Valvebody Removal/Install

[1SilverBullet2]

This is a DYI for removal of the valvebody in a 46re for a shift kit install. I didnt have my phone on my at all times and doing the work by myself I only have two hands haha. I got some pics when I could though.
Tools needed: 1/2" socket (deep well or a shallow and extension), ratchet or impact, 7/16" socket, Torx 25 socket, pry bar, 90* degree o-ring pick, flat head screw driver, 1/2" wrench, 7/16" and 3/8" wrench, lots of shop rags lol, drain pan, bolts tray if you want, and brake cleaner.
WARNING- Id pressure wash off your trans before doing this so you have a clean area to work in.
First step: is either jack up your pickup and put it on stand or have a lifted pickup to do that for you. Chalk the wheels, engage the parking brake, and put the trans into neutral.

Second step: is using the 1/2" socket begin removing bolts in one corner of the pan, Ive always opted for the left hand corner towards the back. Remove the bolts from there and have your drain pan ready. Work your way around the pan and watch for fluid to begin pouring from that corner. I usually take out 4 to 6 bolts and if the pan hasn't begun to drop I take my screw driver and lightly pry it down to break the gasket seal. After the seal is broken leave atleast 3 bolts in the pan oppposite the corner you began. Once the pan is done draining, support the pan and remove the remaining bolts. Drain the rest of the oil into the pan. The vavlebody is be dripping the whole time unless you opt to put the pan back up for awhile and let everything drain down more. Also remove the trans filter using the torx 25 socket, there'll be two bolts holding that up and a lot of fluid will pour out of that too.

Third step: removing the manual levers on the lever shaft. Theyre located on the left side on top of the pan. I used wrenches since I couldnt get a socket onto them, but the bolts lever is a 1/2" and the upper is 3/8 or 7/16". Remove the bolts and pull the levers off. The bottom lever may be stuck a little so use the pry bar and just rock the lever back and forth until the lever pops off.


Fourth step: remove the two sensor connectors from the left side right by the manual levers you just removed.

Fifth step: Remove the bolts holding up the valvebody. There's 10 bolts total holding it up. Leave one bolt in but just a few threads in so there's something supporting the body.


Sixth step: Wiggle the valvebody and it will be drop down. There's a parking lever connected to a sprag in the trans and connected to a rooster lever on top of the valvebody. There's an e clip holding the lever to the valvebody. I used a 90* degree o-ring pick to pull the e clip off, it was easier than a screw driver. Hold up the valvebody too while doing this so it doesn't fall. After that e clip is removed the valvebody usually will just drop down. Watch out for the accumulator piston and springs. They'll fall out so catch them.


That's removing the valvebody in a nut shell. I'll get the install later when I isntall the valvbody again.

 

[dapepper9]

Again sorry i forgot about those 4 governor bolts! Would have made it much less of an ideal for you.

 

[dapepper9]

Also edited a couple of my pics to show some stuff.

Location of 10 bolts, as viewed from above. Shouldn't be hard to find em. T25.


Location of E-clip

 

[1SilverBullet2]

Yeah sorry I never got pics posted up yet, never had time after writing this up. I'll post them this afternoon. No worries man about those 4 extra bolts, I'd do the same thing.

 

[1SilverBullet2]

Sorry to all that I've taken so long in finishing this install of my shift kit in the valvebody...here's the last info on installation, my apologies for some lack info from forgetting. On the front band there's an updated spring that came with my kit and that requires you to remove the front band finger that hold the spring up. I used a c clamp to pressurize the spring. Then theres a "t" holding the band, you have to compress the band and remove the t, that will let you swing the finger away so the spring can drop out. If I remember right there's a c clip that holds the spring plunger up, its a PITA to put back in. Installation of this just reverse of removal.

 

[1SilverBullet2]

After you install the new spring you can install your valve body. Installation again is reverse of removal. My VB took a little wiggle to pop in. After you get it in the right spot install a bolt or two a few threads and then pull the VB down so you can install the parking lever to the sprag again. Here's the best part of it all, hooking the parking lever up lol. This part I was sorta rushing to finish because of my time schedule so I never took pictures sorry. Best advice I can tell you is to have patience hooking it up so you don't lose the e clips that goes on the end of the lever. I pulled the parking lever 3/4 of the way foward so I could hook it in the sprag. (thinner fingers help here) After you get the lever in, I gently laid the e clip in the groove and used a long flathead screwdriver to push the e clip down. Be careful so you don't pop the e clip off somewhere or loose it. After you get this step done you can now put the VB all the way back up and finger tighten the bolts down and install the remaining bolts. I then installed all the sensors and parking lever on the side of the trans, reverse order of removal. A little grease on the o rings of the sensors will help them pop in.

Torque the VB mounting bolts to 100 inch lbs or 8 ft lbs, using a criss cross pattern to tighten. After you torque the VB bolts you can put up the trans filter, torque the filter bolts to 35 inch lbs. Clean the pan mounting surface from oil, grease, and debris. Put up your gasket of choice with pan, again using a criss cross pattern tighten the bolts, and torque the pan bolts to 13 ft lbs.

Now onto adding fluid. This is gonna be different for everybody since it'll vary on how much fluid the torque converter drained fluid. I bought 9 qts of ATF+4 to be safe, that's my action. I filled up 6 qts, checked fluid level, and started my truck in park. There might be some noises as passages and everything fills back up. As the truck runs keep checking the level. I added another 1.5 qt to the already 6 qts. I then proceeded to shift the truck through every gear, stopping at each and waiting for 30 seconds. After you've done that, take your truck for a drive until you reached operating temp for everything. I drove for about 30 miles, parked on a level spot, put my truck in neutral and checked the level. After everything was said and done I've put almost 8.5 qts into my trans. I don't have any leaks to date and I can feel the truck shift a bit firmer, biggest difference to me was having the O/D spring replaced(original was broken). Going into O/D is instant now. Enjoy the new shift kit!

****If you have any second thoughts, needing torque specs, or steps in any process check the FSM (Factory Service Manual). I cannot take responsibility for any problems that may arise from your project.