to accept somebody else might know as much or more then you,lol
I'm over here laughing at you,but you can think whatever you want,if it makes you sleep better,
.Why are you so hung up on not trying out the wiring upgrade,before spending a bunch of money on an aftermarket alternator. That to utilize properly,you need to upgrade the wiring anyways.You seem to have a burr under your saddle on taking advice from the guys that have already did the wiring upgrade.
m.youtube.com
Might be the best idea you've ever had,
. You appear a bit hard headed when it comes to taking advice,
While I'm trying to stay out of the romper room bickering, I just couldn't resist making some comments. Regardless of what size alternator you install it does NOT require you to upgrade all of the wiring on the truck. Just because the alternator is capable of producing 320 amps doesn't mean it's sending 320 amps through the entire electrical harness of the truck. The amperage flowing through the wiring will only be how much that circuit requires. If the circuit only needs 2 amps than it will only pull 2 amps regardless of the alternator size and rating. The constant is the voltage, which will always be in the 12-14 volt range and the amperage will vary based on how much is needed by that circuit. You increase the wire size in each circuit based on the power demands, and that's why items like the starter and battery leads are big cables.
